A Group of Attractive Doilies in Crochet

August, 1913
page 2

Never, even in the earlier days when it possessed the charm of novelty and everybody was eager to “learn the stitch,” was crochet-work more popular than at the present time.  There is probably not a household in our country of which at least one member is not more or less familiar with the little implement, denominated crochet-hook, by means of which so many lovely things are produced.  Nor is this popularity confined to Irish crochet, and other varieties of this phase of needlecraft of which the separate motif, simple or elaborate, is a distinctive feature: indeed, there are probably fifty women who do “plain crochet” neatly and well to one who is expert in the production of the more intricate and difficult class; and the demand for new and pleasing designs “such as anybody can work out” is large and constant.  It is Needlecraft’s aim and pleasure to supply exactly what is wanted by its big and ever-widening circle, and the invitation to share her new and choice designs with others is cordially extended to every member.  Giving means getting in every phase of human activity.

A Dainty Vase-Mat

By Mrs. A. P. Lett

Chain 4, join.

1.     Chain 1, 8 doubles in ring, join to 1 chain.

2.    Chain 1, 2 doubles in each double, picking up both loops of stitch, chain 1, turn.

3, 4, 5.  A double in each double, widening sufficiently to keep the work flat and smooth, and have 24 doubles in the last row.

6.  Chain 6, (miss 1 double, a treble in next, chain 3) 11 times, join to 3d of 6 chain; 12 spaces in all.

7.  Chain 3, a treble in center of 1^st space, chain 4, catch in top of treble, chain 5, catch in same place, chain 4, catch in same place, chain 3, fasten in top of next treble; repeat around.  This completes the wheel, of which 13 are required for the doily.  Break thread and fasten securely.

For the leaves:  Chain 16, turn; a double in each stitch of chain, 3 doubles in 16^th of end stitch, 14 doubles up opposite side, chain 1, turn, a double in each double. Picking up the back loop of stitch only, to form a rib, 3 doubles in 2d or center stitch of 3 widening doubles of last row, a double in each double up opposite side, leaving 2 at the end, turn, and repeat until you have 4 ribs each side of the center   Coming down on the last row, when making the 2d of the 3 widening doubles, catch into the middle picot of the cloverleaf on little wheel, then continue down other side of leaf as usual.

Make 12 leaves, joining each as directed to a middle picot of cloverleaf, and each to preceding by slip-stitching in 3 stitches at the point of last row made, or corner of leaf.  Join last leaf to 1^st is same manner.

Join a wheel between each two leaves my middle picot of cloverleaf thus:  Chain 3, catch in tip of leaf, chain 2, fasten in treble of wheel; finish the cloverleaf, join next cloverleaf to same leaf at 3d point, make a cloverleaf, then join the next cloverleaf to following leaf as 3d point and next to the tip.  Join each wheel to the preceding by picot of cloverleaf next above those joined at the tip of the leaf.  Easily made and very dainty.

 

Octagonal Doily

By Mrs. Sarah C. Darnell

 

Use No 70 linen thread and a crochet-hook large enough to carry the thread smoothly.  Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join.

1.     Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 15 trebles in ring, join to top of 3 chain.

2.    Chain 3, a treble in same place, a treble in next stitch, *2 in next, 1 in next, repeat from * 6 times, join.

3.    Chain 3, a treble in same place, a *treble each side of the single treble of last row, so there will be 2 trebles between widening points, 2 trebles between 2 trebles, and repeat around, joining last treble to top of 3 chain.

4.    Same as 3d row, commencing with 3 chain and a treble in the same place for a widening, then a treble between each following treble, 3 in all, 2 trebles between next 2 trebles, and repeat.

5 to 20.  Work in the same way, increasing the plain trebles between widenings by 1 each row.

21.  Silp-stitch back over 2 stitches, chain 6, *miss 3 stitches, a treble between next 2, chain 3, repeat around from * and join to 3d of 6 chain.  There should be a space over each point and 7 spaces between points.

22.  A single in space over point, chain 3 for a treble; 3 trebles, chain 3 and 4 trebles, all in same space, *(chain 3, fasten in next space, chain 3, 4 trebles in next) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in next, chain 3, shell of 4 trebles, 3 chain and 4 trebles in the space over point, repeat from *, joining last 3 chain to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

23;  *Chain 4, fasten under 3 chain of shell, chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 4, a double in last treble of same shell, chain 4, a double in 1^st of next 4 trebles, chain 4, a double in last of 4 trebles, repeat around, making 4 chain over each group of 4 trebles, with 4 chain between groups, and the loop of 5 chain over the widening-point.

