January, 1912, pages 16-17
Automobile-Cap in Star-Stitch
Work loosely. Chain 4, join.
1. Twelve doubles in ring, join.
2. Make 8 star-stitches in the round.
3. Make 16 star-stitches, widening in every stitch of preceding round.
4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening in every stitch. This completes the flat crown of the cap
Make 7 rounds of star-stitch without widening, or until the cap is of the desired size.
13. Turn (to form the turnover or roll, which must show the right side of work when turned up around the crown) and work star-stitch, without increasing, all around.
14. Make a treble in eye of 1st star, chain 2, a treble in eye of next star, then a star-stitch, drawing a loop through top of treble, 2 loops through the center, 1 in bottom of treble, 1 under horizontal loop of next star in last row, and 1 through eye of same star. Work off as usual, and repeat. When putting in the ribbon, run it over the single treble and under the treble and star-stitch combined.
15, 16. Star-stitch, without widening there should be the same number of stars as in 13th round, 3 over each treble and combined treble and star-stitch.
Line the cap by cutting a strip of fine cotton or silk long enough to extend smoothly around the lower edge of the cap (at 12th round), and widen enough to reach the top of cap. Join the ends in a neat seam, sew to the lower edge of cap, a little inside the 12th round, or the round just before the turnover commences, fold in the upper edge, gather and draw up tightly, and turn inside of cap.
Any color of wool may be used – brown, dark green, navy-blue, chinchilla, maroon, crimson, gray, or other that may be preferred, the ribbon matching or harmonizing with it. Germantown zephyr may take the place of the knitting-yarn, and is very soft and pretty.
The six-loop star-stitch is used in making this cap: chain 3, miss 1st stitch of chain, draw a loop through each of next 2 stitches and 3 stitches of foundation, making 1st 2 loops a trifle shorter than the others; take up the wool and draw through all 6 stitches at once, then take up and draw through the stitch on hook tightly, to close the star. For the 2d and following stars, draw a loop through eye of star last made (the tiny hole formed by the 2 chain or closing stitch), next through back part of last loop of previous star (these being the shorter loops), next in same stitch with last loop of 1st star, and 1 loop in each of 2 following stitches; work off as before and repeat.
For 2d and following rows, chain 3, draw up 2 loops as before, next loop in back of 1st or top loop in star below, next through eye of same star and next under loop of next star, beyond the eye; work off as before. Next star, take up 2d and 3d loops as directed for stars in last row, the 4th, 5th and 6th loops as directed for star last made; work off.
To widen, making 2 stars over 1 of previous row, one can omit the last 2 or advance loops, having the star to consist of 4 loops only, or may draw the remaining 2 loops up at the back of the work, if it is desired to have the 6 loops in each star. For a less rapid widening, advance only 1 stitch, making the star of 5 loops.
Take care to do the work loosely, pulling the loops out well, for on this depend in great measure the softness and fluffiness of the finished work – constituting the charm of worsted articles.
Aviation- or Automobile-Cap
Chain 4, join.
1. Chain 3, 12 trebles in ring, join.
2. Make 2 doubles in each stitch of previous round.
Continue to work in double crochet, taking up both veins of the stitch to avoid a rib, and working very loosely, widening also by putting 2 stitches in the same place as required to keep the work perfectly flat, until the top of the cap is of required size, say 11 or 12 inches across; 14 rows, worked loosely as they should be, will be about right. Then work plain, or without widening, until the desired depth is attained – 12 or 14 more rows, and fasten off.
The border or roll is of ruche-stitch, knitted as follows:
1. Insert the needle in 1st stitch as though to knit it, wind the wool around needle and finger 4 times, and pull all 4 loops through the stitch; repeat across the row, and repeat the 2 rows until you have a strip long enough to extend easily around the cap, join the ends, sew in place and line the cap neatly, sewing the lining at the lower edge of the ruche and gathering closely at the top.
The border may be of a different color than the cap, if preferred, choosing any two colors that are becoming to the wearer and contrast or match prettily. For example, two shades of one color may be sued, as light and dark blue or brown; or the cap may be of gray with a crimson or maroon border, or the latter may be of blue, all depending upon the taste or complexion of the one who is to wear this stylish and useful bit of head-gear.
