Excellent Models for Useful Garments

1913 08 page 12

Ladies’ Combination

Corset-cover and short petticoat are combined in this design, No. 6310.  Both open in front, and are joined together at the waistline.  The corset-cover is plain, and will make no wrinkles to show through the outer garments.  The neck is low, and there are no sleeves of any kind.  The petticoat fits snugly at all points, and has just fulness enough at the lower edge for the comfort of the wearer.

These garments are now made things of beauty by a clever selection of materials.  Crepe de Chine in the lighter qualities is the favorite fabric, and after this a very fine and sheer batiste or handkerchief-cambric, with insertions of Valenciennes lace or of Cluny.  Colored ribbons are run through beadings, and the fashionable woman chooses these to match or at least to harmonize with the tones of her outer costume.

The pattern, No. 6310, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the combination in the medium size will require 1 5/8 yards of 45-inch material, 3 7/8 yards of insertion, 3 1/2 yards of beading, 4 7/8 yards of ribbon, 2 yards of wide edging, and 5 1/4 yards of narrow edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Work-Apron and Cap

The woman who wears this costume, No. 6300, when working, will certainly look as charming as in any other style.  The apron has a plain blouse, slightly full at the waistline.  The closing is in the back.  The neck is cut out in a small round outline, and the sleeves have a suspicion of fulness at the shoulder where they are inserted.  They end just below the elbow.  The skirt-portion of the apron has a wee bit of fulness at the belt, and is attached to the blouse beneath a belt.  There are two patch-pockets on the sides of the front.

This apron may be worn over the dress, or it may replace it, as it resembles a dress as much as it does any apron.  The most appropriate materials are gingham, cambric, calico, and the like, and colored wash-braids may be used as trimming, binding all free edges, and forming the belt.

The apron-pattern, No. 6300, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 4 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Maternity-Gown

This gown, No. 6289, offers great comfort to the prospective mother, and at the same time will preserve her appearance to the last.  It is made with a body lining, which should be of something good and heavy, such, for instance as unbleached muslin, or sateen.  The fronts and the darts must be boned and then the edges can be laced, instead of being stitched together, and eased as desired from time to time.

The outer portion of the garment is very pretty, with a shaped Empire yoke, cut down low in front and finished with an ornamental collar.  The lower portion of the gown is arranged in two box plaits in front, and these have plenty of give to them, and can be readjusted as needed.  In the back there is an underturned box plait; and this, also, is large enough to give plenty of plan in the material.

These gowns can be made of all wash-materials, and cotton crepe is among the best.  Figured sateen is also good, and of course the figured and plain Japanese silks and satins, and the various soft crepe fabrics are also desirable.

The gown-pattern, No. 6289, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 6 3/8 yards of 36-nch material, 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch trimming for collar and sleeves, and 1 1/8 yards of 36-inch lining.  Width of lower edge, 3 1/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

The Trend of Fashion

by Dora Douglas

1913 08, page 10

The most striking phase of midsummer fashion is found in the sudden craze for all white dresses.  It is safe to say that there is never a summer when white is not worn to a great extent, but this season bade fair to prove an exception to the usual rule.  Earlier in the day, say in late May and June, there was very little white worn or exhibited.  Everything seemed to trend in the direction of colors more or less violent, to one-tone frocks and to combinations.  The few all-white dresses that were shown were either very dressy late-afternoon models or tailormade suites of the fancy order.

A change has come over the spirit of our dreams with the persistence of the summer heat.  All-white frocks are now seen in every grade, from the hand-embroidered crepe-de-Chine gowns which are advertised as beach gowns for morning wear, to the simple batiste frock of flouncing that can be made at home in a day, almost in a morning.

It is these more simple frocks that have the greatest interest for women in general.  The use of flouncing does a great deal to simplify the making of them, for the skirt can be made of a single width of the 45-inch embroideries or of two or three flounces of narrower widths.  The lower edge of the skirt is almost always finished with a band of some plain color, and this is an economy as well as a very attractive finishing-touch, for it does not soil as readily as would the plain white and if it is sewed on by hand it can be ripped off and cleansed with gasoline without affecting the rest of the dress.

This little lower edge is sometimes duplicated at the end of each flounce, when two or three are used, and of course a similar color is placed somewhere on the bodice to hold the dress together, as it were.  The most usual place for it is around the outline of the neck, which is almost always low, or down the line of the closing, if the surplice-closing is used.  Somewhere on the cuff also must a touch of the same color be placed, and perhaps a girdle of it added, and the dress is complete.  The new manner of making the skirt, with gathers at the waistline, also has its share in simplifying the manufacture of such a dress, for the wide flouncing is soft and can be neatly gathered without producing any impression of bulkiness.

