Needlecrafters’ Own Page

Conducted by Our Readers

1912, November, Pages 12-13

This department has been urgently requested.  It is intended as a clearing-house of ideas – a sort of “give-and get” club, every member of which is privileged to ask for any desired article of needlework with explicit instructions for making, and in her turn to give, as opportunity offers.  Requests for such work as the editor herself is able to supply will not be printed, but the articles asked for shall appear in due season.  Let us all be glad to give as well as get, and thus aid in making The Needlecrafters’ Own Page the most helpful and delightful part of the paper.

 

Snowball Lace

By Mrs. J. T. Bazemor

Make a chain of 65 stitches, turn.

1.  Miss 7, a treble in next, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, forming a space) 18 times, turn.

2.  Chain 5, treble in treble, for the 1^st space, always, 4 more spaces, then in next space make a cluster as follows: (Over, insert hook under 2 chain of last row, draw thread up in a loop as long as a treble) 10 times, take up the thread and draw through all these loops at once, chain 1 to close the cluster tightly, a treble in next treble; then 7 spaces, 1 cluster, 5 spaces, turn.

3.  Make 4 spaces (chain 5, treble in treble for 1^st space), 1 cluster, 1 space, 1 cluster, 5 spaces, 1 cluster, 1 space, 1 cluster, 4 spaces, turn.

4.  * Make 3 spaces, 1 cluster, (1 space, 1 cluster) twice, repeat from *, 3 spaces, turn.

5.  Make 2 spaces, 1 cluster, (1 space, 1 cluster) 7 times, 2 spaces, turn.

6.  * Make 3 spaces, 1 cluster in space, between 2 cluster of last row, (1 space, 1 cluster) twice; repeat from *, 3 spaces, turn.

7.  Same as 3d row, putting the clusters in space between clusters of last row.

8.  Same as 2d row to scallop; after the 5 spaces at end of row do not turn, but make 7 chain, fasten in top of treble at end of 6^th row, (chain 7, miss 2 spaces, fasten) twice, turn; make 14 doubles under each of 2 loops, 7 doubles under next, turn; (chain 7, fasten between 7^th and 8^th doubles of previous filled loop) twice, turn;  14 doubles under 1^st loop, 7 under next, turn; chain 7, fasten in center of last filled loop, turn; 14 doubles under loop just made, 7 doubles under remaining half of next 2 loops down side of scallop.

9.  Chain 2, treble in treble, 19 spaces, turn.

10.  Like 2d row to scallop; (chain 2, a treble in center of 7 doubles at side of loop, chain 2, a treble at top of same loop, where loop below is joined) twice, chain 2, a treble in center of 7 doubles, chain 2, a treble in top of same loop, chain 2, a treble in center of loop on other side, chain 2, a treble where loops join, work down the side like the first, chain 2, and join at end of next row back, turn.

11.  Chain 7, fasten back in 5^th stitch from needle for a picot, chain 2, treble under 2 chain; repeat around scallop, treble in treble, and continue the insertion as in 3d row.

Repeat insertion from 4^th to 10^th rows, inclusive, then repeat the scallop.

The insertion may be made as much wider as desired, and will be found a very attractive strip for a bedspread.  A narrower lace to match may have one row of diamonds in the cluster-stitch, instead of two.  The narrow insertion – of one diamond pattern – makes a very durable and pleasing insertion for towels or pillow-slips.

 

Round Collar or Centerpiece Border in Block-Stitch

By Minnie Apolis

Make a chain the length required.

1.  A double in each stitch of chain.

2, 3.  A double in each double of last row, taking up the back loop of stitch.

4.  Chain 14, turn, a double in each of 10 stitches, *chain 1, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back loop of stitch, repeat from * until you have 4 ribs or ridges, chain 10, miss 8 doubles of the 3d row, fasten in next, 10 doubles in 10 stitches of chain, and repeat from *.  Fasten the last block at end of 3d row with a triple treble, after completing the last ridge, and turn the work.

5.  Chain 14, fasten at corner of block, *chain 8, a triple treble between blocks, where the corners join, chain 8, fasten in corner of next block; repeat across, turn.

6, 7, 8.  Like 1^st, 2d and 3d rows.

9.  Chain 4, a double treble in 1^st stitch, chain 2, 2 doubles trebles in same stitch, * miss 5, shell of 2 double trebles, 2 chain and 2 double trebles in next stitch; repeat from * across, turn.

10.  Chain 4, treble in shell, chain 2, treble in same place, *chain 5, fasten between shells, chain 5, 2 trebles, separated by 2 chain, in next shell; repeat from * across.

11.  Chain 3, fasten under 2 chain, between 2 trebles, chain 4, fasten in same place, chain 3, fasten in same, chain 4, fasten under 2 chain between next 2 trebles, and repeat.

12.  Chain 7, fasten in top of 2d loop or picot, formed by 4 chain; repeat.

13.  Chain 6, * miss 2, a treble in next stitch, chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, chain 2, a treble in double over 2d picot, chain 2, repeat, making a treble over each center loop and 2 on the chain between, each separated by 2 chain.

14.  Chain 3 for a treble, treble in treble and 1 in next stitch, *chain 3, miss 1 space, a double in next and 2 doubles in each of 3 following spaces, chain 3, miss 1 space, a treble in next, treble in treble and treble in following space; repeat from *.

15.  Chain 3, a treble in 1^st of 3 trebles, treble in each of next 2 and 1 in chain, beyond, *chain 4, 5 doubles over 7 doubles, missing 1^st and last, chain 4, 3 doubles over 5 doubles, missing 1^st and last, chain 4, a treble in 4^th stitch of following chain and 2 in 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.

16.  Chain 3, treble in each of 1^st, 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 2 trebles in 2 trebles and 1 in chain, *chain 4, 3 doubles over 5 doubles, missing 1^st and last, chain 4, a treble in 4^th stitch of following chain and 2 in 2 trebles, chain 2, miss 1, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.

