Ribbon Flowers

by Anna T. Roberts
1913 08 page 11

Floral decorations or ornaments of ribbon are so much in vogue just now, so lovely and useful in many ways, that everybody is anxious to learn just how they are made.  There is scarcely any art in the realm of fancy work more readily acquired.

 

To begin, the ribbon flowers are fashioned, as a rule, of soft, satin-taffeta ribbon, ranging from the narrow “baby ribbon” up to an inch in width.  If larger flowers are desired, then wider ribbons are used, but the method remains the same.  For the tiny pink rose-buds, commence at the center, using either a shade of old-rose or deep-pink narrow ribbon: wind loosely around a bodkin or small, rounded stick, wind again, then twist and so on until there is enough for the center.  Now take a threaded needle and tack together through the center to keep it in place; using the next shade of pink, wind and twist as before, and again a third shade.  Two shades of pink with the old-rose are sufficient for the buds, or, if desired, but one shade need be used.  Remember, however, to tack in place with the needle, as directed, to keep it firm.

Roses are made in the same way, at starting; but as they open,  very light shade of pink rather wider than for the buds is used to shape the outer petals, which are twisted very loosely, taking care to get the turnover effect required for the full-blown rose-petals.

Yellow roses and buds are made like pink ones, starting with deep orange or yellowish brown for the center, blending into golden-yellow and then into straw-color or canary-yellow for the outer petals.  For red roses use three or four shades of “American beauty” ribbon; this color is just now the rage, and many lovely effect can be produced with it, and used to good advantage.

Each flower is made separately and sewed on to a foundation.  The best for this purpose I find (as it can be bent into any desired shape) is very find wire covered neatly with dark-green ribbon (or a lighter shade, if preferred).  This is also used for flower-stems, where they are intended to show.  To make the foundation for hearts, or other forms, take the required length of fine wire, covered with the ribbon.  Use the darkest shade of green ribbon to give the effect of leaves; make one or two loops, catch down with a needle and fasten to the wire, then throw the ribbon over the wire and make more loops on the opposite side until the length of wire is reached.  Now select a lighter shade of green ribbon in the narrow width, and continue in the same way, alternating the shades with light on one side and dark on the other.  Two or more shades may be used in this manner.

When the “foliage” is completed the buds, roses, pansies, violets or other flowers are securely fastened in the desired places, after which some long loops of green may be added to do away with any possible suggestion of stiffness.

Another method of producing the green-leaf effect is to make rosettes of loops at intervals along the green-covered wire; then sew a flower in the center of each rosette.  This is especially pretty for wreaths, single sprays or bunches of ribbon flowers, and gives a realistic appearance as the stems show in between.

Forget-me-nots, violets and pansies are made by forming each petal and sewing together.  The centers are dotted with gold-colored embroidery-silk, shaded with orange, and the pansies have dots of green in the center, and the veinings may be touched with purple water-color paint.  Once having practised even to small extent the fascinating art of making ribbon flowers a thousand and one suggestions will occur by which the worker will be able to give her productions the touch of individuality always so desirable.

As for the decorative uses to which these flowers may be put, they are so many and varied that it seems almost impossible to enumerate them.  They are, of course, very lovely as ornaments for the hair as well as for the corsage, and make a charming finish to the embroidered turnover collars and fluffy lace frills that are so becoming and popular.  The linen belt- or girdle-bags sued so much in summer would be most attractively embellished with a wreath or spray of ribbon flowers, singly or forming a more elaborate design as individual taste dictates.  Belt-buckles, heart-shaped, round or oval, are also much in favor, especially for party-gowns.  Again, these ribbon designs form a beautiful decoration for fancy articles, such as glove-boxes, veil-cases, handkerchief- and cravat-holders, opera-bags; and are extremely dainty on a pincushion and for a dresser-scarf, with mats for the different toilet-articles decorated in the same way – thus taking the place of or combining with embroidery.  Tiny ribbon roses on silk candleshades of desired color are greatly admired.  Again, as favors for the table, or for dances, nothing could be more charming; for holding place-cards the effect would be novel and pleasing.  A photograph-frame, perhaps using a favorite flower, forms a unique setting for the face of a dear friend; and flowers formed in the shape of hearts would be most appropriate for valentines, or to be given as prizes at a valentine- or “heart-party.”

As suggested, there is really no limit to the possibilities of these lovely bits of handicraft, and the work of making them is fascinating in the extreme.

(Miss Roberts will answer all inquiries in regard to her work, materials, samples, etc., if a self-addressed, stamped envelope is enclosed.)

