Some Dainty Gifts Made with a Shuttle by Edith Bradley

(January, 1912, page 4)

There is no prettier or more durable work than tatting.  Insets fashioned in this manner have the appearance of reticella lace, the double knots, evenly ranged, imitating very closely the buttonholed bars which are distinctive of the latter and other needlepoint laces.  Many who are expert in different varieties of needlecraft have the idea that tatting is difficult to do, but in this they are mistaken.  It is among the very simplest of arts, once the knack of making the knot is caught, and that comes readily with a little practice.
 

The wheels and medallions forming the jabot which is composed entirely of tatting may be utilized as insets, in making yokes, collars, or for any desired purpose.  Using No. 36 thread, make first the 4-ring figures in the center of medallion, thus:  make a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, close; repeat until you have 4 rings, worked as closely together as possible, tie and cut thread.  Make four of these figures for each medallion.
 
Now, using both threads, join to a picot of one of the rings, make 3 double knots, turning so the purled edge is toward you, then with one thread make a ring of 2 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 5 times, close; again turning work downward make a chain of 3 double knots, join to picot of next ring in same figure, 3 double knots, a ring as before, joining to preceding by 1^st picot at side (which should be a trifle longer than the 3 picots at top of ring), and continue until you have joined to one side of each 4-ring figure.  After the last joining, having made the 3 double knots and ring, work around the end with (chain of 6 double knots, 1 ring, joined to preceding) 3 times, 3 double knots, join to picot of 1^st ring in 4th figure, and continue up side of medallion, rounding the opposite end as described, and joining last 3 chain to the picot where 1^st 3 chain started.  A very pretty band or trimming is made by continuing the 4-ring figure and the surrounding edge to the length required.

Three of the medallions are required for the tab, joined by picot of 2d ring at each side, leaving two rings at the top to be joined to the lower wheel.
 
Make wheels as follows: 1. Commence in the center with a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, close; make four more rings, drawing all closely together in the center, tie and cut thread.
 
2.  Make a ring of 4 double knots, 7 picots with 2 double knots between, 4 double knots, close; make a chain of 4 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 4 double knots; make a ring like the last, joining to preceding by 1^st picot at side; a chain of 7 double knots; repeat around, joining every other chain to a picot of center, and last ring to 1^st by side picot, also join last chain to base of 1^st ring.

3.  Join thread to picot connecting two  rings of last row, make 2 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 13 times, join between next 2 rings; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st chain started.
 
This completes the wheel, pretty and useful for many purposes.  Make three more in the same way, joining by picot of 2 chains, leaving a free chain in the center or inner side and five outside.  To fill the space in center, make first a four-ring figure as described for the center of medallions; fasten to a picot of ring, make a chain of 2 double knots, (1picot, 2 double knots) 5 times, join to picot of next ring, and repeat three times.  Join each chain at middle picot to a picot of the free chain in wheel.
 
The jabot may be mounted over plaited lawn, if desired, the latter being edged with rings and chains such as surround the four-ring figures of medallion.
 

A very pretty jabot with tatted edge and insets is made as follows: Take a square of handkerchief linen seven by seven inches, allowing also for a one-fourth-inch hem.  Cut off one corner in order to “square” the top of the jabot, which is to be folded or plaited into a narrow band.  Draw threads one half inch from the edge along three sides, making a space about one eighth inch wide, and work with latter-hemstitch, that is, hemstitch both edges, taking up the same threads each side, so as to form tiny bars across the space.
 
In each corner, about one fourth inch from the hem, place an inset of tatting, made thus: Using No. 50 thread and two shuttles (or drawing the second thread from the spool, if you prefer),  make a chain of 1 double knot, 1 very small picot, 4 double knots; make a ring of (3 double knots, 1 picot) 7 times, 3 double knots, close; chain of 4 double knots; ring of 3 double knots, join to last picot of preceding ring, (3 double knots, 1 picot) 8 times, 3 double knots, close; chain of 4 double knots; another ring like 1^st, joining by 1^st picot to preceding ring; a chain of 4 double knots, join to very small picot first made.  This completes one clover-leaf or corner.  Make a chain of 8 double knots; a ring of 6 double knots, (1 very small picot, 6 double knots) 3 times, close (this for the center ring); 8 double knots; 1 very small picot, 4 double knots, then proceed with second cloverleaf, joining 3d picot of 1^st ring to 5^th picot of last ring of preceding leaf or corner.  After last ring of this cloverleaf make 4 double knots, join to very small picot last made, 8 double knots, join to picot of center ring, and continue until you have reached the point where you began, when tie and cut thread.  If preferred, the center ring may be made first; then 8 double knots, 1 very small picot, 4 double knots, and so on, joining 8 double knots at last to base of center ring.
 