17.  Chain 3, a treble in each of 2 trebles, *chain 3, a treble under 2 chain, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 3, miss 1 treble, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches, chain 4, fasten in center of 3 doubles, chain 4, miss 3 of chain, 3 trebles in next 3 stitches; repeat from *.

18.  Chain 3 for 1^st treble, treble in same place and 1 in 2d treble, *chain 6, catch back in 4^th stitch for picot, chain 3, fasten in next space, repeat from * 3 times, chain 6, picot, chain 3, miss 1 treble, 2 trebles in next 2 and 1 in chain, a treble in 4^th of next chain and 2 in 2 trebles; repeat from *, putting 2 trebles with picot-chain between in 2d of the 3 spaces of scallop.

This makes a very handsome border for an embroidered centerpiece, and almost any desired curve can be given it by missing more or less stitches of the inner edge (or neck if a collar) when making the blocks.  If preferred the border may be worked on the linen, but it is the better way to make it first, and apply it; then it can be easily removed for further use should the centerpiece wear out or become shabby while the lace is still good, as frequently happens.  When making a circular border join the ends of the chain, taking care that it is long enough to extend easily around the linen, and allowing a little for taking up, as it is better to have the lace a trifle full than have it draw.  The border completed by the 11^th row is very pretty for a smaller centerpiece, and the edge beyond that, from 12^th to 18t rows, inclusive, makes a very neat edging for doilies or other articles.

  

Hatband in Crochet

By Mrs. Travis Cooper

Use a heavy mercerized crochet-cotton, linen thread of similar size, or crochet-silk, as preferred.  When finished the band should be at least two and a half inches wide, and is very lovely over a black band of silk  or velvet.

Chain 6, join.

1.  Chain 4, 18 doubles trebles (triple trebles, putting thread over 3 times, may be used if one works rather tightly), turn.

(Note:  row 2 is missing from instructions in magazine)

3.  Chain 4, 2 double trebles in next 2 double trebles, (chain 4, 3 double trebles in next 3) 5 times, turn.

4.  Slip-stitch in 2d double treble, 9 doubles under 4 chain; repeat 4 times, chain 5, miss 2 of the last 3 double trebles and fasten in next. Turn.

Repeat from 1^st row.  After making the 2d row in the 3d scallop, fasten the last double treble in the center of the 5^th group (or 2d group counting back) of double trebles in 1^st scallop, turn, and continue the 4^th row of 2d scallop.  Join succeeding scallops in the same manner, each to the 2d one back.

Make the band of the size required and join the ends neatly.  In silk, this pattern makes a very attractive passementeries.

 

A Tatted Collar Bow

By Mrs. C. S. Wieland

These dainty bows may be made of crochet- or purse-silk, in white, black, or any desired color, or of linen or cotton thread, and also of any desired size, as the wheels may be readily enlarged by adding to the number of rings and chains contained in each.  It should also be remarked that, if fine working-material is used, the number of double knots between picots should be increased in order to make the rings of the size designated.

Commence the wheel with a ring of 2 double knots, (1 picot, 3 double knots) 4 times, 1 picot, 2 double knots, close; make a chain of 3 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 4 times, 1 picot, 3 double knots; make another ring as described, joining to preceding ring by 2d picot at the side; repeat, alternating rings and chains, until you have ten or twelve of each.  Join last ring to 1^st by 2d side picot, and last chain to base of 1^st ring.

Make three of these wheels, or two, if no pendant is wanted.  Join the two by middle picots of two consecutive chains, and join the third between them, the middle picot of a chain to middle picot of chain, on 1^st wheel, next below where the two wheels are joined; join middle picot of next chain of third wheel to the picot which connects the 2 chains of upper wheels, and middle picot of next chain of third wheel to middle picot of chain of second wheel next to last joining.

Cut a tab of velvet, satin or taffeta ribbon, about five inches long,  with ends prettily notched, bring one end up through the opening in first wheel and put it down through opening of second wheel, letting the ends, nicely arranged, extend each side.

These wheels are easily made, and may be combined to form many dainty articles, borders, cushion-covers, handbags, and so on.  The center of each wheel, if used for other purpose than described,  may be filled with a “spiderweb,” the thread being carried across from picot to picot until all have been worked in, then knotted together in the center and a ring or other figure woven around the knot. 

 

Knitted Tie

By Miss Taussig

Two balls of crochet-silk, any color desired, are needed, and four steel needles, No. 19 or No. 20.

Cast 20 stitches on each of three needles.  Knit 14 stitches plain, and then commence the neck.

Knit 1 plain, narrow, knit 24, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 24, narrow, knit 1.

Knit 3 rows without narrowing, and again decrease as follows:  Knit 1, narrow, knit 22, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 22, narrow, knit 1.

Knit 3 rows more plain, and narrow again in the same manner, knitting 20 stitches instead of 22 between narrowings.  Continue until you have 32 stitches, 11 on each of two needles and 10 on the other, then knit fifteen inches (or according to size of neck) for the collar band.

To widen for the other end of tie:  Knit 1, pick up a stitch, knit 14, pick up 1, knit 2, pick up 1, knit 14, pick up 1, knit 1.

Knit 3 rows plain, and again increase, thus:  Knit 1, pick up 1, knit 16, pick up 1, knit 2, pick up 1, knit 16, pick up 1, knit 1.

Knit 3 more rows plain, and widen in the same way, continuing until you have again the 60 stitches.  Knit plain until the tie is long enough, or you have finished the second (full-sized) ball. 

 

Border in Coronation-Braid and Crochet

My Alta W. Mann

Miss one link of the braid, and loop the next two, crossing the stems so that a ring is formed of the two loops, fasten the crossing stems closely and securely with single crochet, make a loop of next four links of braid, fastening the stems where the first were fastened with a single, making a small loop within a large one, both fastened together at the same place; chain 7, miss 1 link, and repeat; making a strip the length of lace desired.