Table-Cover in Ribbon Embroidery

By Mrs. T. D. MacBey

1913 08 page 6 

The name of this class of needlework – also called rococo-embroider – indicates its character.  Inn it ribbons of different widths and colors are used in place of embroidery-silks, or in conjunction with them, since rope-silk or purse-silk is employed in outlining stems, scrolls, baskets, and other portions of a design for which even the narrowest ribbon is not quite suitable.

Ribbon-embroidery would be far more in vogue than it is, were there not a wrong impression concerning it.  Those who know it, consider it one of the most important forms of decorative needlework, and use it constantly for small and large pieces of every description; there are many others, however, who believe it to be tedious or difficult to do, and impractical when done, because it cannot be laundered in a regular way.  Answering the first objection, it is of course obvious that the work may be very much more quickly accomplished than the ordinary colored embroidery, since an entire flower can be fashioned with less than a dozen movements of the needle at most; while all who have worked with embroidery-silks know the many stitches that are required to obtain the same effect; hence the advantage is largely in favor of ribbon-work when time is a consideration.  It “goes” so quickly that one has no thought of tiring of it before even a large piece of work is accomplished.  Think of making an entire petal or leaf with a single stitch, and you may easily imagine the fascination the work possesses for needlecrafters who have learned by experience how easy it is and how rapidly done – particularly in these “rushing” times of ours.

As for laundering, ribbon-embroidery may be sent to a professional cleanser and come out looking like new many times; or one may use gasoline and wash it at home, keeping the fluid always away from a room in which is artificial light or fire.  The better plan is to take it out-of-doors in a large bowl, or any vessel corresponding in size to the article to be washed, placing this in a pan of hot water; then wash the work by “sousing” it in the fluid, lifting up and down, and squeezing lightly with the hands.  Change the supply if the first becomes discolored or dirty, and finally hang the work in the open air where the odor will quickly depart.

For dress-garnitures of every sort there is nothing more lovely than ribbon-embroidery.  It may be done on bands of net and applied, or on the garment itself.  Once undertaken, and the possibilities of the art discovered, many new uses will be found for it.

Three widths of ribbon are generally employed, the very narrow for tiniest flowers, a half-inch width for larger ones, and one about five-eighths or three-fourths inch, the latter, having one edge picoted and the other plain, being intended for the petals of carnations and similar blossoms.  The plain edge is drawn up, the picots serving to represent the serrate edge of the flower-petals.  Ribbons of crepelike texture, shaded from one edge to the other, are especially pretty for blossoms such as sweet-peas; but any ribbon may be used.

While the gathered, or picot-edge ribbon, must necessarily be caught in place (indicated by the stamped or traced outlines of the design) on the surface, using a strand of filo-silk as nearly as possible of the same shade, the usual method of using this material is exactly the same as that for embroidery-silks; they are threaded into a needle and the stitch is taken through the foundation.  Choose a needle large enough to make an opening through which the ribbon will follow easily, and use the latter in short lengths, that it may not become worn or frayed in the least.  It is a good plan to smooth it out between thumb and finger after each stitch.  And do not draw it through tightly – thus giving a flat appearance, which is of all things to be avoided.  Each petal should have the raised, natural appearance of the flower the worker is copying, so far as possible to give it.  No padding is necessary, although this is sometimes recommended.  Run the handle of a stiletto or some other small, smooth object under the ribbon after the stitch has been taken, shaping the petal.  The ribbon puffs very easily, since it emerges and is again drawn through a small aperture at base and tip of petal.

The decoration of the table-cover may properly be classed as a sweet-pea design, since that flower is used throughout save at each corner, where appear sprays of violets, tied with narrow ribbons.  The foundation is a fancy moire, green in tone and shading from light to dark.  Any other material may be selected, a heavy gray linen being very appropriate.  The cover is one yard square without the border, which is three and one-half inches deep.

The violet petals are of narrow violet ribbon, the leaves of narrow green ribbon, and the stems of heavy green silk, in outline-stitch.  If preferred, the tiny leaves may be in solid embroidery.  For the violets bring the needle up at the center and put it down at the tip of petal, repeating until the five or six are formed, afterward filling the center with a French knot in heavy silk.  Baste the ribbon knots and streamers lightly in place and catch securely with sewing- or filo-silk of the same tint.  These ribbons are sometimes “couched,” that is, held in place by a short stitch crossing them at intervals of an inch or more, sometimes less.

For the sweet-peas but three or at most, four “stitches,” are employed.  The two – or one – in the center are first taken, then that on each side, spreading from the base.  The center petals are smaller and shorter.  The natural flower will help one very much in copying – as will an illustration from a seed-catalogue, even.  The flowers are of various colors, and combinations of colors, pink, blue, violet, and so on through the range of sweet-pea tintings.  The stems and tendrils are outlined with brown and green, the scrolls, vases and baskets done in the same stitch.

