Welcome to my blog about Home Arts Needlecraft Magazine! I "discovered" this publication about 2 years ago and fell in love with it to the extent that I had to start collecting issues as I ran across them. The magazine began publication with its September, 1909 premier issue, and continued through March, 1941. It has been interesting to follow the changes through the 30 plus years the magazine was published. It is a great source for needlework, fashion, recipes and short stories. Through my journey of sharing my issues online, I hope to discover a pattern of what was popular in different forms of needlecraft over the 3 decades. I hope you enjoy my blog as much as I am (so far!) enjoying posting articles and projects from the issues. Thanks for visiting!

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Needlecrafters’ Own Page

Conducted by Our Readers
1913 08, page 14

This department has been urgently requested.  It is intended as a clearing-house of ideas – a sort of “give-and-get” club, every member of which is privileged to ask for any desired article of needlework with explicit instructions for making, and in her turn to give, as opportunity offers.  Requests for such work as the editor herself is able to supply will not be printed, but the articles asked for shall appear in due season.  Let us all be glad to give as well as get, and thus aid in making The Needlecrafters’ Own Page the most helpful and delightful part of the paper.

Double-Fan Insertion
By Mrs. Sarah A. Griffith
Cast on 38 stitches, and knit across once.
1.      Slip 1, knit 1, over, narrow, *knit 8, over 3 times, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 9, **over, narrow, knit 1.

2.     Edge (that is, like 1st row to *); purl 8, make 6 stitches in the 3 “overs” by (purl 1, knit 1) three times, purl 14, again make 6 stitches in the three overs, purl 9; edge (that is, like 1st row from **).

3.     Edge; (narrow, knit 18) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

4.     Edge; purl 40; edge

5.     Edge; narrow, knit 5, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 6, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 1; edge.

6.     Edge; purl 51; edge.

7.     Edge; (narrow, knit 22) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

8.     Edge; purl 48; edge.

9.     Edge; narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 4, narrow, knit 5, over, knit 3, narrow, knit 1; edge.

10.  Edge; purl 45; edge.

11.  Edge; (narrow, knit 19) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

12.  Edge; purl 42; edge.

13.  Edge; knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knot 9 together, over, knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together. Knit 1; edge.

14.  Edge; purl 30; edge.

15.  Edge; knit 15, over, knit 15; edge.

16.  Edge; purl 31; edge.
Repeat from 2d row.
In crochet-cord or knitting-cotton this makes a wide and handsome stripe for a counterpane, to be finished with a border of lace having a single row of fans.



Hexagon for Bedspread, Diamond Pattern

By Mrs. A. L. Montgomery

Use crochet-cord, white or cream-color, as preferred; No. 25 linen thread, or finer, makes a very handsome spread.

Commence with a chain of 8 stitches, join.

1.      Chain 3 for 1st treble, 23 trebles in ring, join to top of 3 chain.

2.     A single between 3 chain and 1st treble, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 2, 2 trebles in same place, *chain 2, miss 4 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between next 2; repeat from * 4 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain in 1st shell.

3.     Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3, 1 treble, 2 chain and 2 trebles in same shell, *chain 2, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain as before.

4.     Commencing with 1st shell as in preceding row (do this every row), make shell in shell, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

5.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row, always) chain 2, tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

6.     Shell in shell, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2, treble in chain preceding the trebles of last row, a treble in each treble, 1 in chain following, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.
7, 8, 9, 10, 11.  Same as 6th row, increasing the trebles between the tuft-stitches by 2 each row, or by 3 if found necessary, to keep the work perfectly flat.
The hexagon may be made as large as desired; one has simply to continue increasing as directed.  Finished with a lace border, when of required size, it makes a very handsome centerpiece.  Indeed, an entire set of mats, large and small, may be made in the same way, and numerous used will be found for the pattern.  In making a bedspread join the hexagons either with single crochet or by means of needle and thread, matching the portions exactly and making the joining as invisible as possible.  By having your crochet-work in a convenient place where it can be caught up for a few minutes’ work now and then, a sufficient number of hexagons for a handsome p of spread will be completed almost before you are aware. 
Tuft-stitch is made as follows:  Make 7 trebles under 2 chain, drop the top loop of last treble, insert hook in top of 1st treble made, pick up the dropped loop and draw through, then chain 2, and continue.  The 7 trebles are thus closely joined to form a cluster or tuft.
Another diamond hexagon, simple and pretty, is made in much the same way.  Chain 8, join.
1.      Chain 3, a treble in ring, *chain 2, 2 trebles in ring, repeat from * 10 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain.  There will be 12 groups of 2 trebles, each separated by 2 chain.

