“Dame Crump” in Filet Crochet

By Margaret M. Windon
1913 08 page 15

 

The size of this square when completed depends on the material used in making it.  Unbleached or gray linen thread No. 40 or No. 50, makes a handsome cover for a sofa-pillow, or crochet-cord may be used if preferred.  The great charm of filet-crochet lies in the evenness with which the stitches are placed, and their uniformity.  An excellent way to decide on the size which a certain thread will produce is to crochet a chain one inch long, counting the stitches; to determine the entire length of chain is then a mere question of multiplication.

Commence with a chain of 206 stitches, allowing for 67 spaces and 5 stitches to turn, for 1^st space.

1.      Miss 7 stitches, a treble in next, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble in next, forming a space) 66 times, turn.

2.     Chain 5, treble in next treble (this always for 1^st space), 195 trebles, 1 space, turn.

3.     Chain 5, 4 trebles in 4 trebles, (19 spaces, 10 trebles, counting all) twice, 19 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, turn.

4.     Chain 4, 4 trebles, 11 spaces, 25 trebles, 3 spaces, 58 trebles, 3 spaces, 25 trebles, 11 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, turn.

5.     Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 76 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 4 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, turn.

6.     Chain 5, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 10 trebles, 3 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 20 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, turn.

7.     Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles,3 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, *12 spaces, 22 trebles, 6 spaces, 13 trebles; work back from *, ending with 1 space.

8.     Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, *15 spaces, 25 trebles, 6 spaces; work back from *.

9.     Chain 5, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 13 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *5 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 22 spaces; work back from *.

10.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *10 trebles, 5 spaces, 25 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 6 spaces, 7 trebles; work back from *.

11.  Chain 5, 13 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *7 trebles, 6 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 6 spaces, 16 trebles, 15 spaces, 10 trebles; work back from *.

12.  Chain 5, 16 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *10 trebles, 5 spaces, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles, 11 spaces, 7 trebles; work back from *.

13.  Chain 5, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *7 trebles, 22 spaces, 16 trebles, 1 space, 31 trebles, 4 spaces, 10 trebles; work back from *.

14.  Chain 5, 16 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space. *10 trebles, 16 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 1 space, 13 trebles, 16 spaces, 7 trebles; work back from *.

15.  Chain 5, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *1 space, 10 trebles, 11 spaces, 25 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 8 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 3 spaces; work back from *.

16.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 22 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, turn.

17.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 11 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space)

18.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 10 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 7 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, turn.

19.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 3 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, (4 spaces, 7 trebles) twice, 6 spaces, 16 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, turn.

20.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 37 trebles, 11 spaces, 28 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, turn.

21.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles) twice, 6 spaces, 64 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 5 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, turn.

22.  Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 12 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 40 trebles, 6 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, turn.

23.  Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces, 13 trebles, 5 spaces, 22 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 5 times, 1 space, 13 trebles, 12 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, turn.

24.  Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 12 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 8 times, 1 space, 10 trebles, 6 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 8 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, turn.

25.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 10 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 8 times, 1 space, 7 trebles, 9 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, (7 trebles, 1 space) twice, turn.

26.  Chain 5, (7 trebles, 1 space) twice, 13 trebles, 8 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 7 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) 3 times, 7 trebles, 8 spaces, 10 trebles, 5 spaces, 13 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 1 space, turn.

27.  Chain 5, (7 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *4 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 7 trebles, 6 spaces, 19 trebles, (a space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 7 spaces; work back from *.

28.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 4 spaces, 7 trebles, *7 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 37 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces; work back from *, ending with 1 space.

29.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 7 trebles, *6 spaces, 4 trebles, 8 spaces, 43 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 7 spaces; work back from *.

30.  Like 29^th row to *; 7 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 43 trebles, 8 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces; like 29^th back from *.

31.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 4 spaces, 10 trebles, *15 spaces, 43 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 7 spaces; work back from *.

32.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 13 trebles, *7 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 48 trebles, 15 spaces; work back from *.

33.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 16 trebles, *17 spaces, 43 trebles, (a space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 8 spaces; work back from *.

34.  Chain 5, 28 trebles, 9 spaces, 7 trebles, (a space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 43 trebles, 17 spaces, 28 trebles, 1 space, turn.

35.  Chain 5, 22 trebles, 19 spaces, 43 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 11 spaces, 22 trebles, 1 space, turn.