While we are on this subject we must call attention to the importance of the belt to-day.  A rather prominent society bride the other day, when questioned about her trousseau, remarked that all she was going to get was a number of belts, nothing more would be needed.  Of course she did not foresee the laugh this announcement would cause, but she struck the keynote of the situation: inasmuch as the belt, if cleverly chosen makes an entirely new costume out of an old one, by changing its character completely.

We must admit that the fashion of belts is very economical.  All that is necessary is to have a varied collection of belts in order to give quite a different appearance to the same frock or to rejuvenate completely a last-season’s dress.  This famous feminine accessory, which had such an important signification in antiquity, occupies our attention as much as it occupied that of the woman who lived thousands of years before the Christian era.  Indeed it seems that the belt was born with woman.  The earliest girdle on record.  Eve’s invention of fig-leaves, was a very light and fanciful affair, no doubt.  Later we find it ornamented with claws of beasts, shells and incrustations of fish-bones, which were, I suppose, the only substitute for the jewels which women of to-day take such delight in using.

But nothing is lost and nothing is new under the sun, especially in matters of fashion, and although we have ceased to wear fishbones, we will love shells, and the little pearly ornaments gleam charmingly from leather or silk, just as the shone on queens in days long gone by. For at one time only queens were allowed to wear belts.  To-day the poorest little maid may use a belt to brighten her old tailormade costume, and this simple accessory, which the queen of Sheba might well have copied with advantage to herself gives the wearer a decided piquancy.

For this new and striking fancy we put under contribution all the peoples of the east and west; classic and modern alike.  We go to the antique frescoes to study the knotted belt that confines so gracefully the folds of our modern robes and from the Assyrians we borrow the sumptuous embroideries and gold-weighted fabrics that form our principal trimmings to-day.

We have the Egyptian, the Assyrian, the Japanese, the Zouave and the Bulgarian belt.  We have the ecclesiastical belt and the sash of the bayadere.  We may choose the Arab or the Greek belt, or we may have every kind mingled.  According to our beauty or dress, or even according to our passing fancy may we choose it.

For the simple costume there is the simple cord, finished with a tassel, dangling to our ankles, like the girdle of some severe monk, or copied exactly from that which the oriental priesthood wore on days of high festival; for other frocks there is the wide, flat band of the priest of to-day; still other styles are found in the beaded and broidered tissues which we wind about our no longer slender waists when wearing transparent and clinging fabrics.  Yet again there is the wide Empire girdle of many different fabrics which is worn to give tone to the lingerie gown.

The charm of this lingerie frock is a very potent one, and there are many reasons why this should be so.  Few things are more becoming alike to old and young wearers.  Again, these frocks are easily cleaned and consequently, in addition to being delightfully fresh-looking, are economical in wear.  One cannot imagine anything more appropriate or charming on a hot summer day.  To see the lingerie gown in its most chic and fascinating form one has only to look over the models displayed in the large city shops.  There is the simple linen dress with hemstitching or embroidery done by hand; there is also the frock of cotton crepe, richly embroidered by hand in some one color, Nattier blue or Mell rose, or in shades of brown, now so fashionable.  The material is lined with net; net tucked horizontally, appears at the front opening, and real lace medallions and other insertions add to the beauty and to the cost of the dress.

To wear with lingerie gowns there are cunning little coats made of brocaded cotton eponge, a very handsome and modish fabric, yet quite light in weight; these coats are usually cutaway in shape, and are usually of bright colors with white collars and cuffs.

On some of the white frocks a little colored embroidery is introduced; this is very effective, worked in light tints directly on the dress.  Very simple, but particularly attractive are the summer dresses of voile and lace.  The models with short tunics are extremely popular.  These draperies are now shorter in front and longer in the back, and are thus more becoming to the average figure.  Smart outing-dresses of ratine and linen in white are touched up with colored collars and cuffs, and show white buttons with colored rims and centers.  These dresses are just the type for outing-dresses and for morning wear.

For all these simple white suits we find the greatest favor accorded to ratine in fine, medium and heavy grades.  Closely following in popularity are the crepes plain and printed, in cheap and medium grades.  The fancy for printed crepes has come late, but is very pronounced, and we find the brilliant colorings known to us as Bulgarian, and the very dainty Pompadour effects with small flowers on a faintly tinted ground.  Favor is equally divided between these two types.

Printed voiles are also very popular, and silk and cotton fabrics in sheer, medium and heavy weights.  These have the appearance of a silk charmeuse.  They are among the best of the printed materials, and are widely used for trimmings.

Jacquard designs, however, are perhaps the most used.  They are so very effective in suits in which two styles of material are used.  The jacquard material is usually employed for the skirt, and the plain for the coat or blouse, although the reverse arrangement is my no means uncommon.