2.  Chain 8, 4 trebles under 7 chain of last row, *chain 5, 4 trebles under next 7 chain; repeat from * the length, ending with 5 chain and 1 treble over the double loop.

3.  Chain 7, 3 trebles under 5 chain, *chain 5, 3 trebles under next 5 chain; repeat , ending with a treble in 3d of 8 chain.

4.  Chain 5, miss 2 stitches of last row, a treble in next, *chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble; repeat from * the length and fasten off neatly.  This finished the upper edge.

5.  For the scallop, or lower edge of lace, join the thread between the links of large circle, at the side, *chain 3, fasten between links of small circle, chain 5, fasten between next 2 links of same large circle, chain 5, fasten between links of same small circle, chain 3, fasten over stem at side of same large circle and the next large circle, joining them together, and repeat from * to length of lace.

6.  Chain 11, fasten between links of large circle where 5 chain of last row was fastened; repeat.

7.  Chain 5, a treble in center of 11 chain, chain 2, 1 treble in same stitch, chain 5, fasten in the stitch where 11 chain was fastened  in last row; repeat.

8.  *Chain 3, a treble under 2 chain last made, (chain 2, a treble under same 2 chain) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in the fastening-stitch over the large loop, as before, and repeat.

In each space around scallop make 1 double and 2 trebles, fastening between the scallops.

This completes the pattern, which is quickly worked and effective.  It is best to begin each row at the same end, so as to bring it all right-side out.

 

Insertion of Coronation-Braid and Crochet

By Lola Cochrane 

Fasten between 1^st and 2d links of braid, chain 3 for 1^st treble, 2 more trebles under the same stem, *chain 1, miss 2 links, 3 trebles under next stem; repeat from * until you have the desired length, turn.

2.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under 1 chain, chain 1; repeat.

3.  Buttonhole the stem or end of 1^st link to the stem between 2d and 3d links, fasten in and work across same as 1^st row on opposite side.

4.  Line 2d row.

A very pretty and durable insertion for towels and similar articles.

 

Bedspread Knitted in Stripes, with Border

By Mrs. R. Randall

Cast on 89 stitches, knit across plain.

1.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 8, purl 37, knit 8, purl 10, knit 8.

2.  Knit 26, purl 37, knit 26.

3.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 53, purl 10, Knit 8.

4.  Like 2d row.

5.  Like 3d row.

6.  Knit 44, over, narrow, knit 43.

7.  Like 1^st row.

8.  Knit plain.

9.  Like 1^st row.

10.  Knit 26, purl 10, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 10, knit 26.

11.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 18, purl 17, knit 18, purl 10, knit 8.

12.  Knit 26, purl 10, knit 17, purl 10, knit 26.

13.  Like 11^th row.

14.  Knit 8, twist (as follows: slip off 5 stitches on a third needle, knit 5, then knit the slipped stitches), knit 24, (over, narrow, knit 1) twice, over, narrow, knit 21, twist, knit 8.

15.  Like 1^st row.

16.  Knit plain.

17.  Like 1^st row.

18.  Knit 26, purl 8, knit 6, (over, narrow, knit 1) 3 times, over, narrow, knit 4, purl 8, knit 26.

19.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 16, purl 21, knit 16, purl 10, knit 8.

20.  Knit 26, purl 8, knit 21, purl 8, knit 26.

21.  Like 19^th row.

22.  Knit 38, (over, narrow, knit 1) 4 times , over, narrow, knit 38.

23.  Like 1^st row.

24.  Knit plain.

25.  Like 1^st row.

26.  Knit 26, purl 6, knit 4, (over, narrow, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, knit 4, purl 6, knit 26.

27.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 14, purl 25, knit 14, purl 10, knit 8.

28.  Knit 26,  purl 6, knit 25, purl 6, knit 26.

29.  Like 27^th row.

30.  Knit 8, twist, knit 17, (over, narrow, knit 1) 6 times, over, narrow, knit 16, twist, knit 8.

31.  Like 1^st row.

32.  Knit plain.

33.  Like 1^st row.

34.  Knit 26, purl 4, knit 3, (over, narrow, knit 1) 7 times, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 4, knit 26.

35.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 12, purl 29, knit 12, purl 10, knit 8.

36.  Knit 26, purl 4, knit 29, purl 4, knit 26.

37.  Like 35^th row.

38.  Knit 32, (over, narrow, knit 1) 8 times, over, narrow, knit 31.

39.  Like 1^st row.

40.  Knit plain.

41.  Like 1^st row.

42.  Knit 26, purl 2, knit 2, (over, narrow, knit 1) 9 times, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 2, knit 26.

43.  Knit 8, purl 10, knit 10, purl 33, knit 10, purl 10, knit 8.

44.  Knit 26, purl 2, knit 33, purl 2, knit 26.

45.  Like 43d row.

46.  Knit 8, twist, knit 14, (over, narrow, knit 1) 8 times, over, narrow, knit 13, twist, knit 8.

47.  Like 1^st row.

48.  Knit plain.

49.  Like 1^st row.

50, 51, 52.  Like 34^th, 35^th and 36^th rows.

53.  Like 35^th row.

54.  Knit 35, (over, narrow, knit 1) 6 times, over, narrow, knit 34.

55.  Like 1^st row.

56.  Knit plain.

57.  Like 1^st row.

58.  Knit 26, purl 6, knit 5, (over, narrow, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 6, knit 26.

59, 60.  Like 27^th and 28^th rows.

61.  Like 27^th tow.

62.  Knit 8, twist, knit 21, (over, narrow, knit 1) 4 times, over, narrow, knit 18, twist, knit 8>

63.  Like 1^st row.

64.  Knit plain.

65.  Like 1^st row.

66., 67, 68.  Like 18^th, 19^th, and 20^th rows.

