Table-Cover in Ribbon Embroidery

By Mrs. T. D. MacBey

1913 08 page 6 

The name of this class of needlework – also called rococo-embroider – indicates its character.  Inn it ribbons of different widths and colors are used in place of embroidery-silks, or in conjunction with them, since rope-silk or purse-silk is employed in outlining stems, scrolls, baskets, and other portions of a design for which even the narrowest ribbon is not quite suitable.

Ribbon-embroidery would be far more in vogue than it is, were there not a wrong impression concerning it.  Those who know it, consider it one of the most important forms of decorative needlework, and use it constantly for small and large pieces of every description; there are many others, however, who believe it to be tedious or difficult to do, and impractical when done, because it cannot be laundered in a regular way.  Answering the first objection, it is of course obvious that the work may be very much more quickly accomplished than the ordinary colored embroidery, since an entire flower can be fashioned with less than a dozen movements of the needle at most; while all who have worked with embroidery-silks know the many stitches that are required to obtain the same effect; hence the advantage is largely in favor of ribbon-work when time is a consideration.  It “goes” so quickly that one has no thought of tiring of it before even a large piece of work is accomplished.  Think of making an entire petal or leaf with a single stitch, and you may easily imagine the fascination the work possesses for needlecrafters who have learned by experience how easy it is and how rapidly done – particularly in these “rushing” times of ours.

As for laundering, ribbon-embroidery may be sent to a professional cleanser and come out looking like new many times; or one may use gasoline and wash it at home, keeping the fluid always away from a room in which is artificial light or fire.  The better plan is to take it out-of-doors in a large bowl, or any vessel corresponding in size to the article to be washed, placing this in a pan of hot water; then wash the work by “sousing” it in the fluid, lifting up and down, and squeezing lightly with the hands.  Change the supply if the first becomes discolored or dirty, and finally hang the work in the open air where the odor will quickly depart.

For dress-garnitures of every sort there is nothing more lovely than ribbon-embroidery.  It may be done on bands of net and applied, or on the garment itself.  Once undertaken, and the possibilities of the art discovered, many new uses will be found for it.

Three widths of ribbon are generally employed, the very narrow for tiniest flowers, a half-inch width for larger ones, and one about five-eighths or three-fourths inch, the latter, having one edge picoted and the other plain, being intended for the petals of carnations and similar blossoms.  The plain edge is drawn up, the picots serving to represent the serrate edge of the flower-petals.  Ribbons of crepelike texture, shaded from one edge to the other, are especially pretty for blossoms such as sweet-peas; but any ribbon may be used.

While the gathered, or picot-edge ribbon, must necessarily be caught in place (indicated by the stamped or traced outlines of the design) on the surface, using a strand of filo-silk as nearly as possible of the same shade, the usual method of using this material is exactly the same as that for embroidery-silks; they are threaded into a needle and the stitch is taken through the foundation.  Choose a needle large enough to make an opening through which the ribbon will follow easily, and use the latter in short lengths, that it may not become worn or frayed in the least.  It is a good plan to smooth it out between thumb and finger after each stitch.  And do not draw it through tightly – thus giving a flat appearance, which is of all things to be avoided.  Each petal should have the raised, natural appearance of the flower the worker is copying, so far as possible to give it.  No padding is necessary, although this is sometimes recommended.  Run the handle of a stiletto or some other small, smooth object under the ribbon after the stitch has been taken, shaping the petal.  The ribbon puffs very easily, since it emerges and is again drawn through a small aperture at base and tip of petal.

The decoration of the table-cover may properly be classed as a sweet-pea design, since that flower is used throughout save at each corner, where appear sprays of violets, tied with narrow ribbons.  The foundation is a fancy moire, green in tone and shading from light to dark.  Any other material may be selected, a heavy gray linen being very appropriate.  The cover is one yard square without the border, which is three and one-half inches deep.

The violet petals are of narrow violet ribbon, the leaves of narrow green ribbon, and the stems of heavy green silk, in outline-stitch.  If preferred, the tiny leaves may be in solid embroidery.  For the violets bring the needle up at the center and put it down at the tip of petal, repeating until the five or six are formed, afterward filling the center with a French knot in heavy silk.  Baste the ribbon knots and streamers lightly in place and catch securely with sewing- or filo-silk of the same tint.  These ribbons are sometimes “couched,” that is, held in place by a short stitch crossing them at intervals of an inch or more, sometimes less.

