Welcome to my blog about Home Arts Needlecraft Magazine! I "discovered" this publication about 2 years ago and fell in love with it to the extent that I had to start collecting issues as I ran across them. The magazine began publication with its September, 1909 premier issue, and continued through March, 1941. It has been interesting to follow the changes through the 30 plus years the magazine was published. It is a great source for needlework, fashion, recipes and short stories. Through my journey of sharing my issues online, I hope to discover a pattern of what was popular in different forms of needlecraft over the 3 decades. I hope you enjoy my blog as much as I am (so far!) enjoying posting articles and projects from the issues. Thanks for visiting!

Monday, December 31, 2012

Two Doilies in Teneriffe Lace

1912, November, page 19

Doily with Teneriffe Border
By Mary E. Link 
It is a very easy matter to finish a doily or centerpiece with a border of Teneriffe lace, other than the wheels so commonly used.  The method herewith described is original with the writer, and the result is most satisfactory.
Prepare the device for making the lace as for a small wheel – taking, for example, the ordinary cardboard foundation.  This should correspond in size to the circumference of the doily you wish to make, with a little to spare.  Make the row of dots or perforations around the outer edge, and the second row just within, and “string” these with the bars of thread for holding the foundation- or cross-threads.  There must be exactly the same number of these bars as of pair-threads for weaving on, and this depends on the pattern, the size of doily, etc.  Complete, the model is nine and one-half inches in diameter and has a three-inch linen center.  These proportions may be varied as desired, the border shown being very pretty for a large centerpiece, embroidered or plain; indeed, a luncheon-set may be made with border to match for all the sizes, using the same pattern of different widths.
Having prepared the pasteboard foundation of proper size, and put in the thread-bars, make the linen center, turning a narrow hem and buttonholing the edge closely all around.  The number of buttonhole-stitches should be the same as that of the thread-bars.  Fasten the circle of linen in the exact center of the pasteboard; and, starting with the last buttonhole-stitch, carry the thread out, under a thread-bar, back to center, under the next buttonhole-stitch, out to edge and under next thread-bar, and so continue until all have been worked under, bringing the last thread back to center, where it is securely fastened.
Pass out about one fourth inch and knot four threads (two pairs) together all around, allowing about one eighth inch of thread between knots, or enough to keep the circle flat and smooth.  Now weave back and forth over eight threads ten times, or about three-eighths inch, pass back to center (or to the knotting-thread), weave over next eight threads in same way, pass back and weave next eight threads.  After the third section is woven do not return to the center, but drop the four outer threads (the last four of last section), weave over remaining four and half the threads of middle section as before, then weave over remaining four threads of middle section and half of next section, leaving the four outer threads.  Leave four threads of last section worked; and over the remaining four, and four of the next section, weave a single section above the last two, dropping the outer four threads each side.  This completes the pyramid.  Pass back to the knotting-thread and along it to the next eight threads and repeat.  In all there are thirteen of the pyramids.  After completing the last, do not return to center, but pass out about one fourth inch, knotting the third, fourth, fifth and sixth threads of the single section together; knot next four threads together, and repeat around.  Weave around twice, then proceed with the outer part of the pattern as follows: Weave back and forth over eight threads seven times, or about one fourth inch, drop four threads at the right take on next four, and again weave as directed.  Repeat until you have woven four blocks diagonally, then drop the last four threads of fourth block, and weave a block on the remaining four and the four dropped from preceding block, again drop four threads and wave another block.  This completes a group or section of blocks.  Continue working in this way, weaving the blocks over eight threads, dropping four and taking on four, until the circle is finished, then knot each pair of threads, all around, pass out one fourth inch, knot two threads, taking a thread from each of two previous knots in order to divide the pairs, again pass out and knot as before.  Then press the doily, placing a thin cloth over it, to stretch the threads and prevent them drawing up, and release the work by clipping the thread-bars at the back.
As will be noted, the pattern may be varied in accordance with the taste and skill of the worker, and there is scarcely a limit to the pretty effects that are possible. 

Doily or Cushion-Cover in Teneriffe Lace
By Grace Lett
Two sizes of wheels are used in making this dainty square, that in each corner being three inches in diameter, while the border wheels are one and one-fourth inches.
The various methods of making these wheels, or the foundations for making them on, have been clearly described.  Probably the homemade device in most common use is the circle on pasteboard, with two rows of  dots at the outer edge, back and forth through which are sewed the little bars of thread for taking the foundation-threads of the wheel under.  The circle should be about one fourth inch larger than the finished wheel.  Space it off with dots at even distances, and one fourth inside this make another circle containing the same number of dots, a trifle nearer together.  After perforating the dots with a tiny bradawl or similar implement, take a length of strong thread, bring your needle up through a perforation in the outer circle, put it down through the corresponding perforation in the inner circle, and continue until you have thus used all.  This is the foundation, which is the same for small or large wheels, differing only in the number of perforations.
Using the thread of which the wheel is to be made, bring your needle up through the center of the pasteboard, leaving a short length hanging, pass to the edge of circle, under a bar, across center of pasteboard to the bar exactly opposite, under that, back across the pasteboard, crossing the first thread, under the bar next to first, and so on until you have worked under every bar.  Take care that the working-threads are not twisted,  After working under last bar, carry the needle to center, pass the needle under all the threads and make a tight buttonhole-knot, then another knot at right angles to this, to hold them smoothly and securely, and weave around two or three times, alternating the threads.  Then proceed with the pattern.
The large wheel has 64 pair-threads – or the same number of perforations in the pasteboard foundation.  After reaching the last row of weaving at the center, weave over 16 threads, dividing 1st and 8th pairs, for 3/8 of an inch, or according to the size of your wheel; drop a thread each side, weave across two or three times, again drop a thread each side, and repeat until you have decreased to 2 threads; pass back to center, weave the next point in like manner, and repeat until all are completed.  After the last do not return to center but pass out about 3/8 of an inch and knot each thread around, forming a tiny scallop over each point; again pass out about 3/8 of an inch and knot each pair of threads straight around.  Lay a cloth over the wheel and press with a moderately hot iron, snip the thread bars which hold the work to the foundation, remove the wheel, thread the end left hanging and fasten neatly at center on wrong side.  The small or border wheels have each 32 pairs of threads.  After knotting and weaving around center, pass out 5-16 of an inch, knot each pair around, pass out 3-16 of an inch, knot each pair again, taking a thread from each previous knotting to divide them.  Then press and release the wheel as directed.
Arrange the border as shown, a large wheel in each corner of the net with small wheels surrounding, and whip them together at the edge, neatly, joining them also to the net or lawn used for the center.  The superfluous fabric is then cut away, and a narrow felling made to finish the raw edge.
The square may be made as large as desired, adding to the number of small wheels between corners, and is beautiful on a polished table.  A bureau-set, consisting of two square mats, one oblong piece for comb-and-brush tray, and a cushion-cover, is very attractive.  The same trimming may be used for a square collar, a bertha, and for many other articles which will readily occur to one.



