Welcome to my blog about Home Arts Needlecraft Magazine! I "discovered" this publication about 2 years ago and fell in love with it to the extent that I had to start collecting issues as I ran across them. The magazine began publication with its September, 1909 premier issue, and continued through March, 1941. It has been interesting to follow the changes through the 30 plus years the magazine was published. It is a great source for needlework, fashion, recipes and short stories. Through my journey of sharing my issues online, I hope to discover a pattern of what was popular in different forms of needlecraft over the 3 decades. I hope you enjoy my blog as much as I am (so far!) enjoying posting articles and projects from the issues. Thanks for visiting!

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Practical, Perfect Fitting Garments


January, 1912
page 14


Ladies’ Sailor Dress
     The youthfulness of the popular sailor-dress makes it ever a favorite.  No type of gowning is so generally becoming to the miss or young woman, and the classy number shown in design No. 5471, will find many advocates.
     The garment has the regulation middy-blouse waist, with large sailor-collar.  Plaits over each shoulder are stitched to about bust-depth, where they are released, providing the necessary fullness.  The back is perfectly plain.  The sleeves are three-quarter length models, with turnback cuffs.
     The chemisette is detachable, so dress may be worn with or without the yoke and collar.
     The skirt is in five gores, with panel back.  The costume closes the entire length of the front.
     This dress may be made of serge, with silk collar and cuffs or, if a wash-dress is preferred, linen, pique, madras or chambray may be used.
     The pattern, No. 5471, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 7 5/8 yards of 27-inch, 5 ½ yards of 36-inch, or 4 5/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





Ladies’ Shirtwaist Costume
    An attractive model for a shirtwaist costume is here shown, illustration No. 5118 and No. 5132.
    The waist of this costume is cut on kimono lines, having body and upper part of sleeve in one.  The absence of fullness makes it especially desirable for a tailored model.  The neckband admits of any-style collar being worn, and the cuffs are the regulation, mannish style.  A pocket on the left side front, gives a jaunty addition.   The waist closes visibly down the front, through a center box plait.
    The skirt is cut in nine gores, and can be made in round or ankle length.  The front gore gives the panel-effect, and there is an inverted box plait at the back.
    For business wear, a costume of this nature is serviceable and practical.  The waist and skirt can be made of the same material, or of separate goods.
    For instance, the waist can be developed in madras, flannelette, or silk, to be worn with the skirt fashioned of Henrietta, panama, or serge.  An all-serge costume would be nice, or one of linen, if preferred.
    The waist-pattern, No. 5118, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/8 yards of 36-, or 1 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
    The skirt-pattern, No 5132, is cut in sizes from 22 to 36 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 4 ¾ yards of 36-, or 3 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.




Shirtwaist Dressing-Sacque
    Something new in dressing-sacque is the shirtwaist model, which is not so negligee as the usual type, and is chic and stylish-looking.
    As an illustration of this new idea in house-waists, No. 4361 presents an attractive suggestion.
    This garment is made along the regular shirtwaist lines.  Two plaits on each side of the front regulate the fullness.  The back is perfectly plain.
    The sleeves are fuller than the regular shirtwaist-sleeve, and are finished with a neat puritan cuff.  At the bottom of the waist is attached a straight peplum, joined to the belt.
    The pattern provides for two styles of sacque, so either can be obtained, the sacque with tucked front and plain sleeve as illustrated, or one with plain front and bishop sleeve.  Both have standing collar, but the bishop sleeve has a band cuff.
    The pattern, No, 4361, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the sacque in the medium size will require 3 3/8 yards of 27-inch, or 2 ½ yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.