House-dresses have this season made a high place for themselves in the favor of the feminine world.  There was a time when they were relegated to the wrapper-departments of the large department-stores.  To-day, however, they are to be found in the regular suit-departments, sometimes even in a division devoted to them alone.  This is doubtless owing to the fact that as the popularity of house-dresses grew their quality improved also.  Among the best liked of these dresses are models of percale in stripes, plaids and checks, also chambrays, piques and figured lawns.  Ginghams are also used in a variety of effects.  Some of these gingham dresses have ratine collars and cuffs, and leather belts. The more pretentious models have fancy collars, in simple embroidered patterns and with scalloped edges, and narrow leather belts.  Black-and-white checks are often finished off with white pique bandings, with embroidered scalloped edges worked out in blue.

The finer-quality percales have machine-embroidery and ratine collars and cuffs in contrasting colors.  Fancy collars, cuffs, buttons and vest-effects are often seen on the better-quality percales.  Handsomer house-dresses are made of imported tissues embroidery-trimmed, natural linen, madras cloth in plain, check and stripe effects, and the finer grades of white pique, Bedford cord and ratine.

The waists which now seem to be the favorites are the white models in shadow-lace and net; also those of crepe de Chine, China silk and messaline.  Prejudice against the sharp contrast between white waist and dark-colored skirt is now a thing of the past.  It was necessary, however, to educate women to the broken line by the continued use of contrasting materials in the waist-section of dresses.  This change in the color-lines began with the use of colored chiffons over white lace and net.  Then came the partial veiling of the colored lining with contrasting diaphanous fabrics.  Gradually the colored overdraping has been lessened until now the plain white stands out as a thoroughly popular article.

This does not mean that the colored chiffon waists are not good style, but it does mean that they are no longer the only style.

In the matter of separate skirts, choice is practically unlimited.  There are attractive models in eponge, linen, and pique.  Fancy eponge skirts in woven stripes or with plain grounds and pencil-stripes in colors, also brocaded eponges are high class and novel.

For all practical purposes the plain skirt, fastening at the side or center-front, and with a few gathers in the back, is the best liked.  Among the novelty eponge skirt are many with draped effects, some on both sides, some on one side only, and others again with the drapery caught up in front in Oriental effect.

The favorite trimming is undoubtedly buttons.  Crystal is the favorite, plain white, plain colors, or white with colored centers and the reverse.

In addition to white washable skirts there is quite a fancy for check material in lightweight woolen goods.  The sizes of these checks are varied, ranging from pin size to an inch check.  Black-and-white is the favorite combination, but some blue and brown with white are also see.  Striped skirts are also seen, but the stripes are not aggressive in type and the fine, almost invisible line on a solid ground is perhaps the most popular.

The summer suit is a source of endless delight in its variety.  For morning wear there are the smart suits of linen, eponge and cotton corduroy.  As a rule these are made with a cutaway coat, the fronts crossed well over each other and fastened with one or two buttons.  The skirts are of a simple type and there is rarely any trimming except the buttons and buttonholes.  These are not always placed where they are needed, but where they will add most to the appearance of the suit.  The shirring of the back is universal in the tailored skirts, and there is usually some attempt at a belt, fastening with a buckle.

The more elaborate models for afternoon wear are made of Russian linen and also of ramie, of plain and brocaded eponge, cretonne and hand-embroidered linen.  The coats of dresses of this class vary far more widely than those of the suits for more informal wear.  They are cutaway, Russian-blouse, Chinese-coat, Balkan-blouse and other dressy shapes.  In all the more elaborate models we find the fancy vest and ornamental collars and cuffs.  Cretonne and printed eponge are frequently used as a trimming, and they are very effective.  Plain colored eponge is also used in the newer designs, and the nets in the new futurist designs make very effective trimmings.

The skirts to these more dressy suits usually show a suggestion of drapery.  In some there is a little fulness at either side of the front panel, and others are draped at one side or directly in front, as with less dressy models.  In the matter of color all the brown tints lead, but Saxe blue, white, tan, gold, rose, leather, and Paquin green are all favored.

With these suits the more dressy styles of waist are worn.  Those of lace or chiffon, richly embroidered, are the best liked.  Of course there is an immense variety of styles in waists to choose from, not only for dressy suits but for all other purposes.  In silks white crepe de Chine leads, especially in designs which have a frill-finish.  The familiar double frill is still a feature of popular waists, and we also find many narrow frills, which outline the front plaits, or follow the side-fastenings.  Narrow plaitings to match the frills are used as a finish to the flat collars and turnback cuffs.  Among the semitailored waists we find the button-through collar and cuffs, and the long shoulder and plaited frills.  In the novelty waists we find crepe de Chine in combination with printed net or printed silk.