For the sweet-peas but three or at most, four “stitches,” are employed.  The two – or one – in the center are first taken, then that on each side, spreading from the base.  The center petals are smaller and shorter.  The natural flower will help one very much in copying – as will an illustration from a seed-catalogue, even.  The flowers are of various colors, and combinations of colors, pink, blue, violet, and so on through the range of sweet-pea tintings.  The stems and tendrils are outlined with brown and green, the scrolls, vases and baskets done in the same stitch.

Two rows of hemstitching are carried around the square or, rather, the inner row does this, while the outer row, five inches from the first, extends from basket to basket, at each corner.  This portion of the work may be omitted at pleasure.

As has been intimated, it is practically impossible to fail of pleasing effect with this work, if the beginner is at all painstaking.  Commencing first with a small piece, perhaps a sachet or handkerchief-case, practise with a simple design – the daisy is easily worked in ribbon and readily obtained.  Each stitch forms a petal, and the center of the flower may be filled with French-knots.  There is no prettier decoration for any sort of fancy articles, such as are used for Christmas gifts; and the wise woman who enjoys making pretty things, and has comparatively little time at her disposal, will not fail to add ribbon-embroidery to her list of accomplishments.

The border is of heavy mercerized crochet-cotton, crochet-silk, or linen thread No. 25; the latter has a lustre which is lasting, and a crispness when worked that renders it very effective.  For the straight lace begin with a chain of 50 stitches, turn.

1.     Miss 13, 3 doubles in next 3 stitches, (chain 5, miss 5, 3 doubles) 3 times, chain 5, miss 5, 4 trebles, turn.

2.    Chain 11, miss 8 of chain , 3 trebles in next 3 stitches and 1 in 1^st of 4 trebles,*chain 5, a treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 4 times, turn.

3.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5) 3 times, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, *chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, turn.

4.    Like 2d row to *; (chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles, and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 3 times, turn.

5.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5) twice, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, a double under next chain) twice, 3 trebles and 1 double under same chain; like 3d row from *.

6.    Like 2d row to *; chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, (chain 5, shell of 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double under next chain) twice, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) twice, turn.

7.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) twice, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, chain 5, 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double under next chain and 1 in 1^st of 4 trebles, turn.

8.    Chain 5, miss 3 trebles, treble in treble and 3 under chain. *(chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 3 times, turn.

9.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) 3 times, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, fasten in 5 chain, chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, turn.

10.  Like 8^th row to *; chain 5, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 4 times, turn.

11.  Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) 4 times, 4 trebles in space between 2 treble groups of last row, turn.

Repeat from 2drow for the straight lace.  When the corner is reached, repeat 2d and 3d rows of the pattern as usual.

4.  Like 4^th row of pattern, ending with (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) twice, turn.

5.  Chain 7, 3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5, 4 trebles, and continue like 5^th row of pattern.

6.  Like 6^th across diamond, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

7.  Chain 7, treble in treble and 3 under chain, and continue like 7^th row.

8.  Like 8^th across diamond, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

9.  Chain 7, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, continue same as 9^th row.

10.  Like 10^th, ending with the 2d group of 4 trebles, turn.

11.  Chain 7, 4 trebles in space between 2 groups of last row, turn.

12.  Like 2d row to *; chain 5, a treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, 3 doubles in next loop, turn.

13.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under 5 chain and treble in treble, continue across diamond as in 3d row.

14.  Like 4^th across diamond; after last 4 trebles, chain 5, 3 doubles in loop (on the diamond last made, at beginning of 7^th row), turn

15.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, work across diamond as in 5^th row.

16.  Work across diamond as in 6^th row, and after last 4 trebles in loop chain 5 and make 3 doubles in loop (at beginning of 5^th row in last point), turn.

17.  Chain 5, 3 doubles under chain last made, chain 5, miss 3 trebles, treble in treble and 3 under chain, and work across as in 7^th row.