Baste these medallions neatly in place, buttonhole closely all around, catching into every picot on outer edge of rings, and cut the linen carefully from beneath.  This may be done before buttonholing, as follows: Having basted the medallion on, make a tiny aperture in the center of the little square of linen covered and cut from that to each corner; turn back these points of linen, baste smoothly, and buttonhole over the doubled edge.  This makes neat work and prevents fraying or pulling out of the buttonholing.
 
For the edge of the jabot make a ring of 4 double knots, (1 picot, 4 double knots) 3 times, close; make a chain of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots; again a ring like 1^st, joining to preceding by side picot, which should be a trifle longer than usual.  Continue in this way, alternating rings and chains, until you have the length desired.   Sew to the jabot by running needle through the hem and catching into each picot.  It makes a very pretty little trimming for handkerchiefs and other small articles.
 
Plait the jabot in one wide plait, folding the side corners from outside to center so that they meet at the top, and put into a narrow binding.  The small bow may be added or dispensed with, as preferred.  Take a piece of the linen two inches wide and four inches long, allowing an extra half inch each way for the hem, which is drawn and hem-stitched as described.  Finish with the tatted edging, and form into a bow by plaiting the center and covering with a narrow band of the linen.
 
The stock-collar presented might be very attractively made of silk, black, white or of a color matching the gown or waist with which it is to be worn.  The model is of No. 40 thread, and of simple but pleasing design.

1.        Make a ring of 10 double knots, 1 very small picot (for drawing the joinings close together), 10 double knots, close; chain of 10 double knots, 1 very small picot, 10 double knots; a ring of 10 double knots, join to picot of previous ring, 10 double knots, close; another ring like 1^st, as close to the last ring as possible to make it.  Repeat to the length desire for collar.

2.       Make a ring of 10 double knots, join to picot between 2 rings of last row; chain of 10 double knits, picot, 10 double knots; another ring, joining to same picot as before; another ring, close to this, joining between next 2 rings of last row; repeat to end of row, alternating the two rings, both joined to picot between 2 rings of previous row, forming groups of 4 rings, and the chains.

3.       Like 1^st row, joining the picot of each chain to picot of chain in 2d row.

4.       Same as 3d row, working on the lower side of 1^st row, or edge of collar,

5.  Like 2d row, save that each ring is composed of 8 double knits, instead of 10 double knots on each side of the joining picot.  This row is at the upper edge of collar.

If desired, narrow velvet ribbon, or silk ribbon, may be run in and out the spaces formed by the chains joining the 2d and 3d rows, and the 5^th and 1^st.

This collar is made in what is sometimes called “modern tatting,” the picots, save such as are required for joining, being eliminated.  Cuffs may be made to match the collar, and the design is a very effective one for bands or insertions, which may be of any width – having the rings of one size, instead of making one row of smaller ones as directed for the collar.  Made of rather coarse linen thread, such tatting is a very attractive and modish trimming for many articles of wearing-apparel and household linen.  The thread may be had in natural or flax-color (gray) and cream-color, or unbleached, as well as pure white; and while such trimmings are very pleasing made in the finer threads for use on lightweight materials, those of the heave threads are in high favor at present, being used with excellent effect upon pongee and similar silks as well as white or colored linens.  For silk gowns, too, tatting made of purse- or crochet-silk is well liked.

As an insertion to be set above the hem-stitched hem of dresser- or sideboard-scarf, pillow-slips, towels, and other articles of household use requiring a finish which shall be both durable and decorative, nothing could be better.

A pretty handkerchief is always received with favor, and there is no neater trimming for such purpose than tatting.  To make the dainty handkerchief illustrated you will require a twelve-inch square of fine handkerchief-linen and a spool of No. 100 thread.  Draw threads for a hem one half inch wide, making the space about one eighth inch wide, and one and one-half inches from the top or inner edge of hem draw threads for another row of hemstitching like first, cutting threads and turning them under at the edge of hem.  Use the ladder-hemstitch, formed by taking the same threads at each stitch on both sides of the space.