No waists are more popular for general wear than the China-silk waists.  These also show the frill-finish, but the designs are more conservative, more akin to the tailored cut.  These are the practical waists, and are used for outing-purposes and also for office wear by the girl or woman who works for others.

For traveling, striped wash-silk waists are especially popular, and these are also much used for morning wear.  In some cases these waist show the white groundwork, with broad or narrow stripes in purple, gray, blue, rose, yellow or brown.  Then again the groundwork sometimes shows a soft shade of gray, blue, rose or tan with white stripes.  These models are usually made on the general lines of a man’s shirt.  Silk-and-linen materials are also much used for waists in this same class.

Lace and net waists are also extremely popular, and are shown in such a wide range of style and price that anyone can find some model to her taste.  The unlined net waists are also popular, and this largely because they are so practical.  They can be laundered, whereas the lined models cannot, and this does away with both inconvenience and expense.

So many inquiries come to us with each month as to the correct millinery to wear with one or other style of dress selected, that a word on this topic will not be out of place in these columns.  There are very few large shapes worn at present even in the evening.  The small hat is the thing for the daytime, and the half large hat for the evening, if a hat must be worn, or a little fancy cap of embroidery, with an aigrette or other ornament when the hat can be dispensed with.

Colors in hats have followed those in dresses, and we find a wonderful increase of the all-white hat.  This is very pretty in its way, but we cannot help thinking that a hat that has something striking about it makes the best possible finish for an all-white costume.  Thus black and white, strikingly places, not mixed together, is good, and a touch of bright green or red or blue on a white hat will all be enlivening and effective.  Many women prefer an all-black hat with a white dress, and this is also extremely effective.  Some of the new black hats are of medium size with a frilled brim, in the baby-hat style, and with malines covering the crown.  Sometimes such a hat will have a band of colored ribbon across the crown or a bunch of some very bright flowers at one side on the brim.

The sailor-hat in its original form is one of the season’s arrivals, and it is good to see it once again, so trim, so stylish and so youthful.  It is perhaps the one girlish had that the gray-haired woman can wear without being accused of trying to get up mutton in lamb fashion.

The Panama shapes are in excellent style for wear with the simple tailormade suits, the plainer one-piece dresses and the traveling-suit of simple serge or other cloth.  These hats are usually simply trimmed with a scarf of bright colors, the ends of which are allowed to hang loosely down the back or side.  Sometimes one finds merely a few narrow folds of colored ratine, or a band of feathers, of the flat varieties.

The tall trimmings, sharp pheasant-feathers, manufactured aigrettes, and the like, are all much used; and they are variously placed either directly at the back of the hat, or directly in front; rarely, but sometimes, they are seen at the side.  The use of large wired bows is not uncommon.  These are always placed across the back of the hat, and sometimes they are made of ribbon, at others of net or lace.  Plain black, plain white, and black and white mixed, are the most popular colors.

The curled ostrich bands which surround the crowns of hats are very much used even on simple hats, and for dressy occasions a short plume or two can be added.  I am happy to say that the willow plume is not used at all.  Of course one sees it, but so does one see wide skirts and other things that are none the less “not worn.”

The ornaments which are made of ribbon and which are very upstanding are extremely popular.  Some of them look as if they were knotted around a stiff bit of wood or metal, and have generally a bunch of short loops at the end.  These bows stand up smartly, and take the place of feathers or aigrettes at the back of the hat.

The small hat is most popular of all.  It is no longer pulled down over the face like an extinguisher, and it is therefore a hundredfold more becoming than formerly.  It is possible now to show the hair, whereas a year ago the hat would have looked just as well on a bald pate, so completely was the head extinguished. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Newest Styles in Ladies’ Costumes

1903 08 09

 

Ladies’ Toilette

By combining two designs in this costume, No. 6308 and No. 6309, we have a result which is extremely pleasing.  The blouse is one of the soft, draped models.  The shoulder-seams come very far forward, and the fronts of the blouse are gathered along this line, or they may be plaited, if preferred.  This gives a little fulness to the waist.  In closing one side is drawn over the other iin surplice-style, and the edges are trimmed with a wide frill.  There is a large collar at the neck, and this is round in shape in the back, ending just below the shoulder-seam in front. 

The new large armhole is used, and the sleeve is adjusted to this without any fulness at the shoulder.  The three-quarter-length sleeve is generally used, but the pattern also provides a full-length sleeve, which is gathered into a deep cuff at the wrist.

The skirt of this costume has three gores.  It is closed at the left side of the front, where a bit of graceful drapery is arranged at about knee-depth, and is held in place by a strap.

The material selected for this dress should be soft.  Ratine, which is to be had in many different weights and thicknesses is appropriate, and all the cotton crepe and cotton voile weaves, as well as the handsomer crepe de Chine and brocaded silk.