69.  Like 19^th row.

70.  Knit 41, (over, narrow, knit 1) twice, over, narrow, knit 40. 

71.  Like 1^st row.

72.  Knit plain.

73.  Like 1^st row.

74, 75, 76.  Like 10^th, 11^th and 12^th rows.

77.  Like 75^th row.

78.  Knit 8, twist, knit 26, over, narrow, knit 25, twist, knit 8.

79.  Like 1^st row.

80.  Knit plain.

Repeat from 1^st row.

Leaf Border for Bedspread 

Cast on 3 stitches, knit across plain.

1.  Over twice, narrow, knit 1.

2.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1.

3, 7, 9, 13.  Knit plain.

4.  Knit 4, make 1, knit 1.

5.  Knit 1, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.

6.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, make 1,  knit 1.

8.  Knit 8, make 1, knit 1.

10.  Bind off 5, knit 3, make 1, knit 1.

11.  Like 5^th row.

12.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1 in the same stitch, knit 1.

14.  Like 8^th row.

15.  Purl 1, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.

16.  Knit 3, (purl 1, knit 2) 3 times, make 1, knit 1.

17.  Purl 2, knit 12.

18.  Knit 13, make 1, knit 1.

19.  Knit 1, purl 2, knit 12.

20.  Bind off 5, pick up 1, knit 8, make 1, knit 1.

21.  Knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.

22.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 4, make 1, knit 1.

23.  Purl 1, * knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, pearl 2, knit 9.

24.  Knit 11, purl 7, make 1, knit 1.

25.  Purl 2, *knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.

26.  Knit 3, purl 1, (knit 2, purl 1) twice, knit 4, purl 9, *knit 1, make 1, knit 1.

27.  Knit 1, purl 2, *knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 2, knit 12.

28.  Knit 14, purl 11, knit 2, make 1, knit 1.

(Note:  no directions for row 29 in magazine)

30.  Bind off 5, knit 8, purl 11, knit 2, purl 1, make 1, knit 1.

31.  Knit 1, over, narrow, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl, 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) twice, knit 1.

32.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 9, knit 2, *purl 2, make 1, knit 1.

33.  (Over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 5, narrow, purl 2, knit 9.

34.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3, make 1, knit 1.

35.  Knit 1, (over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 3, narrow, purl 2, knit 2, (over twice, narrow) 3 times, knit 1.

36.  Knit 3, (purl 1, knit 2) twice, purl 1, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, *purl 4, make 1, knit 1.

37.  Slip 1, knit 1, (over, narrow) twice, purl 2, *slip and bind, knit 1, narrow, purl 2, knit 12.

38.  Knit 14, purl 2, knit 3, purl 5, knit 1.

39.  Like 37^th row to *; knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 12.

40.  Bind off 5, pick up 1, knit 11, pick up 1, purl 5, knit 1.

41.  Like 37^th to *; finish like 21^st row.

42.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

43.  Like 37^th row to *; like 23d from *.

44.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

45.  Like 37^th to *; like 25^th from star.

46.  Like 26^th to *; knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

47.  Like 37^th to *; like 27^th from *.

48.  Knit 14, purl 11, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

49.  Like 37^th to *; knit 11, purl 3, knit 12.

50.  Bind off 5, knit 8, purl 11, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

51.  Like 37^th to *; like 31^st from *.

52.  Like 32^nd to *; purl 5, knit 1.

53.  Like 37^th to *; like 33d from *.

54.  Knit 11, purl 7, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1.

55.  Like 37^th to *; like 35^th from *.

56.  Like 36^th to *; purl 5, knit 1.

57, 58, 59, 60.  Like 37^th, 38^th 39^th and 40^th rows.

Repeat the straight lace from 41^st row until you have a strip as long as required for one side of your spread.  Four strips are required for the border.  When ready to mitre the corner, reverse the order, narrowing (instead of widening by making a stitch) at beginning of every odd row.  Do this by slipping and binding, taking care to keep the remainder of the pattern.  Having knitted the border to this point, no directions will be necessary for making this decrease.  Begin the next strip of border as before, and narrow off again to a point.  Join the mitred corners evenly, matching the pattern.

If preferred one may, of course, knit the border straight and full it around the corners when sewing on; but the mitred corners are neater.

Try crochet-cord for knitted or crocheted bedspreads.  Knitting cotton, so commonly used, is very soft, and when the spread is laundered it stretches badly.  Crochet-cord is little if any more expensive, and serves the purpose admirably.

Some Pretty Things in Tatting

1912, November, page 4 

Tatted Rose-and-Star Doily

By Mrs. M. M. Stoddard

Commence in the center of the star with a ring of 2 double knots, 1 picot, (3 double knots, 1 picot) five times, 1 double knot, close and tie.  Make a ring of 3 double knots, 1 picot, (4 double knots, 1 picot) twice, 3 double knots, close; *a chain of 5 double knots, 1 picot, 5 double knots; a ring of 3 double knots, join to last picot of preceding ring, and finish ring as before: make a chain like preceding; another ring, joining to last ring as directed; a chain of 3 double knots; a ring of double knots, join to last picot of previous ring, (5 double knots, 1 picot) twice, 3 double knots, close; chain of 3 double knots; a ring like the 1^st, joining to preceding by side picot; 5 double knots, join to last long chain made, 5 double knots; another ring, as before; again the chain, joining to chain opposite; another ring; 12 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 12 double knots’ a ring like 1^st, joining to middle picot of last ring made; repeat from * until you have completed six points, joining last ring of last point to 1^st of 1^st point by middle picot, and last long chain at base of 1^st ring.  This completes the star, of which seven are required to form the doily.  Place one in the center and join the others around it by the middle picot of 4thring in each point; then join the outside stars, each to the preceding and last to 1^st in the same way, leaving three free points at the edge.  Join with shuttle, or with needle and thread, as is easiest.