18.  Like 9^th row, putting last 3 doubles in loop at beginning of 3drow in previous point.

19, 20, 21.  Like 9^th, 10^th, and 11^th rows, inclusive.

Finish the outer edge as follows:  After the last treble at end of 11^th row, chain 3, fasten in the space where the 4 trebles were made, *chain 3, and under the loop of 5 chain following make (2 doubles, picot of 5 chain) twice, 2 doubles under same chain, chain 3, fasten in the treble in which treble of preceding row was made, repeat fro *, then in the loop at point put (2 doubles, picot) 3 times, 2 doubles, *chain 3, fasten in top of treble next row back, chain 3, (2 doubles, picot) twice, 2 doubles, all in next loop, repeat from last *, then repeat the row.

 This is a very effective border for tea-cloths and similar articles, if made in heavy thread, and in finer thread for any trimming.

(Mrs. MacBey will answer all inquiries in regard to her work materials, samples, etc., if a self-addressed, stamped envelope is enclosed.)

A Group of Attractive Doilies in Crochet

August, 1913
page 2

Never, even in the earlier days when it possessed the charm of novelty and everybody was eager to “learn the stitch,” was crochet-work more popular than at the present time.  There is probably not a household in our country of which at least one member is not more or less familiar with the little implement, denominated crochet-hook, by means of which so many lovely things are produced.  Nor is this popularity confined to Irish crochet, and other varieties of this phase of needlecraft of which the separate motif, simple or elaborate, is a distinctive feature: indeed, there are probably fifty women who do “plain crochet” neatly and well to one who is expert in the production of the more intricate and difficult class; and the demand for new and pleasing designs “such as anybody can work out” is large and constant.  It is Needlecraft’s aim and pleasure to supply exactly what is wanted by its big and ever-widening circle, and the invitation to share her new and choice designs with others is cordially extended to every member.  Giving means getting in every phase of human activity.

A Dainty Vase-Mat

By Mrs. A. P. Lett

Chain 4, join.

1.     Chain 1, 8 doubles in ring, join to 1 chain.

2.    Chain 1, 2 doubles in each double, picking up both loops of stitch, chain 1, turn.

3, 4, 5.  A double in each double, widening sufficiently to keep the work flat and smooth, and have 24 doubles in the last row.

6.  Chain 6, (miss 1 double, a treble in next, chain 3) 11 times, join to 3d of 6 chain; 12 spaces in all.

7.  Chain 3, a treble in center of 1^st space, chain 4, catch in top of treble, chain 5, catch in same place, chain 4, catch in same place, chain 3, fasten in top of next treble; repeat around.  This completes the wheel, of which 13 are required for the doily.  Break thread and fasten securely.

For the leaves:  Chain 16, turn; a double in each stitch of chain, 3 doubles in 16^th of end stitch, 14 doubles up opposite side, chain 1, turn, a double in each double. Picking up the back loop of stitch only, to form a rib, 3 doubles in 2d or center stitch of 3 widening doubles of last row, a double in each double up opposite side, leaving 2 at the end, turn, and repeat until you have 4 ribs each side of the center   Coming down on the last row, when making the 2d of the 3 widening doubles, catch into the middle picot of the cloverleaf on little wheel, then continue down other side of leaf as usual.

Make 12 leaves, joining each as directed to a middle picot of cloverleaf, and each to preceding by slip-stitching in 3 stitches at the point of last row made, or corner of leaf.  Join last leaf to 1^st is same manner.

Join a wheel between each two leaves my middle picot of cloverleaf thus:  Chain 3, catch in tip of leaf, chain 2, fasten in treble of wheel; finish the cloverleaf, join next cloverleaf to same leaf at 3d point, make a cloverleaf, then join the next cloverleaf to following leaf as 3d point and next to the tip.  Join each wheel to the preceding by picot of cloverleaf next above those joined at the tip of the leaf.  Easily made and very dainty.

 

Octagonal Doily

By Mrs. Sarah C. Darnell

 

Use No 70 linen thread and a crochet-hook large enough to carry the thread smoothly.  Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join.

1.     Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 15 trebles in ring, join to top of 3 chain.