The waist-pattern, No. 6308, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/2 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6309, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Width of lower edge is 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

This is one of the loveliest of the one-piece dresses, No. 6312.  It is simplicity itself, consisting of a plain blouse, cut out in a deep U, and displaying the front of a quimpe, which is separate from the dress, and which can be faced in any manner preferred.  The back and sides of the neck-opening are trimmed with one of the smaller square collars, so much affected by well dressed women, and cuffs to correspond finish the three-quarter-length sleeves.  The front closing of the blouse laps over at the left side, and is held in place by two large buttons.

The skirt of this costume has three gores.  It may have either high or regulation waist-line, and is attached to the blouse.  It opens at one side of the front, and a small section is cut away at the lower edge of the overlapping gore.

Brocaded eponge is one of the best liked fabrics for these one-piece dresses, and simple ratine, figured cotton voile, sheer and transparent, and also cotton crepe, as well as brocaded messaline, plain satin and figured crepe de Chine.

The dress-pattern, No. 6312, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 3/4 yards of 44-inch material for the dress, and 3/4 yards of 36-inch lining lawn, and 1/2 and of 22-inch net for the guimpe.  Width of lower edge, 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Ladies’ Costume

One of the late-summer favorites, the cutaway coat, forms the bodice of this attractive costume, No. 6299.  The coat-blouse has a small vest in the front, and a handsome collar at the low neck.  The sleeves are set into large armholes, and the peplum-sections are cut separately from the upper portion of the coat.

The two-piece skirt which is worn with this blouse fits snugly to the figure, and is attached to the blouse at the waistline, or made separately, as preferred.

No style is more popular at the present than the coat-blouse in this form, and it is usually made of a color with a white skirt, or of a plain material, with a figured skirt.  Of course it may well be made all of one material, and will be very handsome.

The combinations of ratine, eponge, linen, cotton crepe, cotton voile, bengaline and corduroy of the washable kind, will all be suitable and handsome.

The pattern, No. 6299. Is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the costume in the medium size will require 1 3/4 yards of plain material and 3 1/4 yards of figured material, both 36-inches wide.  Width of lower edge 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

A Shirtwaist Suit

The shirtwaist still holds its own, and this season has brought us many models prettier than ever before.  For comfort there are few styles better than the shirtwaist, and it is also very economical.

In this combination, No. 6396, and No. 6297, we have a plain blouse waist, with a low shoulder and an inset sleeve, this extending to the writs, where it is gathered into a cuff.  The neck of this waist is cut out quite far and the edges trimmed with a pretty notched collar.  The waist closes in duchesse style in the center of the front.

With this waist is worn a three-gore skirt.  This may have either the high or the regulation waistline.  It has a flat panel in the back, and in front there is a graceful drapery from the knee down on one side, over a small gore placed underneath to fill the opening.

In a shirtwaist costume the economical woman will use woolen goods for the skirt, and some of the lightweight tailor mixtures in the new shades of brown or Paquin green will be very effective, while the blouse may be of white linen or batiste, or of colored ratine, voile and the like.

The shirtwaist-pattern, No. 6396, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/4 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6397, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 2 7/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Width of lower edge, 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

Three Summer Dresses and a Useful Wrap

1913 08 page 8

 

Ladies’ Cape

The cape of to-day is a utility garment, and must be made with an end to real protection.  The model herewith illustrated, No. 6313, is of soft camel’s hair, with a hood-collar of the skirt-material.  The length of the cape may be arranged to suit the wearer, but for a really useful garment the long cape is of course best.  The collar extends in the back I hood form, and this will be found handy in wet weather to slip over the head when driving, or walking short distances.  This cape can also be used for evening wear, and in that case some such material as charmeuse, crepe de Chine, bengaline, moire and the like will be most appropriate.   It is now customary to line these heavier materials with plain and figures chiffon for evening use.

The cape-pattern, No. 6313, is cut in sizes small, medium and large, or 34, 38 and 42 inches bust measure.  To make the cape in the medium size will require fur full length, with hood, 5 3/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

In this design, No. 6319, we have a fresh variation of the popular coat-blouse style.  The garment is made practically plain at the upper part, with drop-shoulder, long sleeve and a peplum in cut-away shape.  The neck is provided with several styles of finish.  It may be high, with a standing collar, round as shown or without the chemisette at all, leaving a great deal more of the neck exposed to view.  The peplum also may be short, as in the illustration, or much longer, coming almost to the knees.  The pattern provides all these different changes.

A two-piece skirt completes this costume, and the model is made with a few gathers in the back, in the newer mode and with the closing in the center of the front.