A heavier wool may be chosen; and larger needles used for knitting, with loops wound around two fingers if desired deeper. There are many ways of varying such articles, and the experienced worker is rarely at a loss to know what will give the prettiest effect. As has been suggested, however, the work must be done loosely. If the wool is wound it should be done very easily, not stretching it in the least. It is a good plan to first wind from little finger to thumb of left hand, crossing the pals as the wool is carried around thumb, then finger; after as many winds as can be held comfortably, slip off and wind the wool loosely around the soft “wad” thus formed. By exercising care the work may be done without winding, the wool being drawn from the skein.
Baby’s Hood with Ruche
Use Saxony yarn, with bone hook of suitable size. It should carry the thread easily without catching in it. The model is of blue and white, and one skein of each will be sufficient, with two and one-half yards of ribbon for ties and bows.
Chain 4, join.
1. Fill the ring with 12 doubles.
2. Make 7 star-stitches around the circle.
3, 4. Make 14 star-stitches, widening in every stitch of last round.
5, 6, 7, 8. Work around plain, or without widening, in star-stitch. Should this not make the hood sufficiently long in the back, add another row.
9. Work around to within 5 or 6 stars of beginning of round, leaving these for back of neck; break and fasten the wool, and join in again at beginning of row.
10. Chain 3, take up 1st 2 loops from the chain as previously directed, then continue with star-stitch across front. Care must be taken to have the same number of stars in each row, and to keep the edge straight. In order to do this, draw the last loop of last star of the row through last stitch of end star in preceding row.
Continue to work across front as directed until a sufficient width is attained, say for 6 rows. As will be noted, the hood may be readily enlarged to fit the head of any child; it is only necessary to add extra rows of stars to the crown, and make the front piece proportionally wider.
For the border, cast on 9 stitches, using steel needles or proper size for the yarn, knit across plain; turn, insert needle as if to knit a stitch, wind yarn 4 times around needle and one finger, draw the loops through, and repeat. Continue across in the same way, knit back plain and repeat to the desired length, making a strip long enough to extend across front of hood. Make another strip for the back, to meet the front piece at each side, and join neatly, catching to the hood all around.
Make a lining of silk, flannel or cotton, finishing and sewing in place so that it can be easily removed when it becomes soiled, make a pretty bow of the ribbon for back and top of hood and put on the ties.
The directions given, using Germantown or other heavier yarn, will result in a much larger hood. Work loosely – this cannot be too often emphasized, since there should be no suspicion of hardness about an article fashioned of wool; it must be light and soft and fluffy, or lose its greatest charm.
Worsted Boots in Rib-Stitch
Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 13 stitches, turn.
1. A double in each of 6 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each of 6, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each stitch (taking back vein to form a rib), widening in the center by making 2 stitches in the same place.
Continue like 2d row until you have made 10 ribs or ridges, or according to the size of shoe wanted; the directions given may be used to fit any size of sole.
Turning at end of last row, chain 1, work to center of instep, then chain 13, turn, miss 1st stitch and work down the chain and across the side of instep; turn, chain 1, work to top of ankle and back to edge of instep. Continue in this way until you have made 13 or 14 ribs, then crochet together.
Around top of ankle make a treble in every stitch, commencing with 3 chain and joining the row. Draw these stitches up well, to admit the ribbon, which is passed over 2 trebles and under 2 then tied in a pretty bow in front.
2. A double in next stitch, miss 2, shell of 5 trebles in next, miss 2; repeat round, making 6 shells of white.
3. Fasten in the blue (or darker color), chain 3, fasten in top of 1st shell, *shell between shells, fasten in next shell; repeat from * around, making 6 trebles in each shell.
4. Like 3d row, using white wool.
Sew to the sole of the slipper on the wrong side, turn right side, and finish with a bow of ribbon on instep.
Where the widening consists of 2 stitches, put the widening doubles in the 2d stitch, each row. Another method of making the vamp, which gives the box-toe effect, is to start with a chain of 11 stitches (or according to size of slipper), turn, miss 1st stitch, 9 doubles in9 stitches, 1 in each, 3 in next, or last stitch, 9 doubles on other side of chain, in same stitches with those previously made, turn; chain 1, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, 2 in next, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, always picking up back par to stitch to form the rib, and continue for 5 rows; then work back every other row plain, or without widening, to prevent too rapid increase. When the vamp is completed, chain for the ankle and continue as directed.
Bootees in Seashell-Stitch
Use two colors of Saxony, blue and white, or pink and white’ the model is of the latter. Two skeins will make several pairs. With a hook of suitable to size, chain 24, join.
1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch of chain; 3 chain stands for 1st treble; join top of 3 chain.