2.    Chain 3, a treble in same place, a treble in next stitch, *2 in next, 1 in next, repeat from * 6 times, join.

3.    Chain 3, a treble in same place, a *treble each side of the single treble of last row, so there will be 2 trebles between widening points, 2 trebles between 2 trebles, and repeat around, joining last treble to top of 3 chain.

4.    Same as 3d row, commencing with 3 chain and a treble in the same place for a widening, then a treble between each following treble, 3 in all, 2 trebles between next 2 trebles, and repeat.

5 to 20.  Work in the same way, increasing the plain trebles between widenings by 1 each row.

21.  Silp-stitch back over 2 stitches, chain 6, *miss 3 stitches, a treble between next 2, chain 3, repeat around from * and join to 3d of 6 chain.  There should be a space over each point and 7 spaces between points.

22.  A single in space over point, chain 3 for a treble; 3 trebles, chain 3 and 4 trebles, all in same space, *(chain 3, fasten in next space, chain 3, 4 trebles in next) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in next, chain 3, shell of 4 trebles, 3 chain and 4 trebles in the space over point, repeat from *, joining last 3 chain to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

23;  *Chain 4, fasten under 3 chain of shell, chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 4, a double in last treble of same shell, chain 4, a double in 1^st of next 4 trebles, chain 4, a double in last of 4 trebles, repeat around, making 4 chain over each group of 4 trebles, with 4 chain between groups, and the loop of 5 chain over the widening-point.

24.  Slip-stitch to center of point and under the loop of 5 chain as at beginning of 22d row; then repeat 22d row around.

25.  Same as 23d row.

Repeat 24^th and 25^th rows alternately until you have completed the 35^th row, which will be like the 23d.

36.  Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, chain 7, catch back in 4^th stitch from needle for a picot, chain 3, fasten in double under 5 chain, chain 7, picot, chain 3, fasten in next loop; repeat around, only fastening twice (that is, a double under 5 chain, chain 7, picot, chain 3, fasten under same 5 chain) over each point.

A very pretty luncheon- or table-set may be made by this design.  For the tumbler-doilies make only 5 or 6 rows of the center, and 4 or 5 rows of the border; the bread-and-butter-plate-doilies may have several rows more added to both center and border, and other doilies in same proportion.  The centerpiece may be as large as desired, and – if preferred – the center may be of linen in every case, with the crocheted border added.

 

Doily for Bonbon-Dish

By Mrs. Sarah J. Hale

Chain 8, join.

1.     Make 18 doubles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 20, turn; *25 doubles over chain, a single in double of ring, turn, a double in each of 25 doubles, chain 1, turn, a double in each of *5doubles, chain 5 for a picot, repeat from 1^st *, making 4 picots with 5 doubles between, after last 5 doubles make 2 singles in 2 doubles of ring, chain 18 for next spoke, miss 1 picot and fasten in next, turn, and repeat from 1^st * until you have made 6 spokes, joining the last to 1^st at the 2d picot from ring.  Break and fasten thread securely.

3.    Fasten in 1^st picot of a spoke from the tip, chain 6, fasten in next picot of same spoke, chain 13, fasten in picot next to tip of next spoke, and repeat around.

4.    A double in each stitch of last row.

5.    Chain 3, a treble in every stitch of last row, making 2 trebles in every 6^th stitch or as necessary to keep the work smooth and flat.

6.    Like 3d row.

7.    Make 2 knot-stitches, miss 2 doubles, fasten in next, repeat.  The last knot-stitch should fasten where 1^st started.  Then draw out the loop on needle and fasten in the knot between 1^st 2 stitches

8.    Make 2 knot-stitches, fasten in next knot; repeat.

9.    Same as 8^th stitch, commencing each row by drawing out the loop and catching with a single in the following knot; worked thus, the joining of rows scarcely shows at all.  Fasten with 2 doubles in each knot or make a double at each side of knot of last row and close to it.