Two rows of hemstitching are carried around the square or, rather, the inner row does this, while the outer row, five inches from the first, extends from basket to basket, at each corner.  This portion of the work may be omitted at pleasure.

As has been intimated, it is practically impossible to fail of pleasing effect with this work, if the beginner is at all painstaking.  Commencing first with a small piece, perhaps a sachet or handkerchief-case, practise with a simple design – the daisy is easily worked in ribbon and readily obtained.  Each stitch forms a petal, and the center of the flower may be filled with French-knots.  There is no prettier decoration for any sort of fancy articles, such as are used for Christmas gifts; and the wise woman who enjoys making pretty things, and has comparatively little time at her disposal, will not fail to add ribbon-embroidery to her list of accomplishments.

The border is of heavy mercerized crochet-cotton, crochet-silk, or linen thread No. 25; the latter has a lustre which is lasting, and a crispness when worked that renders it very effective.  For the straight lace begin with a chain of 50 stitches, turn.

1.     Miss 13, 3 doubles in next 3 stitches, (chain 5, miss 5, 3 doubles) 3 times, chain 5, miss 5, 4 trebles, turn.

2.    Chain 11, miss 8 of chain , 3 trebles in next 3 stitches and 1 in 1^st of 4 trebles,*chain 5, a treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 4 times, turn.

3.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5) 3 times, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, *chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, turn.

4.    Like 2d row to *; (chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles, and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 3 times, turn.

5.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5) twice, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, a double under next chain) twice, 3 trebles and 1 double under same chain; like 3d row from *.

6.    Like 2d row to *; chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, (chain 5, shell of 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double under next chain) twice, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, chain 5, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) twice, turn.

7.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) twice, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, chain 5, 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double under next chain and 1 in 1^st of 4 trebles, turn.

8.    Chain 5, miss 3 trebles, treble in treble and 3 under chain. *(chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 3 times, turn.

9.    Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) 3 times, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, fasten in 5 chain, chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, turn.

10.  Like 8^th row to *; chain 5, 3 trebles under next chain and treble in treble, (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) 4 times, turn.

11.  Chain 7, (3 doubles under next chain, chain 5) 4 times, 4 trebles in space between 2 treble groups of last row, turn.

Repeat from 2drow for the straight lace.  When the corner is reached, repeat 2d and 3d rows of the pattern as usual.

4.  Like 4^th row of pattern, ending with (chain 5, 3 doubles under next chain) twice, turn.

5.  Chain 7, 3 doubles under 5 chain, chain 5, 4 trebles, and continue like 5^th row of pattern.

6.  Like 6^th across diamond, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

7.  Chain 7, treble in treble and 3 under chain, and continue like 7^th row.

8.  Like 8^th across diamond, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

9.  Chain 7, treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, continue same as 9^th row.

10.  Like 10^th, ending with the 2d group of 4 trebles, turn.

11.  Chain 7, 4 trebles in space between 2 groups of last row, turn.

12.  Like 2d row to *; chain 5, a treble in last of 4 trebles and 3 under chain, chain 5, 3 doubles in next loop, turn.

13.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under 5 chain and treble in treble, continue across diamond as in 3d row.

14.  Like 4^th across diamond; after last 4 trebles, chain 5, 3 doubles in loop (on the diamond last made, at beginning of 7^th row), turn

15.  Chain 5, 3 trebles under chain and treble in treble, work across diamond as in 5^th row.

16.  Work across diamond as in 6^th row, and after last 4 trebles in loop chain 5 and make 3 doubles in loop (at beginning of 5^th row in last point), turn.

17.  Chain 5, 3 doubles under chain last made, chain 5, miss 3 trebles, treble in treble and 3 under chain, and work across as in 7^th row.

18.  Like 9^th row, putting last 3 doubles in loop at beginning of 3drow in previous point.

19, 20, 21.  Like 9^th, 10^th, and 11^th rows, inclusive.

Finish the outer edge as follows:  After the last treble at end of 11^th row, chain 3, fasten in the space where the 4 trebles were made, *chain 3, and under the loop of 5 chain following make (2 doubles, picot of 5 chain) twice, 2 doubles under same chain, chain 3, fasten in the treble in which treble of preceding row was made, repeat fro *, then in the loop at point put (2 doubles, picot) 3 times, 2 doubles, *chain 3, fasten in top of treble next row back, chain 3, (2 doubles, picot) twice, 2 doubles, all in next loop, repeat from last *, then repeat the row.

 This is a very effective border for tea-cloths and similar articles, if made in heavy thread, and in finer thread for any trimming.

(Mrs. MacBey will answer all inquiries in regard to her work materials, samples, etc., if a self-addressed, stamped envelope is enclosed.)