36.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, *10 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 19 trebles, 1 space, 25 trebles, 18 spaces; work back from *.

37.  Chain 5, 13 trebles, 22 spaces, 25 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 14 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, turn.

38.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 17 spaces, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 19 trebles, 1 space, 25 trebles, 25 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, turn.

39.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 17 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces, 16 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 19 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 7 trebles, 16 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, turn.

40.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 10 spaces, *7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 1 space, 16 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles; work back from *.

41.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, *7 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, (1 space, 13 trebles) twice, (1 space, 4 trebles) 3 times, 8 spaces; work back from *.

42.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 8 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, *8 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) 3 times, (13 trebles, 1 space) twice, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, (2 spaces, 4 trebles) twice, 7 spaces; work back from *.

43.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *8spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 3 times, 9 spaces; work back from *.

44.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 3 spaces, 16 trebles, *8 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles. 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces; work back (always from *).

45.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, *10 spaces, 4 trebles, 7 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 10 spaces; work back, ending always with 1 space.

46.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 9 spaces, *(4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles; work back.

47.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, (2 spaces, 4 trebles) twice, 11 spaces, *4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 22 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 7 trebles; work back.

48.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, *14 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) 3 times, 34 trebles, 3 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 13 spaces; work back.

49.  Like 48^th to *; 14 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 3 times, 14 spaces; work back.

50.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 13 spaces, *(4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles; work back.

51.   Chain 5, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 7 trebles, 12 spaces, *4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 3 times; work back.

52.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 8 spaces, *(4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, 6 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles; work back.

53.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *7 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 13 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) 3 times, 9 spaces; work back.

54.  Chain 5, (10 trebles, 1 space) twice, 19 trebles, *8 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 22 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 8 spaces; work back.

55.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 22 trebles, *9 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 28 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 10 spaces; work back.

56.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 3 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *10 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 31 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 9 spaces; work back.

57.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, *14 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 1 space, 19 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 15 spaces; work back.

58.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, *15 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 13 spaces; work back.

59.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, *12 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles, 4 spaces, 16 trebles, 14 spaces; work back.

60.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, *14 spaces, 16 trebles, 4 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 12 spaces; work back.

61.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, *13 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 14 spaces; work back.

62.  Chain 5, (7 trebles, 1 space) twice, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 4 trebles, *13 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 11 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 pace, 7 trebles, 1 space.

63.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 10 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 5 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 11 spaces; work back fro * in 62d row.

64.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 11 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, (1 space, 7 trebles) twice, 1 space, turn.

65.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, *8 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 6 spaces, 13 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles, 12 spaces; work back.

66.  Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 10 spaces, 10 trebles, 17 spaces, 4 trebles, 5 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) 3 times, turn.

67.  Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 13 spaces, *19 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles; work back.

68.   Chain 5, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, *17 spaces, 31 trebles, 14 spaces; work back.

69.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, (2 spaces, 4 trebles) twice, *12 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 19 spaces; work back.

70.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, *4 spaces, 4 trebles, 14 spaces, 13 trebles, 3 spaces, 19 trebles, 11 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces; work back.

71.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *4 spaces, 4 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, (1 space, 4 trebles) twice, 10 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 5 spaces; work back.

72.  Like 71^st to *; 6 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 10 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles,1 space, 10 trebles, 4 spaces, 7 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces; work back.

73.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 9 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 19 trebles, 12 spaces, 7 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 3 spaces; work back.

74.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, *4 spaces, 19 trebles, 12 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 22 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces; 2o4k back.

75.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, (4 trebles, 1 space) twice, 7 trebles, *4 spaces, 4 trebles, 9 spaces, 4 trebles, 5 spaces, 19 trebles, 9 spaces, 16 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space; work back.

76.  Chain 5, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *2 spaces, 13 trebles, 11 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 25 trebles, 14 spaces; work back.

77.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *14 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 10 spaces, 10 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 1 space; work back.

78.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 5 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 10 spaces 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 16 spaces; work back.

79.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, *15 spaces, 19 trebles, 16 spaces; work back.

80.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *10 trebles, 17 spaces, 10 trebles, 13 spaces, 16 trebles; work back.

81.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 3 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, *13 trebles, 32 spaces, 10 trebles; work back.

82.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 6 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, *29 spaces; work back.

83.  Chain 5, 28 trebles, 4 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, *25 spaces; work back.

84.  Chain 5, 10 trebles, 1 space, 13 trebles, 6 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, *19 spaces; work back.