24.  Slip-stitch to center of point and under the loop of 5 chain as at beginning of 22d row; then repeat 22d row around.

25.  Same as 23d row.

Repeat 24^th and 25^th rows alternately until you have completed the 35^th row, which will be like the 23d.

36.  Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, chain 7, catch back in 4^th stitch from needle for a picot, chain 3, fasten in double under 5 chain, chain 7, picot, chain 3, fasten in next loop; repeat around, only fastening twice (that is, a double under 5 chain, chain 7, picot, chain 3, fasten under same 5 chain) over each point.

A very pretty luncheon- or table-set may be made by this design.  For the tumbler-doilies make only 5 or 6 rows of the center, and 4 or 5 rows of the border; the bread-and-butter-plate-doilies may have several rows more added to both center and border, and other doilies in same proportion.  The centerpiece may be as large as desired, and – if preferred – the center may be of linen in every case, with the crocheted border added.

 

Doily for Bonbon-Dish

By Mrs. Sarah J. Hale

Chain 8, join.

1.     Make 18 doubles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 20, turn; *25 doubles over chain, a single in double of ring, turn, a double in each of 25 doubles, chain 1, turn, a double in each of *5doubles, chain 5 for a picot, repeat from 1^st *, making 4 picots with 5 doubles between, after last 5 doubles make 2 singles in 2 doubles of ring, chain 18 for next spoke, miss 1 picot and fasten in next, turn, and repeat from 1^st * until you have made 6 spokes, joining the last to 1^st at the 2d picot from ring.  Break and fasten thread securely.

3.    Fasten in 1^st picot of a spoke from the tip, chain 6, fasten in next picot of same spoke, chain 13, fasten in picot next to tip of next spoke, and repeat around.

4.    A double in each stitch of last row.

5.    Chain 3, a treble in every stitch of last row, making 2 trebles in every 6^th stitch or as necessary to keep the work smooth and flat.

6.    Like 3d row.

7.    Make 2 knot-stitches, miss 2 doubles, fasten in next, repeat.  The last knot-stitch should fasten where 1^st started.  Then draw out the loop on needle and fasten in the knot between 1^st 2 stitches

8.    Make 2 knot-stitches, fasten in next knot; repeat.

9.    Same as 8^th stitch, commencing each row by drawing out the loop and catching with a single in the following knot; worked thus, the joining of rows scarcely shows at all.  Fasten with 2 doubles in each knot or make a double at each side of knot of last row and close to it.

10.  Same as 9.

11.  Draw up the loop and catch in knot, *chain 6, a double on each side of knot; repeat.

12.  A double in each stitch of chain.

13.  A treble in each stitch of last row, commencing with 3 chain for 1^st treble, and joining to top of 3 chain.

14.  Same as 13.

15.  A double in each stitch

16.  Chain 5, miss 2 doubles, fasten in next; repeat.

17.  A single under 5 chain, chain 3, 2 trebles under same loop, *3 trebles under next loop; repeat from * around, join.

18.  Make 6 doubles over 6 trebles, chain 9, miss 6 trebles; repeat.

19.  Make 4 doubles over 6 doubles, missing 1^st and last, chain 2, miss 1 of 9 chain, a treble in next, taking through the stitch, not under the chain, chain 2, miss 1, 2 trebles in next, 2 in next, chain 2, 2 trebles in next stitch and 2 in next, chain 2, miss 1, 1 treble, chain 2, repeat the row.

20.  Make 2 doubles over 4 doubles, missing 1^st and last, (chain 3, fasten under next chain) twice, chain 5, fasten in next (at top of shell), chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 5, (fasten under next chain, chain 3) twice, and repeat.

21.  A single between 2 doubles, chain 3, miss 1 loop, fasten under next, (chain 3, fasten under next loop, chain 5, fasten in same place) twice, then (chain 5, fasten under same loop) twice, making 3 loops at top of shell, chain 3, fasten in next loop, chain 5, fasten in same place, chain 3, fasten in next loop; chain 3; repeat.