10.  Same as 9.

11.  Draw up the loop and catch in knot, *chain 6, a double on each side of knot; repeat.

12.  A double in each stitch of chain.

13.  A treble in each stitch of last row, commencing with 3 chain for 1^st treble, and joining to top of 3 chain.

14.  Same as 13.

15.  A double in each stitch

16.  Chain 5, miss 2 doubles, fasten in next; repeat.

17.  A single under 5 chain, chain 3, 2 trebles under same loop, *3 trebles under next loop; repeat from * around, join.

18.  Make 6 doubles over 6 trebles, chain 9, miss 6 trebles; repeat.

19.  Make 4 doubles over 6 doubles, missing 1^st and last, chain 2, miss 1 of 9 chain, a treble in next, taking through the stitch, not under the chain, chain 2, miss 1, 2 trebles in next, 2 in next, chain 2, 2 trebles in next stitch and 2 in next, chain 2, miss 1, 1 treble, chain 2, repeat the row.

20.  Make 2 doubles over 4 doubles, missing 1^st and last, (chain 3, fasten under next chain) twice, chain 5, fasten in next (at top of shell), chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 5, (fasten under next chain, chain 3) twice, and repeat.

21.  A single between 2 doubles, chain 3, miss 1 loop, fasten under next, (chain 3, fasten under next loop, chain 5, fasten in same place) twice, then (chain 5, fasten under same loop) twice, making 3 loops at top of shell, chain 3, fasten in next loop, chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 3, fasten in next loop; chain 3; repeat.

 

Wheel Doilies, Simple and Pretty

By Alice L. Bradshaw

No. 1. – Chain 8, join.

1.     Chain 1, 18 doubles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 5, miss 2, fasten in next; repeat around.

3.    Make 9 doubles under each loop of 5 chain.

4.    Slip-stitch to 5^th of 9 doubles, *chain 7, fasten in top of next loop; repeat around.

5.    Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 10 trebles under 1^st 7 chain, *1 trebles under next 7 chain, repeat from * around, join.

6.    Chain 5, *miss 2 trebles, a treble between next 2, chain 2, repeat from * around and join to 3d of 5 chain.  This will give you 33 spaces.

7.    A single in 1^st space, chain 3, 1 treble, chain 2, 2 trebles, all in same space, *chain 5, miss 2 spaces, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles in next; repeat from * around, joining last 5 chain to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

8.    Slip-stitch to 2 chain in center of shell, and repeat last row, putting shell in shell.

9.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 2 for 1^st treble, 2 double trebles, chain 3, 2 triple trebles and 1 treble, all in same shell, chain 3, fasten under both chains of 5 below, drawing them together in a cluster, chain 3, shell in next shell, and repeat around, joining last 3 chain to the top of 3 chain which stands for 1^st treble of row.

10.  Slip-stitch to top of 1^st shell, chain 10, fasten in top of next shell; repeat around.

11.  Make 12 trebles (chain 3 for 1^st) under every 10 chain, join.

12.  Same as 6^th row, making 66 spaces in all.

13.  Same as 7^th row.

14.  Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3 for 1^st treble, 1 treble, 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in same shell, *fasten under 5 chain, 2 trebles, 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in next shell, repeat from * around, catching last treble under 5 chain and in top of 1^st 3 chain.  Fasten off neatly.

As made, the doily is a pretty one for the smallest size of a set.  To enlarge it, after completing the 13^th row, repeat 8^th and 9^th rows, and again the 19^th and following rows increasing length of chains, number of trebles, spaces, etc., proportionately.  Having made the doily as illustrated, one will have no difficulty in forming any size, or the centerpiece to match.

Finish centerpiece and larger doilies with a circle of wheels, as follows: Wind thread around a tiny pencil or match 10 or 12 times (or make a chain of 5 stitches and join), slip off, and fasten with a single.

1.    Chain 4, and fill the ring with 35 double trebles; join to top of 4 chain.

2.    Same as 6^th row of center, making 18 spaces.

3.    Same as 7^th row, but missing 1 space and making 3 chain between shells; 9 shells in all.

4.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3 for 1^st treble, 1 treble, 4 double trebles and 3 trebles in same shell, fasten under 3 chain, shell in next shell, continue until you have made 7 shells in all, then in each of next 2 shells, having made 2 of the double trebles, catch in 3d double treble of shell in last row of center, finish shell of wheel with 2 double trebles and 2 trebles, fasten under 3 chain and make the next shell in same way, joining to following shell of center.  Make next and succeeding wheels like 1^st, joining each to 2 shells of center, and to the preceding wheel by 2 shells from center, which will leave 3 free shells on the outer edge of each wheel.  Join last to first wheel in same manner, and the doily is completed.