Friday, December 28, 2012

For the Little Folks

1912, November, page 18

Child’s Knitted Sock, Rose-Leaf Design
By Mrs. Lee Hibler
Use knitting-silk and steel needles No. 19.  Cast 36 stitches on each of two needles, and 38 stitches on the other.
1.  Knit plain
2. Knit 6, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2; repeat.
3.  Knit 4, narrow, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2; repeat.
4.  Knit 3, narrow, purl 2, (knit 1, over) twice, knit 1, purl 2; repeat.
5.  Knit 2, narrow, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2; repeat.
6.  Knit 1, narrow, purl 2, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2.
7.  Over, narrow, over, purl 2, knit 5, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
8.  Knit 3, purl 2, knit 4, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
9.  Knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, purl 2, knit 3, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
10.  Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
11.  Knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, narrow, purl 2, repeat.
12.  Knit 5, narrow, purl 2, over, narrow, over, purl 2; repeat.
Repeat from 3d row.
The little sock is knitted in exactly the same manner as a plain one, shaping the leg by narrowing at the back and preserving the regular pattern aside from that.  Carry the roseleaf-pattern down the instep, knitting the heel and foot plain, and narrowing off the toe as usual.  Directions have been given for this portion of the work so many times that it does not seem necessary to repeat them.
The roseleaf-design is very pretty for wristlets, and may be used to advantage in many ways.  If desired the socks may be knitted of Saxony; in silk, however, they are very dainty and warm.

Child’s Jacket in Crochet
By Mrs. A. Reeder
This is one of the prettiest little garments imaginable, and very easily made.  It requires two skeins of white and two skeins of colored – blue or pink – Shetland floss, a crochet-hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying it, and small enough to make smooth, even work, with two yards of inch-wide ribbon, matching the floss in color.
Commence with colored wool, making a chain of 85 stitches.
1.  Miss 3, a treble in each stitch of chain, turn.
2.  Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles taking up the back part of stitch to form a rib, widen in next stitch my making 2 trebles in same place, 49 trebles in 49 trebles, widen in next stitch as before, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, turn.
3.  Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between the widening trebles of last row, work across back with treble in treble, shell between 2 widening trebles, treble in treble across front, turn.
4.  Same as 3d row to shoulder, 2 trebles between 1st 2 trebles of shell, shell under 2 chain, 2 trebles between next 2 trebles of shell, work across back, make shoulder like the first, work across front, turn.
5.  Same as 3d row to shoulder, 4 trebles between 1st 2 trebles, shell between 1st and 2d trebles of shell, shell between 3d and 4th trebles of same shell, 4 trebles between 2 trebles, work across back, make opposite shoulder as directed, work across front turn.
6.  Same as 3d; at shoulder make shell between 1st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4th, (shell in shell) twice, shell between 1st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4th, work across back, across shoulder as described, and across front, turn.
7.  Same as 3d row across front, (chain 1, shell in shell) 6 times, chain 1, continue with treble in treble across back, work across shoulder as directed, and make treble in treble across front; turn.
8, 9.  Same as 7th row.
This completes the yoke.  The shells from a very pretty little puff or epaulette on top of sleeve.
10.  Fasten in the white wool, chain 3, make 16 trebles across front, chain 20, 49 trebles across back, chain 20, 16 trebles across front, turn.  (Note: original directions have “49 doubles across back, chain 20, 16 doubles across front”)
11.  Chain 3, shell between 2d and 3d trebles, same between 4th and 5th, 6th and 7th, and so on until you have made 7 shells, putting the last between 14th and 15th trebles, (miss 2 stitches of chain, shell in next) 6 times, miss 2, shell between 2d and 3d trebles of back, between 4th and 5th, and so on making 24 shells across back, 6 across chain and 7 across front, turn.
12.  Chain 3, make shell in each shell of last row, turn.
13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Same as 12th row.  If the jacket is wanted longer, add extra rows of shells.
20.  Fasten color at end of foundation chain at neck, chain 2 for 1st treble, a treble in same place, chain 2, a treble in same place (all at end of 1st row of neck), miss 1 row, shell at end of next, continue working down front, making 5 shells across yoke, shell under each 3 chain to corner, make 2 shells in corner, shell to turn, shell in shell across bottom of jacket, 2 at corner, work up front as directed, ending with a shell at end of 1st row, turn.
21.  Chain 3, shell in shell down front, at corners make also a shell between shells, and continue around.
22.  Same as 21st row.  Work across the neck with a shell between each of the 3 shells of border, then a shell between each 3d and 4th treble following, with 3 across border at end of row.
For the sleeve:  Fasten in the white wool, make shell in shell across shoulder and 6 shells along the chain under arm, 12 in all.  Make shell in shell until the sleeve is 9 rows in length; then join in color and make 3 rows of shells, which will give 12 rows altogether.
Run ribbon in and out the 1st row of colored shells at the writs, and tie in a pretty bow.  Thread the ties for the neck in the 1st row of trebles, over 2 and under 2, and draw up.
Although the stitch in which this warm and comfortable little garment is made is not new, the arrangement is both novel and simple.  No one can fail to be pleased with it.