 

Wheel Doilies, Simple and Pretty

By Alice L. Bradshaw

No. 1. – Chain 8, join.

1.     Chain 1, 18 doubles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 5, miss 2, fasten in next; repeat around.

3.    Make 9 doubles under each loop of 5 chain.

4.    Slip-stitch to 5^th of 9 doubles, *chain 7, fasten in top of next loop; repeat around.

5.    Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 10 trebles under 1^st 7 chain, *1 trebles under next 7 chain, repeat from * around, join.

6.    Chain 5, *miss 2 trebles, a treble between next 2, chain 2, repeat from * around and join to 3d of 5 chain.  This will give you 33 spaces.

7.    A single in 1^st space, chain 3, 1 treble, chain 2, 2 trebles, all in same space, *chain 5, miss 2 spaces, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles in next; repeat from * around, joining last 5 chain to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

8.    Slip-stitch to 2 chain in center of shell, and repeat last row, putting shell in shell.

9.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 2 for 1^st treble, 2 double trebles, chain 3, 2 triple trebles and 1 treble, all in same shell, chain 3, fasten under both chains of 5 below, drawing them together in a cluster, chain 3, shell in next shell, and repeat around, joining last 3 chain to the top of 3 chain which stands for 1^st treble of row.

10.  Slip-stitch to top of 1^st shell, chain 10, fasten in top of next shell; repeat around.

11.  Make 12 trebles (chain 3 for 1^st) under every 10 chain, join.

12.  Same as 6^th row, making 66 spaces in all.

13.  Same as 7^th row.

14.  Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3 for 1^st treble, 1 treble, 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in same shell, *fasten under 5 chain, 2 trebles, 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in next shell, repeat from * around, catching last treble under 5 chain and in top of 1^st 3 chain.  Fasten off neatly.

As made, the doily is a pretty one for the smallest size of a set.  To enlarge it, after completing the 13^th row, repeat 8^th and 9^th rows, and again the 19^th and following rows increasing length of chains, number of trebles, spaces, etc., proportionately.  Having made the doily as illustrated, one will have no difficulty in forming any size, or the centerpiece to match.

Finish centerpiece and larger doilies with a circle of wheels, as follows: Wind thread around a tiny pencil or match 10 or 12 times (or make a chain of 5 stitches and join), slip off, and fasten with a single.

1.    Chain 4, and fill the ring with 35 double trebles; join to top of 4 chain.

2.    Same as 6^th row of center, making 18 spaces.

3.    Same as 7^th row, but missing 1 space and making 3 chain between shells; 9 shells in all.

4.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3 for 1^st treble, 1 treble, 4 double trebles and 3 trebles in same shell, fasten under 3 chain, shell in next shell, continue until you have made 7 shells in all, then in each of next 2 shells, having made 2 of the double trebles, catch in 3d double treble of shell in last row of center, finish shell of wheel with 2 double trebles and 2 trebles, fasten under 3 chain and make the next shell in same way, joining to following shell of center.  Make next and succeeding wheels like 1^st, joining each to 2 shells of center, and to the preceding wheel by 2 shells from center, which will leave 3 free shells on the outer edge of each wheel.  Join last to first wheel in same manner, and the doily is completed.

 

No. 2 – Make a chain of 5 stitches, join.

1.     Chain 4, 23 double trebles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 4, miss 2 double trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around, making 12 loops.

3.    Make a chain of 23 stitches, fasten in next space, *turn work, under the chain make 1 double and 13 trebles, turn, chain 5, miss 1 treble of the spoke and fasten in next, chain 14, fasten in next space, repeat from * until you have made 11 spokes, then chain 14, fasten in space where 1^st chain started, make 1 double and 13 trebles over both chains, chain 5, miss 1 treble and fasten in next, turn.

4.    Slip-stitch under 5 chain last made, make a shell of 2 trebles (chain 3 for 1st), 2 chain and 2 trebles under same 5 chain, *chain 6, shell under 5 chain at top of next spoke, repeat from * around and join last 5 chain to 3 chain of 1st shell.

5.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, shell in shell (as at beginning of 4th row), chain 7, shell in next shell; repeat around, and join.

6.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, shell of 2 trebles (chain 3 for 1st treble, always), 5 double trebles and 2 trebles in shell, chain 4, fasten under 7 chain, chain 4, shell in shell; repeat around, and join.