2.     Slip-stitch to 2 chain, chain 3, a treble under chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under next chain, chain 2, shell under next; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain to top of 3 chain.

3.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row of first hexagon), chain 2, 2 trebles in each treble of last row, chain 2; repeat.

4.     Shell in shell, chain 2, 2 trebles in 1st treble following, treble in each treble following with 2 in last, chain 2; repeat.
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.  Same as 4th row, making shell in shell with 2 chain each side, and increasing the trebles between shells by putting 2 in 1st and last, with treble in treble between.  Continue until the hexagon is of the size desired.
Remember that the beauty of a spread formed of these hexagons depends largely on the neatness and exactness with which the joining is done.  The centers of shells must meet, and also each stitch between, the needle passing through a treble of each hexagon at the same time.  Do not draw the thread too tightly, whether you use a sewing-needle or crochet-hook; but bring the stitches firmly together so that the diamonds will have the appearance of having been made whole, treble meeting treble as if one had been worked in another.
Either hexagon, but the way, increased in size as required and fashioned of suitable material, will make a handsome, serviceable cover for organ- or piano-stool.

Elephant in Filet-Crochet
By Lady English
As arranged, this design makes a very pleasing inset for children’s towels, scarf for a child’s room, or other similar article.  One mother, who delights in interesting her little people and making their room pleasant and attractive, has a different inset or insertion – representing animals or birds – for each towel.  The same designs may be cross-stitched if desired, reversing the method of copying a cross-stitch pattern in filet- or block-crochet; that is, the space filled with trebles is cross-stitched, open spaces left plain.
Use linen thread No. 50 – finer if desired – and make a chain of 81 stitches.

1.      Miss 7, 1 treble in next stitch, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble in next, forming a space) 24 times, turn.

2.     Chain 5, a treble in next treble, (2 in space and 1 in treble) 23 times, making 70 trebles in all, chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, forming the last space, turn.

3.     Chain 5, 4 trebles in 4 trebles (as the beginning of every row is the same to this point we will simply call this “edge”, hereafter), 21 spaces, then the edge of 4 trebles (counting all), chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, turn.

4.     Edge; 21 spaces; edge.

5.     Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

6.     Edge; 6 spaces, 7 trebles, 13 spaces, edge.

7.     Edge, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

8.     Edge; 5 spaces, 43 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

9.     Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 37 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

10.  Edge; 4 spaces, 46 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

11.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 34 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

12.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

13.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

14.  Edge; 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

15.  Edge; 2 spaces, 34 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

16.  Edge; 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 28 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

17.  Edge; 6 spaces, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

18.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

19.  Edge; 7 spaces, 37 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

20.  Edge; 3 spaces, 34 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

21.   Edge; 2 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 28 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

22.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

23.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles 19 spaces, 19 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

24.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

25.  Edge; 3 spaces 4 trebles, 3 spaces, (10 trebles, 1 space) twice, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

26.  Edge; 3 spaces, 25 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

27.  Edge; 8 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

28, 29, 30.  Edge; 21 spaces; edge.  If desired additional rows of spaces may be made between the motifs.

31.  Same as 27th row.

32.  Same as 26th row.
Continue in this way to repeat the first motif, reversing the order of rows or working backward.  The 56th row will be the same as the 2d row, after which a row of spaces entirely across the pattern finished the inset.
To strengthen the edge it is a good plan to work around it in the “buttonhole-crochet” or double stitch, putting 2 doubles into each space with double in treble; at corners make 7 doubles in the space to turn.
Having hemstitched your towel or scarf, apply the inset evenly, about one inch (or as desired) above the hem, and at equal distance from each side, cutting the linen from beneath and felling back securely.
Directions are given for working the motif crosswise; if, however, it is desire to make the inset exactly as shown, it may be worked lengthwise.  To do this, commence with a chain of 176 stitches.

1.      All spaces, 57 in all, commencing as in 1st row of the crosswise work

2.     Same as 2d row above, making 166 trebles, with a space at each end of row.

3, 4.  Edge; 53 spaces; edge.

5.      Edge; 4 spaces, 10 trebles, *11 spaces; work back from * to beginning of row.

The pattern can be so easily continued in length that it does not seem necessary to give directions in detail.