No better style than this could be found for colored linen, which can be scalloped by hand in white.  It is also an ideal design for ratine, and either one or two colors may be used.  For silk and crepe fabrics the style is excellent and it will also be satisfactory for the more simple ginghams that are within reach of every purse.

The dress-pattern, No. 6319, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 5 7/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Width of lower edge is 1 ¾ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

Something distinctly out of the common is shown in this flounce dress, No. 6302 and No. 6303.  The blouse is a shirtwaist of the simplest character.  It has the long sleeve and the body in one, and it may also be made with the drop-shoulder and a three-quarter sleeve as the pattern provides for these changes.  The neck is finished with a pretty flat collar of moderate size.

The skirt of this costume touches an entirely novel note.  The seeming flounces are in reality tucks, and the skirt is a one-piece design.  It has either plaits or gathers at the top, and may be made with either the high or the regulation waistline.

Such a costume as this made of figured cotton voile would be at once dainty and cool and stylish.  If heavier fabrics are used the tucks can be hemstitched by machine.  It is quite a fad at present to use thin materials for these skirts and then to run ribbon through the tucks.

The waist-pattern, No. 6302, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 1 5/8 yards of 44- or 54-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6303, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 3/8 yards of 36- or 44-inch material.  Width of lower edge, 1 ¾ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

A Shirtwaist-Suit

This natty costume, No. 6291 and No. 6292, is just the thing for morning wear, whether for shopping or for informal calls.  The waist shows a model with a long shoulder-yoke and the drop-shoulder, carried unusually far down on the arm.  The sleeve is plain and is finished at the wrists in the approved shirt fashion.  At the neck the waist is quite open and is trimmed with a handsome collar, ending just in front of the shoulder-yoke, where a tie comes from under the edges and passes through a strap in the front.  The closing is in the center of the front of the waist. 

With this simple waist is worn a skirt which has a suggestion of drapery in the new manner.  The model may be made with either two or three gores, according as a seam is placed in the center of the back or not.  This arrangement allows the use of either wide or narrow materials.  At about knee-depth the front gores are extended in square tabs and a bit of the cloth of the back gore is caught in to give the draped suggestion.

Waist and skirt may be made of one material, or two may be selected.  This is entirely a matter of preference, and if wash-fabrics are used for the waist, plain Japanese silk should not be overlooked, as it is very fashionable and very comfortable

The waist-pattern, No. 6291, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 

The skirt-pattern, No. 6292, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 1/2 yards of 27-inch material for the two-piece skirt, or 4 yards the same width for the three-piece arrangement.  Width of lower edge, 1 5/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Easily Made Frocks

1912, November, Page 28

 

Girls’ Dress

Brown is one of the newest colors for little girls’ dresses this season, and for this reason was chosen in the construction of the smart little garment given in model No. 5308.

Cashmere in the warm, golden shade of the color, is the material used, with satin of a little deeper shade to trim the frock.

The dress is made with separate guimpe.  Body and sleeves of the garment are cut in one, the yoke-bands at front and back being especially attractive.

The skirt is becomingly plaited, and is joined to the waist by a narrow belt.  The guimpe may be of allover, as shown in the drawing, or of silk, mull or other contrasting fabric.

The pattern, No. 5308, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.    Eight-year-old size will require 2 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, and 3/8 of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods for dress, and 1 1/8 yards of 36-inch material for guimpe.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Girls’ Dress

Quite a becoming frock for a growing girl is shown in design No. 5972.

The frock is made in simulated sailor-fashion.  It closes at the front, and has the pretty sailor-collar, which is a feature of dresses of this nature.

The short sleeves have narrow band cuffs, and the skirt is nicely plaited, with a box plait at center-front and center-back.

The garment may be carried out daintily in white serge, with black braid trimming, and with black-satin tie and patent-leather belt for completion.  White pearl buttons may be used on the waist, effecting the left-side front fastening.

The pattern, No. 5972, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ½ yards of 36-inch material, ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Children’s Yoke Dress

The clever little garment offered in model No. 5968 is simplicity itself in construction.  It has a pretty round yoke, and can be finished with high or low neck, and with long or short sleeves.

Pale-blue linen or pique is a nice development-suggestion, with the yoke, belt and cuffs of embroidery insertion.

The pattern, No. 5968, is cut in sizes for 2, 4, 6 and 8 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, 2 ½ yards of 36-inch fabric, or 2 1/8 yards of goods 44 inches wide, with 3/8 of a yard of 22-inch allover.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

 

 

Children’s Dress

Model No. 5970 gives an attractive little wash-dress, made of pink linen, with hand-embroidered yoke. 

The garment is quite easy to make, and is very dressy.  The style is one that is generally becoming.  There is a box plait beneath the center of the yoke front and back.  The closing is at the back.

White linen may be used, with allover-embroidery yoke, and any of the other wanted wash-fabrics may be utilized.

