August 1913 page 1
Summer is here, and the final authoritative word has been spoken regarding tailored suits, gowns, blouses and accessories.
The semitailored suit of silk moire, crepe and poplin has taken the place of the heavier worsted one for general and more dressy wear.
Moire coats are combined with skirts of plain crepe de Chine or charmeuse and quaint little coats of flowered taffeta are worn with skirts in contrasting colors. There are lace coatees for wear with the finer lingerie frocks and smart models of eyelet-embroidery to accompany the one-piece cottons. Striped and checked materials are favored for the separate skirt, which is more popular than it has been for many seasons.
One-piece frocks in the printed silks, poplins, or fashionable crepons, hold first place in the summer wardrobe. They are suitable to wear for almost any occasion. Shantung is very much used for these dresses in Paris, but has not become quite as popular here, although it is considered smart.
Most of these frocks are fashioned on simple lines; the long, straight skirt, or one showing just a touch of drapery in front or at the side, a plain set-in sleeve, and a softly draped sash. Sash, collar and cuffs usually are of contrasting colors and materials. These add a distinctive touch to the dress and are one of the seasons’ prettiest notes.
Two charming examples of this style of frock are here illustrated. A soft terra-cotta crepe broche with collar, cuffs and girdle just a shade lighter is used for number 6253. It is decidedly plain, but shows excellent lines. Number 6257 and 6258 has a novel panel-effect down the front, terminating in a bit of graceful drapery. The long sleeve fits into a normal armhole and has a broad, close-fitting cuff. One of the season’s decrees is that the long sleeve shall fit closely at the wrist. Another pretty touch is the novel arrangement of the sash. The gown is of silk poplin in a soft shade of taupe, with collar, cuffs and sash of Chinese-blue figured charmeuse.
Those fetching short tunics which stand away from the figure are also effective in these silks. The underskirt falls straight and narrow, the tunic is either bound around the bottom with a heavier silk than the gown or is boned with a light feather-bone to get the desired effect.
Thee frocks depend a great deal for trimmings on the novelty buttons and buckles which are so much used. New ideas in these are being evolved constantly, with some charming color-schemes as the result. Porcelain sets in soft blues and green are new and very pretty. A set of buttons and a buckle formed by a bar of rose coral set across round rims of dull silver, trimmed a charmeuse frock of dull old-red with wonderful effect.
For sports and rough wear, suits and dresses are fashioned of the heavy cottons, duck, ratine or eponge; more elaborate materials, such as khaki, tweed, homespuns, corduroy and serges are also used, but the heavy linens which were so popular for this purpose in seasons past have been almost entirely displaced.
The one-piece outing-dress for tennis, rowing, etc., is built on rather severe lines but is generally becoming to the figure. Many of the suits show the divided skirt which may be unbuttoned, front and back, and used for riding. There are numerous convenient pockets. A favorite model for these outing-dresses is the coat top dress with coat of bright colors and skirt of white.
Filminess is the first requisite for the fine lingerie frock, and the summer evening gown. The cotton and silk crepons, voiles and etamines meet this requirement easily and are charmingly cool and dainty. Nearly every shade may be found in them as well as quaint flowered designs which remind one of “The long ago.”
Entire gowns are fashioned of net and lace. The wide lace flouncings lend themselves especially well to the popular two-tiered skirts. Many of these gowns are draped quite full around the hips, but the softness of the materials dissimulates the fulness (sic) , and the siluouette (sic) remains the same, the skirts tapering if anything, until they are narrower than ever around the bottom.
Despite all rumors to the contrary, skirts have remained narrow. Women have learned to walk gracefully in them, and find that they are more far comfortable and pleasing than the very wide ones of former seasons, and although it has been denied, the slash is still favored. If it is not a direct slash it is a clever arrangement of folds and drapery which open at front or side to reveal a daintily shod foot and slender ankle.
Futurist and Cubist sashes, while still smart, have been displaced somewhat in these light frocks by plain soft tints in taffeta or satin ribbon. The soft Roman-striped sash is a very pretty accompaniment to the simple white dress, and is also effective with the dark tailored suit for a young miss.
The nifty little bolero is one of the pretty revivals of the season. They are usually worn over a blouse of net or shadow-lace.
Owing to their exquisite daintiness, blouses of net, chiffon and lace became popular immediately. With the hot days at hand their coolness will lend another charm. Tiny, hand-run tucks trim many, some are beautifully embroidered in white and colors, and there are numberless simple little blouses with just a frill of lace at the throat and cuffs. Many of the pretty shadow-lace blouses are effectively veiled with chiffon.
Chiffon forms the bodice of most of the summer evening gowns, the skirts are of charmeuse or an equally soft clinging material. One of the new shades for evening is a wonderful red.
Fortunate indeed is she who has bits of old lace, Chantilly flouncings, etc.; they can be utilized to advantage this summer. The fichu is seen in one form or another on many gowns and blouses, and the wired Medici collar is very modish; it gives an extremely smart touch to the collarless waist. Ruffles of tulle, chiffon and point d’esprit also give a dainty finish to neck and sleeves.
The wide Chantilly scarf has taken the place of the scarf of chiffon for throwing around the shoulders, to a degree; and tulle is also used for this purpose, with charming effect.
The diaphanous note is also carried out in the summer millinery, and tulle and lace-trimmed hats are seen everywhere. Plaitings of lace or tulle stand up around the crown, or drop over the brim, giving a wonderful softness to the face. Small tulle turbans are chic, and the large mushroom shaped hat, with a wreath of osprey is a graceful accompaniment to a light frock. Small bunches of flowers and fruit are seen on many.
The parasol is a very effective addition to the summer toilette; more attention is being shown to it than for some time past. Handles are fascinating, and the sunshade itself is developed in many new shapes, some queer but effective.
Handbags, too, are important and are fashioned in many odd, pretty shapes and designs. Clasps and rims are often set with semiprecious stones. The effect is rich when not carried too far.
Bathing-suits and accessories show greater variety, perhaps, than ever before. There is every imaginable device and novelty, most of them very practical as well as attractive.
Checked skirts are seen with blue or black cutaway coats, and the effect in these waterproof fabrics is quite as smart as the street-suits of this design. Brilliant sashes and frilled caps and hats brighten the suits, and are most appropriate.
The hats and caps are very alluring; some have frilled rims, others narrow straight brims which afford the eyes protection from the glare of sun and water. A broad-brimmed waterproof hat is especially practical, having a fitted lining which gathers closely over the hair.
Charmingly colored bouquets of rubberized silk are pretty touches, and there is a vanity-case of the same material for the handkerchief and for powder-puff.
The waist-pattern of this costume, No. 6257, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the waist in the 36-inch size will require 2 3/8 yards of 36-inch material. 1 3/8 yards of edging, 7/8 of a yard of 36-inch lining for the guimpe. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
The skirt-pattern, No. 6258, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure. To make the skirt in the 24-inch size will require 3 ¾ yards of 36-inch material. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
The pattern, No. 6253, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure. To make the dress in the 36-inch size will require 4 yards of 44-inch material, 3/8 of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods. Price of pattern, 10 cents.