Child’s Crocheted Shoes
By Mathilde Larkin
Materials required are one and one-half skeins of Germantown, a medium-sized bone hook, a few yards of crochet-silk, matching the yarn in color, a yard of inch-wide ribbon, same shade, eight half-inch brass rings, and a pair of slipper-soles, size 8  Shoes made by directions given should fit a child of three or four years, but may be readily enlarged; they are just the thing for a little invalid, or for a child who is convalescing from illness.
Make a chain of 10 stitches, turn.
1.  Miss 1 and make a double in each of 4 stitches, 3 in next, 1 in each of 4, turn.
2.  Chain 1, miss 1st stitch, and make a double in each double, taking up the back loop, which forms a rib.
Continue in this way, widening every other row by making 3 doubles in the middle stitch of previous row, until you have completed eight ribs or sixteen rows.  This piece is for the instep, or vamp.
For the strip that extends around the heel chain 1, miss 1st stitch, make 8 doubles in 8 doubles, turn, and continue working back and forth until you have made fifteen ribs, then crochet to the opposite side of vamp from which you started.
Turn wrong side out and set neatly to the sole.  Join the wool, if you have broken it off, where the instep meets the side, chain 4, * a treble in next rib, chain 1, repeat from * around and join to 3d of 4 chain, working across the top of instep by putting a treble in every other stitch.  This row forms spaces in which to run a cord, finished with balls or tassels.
After joining, chain 1, 1 double in each stitch around to the opposite side, not across the front; turn, chain 1, miss 1st stitch, make a double in each double, working in back loop of stitch.  Continue in this way until you have five ribs, or have made the leg as deep as wanted.
For the upper edge, chain 3, miss 2, fasten in next stitch; repeat around the tope, turn, and under each loop of chain make 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double.  Fasten off the wool neatly.
Cover the rings with the crochet-silk in double stitch, and sew two to each side of the opening in front; take one half the ribbon, put the ends through the two lower rings, cross and bring the ends out through the upper rings and tie in a pretty bow.
The cord may be either twisted, or crocheted, as preferred.  Make the balls by winding the wool thirty times around a piece of cardboard an inch in width, or around two fingers; tie tightly in the middle, clip the ends, and trim them evenly, rolling the ball between your palms to make it round and fluffy.  Fasten to the end of cord with needle and thread, or – and this method makes it more secure – tie the end of cord in with the ball at the center.




Thursday, December 27, 2012

The Season’s Cleverest Modes

1912, November, page 17

Clever Fall Costume
Features of the new fall costumes prominently shown in the clever costume given in design No. 5965 include the vest and charming front plaits on the skirt.
These are details that at once mark the garment as distinctly new, and smart, and up to the minute in style.  The dress shows the fashionable front closing, and may be made with regular or Empire waistline.
The Empire effect continues very popular, as it is a style becoming to most women.  However, there are some to whom this type does not appeal, and such may use the regular waistline, without in any way impairing the good lines and beauty of the frock
This dress may be worn at the present time without a coat, and later in the winter will give good service under the long cloth or fur wrap.  It may be fashioned of serge, whipcord, cheviot, diagonals, checks and plaids.  The contrasting goods is of satin or moire, and sometimes soft silk velvet is used with delightful result.
The chemisette, which is removable, is made of allover.  The stylish skirt is a six-gored model.  The dress, while of fine appearance, and full of fashion-features, is not in the least difficult to construct.  Instead, its construction is well within the range of the home dressmaker’s skill
The pattern, No. 5965, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 8 ½ yards of 27-inch material, 6 yards of 36-inch goods, or 5 yards of 44-inch fabric, with ½ yard of 24-inch satin or other contrasting goods, and 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Handsome Coat
The coats for the coming winter promise to be more elaborate than ever before.  Much lace and other rich trimming is to be used, and there is a great vogue of fur. The handsome coat shown in model No 5961 is fashioned of navy-blue velvet, with the large fancy collar of heavy lace over navy-blue satin, and the edging of white fur.
The wide cuffs correspond, and the sole ornamentation aside from the above-mentioned embellishment, is a jet-and-braid ornament with which the garment is fastened.
This coat is very simple to make.  The lines are excellent, and the gracefulness and charming character of it cannot fail to appeal to the woman of discernment and good taste in costuming.
If a velvet coat may be thought too elaborate, the model may be delightfully carried out in satin, silk, or any of the new and attractive cloths which are to be had for this purpose.  The collar and cuffs may be of any desired contrasting material, and if fur is not desired, rich silk or beaded braiding is a splendid substitution.
The pattern, No. 5961, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 8 ¾ yards of 27-inch material, or 7 ½ yards of 36-inch material, with 1 1/8 yards of 22-inch allover, and 3 ½ yards of fur.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Stylish Types of New Gowns

1912, November, Page 16
Ladies’ Dress
The delightful frock shown in model No. 5975 is one of the newest styles of the fall and winter season.
This garment may be developed for dressy wear, or for general service, depending upon the manner of its treatment.  It is made in Empire style, but the regulation waistline may be used if preferred.
The pattern provides for plain or full sleeves, and the four-gored skirt may be finished in short sweep, or round length.The round neck is collarless, and the insert of contrasting material at the front of the garment from neck to skirt-hem in a novel and quite pretty idea.
The frock presented was charmingly developed in fawn-colored cashmere, with white front-piece.  The belt is of coffee-brown satin, and narrow velvet ribbon of the same shade trims the garment.  Brown bone buttons are used to fasten the frock at the front.  The sleeves have band cuffs trimmed with velvet ribbon, and finished with a frill of ecru edging.
This garment may be carried out in blue serge, plaid or checked material, or changeable taffeta.  Indeed, the model offers a wide choice in the selection of a suitable material for development.
The pattern, No. 5975, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  Size 36 will require 8 yards of 27-inch material, 5 7/8 yards of 36-inch fabric, or 5 ¼ yards of goods 44 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Pretty Striped Frock
Dresses of striped material are quite the fad this season, and many clever garments are noted developed in striped serge, mohair, voile and silk.
Most of these striped dresses are made very simply, as any attempt at trimming such a garment at once detracts from its elegance.  Often the only embellishment is the collar and cuffs of contrasting material, and sometimes an adornment of fancy buttons.
This idea is delightfully illustrated in design No, 5967.
Here we have a pretty frock developed in brown-and-white silk, with the attractive new-style collar, and the chic turned-back cuffs of white silk, though brown may be used for this purpose if desired.
The dress is made in the pretty Empire fashion, and has the closing at the left side of the front.  Brown buttons are used to trim the frock, the fastening being accomplished with hooks and eyes underneath.
The new-style skirt is seen, and the entire appearance of the garment is fashionable, and in the very best taste.
Blue-and-white silk, black-and-white serge or voile, and any of the new striped serges and other woolen materials may be used.
The pattern, No, 5967, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the frock in the medium size will require 6 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, with ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  Width of lower edge is 2 ½ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Monday, December 24, 2012