Fill each space between stars with a rose made as follows:  Commence in the center with a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, close; make 2 double knots, (1 picot, 3 double knots) 3 times, join to picot at top of ring, (3 double knots, 1 picot) three times, 1 double knot, close and tie.  Around the center make a ring of 7 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 7 double knots, close; turn, make 9 double knots, draw through same picot, 9 double knots, thus making a double ring; make a chain of 2 double knots, 1 picot, (3 double knots, 1 picot) twice, 2 double knots; make another double ring as before, joining to next picot of center, and repeat until you have 8 rings and chains alternating, joining a ring at top and bottom of center ring and three on each side.  Join to the points of the stars either as you work, or with needle and thread, which can be neatly done if care is taken.  If joined as you work, join a chain by 2 picots to 2d and 3d rings of point in 1^st outer star, next chain to 2 corresponding rings  of point in next outer star, next chain to 2 rings of next point in same star, miss a chain, join next to 2 rings of point in center star, next to 2 rings in next point of center star, miss a chain, and join next to 2 rings in point of 1^st star, preceding the point with which you started.

The stars and roses may be combined to form a variety of pleasing designs.

Child’s Tatted Bonnet

By Jennie Johnson

The wheel in center of crown is made first.  Make 1 double knot, 1 small picot, 8 double knots, (1 picot, 4 double knots) twice, 1 picot, 9 double knots, close; leave about ½ inch thread, make a ring of 7 double knots, 1 medium-long picot, (6 double knots, 1 picot0 3 times, 7 double knots, close; leave about 3/8 inch of thread and make another ring in the same way, joining to preceding by side picot; leave ½ inch thread and make another ring of 9 double knots, picot, (4 double knots, picot) twice, 9 double knots, joining this also to preceding ring by side picot.  Continue in this way until you have 8 of the smaller rings surrounded by 16 large ones.  After making the last 2 large rings, join the thread to the 1^st small picot made in 1^st ring, and fasten off neatly.

2.  Make a ring of (10 double knots, picot) 3 times, 10 double knots, close; fasten to a picot of ring in last row, leave a short space of thread, make another ring in same way, joining to preceding by side picot, draw thread through 1^st picot of following ring in last row, make another ring, joining to preceding as directed, join to next picot of same ring, and so continue around, making 32 rings in the row.  Join last to 1^st, draw through picot, and fasten off.

3.  Make (10 double knots, picot) 3 times, 10 double knots, close, joining by middle picot to middle picot of ring in last row; turn, leave about ¼ inch of thread, make a ring of 7 double knots, picot, (9 double knots, picot) twice, 7 double knots, close; repeat, alternating the rings as described, and joining each to the preceding.  In the outside row of this insertion every 4^th ring is made thus: 7 double knots, picot, (6 double knots, picot) 3 times, 7 double knots, close.

4.  Like 3d row, joining 2 rings to every 4^th ring of 3d row.

5.  The front portion of the cap is formed of sic large wheels, the same as made for the crown, joined to one another by the picots of 3 rings, and to the crown by picots of 4 rings.  One ring in the crown is left between each 2 wheels.  The spaces between the wheels, at the other edge, are filled by couplets of large rings made thus: 7 double knots, picot, (9double knots, picot) twice, 7 double knots, close; make another ring just the same and make 6 more couplets.

6.  The cap is finished by two double rows of rings all around it, as follows; Make a ring of 10 double knots, join to an outside ring of cap, 10 double knots, close; leave ½ inch, make a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 7 double knots, close; the small rings are not joined to one another at the side, but the large ones are, by 1^st side picot.  A small ring is joined to every loose ring of the wheels and crown, and to each couplet 3 are joined, 1 to each ring and 1 between rings.  In order to turn the corner squarely, make a large ring as usual after the small one, then, another large ring and another, leaving about 3/8 inch of thread between, before making the next small ring.

7.  Same as 5^th row, joining each small ring to middle picot of large ring in last row.  At the corner make an extra ring in the center and 1 at each side.

The open spaces in center of wheels, and between wheels across the front, are filled with tiny spiderwebs, which add much to the appearance of the cap and are little work.  Carry the thread across from picot to picot, then knot all together in center of space and weave three or four times around the knot.

Run narrow ribbon in and out between small and large wheels of last two rows, line the cap with silk to match, and add ties and side bows of wider ribbon of the same color.

A Collar of Lace and Tatting

By Jennie Johnson

Sewing-silk was used for the collar, but thread of any grade preferred may be substituted in making edgings or borders.  Either the narrow or wide cloverleaf pattern is very dainty for trimming babies’ garments, handkerchiefs, and other fine, small articles.

Tie ends of thread from the two shuttles – or the spool and one shuttle – together and trim closely.

1.  Commencing with the cloverleaf, make a ring of (5 double knots, 1 picot) 3 times, 5 double knots, close; another ring of 5 double knots, join to last picot of preceding ring, (6 double knots, picot) twice, 5 double knots, close; another ring like 1^st, joining to side picot of 2d ring; chain of 8 double knots; ring of 6 double knots, join to last picot in last ring of cloverleaf, 6 double knots, picot, 6 double knots, close; make another ring like the one just made, close together; now make a long chain of 8 double knots, (picot, 8 double knots) twice, join to 1^st picot in last ring made; make another long chain like preceding, t hen a ring of 6 double knots, picot, 6 double knots, join to same picot 1^st long chain was joined to, 6 double knots, close; make another ring in same way, close to last, joining to the picot of ring that was joined to the cloverleaf, then 8 double knots, and continue with 2d cloverleaf, joining 1^st ring by side picot to preceding ring.  Repeat to length desired.
2.  Make the smaller cloverleaf as follows: (3 double knots, picot) 3 times, 3 double knots, close; 3 double knots, fasten to last picot of preceding ring, (4 double knots, fasten to last picot of preceding ring, (4 double knots, picot) twice, 3 double knots, close; make 3d ring like 1^st, joining to side picot of 2d ring, and by middle picot of 2d ring to 2d picot of long chain in preceding row; make a chain of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, and repeat, joining 1^st ring of 2d cloverleaf by middle picot to middle picot of last ring of preceding cloverleaf.
3.  Make a small cloverleaf as directed, joining by middle picot of 2d ring to picot of chain in last row; then, if the lace is to be attached to a band of insertion, as in the model, make the chain of 4 double knots, (1 long picot, 2 double knots) twice, picot, 4 double knots; repeat.