7.    Slip-stitch to center of shell, *chain 14, fasten in next shell; repeat around.

8.    Make 16 trebles under each chain.

9.    Chain 5, miss 4 trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around, making 4 loops over each group of trebles.

10.  Slip-stich to middle of 5 chain; shell of 4 trebles, 2 chain and 4 trebles in next loop, fasten in next; repeat around.

This completes the center of doily, which may be enlarged, as suggested, by repeating the rows of loops and plain trebles.  For the wheels proceed as follows:  Wind thread 10 or 12 times around a pencil of medium size (or chain 7 and join), slip off, and fasten with a single.

1.     Chain 3, 35 trebles in ring, join.

2.    Chain 4, miss 1 treble, a double between next 2; repeat around, making 18 loops.

3.    Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, *chain 4, fasten in next chain; repeat.

4.    A slip-stitch under 4 chain, chain 3 for a treble, 7 more trebles under same chain, *fasten under next, 8 trebles under next; repeat, joining to the center at the middle of 2 shells; as previously described, and each wheel to the preceding in same matter, thus leaving 3 free shells at outer edge of each wheel.

 

 

Two Doilies in Teneriffe Lace

1912, November, page 19

Doily with Teneriffe Border

By Mary E. Link 

It is a very easy matter to finish a doily or centerpiece with a border of Teneriffe lace, other than the wheels so commonly used.  The method herewith described is original with the writer, and the result is most satisfactory.

Prepare the device for making the lace as for a small wheel – taking, for example, the ordinary cardboard foundation.  This should correspond in size to the circumference of the doily you wish to make, with a little to spare.  Make the row of dots or perforations around the outer edge, and the second row just within, and “string” these with the bars of thread for holding the foundation- or cross-threads.  There must be exactly the same number of these bars as of pair-threads for weaving on, and this depends on the pattern, the size of doily, etc.  Complete, the model is nine and one-half inches in diameter and has a three-inch linen center.  These proportions may be varied as desired, the border shown being very pretty for a large centerpiece, embroidered or plain; indeed, a luncheon-set may be made with border to match for all the sizes, using the same pattern of different widths.

Having prepared the pasteboard foundation of proper size, and put in the thread-bars, make the linen center, turning a narrow hem and buttonholing the edge closely all around.  The number of buttonhole-stitches should be the same as that of the thread-bars.  Fasten the circle of linen in the exact center of the pasteboard; and, starting with the last buttonhole-stitch, carry the thread out, under a thread-bar, back to center, under the next buttonhole-stitch, out to edge and under next thread-bar, and so continue until all have been worked under, bringing the last thread back to center, where it is securely fastened.

Pass out about one fourth inch and knot four threads (two pairs) together all around, allowing about one eighth inch of thread between knots, or enough to keep the circle flat and smooth.  Now weave back and forth over eight threads ten times, or about three-eighths inch, pass back to center (or to the knotting-thread), weave over next eight threads in same way, pass back and weave next eight threads.  After the third section is woven do not return to the center, but drop the four outer threads (the last four of last section), weave over remaining four and half the threads of middle section as before, then weave over remaining four threads of middle section and half of next section, leaving the four outer threads.  Leave four threads of last section worked; and over the remaining four, and four of the next section, weave a single section above the last two, dropping the outer four threads each side.  This completes the pyramid.  Pass back to the knotting-thread and along it to the next eight threads and repeat.  In all there are thirteen of the pyramids.  After completing the last, do not return to center, but pass out about one fourth inch, knotting the third, fourth, fifth and sixth threads of the single section together; knot next four threads together, and repeat around.  Weave around twice, then proceed with the outer part of the pattern as follows: Weave back and forth over eight threads seven times, or about one fourth inch, drop four threads at the right take on next four, and again weave as directed.  Repeat until you have woven four blocks diagonally, then drop the last four threads of fourth block, and weave a block on the remaining four and the four dropped from preceding block, again drop four threads and wave another block.  This completes a group or section of blocks.  Continue working in this way, weaving the blocks over eight threads, dropping four and taking on four, until the circle is finished, then knot each pair of threads, all around, pass out one fourth inch, knot two threads, taking a thread from each of two previous knots in order to divide the pairs, again pass out and knot as before.  Then press the doily, placing a thin cloth over it, to stretch the threads and prevent them drawing up, and release the work by clipping the thread-bars at the back.