In White Embroidery

1912, November, page 15
By Frances Howland
With the lengthening evenings, and the coming of crisp, cool days, every needlewoman feels ambitious to increase her store of household linens, and seeks for something that will be “quite different” from pieces already in her possession.  Indeed, there is no subject of greater interest to the average housekeeper, who loves her home and delights in adding to its attractions, than that of table-napery; and if it can be decorated with her own handiwork, so much the more precious.
A handsome teacloth is really an essential, and that presented is distinctive as to design, and well balanced in its combination of eyelet-an and solid work,  Elaborate in effect, there is yet not so much time and labor involved as in many another much smaller piece, as close inspection of the worked design will show.  The treatment is bold, and all the more pleasing because so unusual.  A large, five-petaled flower occupies the center of the corner, outlined with satin-stitch, well padded with a circle of eyelets for the center, and a line of eyelets, three in number, across the top of each petal.  The large leaves are outlined in the same manner, the lines of veining being terminated with a single large eyelet, while the outlining of smaller leaves, sprays, and other sections with eyelets gives a lightness and grace to a design that, worked solidly throughout, might be rather heavy.  The work is connected at each side by a single eyelet, which makes it continuous, but one corner shows the design perfectly.  The edge is buttonholed in s hallow scallops, each consisting of several tiny ones.  In size, the cloth is rather more than forty inches.
A beautiful centerpiece for the Thanksgiving dining-table shows a horn of plenty, formed of alternating rows of eyelets and solid embroidery, from which graceful sprays extend, encircling the remainder of the piece.  The stems are well corded, the daisy-petals in satin-stitch, padded, as are also the leaflets, while the centers of daisies and the little circles which end the curving stems are of French knots, set closely together.  Plain scallops, buttonholed rather deeply and well padded, finish the edge.  But little work is involved, and the effect is beautiful.  Completed, this attractive centerpiece is twenty-two inches in diameter, a most useful size.

Another very lovely piece, twenty inches across, combines eyelet- and solid embroidery in an especially pleasing way.  The grape motif always finds plenty of admirers, whatever its character; and in the model presented it seems exceptionally artistic as to arrangement or combination with daisy- and leaf-sprays.  Just enough of eyelet-work is introduced to give lightness, taking not at all from the rich effect which all grape-designs possess in marked degree.  The edge is buttonholed in large scallops, rather deeply indented, each formed of seven smaller ones.

A dainty sixteen-inch centerpiece is entirely in eyelet-embroidery, save for the outlining of the flower-petals, the outer scallops of which form a portion of the buttonholed edge.  The motif is a charming one, and the centerpiece most unusual; there is nothing of the “set” look, so common to repeated designs, and it will prove a desirable addition to the sideboard, the serving-table or the little “occasional” table which is to be found in nearly every room in the house.
Directions for eyelet- and solid embroidery have been so explicitly given that there seems little to add.  The suggestion that, in order to have eyelet-embroidery truly effective, each and every eyelet must be perfectly worked, cannot be too often repeated.  Often a beginner does better work than after she has become more experienced, for the simple reason that she takes more pains at first.  Additional practise should not encourage the needlewoman to slight her work for the sake of getting over it more rapidly, because a simple piece well executed is far more satisfactory in every way than a much more elaborate one carelessly done.  If one will accustom one’s self to a certain method of work there will be no difficulty in shaping eyelets neatly.  In the first place surround the eyelet with short running-stitches, then make a second run of the same stitches, placing each between tow stitches of the first run.  If the lines are of sufficient length they may be stitched on the sewing-machine as a preliminary.  This double row of stitches gives a firm outline or edge which deeps the eyelet in perfect shape even after repeated laundering.  The center of oval eyelets, such as flower-petals, leaflets, and so on, is slashed in several directions to the line, forming little tabs of linen which are folded back beneath, and the tiny over-and-over stitches are taken over the doubled edge.  These stitches should be uniform in size, and as close together as it is possible to take them without overlapping.  When the eyelet is surrounded, fasten off with two or three tiny stitches on the wrong side – never carry the thread from one eyelet to another; and do not, for working eyelets, make the very common mistake of using too coarse thread.  The edge of an eyelet should be slightly raised, like fine, white wire, and perfectly true to the line.  Large circular eyelets, and even small ones, may be treated in the manner described; many prefer this to punching them; if a stiletto is used, do not press it so as to stretch the outline.  Many wood workers punch a circle from the wrong side; when this is done a little more skill is required to work it nicely, but the effect is excellent.
Extra pains must be taken with the solid embroidery – satin-stitch –also, if the effect is to justify the effort.  The padding-stitches must be carefully laid, lengthwise the form, unless in case of a circle, and the covering stitches taken across them, side by side, close together, but never overlapping.  The contour of a leaf or petal should be as true as the stamped line before working.  If one stitch is taken a thread or two beyond another, it gives the edge of the form a rough, uneven look that is far from pleasing.  And there is no necessity for this.  The habit of being accurate, of doing things as they should be done, can be formed in the matter of needlework as in other things; and then it will be found just as easy to take the stitches properly, and get a good effect, as to do the contrary and have the result so unsatisfactory that you will decide “embroidery isn’t really worth while, after all!”  It is the worker’s own fault, truly, if it isn’t.