A Dainty Cushion-Cover in Tatting

By Mrs. M. M. Stoddard

Commence in the center of the square medallion with a four-ring figure, as follows: (2 double knots, 1 picot) 7 times, 2 double knots, close; make 3 more rings in same way, joining each to preceding by 1^st side picot, and last to 1^st in same way.  Fasten off neatly and securely.

2.  Make 3 rings as directed, joining each by 1^st side picot to preceding, to form a cloverleaf, and joining the 2d ring by middle picot to the 3d picot of a center ring; make a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 11 times, 2 double knots; another cloverleaf, joining 1^st ring by middle picot to middle picot of last ring in preceding cloverleaf, and 2d ring by middle picot to 5^th picot of same center ring;  repeat around, making 8 alternating cloverleaves and chains, joining each 2 cloverleaves as directed to a center ring, last cloverleaf to 1^st, and last chain to base of 1^st cloverleaf.  This completes a very pretty wheel, which may be used in a variety of ways.
3.  *Make a ring of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 5 times, 2 double knots, close; make a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 3 times, 2 double knots; a ring of 6 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 6 double knots, close; make a chain like the last; again a ring, joining to next picot of center ring, and repeat until you have joined 5 rings, one to each picot of 1^st ring made; make a chain and join to base of 1^st ring, * turn; make a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 5 times, 2 double knots, a ring of 7 double knots, join to middle picot of last short chain, 7 double knots, close; repeat rings and chains, joining each ring to middle picot of the short chain in last row, and last chain where 1^st started, at base of figure; make a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 9 times, 2 double knots; a ring of 11 double knots, 1 picot, 11 double knots, close; a ring of 11 double knots, join to middle picot of chain in center wheel, 11 double knots, close; a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot0 5 times, 2 double knots; repeat from * to *; make a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 8 times, 2 double knots, join to middle picot of next chain of center wheel, make another chain like the last, again repeat from * to *, joining the 1^st of these side figures by 1^st picot of 2d chain to 1^st picot of chain in corner figure, and 2d to 1^st side figure by middle picot of 2d chain.  Make a chain of (1 picot, 2 double knots) 5 times, ,a ring of 11 double knots, join to next chain of center wheel, 11 double knots, close; another ring of 11 double knots, 1 picot, 11 double knots; a chain of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 9 times, 2 double knots; repeat the corner figure, again  make the chain of 9 picots, each separated by 2 double knots, a ring of 11 double knots, join to picot of ring opposite, 11 double knots, close; another ring, joining to picot of same chain as the last (opposite) ring, thus making 4 of the large rings in a group, and continue until the square is completed, joining last long chain to base of 1^st corner figure, and connecting all the figures as directed.     
4.  To join the squares, make a wheel as at first described; make a cloverleaf, then a chain, exactly as for the wheel; repeat until you have 7 of each, joining each cloverleaf to the preceding by middle picot of 1^st and last rings; after the 7^th chain make a ring of 3 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) twice, join to middle picot of 2d ring in last cloverleaf (2 double knots, 1 pciot0 4 times, 3 double knots, close; make a chain as before, a cloverleaf, joining 1^st ring by middle picot to 5^th picot of single ring last made, and by middle picot of 2d ring to same picot in 2d ring of cloverleaf opposite, last made.  Continue alternating the chains and rings to the end, which finish with the single ring and chain each side.  Join each of these chains to a chain fot eh center ring, and each chain along the side to a chain of the square or corner medallion, so that the work will lie smoothly.  Fill the little space between the center wheel and inner corner of each medallion with a cloverleaf, each ring of 11 double knots, join to chain of the oblong section, 11 double knots, close; again, 11 double knots, join to chain of center wheel, 11 double knots, close; make another ring, joining to chain of next oblong section, close, and join at the base to middle chain of corner figure in medallion.
By using coarse thread, this cover could be enlarged sufficiently to make a very pretty top for a sofa-pillow.  The medallions make lovely insets for various purposes, as do the oblong sections.

Some Dainty Gifts Made with a Shuttle by Edith Bradley

(January, 1912, page 4)

There is no prettier or more durable work than tatting.  Insets fashioned in this manner have the appearance of reticella lace, the double knots, evenly ranged, imitating very closely the buttonholed bars which are distinctive of the latter and other needlepoint laces.  Many who are expert in different varieties of needlecraft have the idea that tatting is difficult to do, but in this they are mistaken.  It is among the very simplest of arts, once the knack of making the knot is caught, and that comes readily with a little practice.
 

The wheels and medallions forming the jabot which is composed entirely of tatting may be utilized as insets, in making yokes, collars, or for any desired purpose.  Using No. 36 thread, make first the 4-ring figures in the center of medallion, thus:  make a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, close; repeat until you have 4 rings, worked as closely together as possible, tie and cut thread.  Make four of these figures for each medallion.
 
Now, using both threads, join to a picot of one of the rings, make 3 double knots, turning so the purled edge is toward you, then with one thread make a ring of 2 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 5 times, close; again turning work downward make a chain of 3 double knots, join to picot of next ring in same figure, 3 double knots, a ring as before, joining to preceding by 1^st picot at side (which should be a trifle longer than the 3 picots at top of ring), and continue until you have joined to one side of each 4-ring figure.  After the last joining, having made the 3 double knots and ring, work around the end with (chain of 6 double knots, 1 ring, joined to preceding) 3 times, 3 double knots, join to picot of 1^st ring in 4th figure, and continue up side of medallion, rounding the opposite end as described, and joining last 3 chain to the picot where 1^st 3 chain started.  A very pretty band or trimming is made by continuing the 4-ring figure and the surrounding edge to the length required.