85.  Chain 5, 7 trebles, 1 space, 10 trebles, 1 space, 7 trebles, 7 spaces, 7 trebles, 7 spaces, 7 trebles, 2 spaces, *76 trebles; work back.

86.  Chain 5, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 7 trebles, 8 spaces, 7 trebles, 3 spaces, *58 trebles; work back.

87.  Same as 3d row.

88.  Same as 2d row.

89.  Same as 1^st row, all spaces.

This completes the square.  To it may be added any border desired, more or less elaborate, or fringe may be knotted in.  The simple scallop of the model makes a pretty finish, and is worked as follows:

1.      Fasten in at the corner space, make a shell of 4 double trebles (chain 4 for 1^st), 2 chain and 4 double trebles in the space, fasten in next space with 1 double, *miss 1 space, shell in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next, chain 2, fasten in next; repeat from * around, making a shell in corner space and fastening in the space each side to give the necessary fulness.

2.     Make 2 trebles between 3d and 4^th double trebles of corner shell, chain 1, shell of 3 trebles, 1 chain and 3 trebles under 2 chain in center of shell, chain 1, 2 trebles between 6^th and 7^th double trebles, a treble in the fastening double, *work over next shell as directed, 4 trebles under 2 chain, repeat, working the corners like 1^st corner.

3.     Chain 3, miss 1, fasten; repeat around, missing 2 stitches in depth of scallop to prevent too much fulness.

This is a quaint and charming design for filet-darning, on netting, or it may be cross-stitched.

 

 

 

Needlecrafters’ Own Page

Conducted by Our Readers
1913 08, page 14

 

This department has been urgently requested.  It is intended as a clearing-house of ideas – a sort of “give-and-get” club, every member of which is privileged to ask for any desired article of needlework with explicit instructions for making, and in her turn to give, as opportunity offers.  Requests for such work as the editor herself is able to supply will not be printed, but the articles asked for shall appear in due season.  Let us all be glad to give as well as get, and thus aid in making The Needlecrafters’ Own Page the most helpful and delightful part of the paper.

Double-Fan Insertion

By Mrs. Sarah A. Griffith

Cast on 38 stitches, and knit across once.

1.      Slip 1, knit 1, over, narrow, *knit 8, over 3 times, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 9, **over, narrow, knit 1.

2.     Edge (that is, like 1^st row to *); purl 8, make 6 stitches in the 3 “overs” by (purl 1, knit 1) three times, purl 14, again make 6 stitches in the three overs, purl 9; edge (that is, like 1^st row from **).

3.     Edge; (narrow, knit 18) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

4.     Edge; purl 40; edge

5.     Edge; narrow, knit 5, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 6, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 1; edge.

6.     Edge; purl 51; edge.

7.     Edge; (narrow, knit 22) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

8.     Edge; purl 48; edge.

9.     Edge; narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 4, narrow, knit 5, over, knit 3, narrow, knit 1; edge.

10.  Edge; purl 45; edge.

11.  Edge; (narrow, knit 19) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

12.  Edge; purl 42; edge.

13.  Edge; knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knot 9 together, over, knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together. Knit 1; edge.

14.  Edge; purl 30; edge.

15.  Edge; knit 15, over, knit 15; edge.

16.  Edge; purl 31; edge.

Repeat from 2d row.

In crochet-cord or knitting-cotton this makes a wide and handsome stripe for a counterpane, to be finished with a border of lace having a single row of fans.

 

 

Hexagon for Bedspread, Diamond Pattern

By Mrs. A. L. Montgomery

 

Use crochet-cord, white or cream-color, as preferred; No. 25 linen thread, or finer, makes a very handsome spread.

Commence with a chain of 8 stitches, join.

1.      Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 23 trebles in ring, join to top of 3 chain.

2.     A single between 3 chain and 1^st treble, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 2, 2 trebles in same place, *chain 2, miss 4 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between next 2; repeat from * 4 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

3.     Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3, 1 treble, 2 chain and 2 trebles in same shell, *chain 2, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain as before.

4.     Commencing with 1^st shell as in preceding row (do this every row), make shell in shell, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

5.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row, always) chain 2, tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

6.     Shell in shell, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2, treble in chain preceding the trebles of last row, a treble in each treble, 1 in chain following, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

7, 8, 9, 10, 11.  Same as 6^th row, increasing the trebles between the tuft-stitches by 2 each row, or by 3 if found necessary, to keep the work perfectly flat.