 

No. 2 – Make a chain of 5 stitches, join.

1.     Chain 4, 23 double trebles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 4, miss 2 double trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around, making 12 loops.

3.    Make a chain of 23 stitches, fasten in next space, *turn work, under the chain make 1 double and 13 trebles, turn, chain 5, miss 1 treble of the spoke and fasten in next, chain 14, fasten in next space, repeat from * until you have made 11 spokes, then chain 14, fasten in space where 1^st chain started, make 1 double and 13 trebles over both chains, chain 5, miss 1 treble and fasten in next, turn.

4.    Slip-stitch under 5 chain last made, make a shell of 2 trebles (chain 3 for 1st), 2 chain and 2 trebles under same 5 chain, *chain 6, shell under 5 chain at top of next spoke, repeat from * around and join last 5 chain to 3 chain of 1st shell.

5.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, shell in shell (as at beginning of 4th row), chain 7, shell in next shell; repeat around, and join.

6.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, shell of 2 trebles (chain 3 for 1st treble, always), 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in shell, chain 4, fasten under 7 chain, chain 4, shell in shell; repeat around, and join.

7.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, *chain 14, fasten in next shell; repeat around.

8.    Make 16 trebles under each chain.

9.    Chain 5, miss 4 trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around, making 4 loops over each group of trebles.

10.  Slip-stich to middle of 5 chain; shell of 4 trebles, 2 chain and 4 trebles in next loop, fasten in next; repeat around.

This completes the center of doily, which may be enlarged, as suggested, by repeating the rows of loops and plain trebles.  For the wheels proceed as follows:  Wind thread 10 or 12 times around a pencil of medium size (or chain 7 and join), slip off, and fasten with a single.

1.     Chain 3, 35 trebles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 4, miss 1 treble, a double between next 2; repeat around, making 18 loops.

3.    Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, *chain 4, fasten in next chain; repeat.

4.    A slip-stitch under 4 chain, chain 3 for a treble, 7 more trebles under same chain, *fasten under next, 8 trebles under next; repeat, joining to the center at the middle of 2 shells; as previously described, and each wheel to the preceding in same matter, thus leaving 3 free shells at outer edge of each wheel.

 

 

Centerpiece in Baby Irish Crochet

1912, November, Page 30

By Mrs. E. W. Walker

Make a chain of 8 stitches, join.

1.  (Chain 6, fasten with 1 double in ring) 5 times.

2.  A single under 5 chain, chain 3 for a treble, 5 trebles under same chain, (chain 3, 6 trebles in next loop) 4 times, chain 3 and join to top of 3 chain.

3.  Chain 3, a treble in each treble and 3 under 3 chain, all around, join.

4.  Chain 4, miss 3 trebles and fasten between next 2; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st started.

5.  Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, * chain 6, fasten under next 4 chain; repeat.

6.  Slip-stitch to center of 6 chain, * chain 6, fasten under next 6 chain; repeat.

7.  Under each loop of 6 chain make 1 double, 7 trebles and 1 double.  This row completes a wheel which serves as a very pretty medallion for shirtwaists, combined with embroidery, or it may be used in a variety of ways for which such a wheel is suitable.

8.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st scallop, * (chain 9, faster back in 6^th stitch from needle to for a picot) twice, chain 3, fasten in center of next scallop; repeat from * around.

9.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st picoted chain, * (chain 9, picot) twice, chain 3, fasten in top of loop between next 2 picots; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st started.

10.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st loop, * (chain 9, picot) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in center of next loop; repeat around, joining where 1^st chain started.

11.  Slip-stitch to 2d picot (or, if preferred, the thread may be fastened off and joined in at the place designated), chain 4, a double treble in same picot, keeping top loops of each on hook and working off together, chain 3, 2 double trebles, worked off together, in same picot, *chain 12, 2 double trebles in picot at top of next loop, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same picot, always working the groups of double trebles off together, repeat from * around, chain 12, join to top of 1^st group.

(Note: original skipped #12.)