Friday, December 21, 2012

Picturesque Styles for the Junior

1912, November, Page 14

Delightfully Quaint
Styles for the young girl follow closely the lines set for those of older woman, but in all of them there is that element of simplicity that should ever be a part of the smart costume for the junior.
Graceful gowns of every description are worn by the dainty miss this season.  Indeed never were styles for the young girl more picturesque than at the present time.
Every material, too, is used, satin and silk, and the whole range of charming woolens.  The frocks, however, are not much trimmed.  Instead they are marked by their absence of ornamentation, the lines in themselves being often sufficient to make for smartness, and the little details supplying all else that is required.
Model No. 5966 represents a graceful gown that while in the height of fashion, is simple enough for the most demure maiden.
It is developed in biscuit-color-and-brown striped serge and champagne-colored satin.  That is, the skirt is of the serge, and the waist fashioned of the latter material.
The waist has a trig collar of ecru lace over satin, the vest is of the satin tucked, or of white tucked net, as preferred, and the sleeves, which are elbow-length, are finished with two frills of chiffon, net or ecru edging.
The belt and sash-ends are of brown satin.  The waist has cutaway lines at bottom, and it extends in coat-fashion well down on the skirt.  The dress, while clever and fashionable in the extreme, is not in the least difficult to fashion, and may be constructed with ease by the home seamstress.
The pattern, No. 5966, is cut in sizes for 14, 16 and 18 years.  To make the dress in the medium size with the plaited skirt, will require 8 ½ yards of 36-inch material.  Without the plaiting 7 yards of 36-inch goods will be required, with ½ yard of 22-inch all0over.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Navy-Blue Serge Frock
For the high-school lass we show in model No. 5958 a practical and becoming frock, carried out in navy-blue serge, with the collar of blue moire, and the yoke of tucked blue chiffon.
Here is a dainty garment that is up to the minute in style-features.  It is quite an easy model to carry out.  The waist is tucked at the shoulders, this always producing good lines.  The Empire skirt corresponds, having tucks at each side of the front gore, which are a continuation of the waist tucks.  The long sleeves are perfectly plain, being guiltless of even a cuff.  A frill of lace may be used if desired, which will give a more dressy touch.
Other  appropriate materials for carrying out this model are olive-green cashmere, brown mohair, and blue-and-white striped woolen.  The design is also nice for development in white serge.
The pattern, No. 5958, is cut in sizes for 14, 16 and 18 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 4 ¾ yards of 44-inch material, 3/8 of a yard of 24-inch satin, and 3/8 of a yard of 18-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Serviceable Garment
Gray-and-red mixture was selected for the development of the pretty frock offered in design No. 5978, which is serviceable as well as stylish.
The waist is plain, its distinguishing feature being the Robespierre collar of white satin.  Gray pearl buttons trim the frock, fastening with steel-gray silk-cord loops.
The frock has a Quakeress simplicity which is not the least of its appealing features.
Either the Empire or the regulation waistline may be sued, and the skirt is a four-gored model.
The pattern, No. 5978, is cut in sizes for 14, 15 and 18 years.  To make the frock in the medium size will require 7 3/8 yards of 27-inch material, or 4 ½ yards of 54-inch material, with ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents

Misses’ Long Coat
Quite clever is the fascinating coat-model offered  in design No. 5974, which is for the small woman as well as for the miss.
Black satin was the material used for its development, with iris-blue satin collar and cuffs.  What could be more attractive for dressy wear?
This coat is simple to make.  It hangs perfectly straight, and the collar and wide revers are new-style touches.
Turquoise bone buttons are used for adornment, and to fasten the model.  The pattern offers choice of two styles of collar.
Brown mummy-cloth with tan-satin collar and cuffs will also develop the design richly.  Navy-blue serge, with white-serge relief, is attractive; while cheviot and checked materials are also serviceable and stylish.
The pattern, No. 5974, is cut in sizes for 14, 16 and 18 years.  To make the coat in the sixteen-year-old size will require 5 ½ yards of 36-inch material, or 3 ½ yards of 54-inch fabric, with 1 yard of 27-inch contrasting material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.