The hexagon may be made as large as desired; one has simply to continue increasing as directed.  Finished with a lace border, when of required size, it makes a very handsome centerpiece.  Indeed, an entire set of mats, large and small, may be made in the same way, and numerous used will be found for the pattern.  In making a bedspread join the hexagons either with single crochet or by means of needle and thread, matching the portions exactly and making the joining as invisible as possible.  By having your crochet-work in a convenient place where it can be caught up for a few minutes’ work now and then, a sufficient number of hexagons for a handsome p of spread will be completed almost before you are aware. 

Tuft-stitch is made as follows:  Make 7 trebles under 2 chain, drop the top loop of last treble, insert hook in top of 1^st treble made, pick up the dropped loop and draw through, then chain 2, and continue.  The 7 trebles are thus closely joined to form a cluster or tuft.

Another diamond hexagon, simple and pretty, is made in much the same way.  Chain 8, join.

1.      Chain 3, a treble in ring, *chain 2, 2 trebles in ring, repeat from * 10 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain.  There will be 12 groups of 2 trebles, each separated by 2 chain.

2.     Slip-stitch to 2 chain, chain 3, a treble under chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under next chain, chain 2, shell under next; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain to top of 3 chain.

3.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row of first hexagon), chain 2, 2 trebles in each treble of last row, chain 2; repeat.

4.     Shell in shell, chain 2, 2 trebles in 1^st treble following, treble in each treble following with 2 in last, chain 2; repeat.

5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.  Same as 4^th row, making shell in shell with 2 chain each side, and increasing the trebles between shells by putting 2 in 1^st and last, with treble in treble between.  Continue until the hexagon is of the size desired.

Remember that the beauty of a spread formed of these hexagons depends largely on the neatness and exactness with which the joining is done.  The centers of shells must meet, and also each stitch between, the needle passing through a treble of each hexagon at the same time.  Do not draw the thread too tightly, whether you use a sewing-needle or crochet-hook; but bring the stitches firmly together so that the diamonds will have the appearance of having been made whole, treble meeting treble as if one had been worked in another.

Either hexagon, but the way, increased in size as required and fashioned of suitable material, will make a handsome, serviceable cover for organ- or piano-stool.

Elephant in Filet-Crochet

By Lady English

As arranged, this design makes a very pleasing inset for children’s towels, scarf for a child’s room, or other similar article.  One mother, who delights in interesting her little people and making their room pleasant and attractive, has a different inset or insertion – representing animals or birds – for each towel.  The same designs may be cross-stitched if desired, reversing the method of copying a cross-stitch pattern in filet- or block-crochet; that is, the space filled with trebles is cross-stitched, open spaces left plain.

Use linen thread No. 50 – finer if desired – and make a chain of 81 stitches.

1.      Miss 7, 1 treble in next stitch, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble in next, forming a space) 24 times, turn.

2.     Chain 5, a treble in next treble, (2 in space and 1 in treble) 23 times, making 70 trebles in all, chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, forming the last space, turn.

3.     Chain 5, 4 trebles in 4 trebles (as the beginning of every row is the same to this point we will simply call this “edge”, hereafter), 21 spaces, then the edge of 4 trebles (counting all), chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, turn.

4.     Edge; 21 spaces; edge.

5.     Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

6.     Edge; 6 spaces, 7 trebles, 13 spaces, edge.

7.     Edge, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

8.     Edge; 5 spaces, 43 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

9.     Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 37 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

10.  Edge; 4 spaces, 46 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

11.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 34 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

12.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

13.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

14.  Edge; 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

15.  Edge; 2 spaces, 34 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

16.  Edge; 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 28 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

17.  Edge; 6 spaces, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

18.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

19.  Edge; 7 spaces, 37 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

20.  Edge; 3 spaces, 34 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

21.   Edge; 2 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 28 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

22.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

23.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles 19 spaces, 19 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

24.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

25.  Edge; 3 spaces 4 trebles, 3 spaces, (10 trebles, 1 space) twice, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

26.  Edge; 3 spaces, 25 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

27.  Edge; 8 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

28, 29, 30.  Edge; 21 spaces; edge.  If desired additional rows of spaces may be made between the motifs.