Three of the medallions are required for the tab, joined by picot of 2d ring at each side, leaving two rings at the top to be joined to the lower wheel.
 
Make wheels as follows: 1. Commence in the center with a ring of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots, close; make four more rings, drawing all closely together in the center, tie and cut thread.
 
2.  Make a ring of 4 double knots, 7 picots with 2 double knots between, 4 double knots, close; make a chain of 4 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 4 double knots; make a ring like the last, joining to preceding by 1^st picot at side; a chain of 7 double knots; repeat around, joining every other chain to a picot of center, and last ring to 1^st by side picot, also join last chain to base of 1^st ring.

3.  Join thread to picot connecting two  rings of last row, make 2 double knots, (1 picot, 2 double knots) 13 times, join between next 2 rings; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st chain started.
 
This completes the wheel, pretty and useful for many purposes.  Make three more in the same way, joining by picot of 2 chains, leaving a free chain in the center or inner side and five outside.  To fill the space in center, make first a four-ring figure as described for the center of medallions; fasten to a picot of ring, make a chain of 2 double knots, (1picot, 2 double knots) 5 times, join to picot of next ring, and repeat three times.  Join each chain at middle picot to a picot of the free chain in wheel.
 
The jabot may be mounted over plaited lawn, if desired, the latter being edged with rings and chains such as surround the four-ring figures of medallion.
 

A very pretty jabot with tatted edge and insets is made as follows: Take a square of handkerchief linen seven by seven inches, allowing also for a one-fourth-inch hem.  Cut off one corner in order to “square” the top of the jabot, which is to be folded or plaited into a narrow band.  Draw threads one half inch from the edge along three sides, making a space about one eighth inch wide, and work with latter-hemstitch, that is, hemstitch both edges, taking up the same threads each side, so as to form tiny bars across the space.
 
In each corner, about one fourth inch from the hem, place an inset of tatting, made thus: Using No. 50 thread and two shuttles (or drawing the second thread from the spool, if you prefer),  make a chain of 1 double knot, 1 very small picot, 4 double knots; make a ring of (3 double knots, 1 picot) 7 times, 3 double knots, close; chain of 4 double knots; ring of 3 double knots, join to last picot of preceding ring, (3 double knots, 1 picot) 8 times, 3 double knots, close; chain of 4 double knots; another ring like 1^st, joining by 1^st picot to preceding ring; a chain of 4 double knots, join to very small picot first made.  This completes one clover-leaf or corner.  Make a chain of 8 double knots; a ring of 6 double knots, (1 very small picot, 6 double knots) 3 times, close (this for the center ring); 8 double knots; 1 very small picot, 4 double knots, then proceed with second cloverleaf, joining 3d picot of 1^st ring to 5^th picot of last ring of preceding leaf or corner.  After last ring of this cloverleaf make 4 double knots, join to very small picot last made, 8 double knots, join to picot of center ring, and continue until you have reached the point where you began, when tie and cut thread.  If preferred, the center ring may be made first; then 8 double knots, 1 very small picot, 4 double knots, and so on, joining 8 double knots at last to base of center ring.
 
Baste these medallions neatly in place, buttonhole closely all around, catching into every picot on outer edge of rings, and cut the linen carefully from beneath.  This may be done before buttonholing, as follows: Having basted the medallion on, make a tiny aperture in the center of the little square of linen covered and cut from that to each corner; turn back these points of linen, baste smoothly, and buttonhole over the doubled edge.  This makes neat work and prevents fraying or pulling out of the buttonholing.
 
For the edge of the jabot make a ring of 4 double knots, (1 picot, 4 double knots) 3 times, close; make a chain of 7 double knots, 1 picot, 7 double knots; again a ring like 1^st, joining to preceding by side picot, which should be a trifle longer than usual.  Continue in this way, alternating rings and chains, until you have the length desired.   Sew to the jabot by running needle through the hem and catching into each picot.  It makes a very pretty little trimming for handkerchiefs and other small articles.
 
Plait the jabot in one wide plait, folding the side corners from outside to center so that they meet at the top, and put into a narrow binding.  The small bow may be added or dispensed with, as preferred.  Take a piece of the linen two inches wide and four inches long, allowing an extra half inch each way for the hem, which is drawn and hem-stitched as described.  Finish with the tatted edging, and form into a bow by plaiting the center and covering with a narrow band of the linen.
 
The stock-collar presented might be very attractively made of silk, black, white or of a color matching the gown or waist with which it is to be worn.  The model is of No. 40 thread, and of simple but pleasing design.

1.        Make a ring of 10 double knots, 1 very small picot (for drawing the joinings close together), 10 double knots, close; chain of 10 double knots, 1 very small picot, 10 double knots; a ring of 10 double knots, join to picot of previous ring, 10 double knots, close; another ring like 1^st, as close to the last ring as possible to make it.  Repeat to the length desire for collar.

2.       Make a ring of 10 double knots, join to picot between 2 rings of last row; chain of 10 double knits, picot, 10 double knots; another ring, joining to same picot as before; another ring, close to this, joining between next 2 rings of last row; repeat to end of row, alternating the two rings, both joined to picot between 2 rings of previous row, forming groups of 4 rings, and the chains.

3.       Like 1^st row, joining the picot of each chain to picot of chain in 2d row.

4.       Same as 3d row, working on the lower side of 1^st row, or edge of collar,

5.  Like 2d row, save that each ring is composed of 8 double knits, instead of 10 double knots on each side of the joining picot.  This row is at the upper edge of collar.

If desired, narrow velvet ribbon, or silk ribbon, may be run in and out the spaces formed by the chains joining the 2d and 3d rows, and the 5^th and 1^st.