2. A double in next stitch, miss 1, 4 trebles in next, miss 1; repeat around making 6 shells of 4 trebles each, fastened with 1 double between shells; join last shell in 1st double of the round.
3. Chain 3 and fasten in top of 1st shell (or slip-stitch to top of shell, as preferred), *make a shell of 5 trebles in the double between shells, fasten in top of following shell; repeat from * around, joining last shell where round started.
4. Same as 3d row.
5. Same as 3d row, using color.
6, 7. Same as 4th and 5th rows, save that the 7th row (of color) has 6 trebles in each shell instead of 5.
This completes the leg. Now, commencing on the other side of foundation-chain from where the 1st row of trebles is worked, make a double 9white) in each stitch. For the instep, join in color and work 8 doubles, 1 in each stitch; turn, and make 3 more rows of color, or 2 ridges; make 2 rows of white, 2 of color, and one of white, narrowing at end of this row by putting hook through 2 stitches instead of one. Make 2 more rows in same way, narrowing at beginning and end of last row, which completes the instep. Break the wool and draw through fastening securely. Fasten in at the heel, or point on the leg exactly opposite the center of instep, and using white yarn, make double in double (taking both veins of the stitch) to beginning of instep; work down the side, across toe, along the opposite side and back to the heel; join. Work 3 more rows in the same way, then in next and 3 following rows, narrow once on each side of the foot. Crochet the bottom of sole together, run ribbon in and out the row of trebles at the ankle, and you have completed a pretty and comfortable little foot-covering for the wee one of your – or another’s – household.
Aero- or Auto-Toque
By Mrs. B. F. Sargent
These comfortable, serviceable caps or toques are everywhere seen this season, no less – even more – than last. It is the simplest thing in the world to make one of them, a half day at most sufficing for the work. One of the plainest. And all the more attractive because of its simplicity, is made as follows:
Using eiderdown wool and a large bone hook, make a chain of 4 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, 15 trebles in ring, join.
2. Chain 3, 2 trebles in each treble of last row, join.
3. Chain 3, a treble in same place, *treble in next stitch, 2 in next; repeat from * around, join.
4. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch of last row.
Make 3 more rows without widening for the depth of cap – which, by the way, may be made of any desired size, either as to circumference (by widening to a circle of 55 to 60 stitches, in which case one should commence with a proportionally larger number of trebles in the center ring), or by adding an extra row or more to the depth. As made, the trebles are about one and one-fourth inches long, and the work, while elastic, is very close and warm.
Having completed the body of the cap, turn it and work a row of trebles, taking into the back loop of stitch of previous row; chain 3 at beginning and join to top of 3 chain.
Again a row of trebles on the last, but taking as before into both loops of the stitch.
Around the edge of cap work a row of singles, and fasten off. Finish with a quill, a pompon of ribbon or velvet, or in any way preferred, or wear the cap plain.
Twisted puff-stitch is another simple and very attractive stitch for such a cap. Using the same wool and hook, chain 4, join.
1. Chain 1, put hook at back of wool and under it toward you, so that the wool passes from you over the needle, hook through ring ,draw up a loop, making 3 on needle, take up wool and draw through all at once, chain 1, and repeat until you have 12 puffs in the ring; join last to 1st.
2. Chain 1, *hook toward you under the wool, as before, draw up a loop through the next space, repeat from *once, making 5 loops on the needle, hook under wool from you, in usual way, draw through all loops at once, chain 1, and repeat, making a puff in 2d and 3d spaces, 2 in 4th to widen, 1 in 5th, 6th and 7th, 2 in 8th, 1 in 9th, 10th and 11th, and 2 in 12th, making 14 puffs in all.
3. Same as 2d row, but making 18 puffs by increasing in 5th, 10th and 15th spaces.
4. Working in same way, increase in 4th, 8th, 12th and 16th spaces.
5. Always making the puffs as directed, increase in the 10th and 20th spaces.
6, 8, 10. Increase in 8th, 16th, and 24th spaces.
7, 9. Increase in 14th and 28th spaces
11, 12, 13. Plain – that is, a puff in each space, without increasing.
This completes the body of the cap. For the roll or turnover – which may be of another color, if preferred – work 5 rows plain, turning so that the puffs are made on the right side.
Although usually called aviation- or automobile-toques, these caps are by no means confined to owners or passengers of flying-machines and horseless-carriages, but are worn on the golf-links, skating, coasting, sleighing, and on every occasion when comfort is considered. Not least of their merits, too, is the fact that they are universally becoming.