31.  Same as 27^th row.

32.  Same as 26^th row.

Continue in this way to repeat the first motif, reversing the order of rows or working backward.  The 56^th row will be the same as the 2d row, after which a row of spaces entirely across the pattern finished the inset.

To strengthen the edge it is a good plan to work around it in the “buttonhole-crochet” or double stitch, putting 2 doubles into each space with double in treble; at corners make 7 doubles in the space to turn.

Having hemstitched your towel or scarf, apply the inset evenly, about one inch (or as desired) above the hem, and at equal distance from each side, cutting the linen from beneath and felling back securely.

Directions are given for working the motif crosswise; if, however, it is desire to make the inset exactly as shown, it may be worked lengthwise.  To do this, commence with a chain of 176 stitches.

1.      All spaces, 57 in all, commencing as in 1^st row of the crosswise work

2.     Same as 2d row above, making 166 trebles, with a space at each end of row.

3, 4.  Edge; 53 spaces; edge.

5.      Edge; 4 spaces, 10 trebles, *11 spaces; work back from * to beginning of row.

The pattern can be so easily continued in length that it does not seem necessary to give directions in detail.

 

 

Man’s Knitted Silk Sock

By Mrs. A. K. Mansfield

 

 

Use knitting-silk of any desired color; if you knit tightly, use No. 16 steel needles, if loosely, No. 17 or No. 18.

Cast 108 stitches on one needle, as it is easiest to do this, then knit 38 stitches off on the 1^st needle, 36 on the 2d, and 34 on the 3d, and to join the stocking knit 2 stitches from 1^st needle on to the last, which will give you 36 stitches on each needle.

Knit once around plain, then knit 2 and purl 2 for 50 rounds, forming the ribbed or garter top.

The plain knitting is now commenced with the back needle, the one where the end of silk shows at the joining of the top of sock.

1.      Knit 18, make a stitch by knitting in the back of this center stitch, thus making 2 stitches of 1, knit 18, and knit the rest of the round plain.  On the back needle you now have 37 stitches, with 36 on each of the other two.  This extra stitch is the center stitch of the sock, and must be purled in every round.

2 to 39.  Knit plain, always purling the 19^th stitch on back needle.

40.  Knit 15, narrow, knit 1, purl the center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 15; knit remaining two needles plain.

41 to 47.  Knit plain, always purling the center stitch.

48.  Knit 14, narrow, knit 1, purl center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 14; knit other two needles plain.

Repeat from 41^st row, decreasing on the back needle every 8^th round as directed, until you have completed the 88^th round, in which you have 23 stitches remaining on the back needle, or 95 stitches in all.  Knit 42 rounds plain, without decreasing, but purling always the center stitch on the back needle.

For the heel:  Knit to end of back needle, and from the first side needle (the next needle) knit 13 stitches off on to the back needle.  Knit the remaining 23 stitches from 1^st side needle on to another needle, and knit the second side needle to within 13 stitches of the end.  These 13 stitches you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting.  You now should have 49 stitches on the heel, and 23 on each side needle.  These two front needles are not use again until the heel is completed.

1.     Slip 1^st stitch, purl 23, knit center stitch, purl 24.

2.     Slip 1^st stitch, knit 23, purl center stitch, knit 24.

Repeat these two rows until the heel is long enough, or for 38 rows.  In the 38^th row, when you get to the center, purl 2 together; this ends the center stitch and leaves 48 stitches on your needle.

To round off the heel: Knit 31, narrow, turn work, purl 15 purl 2 together, turn knit 15, narrow, and repeat from * until you have 16 stitches remaining on your needle.  Now with the needle on which you have the 16 stitches pick up and knit 24 stitches along the side of the heel, knit 5 stitches from the front needle on the same; knit all the stitches from the two front needles on to another needle except the last five; knit these 5 stitches on to a third needle, take up and knit 24 stitches down side of heel, and knit off 8 stitches from the first needle on to the third.  You will now have 37 stitches on each side needle and 36 on the front.

Knit once around plain; when you come to the first side needle again, knit that plain to within 7 stitches of the end (that is, knit 30 stitches plain), narrow, knit 5; knit plain across front needle; on third needle (or second side needle) knit 5, slip and bind, knit rest plain.  *Knit two rounds without decreasing, again knit first side needle to within 7 stitches of end, narrow, knit 5, knit across front needle, knit 5 on next needle, slip and bind, knit rest plain, and repeat from * until you have reduced to 29 stitches on each side needle.