Thursday, December 20, 2012

Needlecrafters’ Own Page

Conducted by Our Readers
1912, November, Pages 12-13
This department has been urgently requested.  It is intended as a clearing-house of ideas – a sort of “give-and get” club, every member of which is privileged to ask for any desired article of needlework with explicit instructions for making, and in her turn to give, as opportunity offers.  Requests for such work as the editor herself is able to supply will not be printed, but the articles asked for shall appear in due season.  Let us all be glad to give as well as get, and thus aid in making The Needlecrafters’ Own Page the most helpful and delightful part of the paper.
Snowball Lace
By Mrs. J. T. Bazemor
Make a chain of 65 stitches, turn.
1.  Miss 7, a treble in next, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, forming a space) 18 times, turn.
2.  Chain 5, treble in treble, for the 1st space, always, 4 more spaces, then in next space make a cluster as follows: (Over, insert hook under 2 chain of last row, draw thread up in a loop as long as a treble) 10 times, take up the thread and draw through all these loops at once, chain 1 to close the cluster tightly, a treble in next treble; then 7 spaces, 1 cluster, 5 spaces, turn.
3.  Make 4 spaces (chain 5, treble in treble for 1st space), 1 cluster, 1 space, 1 cluster, 5 spaces, 1 cluster, 1 space, 1 cluster, 4 spaces, turn.
4.  * Make 3 spaces, 1 cluster, (1 space, 1 cluster) twice, repeat from *, 3 spaces, turn.
5.  Make 2 spaces, 1 cluster, (1 space, 1 cluster) 7 times, 2 spaces, turn.
6.  * Make 3 spaces, 1 cluster in space, between 2 cluster of last row, (1 space, 1 cluster) twice; repeat from *, 3 spaces, turn.
7.  Same as 3d row, putting the clusters in space between clusters of last row.
8.  Same as 2d row to scallop; after the 5 spaces at end of row do not turn, but make 7 chain, fasten in top of treble at end of 6th row, (chain 7, miss 2 spaces, fasten) twice, turn; make 14 doubles under each of 2 loops, 7 doubles under next, turn; (chain 7, fasten between 7th and 8th doubles of previous filled loop) twice, turn;  14 doubles under 1st loop, 7 under next, turn; chain 7, fasten in center of last filled loop, turn; 14 doubles under loop just made, 7 doubles under remaining half of next 2 loops down side of scallop.
9.  Chain 2, treble in treble, 19 spaces, turn.
10.  Like 2d row to scallop; (chain 2, a treble in center of 7 doubles at side of loop, chain 2, a treble at top of same loop, where loop below is joined) twice, chain 2, a treble in center of 7 doubles, chain 2, a treble in top of same loop, chain 2, a treble in center of loop on other side, chain 2, a treble where loops join, work down the side like the first, chain 2, and join at end of next row back, turn.
11.  Chain 7, fasten back in 5th stitch from needle for a picot, chain 2, treble under 2 chain; repeat around scallop, treble in treble, and continue the insertion as in 3d row.
Repeat insertion from 4th to 10th rows, inclusive, then repeat the scallop.
The insertion may be made as much wider as desired, and will be found a very attractive strip for a bedspread.  A narrower lace to match may have one row of diamonds in the cluster-stitch, instead of two.  The narrow insertion – of one diamond pattern – makes a very durable and pleasing insertion for towels or pillow-slips.
Round Collar or Centerpiece Border in Block-Stitch
By Minnie Apolis
Make a chain the length required.
1.  A double in each stitch of chain.
2, 3.  A double in each double of last row, taking up the back loop of stitch.
4.  Chain 14, turn, a double in each of 10 stitches, *chain 1, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back loop of stitch, repeat from * until you have 4 ribs or ridges, chain 10, miss 8 doubles of the 3d row, fasten in next, 10 doubles in 10 stitches of chain, and repeat from *.  Fasten the last block at end of 3d row with a triple treble, after completing the last ridge, and turn the work.
5.  Chain 14, fasten at corner of block, *chain 8, a triple treble between blocks, where the corners join, chain 8, fasten in corner of next block; repeat across, turn.
6, 7, 8.  Like 1st, 2d and 3d rows.
9.  Chain 4, a double treble in 1st stitch, chain 2, 2 doubles trebles in same stitch, * miss 5, shell of 2 double trebles, 2 chain and 2 double trebles in next stitch; repeat from * across, turn.
10.  Chain 4, treble in shell, chain 2, treble in same place, *chain 5, fasten between shells, chain 5, 2 trebles, separated by 2 chain, in next shell; repeat from * across.
11.  Chain 3, fasten under 2 chain, between 2 trebles, chain 4, fasten in same place, chain 3, fasten in same, chain 4, fasten under 2 chain between next 2 trebles, and repeat.
12.  Chain 7, fasten in top of 2d loop or picot, formed by 4 chain; repeat.
13.  Chain 6, * miss 2, a treble in next stitch, chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, chain 2, a treble in double over 2d picot, chain 2, repeat, making a treble over each center loop and 2 on the chain between, each separated by 2 chain.
14.  Chain 3 for a treble, treble in treble and 1 in next stitch, *chain 3, miss 1 space, a double in next and 2 doubles in each of 3 following spaces, chain 3, miss 1 space, a treble in next, treble in treble and treble in following space; repeat from *.
15.  Chain 3, a treble in 1st of 3 trebles, treble in each of next 2 and 1 in chain, beyond, *chain 4, 5 doubles over 7 doubles, missing 1st and last, chain 4, 3 doubles over 5 doubles, missing 1st and last, chain 4, a treble in 4th stitch of following chain and 2 in 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.
16.  Chain 3, treble in each of 1st, 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 2 trebles in 2 trebles and 1 in chain, *chain 4, 3 doubles over 5 doubles, missing 1st and last, chain 4, a treble in 4th stitch of following chain and 2 in 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.
17.  Chain 3, a treble in each of 2 trebles, *chain 3, a treble under 2 chain, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 3, miss 1 treble, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches, chain 4, fasten in center of 3 doubles, chain 4, miss 3 of chain, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.
18.  Chain 3 for 1st treble, treble in same place and 1 in 2d treble, *chain 6, catch back in 4th stitch for picot, chain 3, fasten in next space, repeat from * 3 times, chain 6, picot, chain 3, miss 1 treble, 2 trebles in next 2 and 1 in chain, a treble in 4th of next chain and 2 in 2 trebles; repeat from *, putting 2 trebles with picot-chain between in 2d of the 3 spaces of scallop.
This makes a very handsome border for an embroidered centerpiece, and almost any desired curve can be given it by missing more or less stitches of the inner edge (or neck if a collar) when making the blocks.  If preferred the border may be worked on the linen, but it is the better way to make it first, and apply it; then it can be easily removed for further use should the centerpiece wear out or become shabby while the lace is still good, as frequently happens.  When making a circular border join the ends of the chain, taking care that it is long enough to extend easily around the linen, and allowing a little for taking up, as it is better to have the lace a trifle full than have it draw.  The border completed by the 11th row is very pretty for a smaller centerpiece, and the edge beyond that, from 12th to 18t rows, inclusive, makes a very neat edging for doilies or other articles.