The pattern, No. 5970, is cut in sizes for 1, 3, 5 and 7 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, with 3/8 of a yard of 270inch contrasting goods.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

 

Clever Outer Garments

1912, November, Page 26

Girls’ and Children’s Circular Cape

Here is a splendid idea for a school-wrap for a small girl.  The cape is very simple to make, and can be finished in either of two lengths, and has a hood.  Serge, broadcloth, and similar materials may be used to develop the model.

The pattern, No. 3915, is cut in sizes for from 2 to 12 years.  To make the cape in the medium size will require 3 yards of 36-inch material for the long cape, or 2 ½ yards of the same width for the short cape.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Girls’ Double-Breasted Coat

A delightful design for a coat is offered in model No. 5986, which can be made in a short time, and of any of the new woolen fabrics so popular for this purpose.  The model is double-breasted, and has a sailor-collar, single revers and cuffs of contrasting goods.

The pattern, No. 5986, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 3 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 ½ yards of 44-inch, with ¾ of a yard of 27-inch mohair.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Boy’s Suit

Quite the thing for school-wear is the attractive sailor-suit for a young lad, given in design No. 5976.

The blouse is made with large sailor-collar, trimmed with braid.  The shield is removable, and there is a handkerchief-pocket at the front for completion.  The sleeves are nicely plaited at the bottom

The bloomers are made in the regulation fashion, and are finished with legbands or elastic.

Blue serge, with red braid and a red-silk tie will develop the model becomingly.  Blue, trimmed with black or white, is also nice.

The pattern, No. 5976, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the suit in the medium size will require 2 5/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

For School Wear

1912, November, Page 24

Girls’ Dress

Another frock in very becoming style is presented in design No. 4784.  This garment closes at the front, which makes it convenient for the child to put on and off.

The waist has shoulder-plaits front and back, which extend to the waistline.  The closing-line of the waist is cut diagonally, and is outlined with braid, which extends down the skirt to the bottom.  The collar and cuffs are trimmed with braid.

The skirt is plaited and joined to the waist by a belt.  Serge, cashmere, cheviot, plaid woolen, checks and stripes are good development-ideas.

The pattern, No. 4784, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 36-inch material, or 2 ¾ yards of goods 44 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





 

Children’s Dress

The delightful little model given in design No. 5962 is made of white Jap silk, with insertion trimming.

It has the waist tucked in the form of a yoke front and back, broken in the center at the front by a double row of insertion, with a plain space in the center.

The collarless neck is cut round, and is finished with edging.  The short sleeves have a band of insertion, finished with edging.  The skirt may be plaited, or gathered, having straight lower edge.

The pattern, No. 5962, is cut in sizes for 4, 6 and 8 years.  Age 8 requires 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, 2 3/8 yards of 44-inch fabric, or 2 yards of goods 50 inches wide, with 1 ½ yards of edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





 

Girls’ Dress

The pretty dress shown in design No. 5964 is made of red-and-white plaid woolen, with plain white collar, shield and cuffs.

The blouse closes at the left side of the front, and the three-gored skirt is joined to an underwaist.

This is a very attractive garment, and one quite simple to make.  A red patent-leather belt holds the blouse in position.  The tie is of red silk.

The pattern, No. 5964, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 2 ¾ yards of 44-inch material, with ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  The underwaist requires ½ yard of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Girls’ Underwaist Set

Design No. 5977 shows a splendid underwaist set for a little girl, and one very simple to make.

It consists of an underwaist, drawers, and a circular or gathered petticoat.  The neck and armholes are trimmed with edging, and the petticoat has two rows of insertion, and is finished with wide embroidery edging.

The pattern, No. 5977, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 7/8 of a yard of 36-inch material, and 1 ½ yards of edging for the waist, 1 yard of 36-inch material, 2 yards of insertion, and 1 ½ yards of edging for the drawers, and 1 yard of 36-inch material, with 3 ½ yards of insertion for the circular petticoat.  If the gathered petticoat is used 1 ½ yards of 36-inch material, 3 3/8 yards of insertion and 2 ¼ yards of edging are required.  If made of one material, the set requires 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Two Pretty Yokes in Knitting

1912, November, page 22

Square Yoke for Corset-Cover or Chemise

By Clara M. Folsom

Cast on 50 stitches; knit across plain.

1.  Slip 1, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 8, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, *over, narrow, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

2.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

3.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, *knit 1, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

4.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 5, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, *(knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.  By binding off the 3 stitches in one row and replacing them by putting thread over 3 times in the next, the beading in which to run ribbon is formed.

5.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, *knit 2, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

6.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

7.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

8.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, (knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 8.