Knit plain until the foot is as long as desired’ probably 90 rounds will be sufficient, which will give a length of nine and one-half inches, including the heel.

To narrow the toe: Put as many stitches on the front needle as you have on both the others together; that is, take 6 stitches from one side needle and 5 from the other, and place them on the front needle, making 47 stitches on that, and leaving 23 stitches on one and 24 on the other side needle.  Commence the toe on the front needle thus: *Knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on first back needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit rest plain; on 2d back needle knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; knit 2 rounds plain; repeat from * until you have 44 stitches – more or less according to size of stocking – left on all the needles; then knit front and back stitches together and bind off, fastening securely.  Any other method of narrowing that is preferred may be chosen, but this makes a neat toe.

These direction may be used for cotton or worsted socks, using fewer stitches and needles of size proportioned to the coarser material.  Having knitted one pair of the socks no one will find any difficulty in varying the size as required.

No more acceptable gift to a brother or father could be devised than a pair of these handknit, durable half-hose; and the work of making them is not at all tedious.  Two and one-half ounces of knitting-silk should be sufficient.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Practical Garments for Warm Weather

1913 08 page 13

Misses’ Middy Dress

The middy blouse has held its own successfully through many seasons, and this model, No. 6318, shows it brought up to date.  The blouse fits neatly at the shoulders, and is loose at the waist.  It ends in a band at the hops.  There is, of course, no opening except the small V at the neck, and here there is a small shield that is removable.  A sailor-collar finishes the neck, and band cuffs complete the sleeves.

The three-gore skirt has a panel front, and the closing is placed at one side of this.

Linen, duck and pique are the materials most often used for these suits, but cotton Bedford cord is also seen, and ratine, poplin and serge.  There is no reason why wash-silk should not also be pressed into service, as the style is distinctly a tub one.

The dress-pattern, No. 6318, is cut in sizes for 14, 16 and 18 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 5 1/8 yards of 36-inch material, with 5/8 of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Girls’ Dress

The coat-suit has made such a hit for little girls that this model, No. 6315, will be a welcome one.  The blouse is a coat, cut on sacque-lines, and closing in the center of the front.  The drop-shoulder is used, and the sleeves are three-quarter length.  The neck is finished with a pretty turnover collar.  With the coat there is worn a two-piece skirt, quite plain and scant.  This may be of the same material as the coat, or it may differ in color and texture.

Linen, lawn, gingham, pique, voile, ratine, etc., are all used for these suits.

The dress-pattern, No. 6315, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 2 3/4 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Child’s Dress

Very little maids will look dainty and sweet in this pretty frock, No. 6395.  It is made with the long body of the French style, so becoming to the little folk.  The neck is cut square, and is outlined with a band of insertions.  At each side, at the shoulders, there is a group of fine tucks, which are only a few inches in length, but which provide ample fulness for the blouse.  The same arrangement is used in the back, and here the closing is placed in the center.  There is a very short skirt in one piece, attached to the blouse beneath a belt.

White batiste, lawn, or cambric are all pretty for this frock, and the more delicate colors may also be used.

The dress-pattern, No. 6295, is cut in sizes for 2, 4 and 6 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 1 7/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Girls’ Dress

A variation of the popular coat-suits for little girls is shown in this illustration, No. 6311.  The outer blouse is a coat, and this closes at the left side of the front.  The neck is finished with a small collar, and there is a leather belt at the waist.  Under this coat there is a four-gore skirt.  This is attached to a sleeveless underwaist, and opens in the center of the back.

These suits are made of poplin, linen, pique, ratine, gingham, cambric, and the like.

The dress-pattern, No. 6311, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 1/4 yards of 36-inch material for the dress and 1/2 yard of 36-inch lining for the underwaist.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Child’s One-Piece Dress

This little frock, No. 6301, is one of the comfortable models, which are made in one piece, with a single seam running along the under side of the sleeve and down the underarm portion of the dress.  The neck is low, and the sleeves are short.  To complete the dress there are bloomers, and these are attached to an underwaist.

No dress could be better for play-time than this one, which does away with all need of underclothing of easily soiled white.  Good gingham, percale, chambray and similar fabrics are the most appropriate.