As will be noted, the pattern may be varied in accordance with the taste and skill of the worker, and there is scarcely a limit to the pretty effects that are possible. 

Doily or Cushion-Cover in Teneriffe Lace

By Grace Lett

Two sizes of wheels are used in making this dainty square, that in each corner being three inches in diameter, while the border wheels are one and one-fourth inches.

The various methods of making these wheels, or the foundations for making them on, have been clearly described.  Probably the homemade device in most common use is the circle on pasteboard, with two rows of  dots at the outer edge, back and forth through which are sewed the little bars of thread for taking the foundation-threads of the wheel under.  The circle should be about one fourth inch larger than the finished wheel.  Space it off with dots at even distances, and one fourth inside this make another circle containing the same number of dots, a trifle nearer together.  After perforating the dots with a tiny bradawl or similar implement, take a length of strong thread, bring your needle up through a perforation in the outer circle, put it down through the corresponding perforation in the inner circle, and continue until you have thus used all.  This is the foundation, which is the same for small or large wheels, differing only in the number of perforations.

Using the thread of which the wheel is to be made, bring your needle up through the center of the pasteboard, leaving a short length hanging, pass to the edge of circle, under a bar, across center of pasteboard to the bar exactly opposite, under that, back across the pasteboard, crossing the first thread, under the bar next to first, and so on until you have worked under every bar.  Take care that the working-threads are not twisted,  After working under last bar, carry the needle to center, pass the needle under all the threads and make a tight buttonhole-knot, then another knot at right angles to this, to hold them smoothly and securely, and weave around two or three times, alternating the threads.  Then proceed with the pattern.

The large wheel has 64 pair-threads – or the same number of perforations in the pasteboard foundation.  After reaching the last row of weaving at the center, weave over 16 threads, dividing 1^st and 8^th pairs, for 3/8 of an inch, or according to the size of your wheel; drop a thread each side, weave across two or three times, again drop a thread each side, and repeat until you have decreased to 2 threads; pass back to center, weave the next point in like manner, and repeat until all are completed.  After the last do not return to center but pass out about 3/8 of an inch and knot each thread around, forming a tiny scallop over each point; again pass out about 3/8 of an inch and knot each pair of threads straight around.  Lay a cloth over the wheel and press with a moderately hot iron, snip the thread bars which hold the work to the foundation, remove the wheel, thread the end left hanging and fasten neatly at center on wrong side.  The small or border wheels have each 32 pairs of threads.  After knotting and weaving around center, pass out 5-16 of an inch, knot each pair around, pass out 3-16 of an inch, knot each pair again, taking a thread from each previous knotting to divide them.  Then press and release the wheel as directed.

Arrange the border as shown, a large wheel in each corner of the net with small wheels surrounding, and whip them together at the edge, neatly, joining them also to the net or lawn used for the center.  The superfluous fabric is then cut away, and a narrow felling made to finish the raw edge.

The square may be made as large as desired, adding to the number of small wheels between corners, and is beautiful on a polished table.  A bureau-set, consisting of two square mats, one oblong piece for comb-and-brush tray, and a cushion-cover, is very attractive.  The same trimming may be used for a square collar, a bertha, and for many other articles which will readily occur to one.

 

 

A Practical Centerpiece

By Mrs. S.A. Garlough
January, 1912, page 21

 Make a chain of 8 stitches, join.  Chain 1, 14 doubles in ring, join to 1 chain.

1. Chain 5, miss 1, a treble in next, *chain 2, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 2, a treble in same place, chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, repeat from *, forming 9 spaces and joining last 2 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

2. A single in space, chain 5, a treble in same space, *chain 2, a treble in next space, chain 2, 2 trebles, separated by 2 chain in next, repeat around, joining to 3d of 5 chain.  The work should lie perfectly flat and smooth, and somewhat depends on the material worked with, as well as one’s method; some crochet very tightly, others loosely.

3. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch all around; join to top of 3 chain which represents 1^st treble.

4. Chain 5, *miss 2, a treble between next 2 stitches, chain 2; repeat from * around, join to 3d of 5 chain.

5. Chain 5, *a treble in space, chain 2; repeat from *, widening as necessary to keep the work flat; join.

6. Chain 6, treble in space, chain 3; repeat around, join to 3d of 6 chain.

7. A single in space, chain 3, 2 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in space, *chain 1, miss 1 space, shell of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next; repeat from *around, chain 1, join to 3 chain at beginning of 1^st shell.

8. Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3, 2 trebles, 3 chain and 2 trebles in shell, *fasten with 1 double between shells, shell of 3 trebles, 3 chain and 3 trebles, in next shell; repeat from * around, joining to top of 3 chain.

9. Make 14 trebles in shell, fasten in the fastening stitch of last row between shells; repeat around, joining in stitch where the row started.
     This row completes the smallest size of doily, or tumbler-doily, of which there may be as many as required, either six, eight or a dozen in the set.

10. Slip-stitch over 7 trebles of the scallop, chain 9, fasten between the 7^th and 8^th trebles of next scallop; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st started.

11. Same as 3d row.

12, 13, 14. Same as 4^th, 5^th and 6^th rows, keeping the work flat and smooth.

15, 16, 17. Same as 7^th, 8^th and 9^th rows, using double trebles (over twice) instead of trebles, if preferred, to make the shells and scallops a trifle larger than in the small doily.
     The second size of doily, for bread-and-butter plates, bowls, etc., is finished with the 17^th row.  Repeat from 10^th to 17^th rows inclusive for yet another size.  As will be noted, as many sizes may be made as desired in this manner; then for the centerpiece these rows may be repeated to give the requisite size before the border is added, as follows:

For the border:
1. Having repeated the 3d row of plain trebles, chain 4, *miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1, repeat around; join to 3d of 4 chain. 

2. Same as 3d row.

3. Chain 5, a treble in same stitch where chain started, *(chain 1, miss 1, a treble in next) 7 times, chain 2, a treble in same stitch with last treble; repeat from * around, joining last 1 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

4. A single under 2 chain, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 2, 2 trebles under same chain, * chain 1, miss 1^st space, (a treble in next space, chain 1) 5 times, chain 1, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles under 2 chain between 2 trebles following repeat from * around, joining last 1 chain to top of 3 chain.

5. slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3, 2 trebles, chain 3, 3 trebles, all in same shell, * chain 6, miss 3 spaces, a treble in treble, chain 6, shell in next shell; repeat around, joining last 6 chain to top of 3 chain.

6. Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 5, 7 trebles in shell, chain 2, 1 treble in same shell, * chain 3, fasten in top of treble with 1 double, chain 3, a treble in next shell, chain 2, 7 trebles in same shell, chain 2, 1 treble in same shell; repeat from * around, joining last 3 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

7. A single under 2 chain, chain 5, *(a treble between 2 trebles, chain 2) 6 times, chain 2, a treble under 2 chain, chain 2, a double in double, chain 2, a treble under 2 chain, chain 2, repeat from *, joining last 2 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

8. A single under 2 chain, chain 6, (a treble under next 2 chain, chain 3) 5 times, a treble under next chain, chain 2, a double in double, chain 2, a treble in 1^st space of scallop, chain 3; repeat around, joining last 2 chain to 3d of 6 chain.

9. (A double under 3 chain, chain 5) 6 times, a double in double between scallops, chain 5; repeat around, joining last 5 chain where 1^st started.
     The border, although simple, is very attractive and may be added to a linen center.  A very pretty set consists of one large centerpiece, two smaller ones, and three sizes of doilies.  If it is desired to make oval mats to match, for platters and similar dishes, commence with a chain in the center, working around it with doubles and widening at the ends; then, when making the spaces, do the widening also at each end and at the sides close to the ends, having plain spaces along the sides between.  An oval doily or centerpiece of any required size may thus be easily made.
     After the same pattern or directions, one may fashion a very pretty bureau-set.  Using pink, blue, pale-green, or any delicate tint corresponding to the general color-scheme of your apartment, make the shells and scallops of this, with the rows of plain trebles, spaces, etc., of cream-white.  Or, if preferred, the shaded mercerized cotton may be used, yellow, violet, pink, blue, green, or any desired color, with white; or the pieces may be of white, thus harmonizing with any fittings.  For the bureau or dresser an oval mat will be needed for the brush-and-comb tray, with two smaller ones for the toilet-bottles, and a cover for the cushion 9either round or oval) to match.  A similar set may be made for the commode.