9.  Like 3d row to *; knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

10.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

11.  Like 5^th  to *; knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 11, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

12.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, *over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 8.

13.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 10, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

14.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th row from *.

15.  like 3d to *; knit 7, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

16.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 7, *over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

17.  Like 4^th to *; knit 8, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

18.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th row from *.

19.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 9, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 19.

20.  Bind off 4, knit 15; like 12^th from *.

21.  Like 3d to *; knit 10, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

22.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 3; like 16^th row from *.

23.  Like 5^th to *; knit 11, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

24.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th from *.

25.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 12, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

26.  Like 6^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

27.  Like 3d to *; knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 8, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

28.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3, over narrow, knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

29.  Like 5^th to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 14.

30.  Bind off 4, knit 15, over, narrow, knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

31. Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 1; like 1^st row from *.

32.  Like 2d to *; knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 8.

33.  Like 3d to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

34.  Like 4^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

35.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

36.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13; like 12^th row from *.

37.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

38.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th from *.

39.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

40.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

Make the pattern three times for one front, bind off 35 stitches, continue the scallop with the holes for beading on the remaining stitches until you have fourteen scallops for one shoulder, then cast on 35 stitches and knit the pattern six times for the back.  Make the other shoulder and front in the same way.  Make seventeen inches the same as shoulder for inside of arm.  Run three-eighths-inch ribbon in the holes and tie on shoulders and in front.

No. 38 lace thread was sued for this yoke, which is large enough for thirty-two or thirty-four-inch bust measure; it may be easily increased in size, however, by knitting an extra pattern, and adding to the length of shoulder.

In crochet cord or knitting-cotton the insertion without the scallops, also omitting the purling, if preferred, makes a very pretty stripe for a bedspread.  With the edge of scallops, omitting the purling – which any knitter can readily do after having knitted the pattern as described – one has a very attractive lace while the scallop itself makes a neat, pretty edging for under-garments and any small article.

Yoke for Knitted Undervest

By Mrs. Lura Fletcher

Using No. 17 or No. 18 needles (finer, if preferred) and No. 60 crochet-cotton, cast on 44 stitches and knit across once plain.

1.  Knit 5 (the 1^st stitch of each row at this edge may be slipped), over 3 times, slip 2d, 3e and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st stitch, knit that stitch and 2 more, *over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, *knit 3, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st,knit 5, over, knit 1, (over, knit 3 together) twice.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in loop, knit 3, *purl 3, knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 9, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 18, purl 3, knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1) twice, purl 3, knit 11.

5.  Knit 11, over, knit 1; over, narrow, (purl 1, narrow) 3 times, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 19, purl 4, (knit 1, purl 1) twice, knit 1, purl 4, knit 11.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 3, over, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 7, narrow, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 12, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, knit 11.

9.  Knit 11, over, knit 5, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 19, purl 15, knit 11.

11.  Repeat from * to * in 1^st row, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 11, repeat * to * in 2d row, knit 11.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are fifteen scallops for the back.  Break off the thread, leaving at least eight inches, and lay aside with the stitches still on the needle.

For the underarm piece take another needle, cast on 2- stitches and knit across plain.

1.  Knit 5, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st, knit 5, over, knit 1, over, knit 3 together.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 20.

5.  Knit 10, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 21.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 15.

9.  Knit 12, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 22.

11.  Knit 13, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 14.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are nine scallops for the underarm; then, as you knit to the top or selvage edge, take the strip you have completed for the back and knit the last stitch on your needle with the 1^st stitch of the other (the two selvages together); turn, knit 1^st row of scallop, turn, knit back to the top as usual, knitting last stitch with next stitch of the back.  Continue in this way until 24 stitches (the insertion) are joined, leaving the 20 stitches of the scallop still on the needle.

Now proceed with the overarm strip, which has the scallop on each edge.  Knit across the edge which you have just joined to the roseleaf insertion, then continue with the scallop exactly as you knitted it when making the back of the yoke.  Knit until you have seven scallops (on each edge) for the shoulder, then divide, having 20 stitches on each needle.  Leave the upper edge, and knit four scallops on the underarm, joining to the beginning of the underarm strip by knitting together.

Now take the upper or shoulder needle, with the remaining 20 stitches, and pick up 24 stitches along the selvage of the four scallops last knitted, 1 stitch from every other row, and making the original 44 stitches.  Continue with the front, making it the same as the back, and proceed with the other arm exactly as directed for the first, joining the ends by knitting together loosely enough not to draw the work.

Finish by running ribbon through the beading spaces, front and back, and around the arms.  Strengthen the plain space between the beading over the shoulder, by neatly applying narrow tape on the under side.

The lace in itself is very pretty; and the edging with the beading may be applies without the insertion to the neck and sleeves of a corset-cover or combination garment.