13.  Chain 5, * miss 1, a treble in next stitch, chain 2’ repeat from * around and join to 3d of 5 chain.

14. Chain 7, miss 1 space, fasten in next; repeat.

15, 16.  Slip-stitch to center of chain, * chain 7, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

17.  Under each loop of 7 chain make 1 double, 9 trebles and 1 double.  This row completes a very pretty doily.

18.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st scallop, * chain 4, a double treble in same place, working off together, a double treble in same place, working off together, a double treble in top of next scallop, chain 4, fasten in same place; repeat from * around, ending with a double treble in stitch where the row started, chain 4, fasten in same.

19.  Slip-stitch to top of cluster, *chain 5, a triple treble in same place, a triple treble in center of next cluster, chain 5, fasten in same place; repeat, ending with a triple treble and 5 chain to complete the row.

20.  Same as 19^th row.

21.  Slip-stitch to top of 1^st cluster, chain 4, a double treble in same place, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same place, working off together, * chain 4, 2 double trebles, as described, in top of next cluster, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same place; repeat from *, joining last 4 chain to top of 1^st cluster.

22.  Chain 5, * a treble under 3 chain, chain 2, a treble in 1^st of 4 chain, chain 2, a treble in last of 4 chain, chain 2, repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

23.  A single under 2 chain, chain 7, a treble under same chain, *miss 1 space, 1 treble in next, chain 4, a treble in same space; repeat from * around, join to 3d of 7 chain.

24.  A single under 4 chain, chain 8, a treble under same chain, 1 treble, chain 6 and 1 treble under next chain, repeat around, joining to 3d of 8 chain.

25.  Slip-stitch center of 5 chain, * chain 7, fasten under next 5 chain; repeat around.

26.  Slip-stitch under 7 chain, chain 5 for a triple treble, a triple treble under same chain, (chain 4, 2 triple trebles under same chain, working off together) twice, * 3 groups of triple trebles under next 7 chain, with 4 chain between each 2 groups, repeat from * around and join to top of 1^st group or cluster.

27.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, *chain 5, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

28, 29.  Same as 27^th row.

30.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, chain 5 for triple treble, a triple treble in same place, * chain 4, 2 triple trebles under next chain, working off together, repeat from * around, chain 4 and join to top of 1^st cluster.

31.  Same as 30^th row.

32.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, * chain 5, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

33.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, * chain 6, fasten in next chain; repeat around.

34.  Under each loop of chain make 1 double, 8 trebles and 1 double.

35.  Slip-stitch to center of scallop, * chain 5, fasten in center of next scallop; repeat.

36.  Chain 5, * a treble in 3d of 5 chain, chain 2, a treble in double, over top of scallop, chain 2, repeat from * around, join to 3d of 5 chain.

37.  A single in space, * chain 12, miss 2 spaces, fasten in next chain 3, fasten in next space, turn; (chain 5, a double treble under 12 chain) 5 times, chain 5, a treble under same chain, chain 2, fasten in space back of where the 12 chain started, chain 3, fasten back in next, turn; a treble under 2 chain, 6 trebles under each 5 chain, fasten in next but 1 space forward, turn; chain 6, miss 3 trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around scallop, turn; chain 7, fasten under 6 chain, repeat around scallop, catching in 2d space forward after fastening the last chain, turn; chain 7, fasten under 7 chain, repeat around scallop, fastening in 2d space back, turn; chain 3, fasten in next space, * 2 double trebles under 7 chain, 2 picots (that is, chain 5, fasten in 1^st stitch of 5 chain) twice, 2 double trebles under same chain, picot, repeat from * around scallop, miss 2 spaces after making last 2 doubles trebles, fasten in next, then slip-stitch along over 8 spaces, again chain 12, and repeat the scallop.

Made of No. 90 linen thread, this gives a centerpiece about fifteen inches in diameter, if worked rather closely.  Coarser thread would, of course, result in a much larger piece, and there is such a difference in methods of working that it is quite impossible to state the exact size of an article, even though the same number of thread is used by two workers.  It must be understood, too, that if one does her work tightly more chain-stitches are required than if loosely done.  These variations every experienced crocheter understands and makes allowance for.