In the little square at each corner, outlined by the hemstitching, insert a wheel made as follows: Make a ring of 1 double knot, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 11 times, 1 double knot, close, tand cut thread.  Make a ring of 6 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 6 double knots, close; leave one fourth inch thread, make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, close; again leave one fourth inch thread, make a small ring like 1^st, joining to next picot of center, and continue until you have 12 small and 12 large rings, joining the latter by 1^st picot at side.  Join also last to 1^st ring, tie and cut thread.  Baste the wheels in place, buttonhole the edge closely and cut the linen from beneath.  Use a rather fine mercerized cotton or embroidery-floss for the buttonholing.

Edge the hem with a row of rings, each of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 5 times, 4 double knots, close; join the rings by 1^st side picot, leaving sufficient thread between to keep the line of rings smooth and straight.  Whip threads between rings to edge of handkerchief.

No collection of tatted gifts would be complete unless containing a bonbon doily, which may also serve as a cover for a round toilet-cushion – or a square one, for that matter, the sides of the cover being brought down between the corners of the cushion.  Tatting is particularly serviceable for such purpose, since the work is usually so close that pinholes in the cushion are not noticeable, while the pins are readily admitted.  The cushion itself is easily made of satin, any desired color, and will add to the value of the gift.  A round cushion may have two of the tatted circles, laced together at the edge by means of narrow ribbon run in and out the last row of rings.

Using No. 24 thread, commence in the center of the doily.
1.       Make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, close: make 3 more of these rings, joining each to the preceding by 1^st picot at side, and last ring to 1^st in like manner.   Tie and cut thread.

2.       Make a ring of 2 double knots, picot, 2 double knots, join to 3d picot of center ring, 2 double knots, 1 picot, 2 double knots, close; leave one fourth inch thread, make a ring exactly as described for the center, leave one fourth inch thread, make a small ring same as before, joining to 4^th or middle picot of same center ring, leave space of thread, make a large ring like preceding, joining to the latter by 1^st picot at side, again make a small ring (always leaving same space of thread between large and small rings), join to 5^th picot of same center ring, make a large ring, joining to preceding large ring as before, make a small ring of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 3 times, 2 double knots, close, a large ring, joining as before, and repeat from beginning of row, joining 3 small rings to each of the center rings, making a free or unjoined ring between the groups, and alternating with the large rings of outer row; there will be sixteen rings in each size.  The wheel thus formed makes a lovely medallion for many purposes, especially if made of finer thread.

3.       Make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 4 times, 4 double knots, close; a 2d ring in same way, but with 7 picots, joining by 1^st picot to last picot of preceding ring, and by middle picot to middle picot of large ring in preceding row; make a 3d ring like 1^st, joining to 2d ring by 1^st picot at side; make a chain of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 10 times, 4 double knots; repeat, joining 1^st ring of each cloverleaf by middle picot to middle picot of last ring of preceding cloverleaf.  This, too, makes a pretty medallion, or may be used as a tumbler-doily.

4.  Make a small ring like those in 2d row, joining to 3d picot of a chain in preceding row; make a large ring as in 2d row; leaving the space of thread as in that row, another small ring, joining to 6^th or middle picot of chain; a large ring, joining to preceding large ring by 1^st side picot; a small ring, joining to 9^th picot of chain; a large ring, joining to preceding ring as directed.   Repeat around, joining 3 small rings over each chain, and alternating them with the large rings.  This row completes yet another doily.

5.       Same as 2d row, joining a small ring to middle picot of each large ring in previous row.
By repeating the last two rows, joining 2 small rings over a large one, as it is necessary to keep the work flat and smooth, the doily may be made as large as required.  Indeed, a very handsome luncheon-set, consisting of doilies of various sizes, with centerpieces to match, is easily fashioned by one at all accustomed to tatting.  If an oval centerpiece is wanted, simply add to the number of rings in the center, arranging them in oval rather than circular form, and working around them as directed, widening at the ends and continuing without increasing along the sides.

6.  For the border, either cut and tie thread at end of last row or draw the thread up at the back and through a picot at top of large ring.    Make a chain of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, join to middle picot of next ring; repeat around and fasten off neatly.

As suggested, this makes a beautiful and useful doily for a bonbon-dish, as it protects the polished wood of the table, while allowing it to show through the lacelike texture.