Man’s Knitted Silk Sock

By Mrs. A. K. Mansfield

Use knitting-silk of any desired color; if you knit tightly, use No. 16 steel needles, if loosely, No. 17 or No. 18.
Cast 108 stitches on one needle, as it is easiest to do this, then knit 38 stitches off on the 1st needle, 36 on the 2d, and 34 on the 3d, and to join the stocking knit 2 stitches from 1st needle on to the last, which will give you 36 stitches on each needle.
Knit once around plain, then knit 2 and purl 2 for 50 rounds, forming the ribbed or garter top.
The plain knitting is now commenced with the back needle, the one where the end of silk shows at the joining of the top of sock.

1.      Knit 18, make a stitch by knitting in the back of this center stitch, thus making 2 stitches of 1, knit 18, and knit the rest of the round plain.  On the back needle you now have 37 stitches, with 36 on each of the other two.  This extra stitch is the center stitch of the sock, and must be purled in every round.

2 to 39.  Knit plain, always purling the 19th stitch on back needle.

40.  Knit 15, narrow, knit 1, purl the center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 15; knit remaining two needles plain.

41 to 47.  Knit plain, always purling the center stitch.

48.  Knit 14, narrow, knit 1, purl center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 14; knit other two needles plain.
Repeat from 41st row, decreasing on the back needle every 8th round as directed, until you have completed the 88th round, in which you have 23 stitches remaining on the back needle, or 95 stitches in all.  Knit 42 rounds plain, without decreasing, but purling always the center stitch on the back needle.
For the heel:  Knit to end of back needle, and from the first side needle (the next needle) knit 13 stitches off on to the back needle.  Knit the remaining 23 stitches from 1st side needle on to another needle, and knit the second side needle to within 13 stitches of the end.  These 13 stitches you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting.  You now should have 49 stitches on the heel, and 23 on each side needle.  These two front needles are not use again until the heel is completed.
1.     Slip 1st stitch, purl 23, knit center stitch, purl 24.
2.     Slip 1st stitch, knit 23, purl center stitch, knit 24.
Repeat these two rows until the heel is long enough, or for 38 rows.  In the 38th row, when you get to the center, purl 2 together; this ends the center stitch and leaves 48 stitches on your needle.
To round off the heel: Knit 31, narrow, turn work, purl 15 purl 2 together, turn knit 15, narrow, and repeat from * until you have 16 stitches remaining on your needle.  Now with the needle on which you have the 16 stitches pick up and knit 24 stitches along the side of the heel, knit 5 stitches from the front needle on the same; knit all the stitches from the two front needles on to another needle except the last five; knit these 5 stitches on to a third needle, take up and knit 24 stitches down side of heel, and knit off 8 stitches from the first needle on to the third.  You will now have 37 stitches on each side needle and 36 on the front.
Knit once around plain; when you come to the first side needle again, knit that plain to within 7 stitches of the end (that is, knit 30 stitches plain), narrow, knit 5; knit plain across front needle; on third needle (or second side needle) knit 5, slip and bind, knit rest plain.  *Knit two rounds without decreasing, again knit first side needle to within 7 stitches of end, narrow, knit 5, knit across front needle, knit 5 on next needle, slip and bind, knit rest plain, and repeat from * until you have reduced to 29 stitches on each side needle.
Knit plain until the foot is as long as desired’ probably 90 rounds will be sufficient, which will give a length of nine and one-half inches, including the heel.
To narrow the toe: Put as many stitches on the front needle as you have on both the others together; that is, take 6 stitches from one side needle and 5 from the other, and place them on the front needle, making 47 stitches on that, and leaving 23 stitches on one and 24 on the other side needle.  Commence the toe on the front needle thus: *Knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on first back needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit rest plain; on 2d back needle knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; knit 2 rounds plain; repeat from * until you have 44 stitches – more or less according to size of stocking – left on all the needles; then knit front and back stitches together and bind off, fastening securely.  Any other method of narrowing that is preferred may be chosen, but this makes a neat toe.
These direction may be used for cotton or worsted socks, using fewer stitches and needles of size proportioned to the coarser material.  Having knitted one pair of the socks no one will find any difficulty in varying the size as required.
No more acceptable gift to a brother or father could be devised than a pair of these handknit, durable half-hose; and the work of making them is not at all tedious.  Two and one-half ounces of knitting-silk should be sufficient.













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