Hatband in Crochet
By Mrs. Travis Cooper
Use a heavy mercerized crochet-cotton, linen thread of similar size, or crochet-silk, as preferred.  When finished the band should be at least two and a half inches wide, and is very lovely over a black band of silk  or velvet.
Chain 6, join.
1.  Chain 4, 18 doubles trebles (triple trebles, putting thread over 3 times, may be used if one works rather tightly), turn.
(Note:  row 2 is missing from instructions in magazine)
3.  Chain 4, 2 double trebles in next 2 double trebles, (chain 4, 3 double trebles in next 3) 5 times, turn.
4.  Slip-stitch in 2d double treble, 9 doubles under 4 chain; repeat 4 times, chain 5, miss 2 of the last 3 double trebles and fasten in next. Turn.
Repeat from 1st row.  After making the 2d row in the 3d scallop, fasten the last double treble in the center of the 5th group (or 2d group counting back) of double trebles in 1st scallop, turn, and continue the 4th row of 2d scallop.  Join succeeding scallops in the same manner, each to the 2d one back.
Make the band of the size required and join the ends neatly.  In silk, this pattern makes a very attractive passementeries.
A Tatted Collar Bow
By Mrs. C. S. Wieland
These dainty bows may be made of crochet- or purse-silk, in white, black, or any desired color, or of linen or cotton thread, and also of any desired size, as the wheels may be readily enlarged by adding to the number of rings and chains contained in each.  It should also be remarked that, if fine working-material is used, the number of double knots between picots should be increased in order to make the rings of the size designated.
Commence the wheel with a ring of 2 double knots, (1 picot, 3 double knots) 4 times, 1 picot, 2 double knots, close; make a chain of 3 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 4 times, 1 picot, 3 double knots; make another ring as described, joining to preceding ring by 2d picot at the side; repeat, alternating rings and chains, until you have ten or twelve of each.  Join last ring to 1st by 2d side picot, and last chain to base of 1st ring.
Make three of these wheels, or two, if no pendant is wanted.  Join the two by middle picots of two consecutive chains, and join the third between them, the middle picot of a chain to middle picot of chain, on 1st wheel, next below where the two wheels are joined; join middle picot of next chain of third wheel to the picot which connects the 2 chains of upper wheels, and middle picot of next chain of third wheel to middle picot of chain of second wheel next to last joining.
Cut a tab of velvet, satin or taffeta ribbon, about five inches long,  with ends prettily notched, bring one end up through the opening in first wheel and put it down through opening of second wheel, letting the ends, nicely arranged, extend each side.
These wheels are easily made, and may be combined to form many dainty articles, borders, cushion-covers, handbags, and so on.  The center of each wheel, if used for other purpose than described,  may be filled with a “spiderweb,” the thread being carried across from picot to picot until all have been worked in, then knotted together in the center and a ring or other figure woven around the knot. 
Knitted Tie
By Miss Taussig
Two balls of crochet-silk, any color desired, are needed, and four steel needles, No. 19 or No. 20.
Cast 20 stitches on each of three needles.  Knit 14 stitches plain, and then commence the neck.
Knit 1 plain, narrow, knit 24, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 24, narrow, knit 1.
Knit 3 rows without narrowing, and again decrease as follows:  Knit 1, narrow, knit 22, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 22, narrow, knit 1.
Knit 3 rows more plain, and narrow again in the same manner, knitting 20 stitches instead of 22 between narrowings.  Continue until you have 32 stitches, 11 on each of two needles and 10 on the other, then knit fifteen inches (or according to size of neck) for the collar band.
To widen for the other end of tie:  Knit 1, pick up a stitch, knit 14, pick up 1, knit 2, pick up 1, knit 14, pick up 1, knit 1.
Knit 3 rows plain, and again increase, thus:  Knit 1, pick up 1, knit 16, pick up 1, knit 2, pick up 1, knit 16, pick up 1, knit 1.
Knit 3 more rows plain, and widen in the same way, continuing until you have again the 60 stitches.  Knit plain until the tie is long enough, or you have finished the second (full-sized) ball. 
Border in Coronation-Braid and Crochet
My Alta W. Mann
Miss one link of the braid, and loop the next two, crossing the stems so that a ring is formed of the two loops, fasten the crossing stems closely and securely with single crochet, make a loop of next four links of braid, fastening the stems where the first were fastened with a single, making a small loop within a large one, both fastened together at the same place; chain 7, miss 1 link, and repeat; making a strip the length of lace desired.
2.  Chain 8, 4 trebles under 7 chain of last row, *chain 5, 4 trebles under next 7 chain; repeat from * the length, ending with 5 chain and 1 treble over the double loop.
3.  Chain 7, 3 trebles under 5 chain, *chain 5, 3 trebles under next 5 chain; repeat , ending with a treble in 3d of 8 chain.
4.  Chain 5, miss 2 stitches of last row, a treble in next, *chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble; repeat from * the length and fasten off neatly.  This finished the upper edge.
5.  For the scallop, or lower edge of lace, join the thread between the links of large circle, at the side, *chain 3, fasten between links of small circle, chain 5, fasten between next 2 links of same large circle, chain 5, fasten between links of same small circle, chain 3, fasten over stem at side of same large circle and the next large circle, joining them together, and repeat from * to length of lace.
6.  Chain 11, fasten between links of large circle where 5 chain of last row was fastened; repeat.
7.  Chain 5, a treble in center of 11 chain, chain 2, 1 treble in same stitch, chain 5, fasten in the stitch where 11 chain was fastened  in last row; repeat.
8.  *Chain 3, a treble under 2 chain last made, (chain 2, a treble under same 2 chain) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in the fastening-stitch over the large loop, as before, and repeat.
In each space around scallop make 1 double and 2 trebles, fastening between the scallops.
This completes the pattern, which is quickly worked and effective.  It is best to begin each row at the same end, so as to bring it all right-side out.
Insertion of Coronation-Braid and Crochet
By Lola Cochrane 
Fasten between 1st and 2d links of braid, chain 3 for 1st treble, 2 more trebles under the same stem, *chain 1, miss 2 links, 3 trebles under next stem; repeat from * until you have the desired length, turn.
2.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under 1 chain, chain 1; repeat.
3.  Buttonhole the stem or end of 1st link to the stem between 2d and 3d links, fasten in and work across same as 1st row on opposite side.
4.  Line 2d row.
A very pretty and durable insertion for towels and similar articles.
Bedspread Knitted in Stripes, with Border
By Mrs. R. Randall
Cast on 89 stitches, knit across plain.
1.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 8, purl 37, knit 8, purl 10, knit 8.
2.  Knit 26, purl 37, knit 26.
3.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 53, purl 10, Knit 8.