This collar is made in what is sometimes called “modern tatting,” the picots, save such as are required for joining, being eliminated.  Cuffs may be made to match the collar, and the design is a very effective one for bands or insertions, which may be of any width – having the rings of one size, instead of making one row of smaller ones as directed for the collar.  Made of rather coarse linen thread, such tatting is a very attractive and modish trimming for many articles of wearing-apparel and household linen.  The thread may be had in natural or flax-color (gray) and cream-color, or unbleached, as well as pure white; and while such trimmings are very pleasing made in the finer threads for use on lightweight materials, those of the heave threads are in high favor at present, being used with excellent effect upon pongee and similar silks as well as white or colored linens.  For silk gowns, too, tatting made of purse- or crochet-silk is well liked.

As an insertion to be set above the hem-stitched hem of dresser- or sideboard-scarf, pillow-slips, towels, and other articles of household use requiring a finish which shall be both durable and decorative, nothing could be better.

A pretty handkerchief is always received with favor, and there is no neater trimming for such purpose than tatting.  To make the dainty handkerchief illustrated you will require a twelve-inch square of fine handkerchief-linen and a spool of No. 100 thread.  Draw threads for a hem one half inch wide, making the space about one eighth inch wide, and one and one-half inches from the top or inner edge of hem draw threads for another row of hemstitching like first, cutting threads and turning them under at the edge of hem.  Use the ladder-hemstitch, formed by taking the same threads at each stitch on both sides of the space.

In the little square at each corner, outlined by the hemstitching, insert a wheel made as follows: Make a ring of 1 double knot, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 11 times, 1 double knot, close, tand cut thread.  Make a ring of 6 double knots, join to picot of center ring, 6 double knots, close; leave one fourth inch thread, make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, close; again leave one fourth inch thread, make a small ring like 1^st, joining to next picot of center, and continue until you have 12 small and 12 large rings, joining the latter by 1^st picot at side.  Join also last to 1^st ring, tie and cut thread.  Baste the wheels in place, buttonhole the edge closely and cut the linen from beneath.  Use a rather fine mercerized cotton or embroidery-floss for the buttonholing.

Edge the hem with a row of rings, each of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 5 times, 4 double knots, close; join the rings by 1^st side picot, leaving sufficient thread between to keep the line of rings smooth and straight.  Whip threads between rings to edge of handkerchief.

No collection of tatted gifts would be complete unless containing a bonbon doily, which may also serve as a cover for a round toilet-cushion – or a square one, for that matter, the sides of the cover being brought down between the corners of the cushion.  Tatting is particularly serviceable for such purpose, since the work is usually so close that pinholes in the cushion are not noticeable, while the pins are readily admitted.  The cushion itself is easily made of satin, any desired color, and will add to the value of the gift.  A round cushion may have two of the tatted circles, laced together at the edge by means of narrow ribbon run in and out the last row of rings.

Using No. 24 thread, commence in the center of the doily.
1.       Make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, close: make 3 more of these rings, joining each to the preceding by 1^st picot at side, and last ring to 1^st in like manner.   Tie and cut thread.

2.       Make a ring of 2 double knots, picot, 2 double knots, join to 3d picot of center ring, 2 double knots, 1 picot, 2 double knots, close; leave one fourth inch thread, make a ring exactly as described for the center, leave one fourth inch thread, make a small ring same as before, joining to 4^th or middle picot of same center ring, leave space of thread, make a large ring like preceding, joining to the latter by 1^st picot at side, again make a small ring (always leaving same space of thread between large and small rings), join to 5^th picot of same center ring, make a large ring, joining to preceding large ring as before, make a small ring of (2 double knots, 1 picot) 3 times, 2 double knots, close, a large ring, joining as before, and repeat from beginning of row, joining 3 small rings to each of the center rings, making a free or unjoined ring between the groups, and alternating with the large rings of outer row; there will be sixteen rings in each size.  The wheel thus formed makes a lovely medallion for many purposes, especially if made of finer thread.

3.       Make a ring of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 4 times, 4 double knots, close; a 2d ring in same way, but with 7 picots, joining by 1^st picot to last picot of preceding ring, and by middle picot to middle picot of large ring in preceding row; make a 3d ring like 1^st, joining to 2d ring by 1^st picot at side; make a chain of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 10 times, 4 double knots; repeat, joining 1^st ring of each cloverleaf by middle picot to middle picot of last ring of preceding cloverleaf.  This, too, makes a pretty medallion, or may be used as a tumbler-doily.

4.  Make a small ring like those in 2d row, joining to 3d picot of a chain in preceding row; make a large ring as in 2d row; leaving the space of thread as in that row, another small ring, joining to 6^th or middle picot of chain; a large ring, joining to preceding large ring by 1^st side picot; a small ring, joining to 9^th picot of chain; a large ring, joining to preceding ring as directed.   Repeat around, joining 3 small rings over each chain, and alternating them with the large rings.  This row completes yet another doily.

5.       Same as 2d row, joining a small ring to middle picot of each large ring in previous row.
By repeating the last two rows, joining 2 small rings over a large one, as it is necessary to keep the work flat and smooth, the doily may be made as large as required.  Indeed, a very handsome luncheon-set, consisting of doilies of various sizes, with centerpieces to match, is easily fashioned by one at all accustomed to tatting.  If an oval centerpiece is wanted, simply add to the number of rings in the center, arranging them in oval rather than circular form, and working around them as directed, widening at the ends and continuing without increasing along the sides.

6.  For the border, either cut and tie thread at end of last row or draw the thread up at the back and through a picot at top of large ring.    Make a chain of 4 double knots, 1 picot, (2 double knots, 1 picot) 6 times, 4 double knots, join to middle picot of next ring; repeat around and fasten off neatly.

As suggested, this makes a beautiful and useful doily for a bonbon-dish, as it protects the polished wood of the table, while allowing it to show through the lacelike texture.