The dress-pattern, No. 6301, is cut in sizes for 2, 4, 6 and 8 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 yards of 27- or 36-inch material for dress and bloomers, and 3/8 of a yard of 36-inch material for lining.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

Odds and Ends in Dress

1913 08, page 12

Beyond any shadow of doubt the most important accessory of dress for the woman of to-day is found in her neck-wear arrangements.  She cannot go far astray in waist or skirt, for the ready-made dresses and the designs of the leading paper-pattern firms will keep her correctly attired in this respect, but it is the little things that show the woman who thinks, and who will not have any detail out of the picture.  And so the first consideration is the arrangement of the neck.

Making a tour of the women’s neckwear departments in the leading department-stores of any large city is the best way of getting at the thought of the woman of the moment.   In New York, “where the styles come from” we find a decided preference for low styles.  So strong is the preference in this direction that we find only a small number of examples of any other kind.  This is in direct contradiction to the indications of the earlier season.

The collars of embroidered batiste in ecru and a slightly lighter shade are perhaps the best liked.  Indeed they are really hard to get at all, at this late date.  Some of them are plain and hand-embroidered, and others are put together with little beading hardly wider than a vein in a leaf.  These collars come in sets with cuffs, and often with a hip-belt as well.  The low-waisted Balkan styles brought this last into evidence, and the use of a belt to match the collar was a novelty that met with instant favor.  Fancy eponge was also used in the same manner and, like batiste, it is all but unobtainable at present.

Low collars with fichu-jabots are also liked.  Those which are made of embroidered or plain net are best liked.  The Martha Washington type, made of plain chiffon is the winner among fichus, and as a direct opposite of this type we find the high Medici collar.  This is shown in many modifications.  There is the very high collar, closely resembling the original model, then there are smaller editions, which leave an opening at the front and are only a couple of inches high, and wired so that the upper edge may be rolled a trifle away from the neck.  The lace frill which edges many a neck-opening is another variation of the Medici idea.  Sometimes this lace is wired along the edges, and sometimes it is allowed to fall softly as it will.  It rarely falls becomingly, however, so the idea of wiring it and thus controlling it is a wise one.

The Elizabethan ruff is not exactly a novelty, for it has been used in past seasons as a boa, but it is now made of malines, net or chiffon, and is made an integral part of the dress, wired, and arranged to stand up in the Medici fashion.  Maline ruffs are very popular, and as we have had so much cool weather this summer, they gave continued in evidence in the shops, as well as on women.  Saxe-blue, and the new sand-yellow are much used in the newer ruffs.

Guimpes, with high collars and without, are holding their own.  There are many women who do not boast a neck fit for public exhibition, who are too wise to expose it in the low styles of the hour, and these still insist upon a high collar on the guimpe, and the long sleeve often accompanies it.  Indeed, no matter how pretty the arm may be, it does not look well bare as a rule, unless we except the styles of real evening wear, which display the arm for some distance above the elbow.

In the new low effects in guimpes we find them finished at the sides and back with the Medici and Elizabethan ruffs.  It is not uncommon to find fancy allover lace or net used for the body-portion, and plain net for the frill or ruche.  One highly novel guimpe has a high neck, but is designed and trimmed to have a low or V-neck effect.

Plaitings and frillings are used a great deal on all neck-trimmings, and indeed they are a very popular article in all points of dress.  In fact a ruching craze seems to have struck the town.  Plaited tulle ruchings, about two inches in width are basted in long sleeves both of waists and of coats, and also in the neck and down the front of tailored coats.  Many costumes have the low neck of the bodice finished with these plaitings.  In addition to the flat side plaitings in tulle, rose plaitings and fluted trimmings of net and tulle are in evidence.

No costume ever looks its best unless the hat be given a finishing touch with a smart face-veil.  The governing note in the best class of veilings lies in the preference for neat meshes, and for conservative separated designs.  Hexagon, craquele, and the filet meshes are liked, and make a good background for other designs.

Inquiring of a saleswoman, the answer came: “Hexagons are selling by the mile.  No matter what a customer buys, she is sure to want a hexagon as well.”  While the liking at present is beyond doubt for neat square patterns on simple meshes, there is a tendency toward larger patterns and more intricate meshes.  If hats become larger this winter, this taste will undoubtedly increase, but all depends on the milliner.

Colored veilings are somewhat worn, but not extensively.  White is the all-important color.  Novelty-veilings are worn by the very fashionable, but these require frequent changes, as they are always striking and cannot be worn too continuously.  There is one veil which is called the frame veil.  This is made with a large wreath or other design, which is so placed as to form a frame for the face when the veil is worn.  The effect is unique, but unless one has a more than ordinarily attractive face the attention is draws is apt to be trying, as people do not seem to care whether or not their remarks in criticism are overheard by the wearer.