4.  Like 2d row.
5.  Like 3d row.
6.  Knit 44, over, narrow, knit 43.
7.  Like 1st row.
8.  Knit plain.
9.  Like 1st row.
10.  Knit 26, purl 10, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 10, knit 26.
11.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 18, purl 17, knit 18, purl 10, knit 8.
12.  Knit 26, purl 10, knit 17, purl 10, knit 26.
13.  Like 11th row.
14.  Knit 8, twist (as follows: slip off 5 stitches on a third needle, knit 5, then knit the slipped stitches), knit 24, (over, narrow, knit 1) twice, over, narrow, knit 21, twist, knit 8.
15.  Like 1st row.
16.  Knit plain.
17.  Like 1st row.
18.  Knit 26, purl 8, knit 6, (over, narrow, knit 1) 3 times, over, narrow, knit 4, purl 8, knit 26.
19.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 16, purl 21, knit 16, purl 10, knit 8.
20.  Knit 26, purl 8, knit 21, purl 8, knit 26.
21.  Like 19th row.
22.  Knit 38, (over, narrow, knit 1) 4 times , over, narrow, knit 38.
23.  Like 1st row.
24.  Knit plain.
25.  Like 1st row.
26.  Knit 26, purl 6, knit 4, (over, narrow, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, knit 4, purl 6, knit 26.
27.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 14, purl 25, knit 14, purl 10, knit 8.
28.  Knit 26,  purl 6, knit 25, purl 6, knit 26.
29.  Like 27th row.
30.  Knit 8, twist, knit 17, (over, narrow, knit 1) 6 times, over, narrow, knit 16, twist, knit 8.
31.  Like 1st row.
32.  Knit plain.
33.  Like 1st row.
34.  Knit 26, purl 4, knit 3, (over, narrow, knit 1) 7 times, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 4, knit 26.
35.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 12, purl 29, knit 12, purl 10, knit 8.
36.  Knit 26, purl 4, knit 29, purl 4, knit 26.
37.  Like 35th row.
38.  Knit 32, (over, narrow, knit 1) 8 times, over, narrow, knit 31.
39.  Like 1st row.
40.  Knit plain.
41.  Like 1st row.
42.  Knit 26, purl 2, knit 2, (over, narrow, knit 1) 9 times, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 2, knit 26.
43.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 10, purl 33, knit 10, purl 10, knit 8.
44.  Knit 26, purl 2, knit 33, purl 2, knit 26.
45.  Like 43d row.
46.  Knit 8, twist, knit 14, (over, narrow, knit 1) 8 times, over, narrow, knit 13, twist, knit 8.
47.  Like 1st row.
48.  Knit plain.
49.  Like 1st row.
50, 51, 52.  Like 34th, 35th and 36th rows.
53.  Like 35th row.
54.  Knit 35, (over, narrow, knit 1) 6 times, over, narrow, knit 34.
55.  Like 1st row.
56.  Knit plain.
57.  Like 1st row.
58.  Knit 26, purl 6, knit 5, (over, narrow, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 6, knit 26.
59, 60.  Like 27th and 28th rows.
61.  Like 27th tow.
62.  Knit 8, twist, knit 21, (over, narrow, knit 1) 4 times, over, narrow, knit 18, twist, knit 8>
63.  Like 1st row.
64.  Knit plain.
65.  Like 1st row.
66., 67, 68.  Like 18th, 19th, and 20th rows.
69.  Like 19th row.
70.  Knit 41, (over, narrow, knit 1) twice, over, narrow, knit 40. 
71.  Like 1st row.
72.  Knit plain.
73.  Like 1st row.
74, 75, 76.  Like 10th, 11th and 12th rows.
77.  Like 75th row.
78.  Knit 8, twist, knit 26, over, narrow, knit 25, twist, knit 8.
79.  Like 1st row.
80.  Knit plain.
Repeat from 1st row.
Leaf Border for Bedspread 
Cast on 3 stitches, knit across plain.
1.  Over twice, narrow, knit 1.
2.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1.
3, 7, 9, 13.  Knit plain.
4.  Knit 4, make 1, knit 1.
5.  Knit 1, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.
6.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, make 1,  knit 1.
8.  Knit 8, make 1, knit 1.
10.  Bind off 5, knit 3, make 1, knit 1.
11.  Like 5th row.
12.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1 in the same stitch, knit 1.
14.  Like 8th row.
15.  Purl 1, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.
16.  Knit 3, (purl 1, knit 2) 3 times, make 1, knit 1.
17.  Purl 2, knit 12.
18.  Knit 13, make 1, knit 1.
19.  Knit 1, purl 2, knit 12.
20.  Bind off 5, pick up 1, knit 8, make 1, knit 1.
21.  Knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.
22.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 4, make 1, knit 1.
23.  Purl 1, * knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, pearl 2, knit 9.
24.  Knit 11, purl 7, make 1, knit 1.
25.  Purl 2, *knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.
26.  Knit 3, purl 1, (knit 2, purl 1) twice, knit 4, purl 9, *knit 1, make 1, knit 1.
27.  Knit 1, purl 2, *knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 2, knit 12.
28.  Knit 14, purl 11, knit 2, make 1, knit 1.
(Note:  no directions for row 29 in magazine)
30.  Bind off 5, knit 8, purl 11, knit 2, purl 1, make 1, knit 1.
31.  Knit 1, over, narrow, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl, 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.
32.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 9, knit 2, *purl 2, make 1, knit 1.
33.  (Over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 5, narrow, purl 2, knit 9.
34.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3, make 1, knit 1.
35.  Knit 1, (over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 3, narrow, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.
36.  Knit 3, (purl 1, knit 2) twice, purl 1, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, *purl 4, make 1, knit 1.
37.  Slip 1, knit 1, (over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 1, narrow, purl 2, knit 12.
38.  Knit 14, purl 2, knit 3, purl 5, knit 1.
39.  Like 37th row to *; knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 12.
40.  Bind off 5, pick up 1, knit 11, pick up 1, purl 5, knit 1.
41.  Like 37th to *; finish like 21st row.
42.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
43.  Like 37th row to *; like 23d from *.
44.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
45.  Like 37th to *; like 25th from star.
46.  Like 26th to *; knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
47.  Like 37th to *; like 27th from *.
48.  Knit 14, purl 11, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
49.  Like 37th to *; knit 11, purl 3, knit 12.
50.  Bind off 5, knit 8, purl 11, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
51.  Like 37th to *; like 31st from *.
52.  Like 32nd to *; purl 5, knit 1.
53.  Like 37th to *; like 33d from *.
54.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.
55.  Like 37th to *; like 35th from *.
56.  Like 36th to *; purl 5, knit 1.
57, 58, 59, 60.  Like 37th, 38th 39th and 40th rows.
Repeat the straight lace from 41st row until you have a strip as long as required for one side of your spread.  Four strips are required for the border.  When ready to mitre the corner, reverse the order, narrowing (instead of widening by making a stitch) at beginning of every odd row.  Do this by slipping and binding, taking care to keep the remainder of the pattern.  Having knitted the border to this point, no directions will be necessary for making this decrease.  Begin the next strip of border as before, and narrow off again to a point.  Join the mitred corners evenly, matching the pattern.
If preferred one may, of course, knit the border straight and full it around the corners when sewing on; but the mitred corners are neater.
Try crochet-cord for knitted or crocheted bedspreads.  Knitting cotton, so commonly used, is very soft, and when the spread is laundered it stretches badly.  Crochet-cord is little if any more expensive, and serves the purpose admirably.