It is hardly worth while at this late date to announce the popularity of ribbon.  The vogue of sashes has done much for this popularity.  Numerous as are the weaves, moire leads in favor, and we also see numbers of velvet ribbons and of failles.  Fancy warp prints and velours novelties are worn, and there is one ribbon which shows a fancy stripe of ratine.

The brassiere, bust-bodice, or soutien-gorge, as it is variously called, is one of the most important articles of a woman’s underneath to-day.  As the vogue for corsets cut very low around the top has increased, so the bust-bodice has become an essential addition to every figure that is not of the slimmest description.  And how splendidly the brassiermakers have come to Dame Fashion’s aid in the matter, producing and perfecting any number of beautifully shaped bust-bodices.  Of late the fashion of very transparent blouses has further complicated the bust-bodice question, making it essential for us all to possess a few daintily trimmed models.  So at last we have the ideal style, molding the figure into slim lines, and at the same time, by its dainty appearance, rendering a slip unnecessary in warm weather.

We now have these brassieres opening in the front as well as in the back, cut to show a round neck, a V-shaped neck, or a square neck, as desired, and each and all of these in high, medium and low effects.  Then there is the little support that merely crosses the bosom, giving support and preventing any give at this point, greatly to the comfort of the wearer as well as to an improved appearance.

Excellent Models for Useful Garments

1913 08 page 12

Ladies’ Combination

Corset-cover and short petticoat are combined in this design, No. 6310.  Both open in front, and are joined together at the waistline.  The corset-cover is plain, and will make no wrinkles to show through the outer garments.  The neck is low, and there are no sleeves of any kind.  The petticoat fits snugly at all points, and has just fulness enough at the lower edge for the comfort of the wearer.

These garments are now made things of beauty by a clever selection of materials.  Crepe de Chine in the lighter qualities is the favorite fabric, and after this a very fine and sheer batiste or handkerchief-cambric, with insertions of Valenciennes lace or of Cluny.  Colored ribbons are run through beadings, and the fashionable woman chooses these to match or at least to harmonize with the tones of her outer costume.

The pattern, No. 6310, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the combination in the medium size will require 1 5/8 yards of 45-inch material, 3 7/8 yards of insertion, 3 1/2 yards of beading, 4 7/8 yards of ribbon, 2 yards of wide edging, and 5 1/4 yards of narrow edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Work-Apron and Cap

The woman who wears this costume, No. 6300, when working, will certainly look as charming as in any other style.  The apron has a plain blouse, slightly full at the waistline.  The closing is in the back.  The neck is cut out in a small round outline, and the sleeves have a suspicion of fulness at the shoulder where they are inserted.  They end just below the elbow.  The skirt-portion of the apron has a wee bit of fulness at the belt, and is attached to the blouse beneath a belt.  There are two patch-pockets on the sides of the front.

This apron may be worn over the dress, or it may replace it, as it resembles a dress as much as it does any apron.  The most appropriate materials are gingham, cambric, calico, and the like, and colored wash-braids may be used as trimming, binding all free edges, and forming the belt.

The apron-pattern, No. 6300, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 4 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Maternity-Gown

This gown, No. 6289, offers great comfort to the prospective mother, and at the same time will preserve her appearance to the last.  It is made with a body lining, which should be of something good and heavy, such, for instance as unbleached muslin, or sateen.  The fronts and the darts must be boned and then the edges can be laced, instead of being stitched together, and eased as desired from time to time.

The outer portion of the garment is very pretty, with a shaped Empire yoke, cut down low in front and finished with an ornamental collar.  The lower portion of the gown is arranged in two box plaits in front, and these have plenty of give to them, and can be readjusted as needed.  In the back there is an underturned box plait; and this, also, is large enough to give plenty of plan in the material.

These gowns can be made of all wash-materials, and cotton crepe is among the best.  Figured sateen is also good, and of course the figured and plain Japanese silks and satins, and the various soft crepe fabrics are also desirable.

The gown-pattern, No. 6289, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 6 3/8 yards of 36-nch material, 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch trimming for collar and sleeves, and 1 1/8 yards of 36-inch lining.  Width of lower edge, 3 1/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.