Children’s Apron
    This pretty little apron, illustration No. 2654, can also be used as a dress for the little girl.  Worn over the frock, it affords excellent protection, as it fastens up close to the neck at front, and covers the undergarment entirely at the back.
    The front of the apron is plain, and hangs loose from the shoulders.  There are two large pockets which relived the plainness.
    At the back the garment is gathered to a square yoke.  The apron buttons from the neck to the waistline, but the backs lap the rest of the length, in closed-effect.
    The full bishop sleeves are finished with a neat band cuff, edged with narrow lace, or a ruffle of the material.  The divided rolling collar is similarly treated.
    A sash and bow tie at the back complete the little garment.
    Gingham, madras, or percale may be used.
    The pattern, NO, 2654, is cut in sizes for from 2 to 12 years.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, or 2 5/8 yards of goods 36 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





Ladies’ Work-Apron
    Something new and attractive in work-aprons for kitchen or studio is shown in design No. 5292.
    The apron has the new princesse panel at front.  There are two large pockets which are stitched where front and sides are joined.  The closing at the back is accomplished by straps which cross over the waist, and fasten on the shoulders.
    There is a certain swagger cut about this apron, which distinguishes it from ordinary garments of the same nature.
    Gingham is the best material to use, and the yoke and pockets may be trimmed with cotton braid of a corresponding color to give a touch of embellishment.
    The pattern, No. 5292, is cut in sizes for 32, 36, 40 and 44 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 4 ¾ yards of 27-inch, or 3 ¾ yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Pretty and Easy-to-Make Garments

January, 1912
page 11
 
Girls’ Sailor- or Middy-Dress
     No more popular style of dress has ever been designed than the sailor-dress, a splendid model of which is illustrated in No. 5674.
     This jaunty little costume will give much service to the young miss, and for a school-dress no nicer style could be selected.
     The blouse is made in regulation Peter Thompson style, with a yoke and large, square sailor-collar, trimmed with parallel rows of white braid.  An embroidered anchor and jaunty silk tie add an effective touch.  The sleeves are plaited at the cuffs.
     The shield is attached to an underwaist, to which the skirt is also attached.  The collar is finished with rows fo white braid.  The extra-full side-plaited skirt has a box plait in front, and is finished with a deep hem.
     The blouse may be worn either inside or outside of skirt.
     Serge in navy-blue, with white yoke and collar, or in black, with red collar and trimming, would be appropriate.  For a wash-dress galatea is a good suggestion.
     The pattern, No. 5674, is cut in sizes from girls from 6 to 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, or 3 1/8 yards of 44-inch goods.  Four and one-half yards of braid are also needed.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
 
Boy’s Russian Suit
     No style of garment for the small boy is so becoming as the Russian suite, a type out of the ordinary being presented in No. 2232.
     The blouse is longer than the regulation-style, and is cut to close at side, being slipped on coat-fashion.  Collar, cuffs, and belt are made of contrasting material, a band of the same extending from the neck-band along the shoulder to join left side trim.
     The trousers are of the usual knickerbocker-type, and show a becoming fullness.
     This little suit can be made of serge, cheviot or any of the soft woolen materials.  For a wash-suit chambray, linen, or pique can be utilized.
     The pattern, No 2232, is cut in sizes for boys 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 years of age.  To make the suit in the medium size will require 3 yards of 27-inch, or 1 5/8 yards of 54-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.







Misses’ Dress
     For the young girl, the simpler styles of dress are more becoming, as these emphasize the wearer’s youthfulness and charm.
     A pretty dress of this type is shown in illustration No. 5662, which presents a costume with body and sleeves cut in one kimono-fashion, and a four-gored skirt closing at left side.
     The waist is perfectly plain, and is trimmed around the neck and down the front with a band of braid.  The cuffs are likewise trimmed.
     The skirt hangs in graceful, slender lines, and is attached to waist by a narrow belt.
     Linen, chambray, or madras are suitable materials, and either braid or bandings of contrasting goods can be used for trimming.
     The pattern, No. 5662, is cut in sizes for 14, 16 and 18 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 6 yards of 27-inch goods, 4 ¼ yards of 36-inch, and 3 3 3/8 yards of 50-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.






 Children’s One-Piece Dress
     This simple little garment, illustration No. 4971, is an innovation in one-piece frocks.
     It is so easy to make, and so easy to launder that its appeal to mothers of small girls will prove irresistible.
     The little dress is made to be slipped on over the head, and closing being on the left side.  The garment has a round neck, and loose, kimono sleeves.  A belt holds the frock in position.
     This garment may be used as an apron to be worn over the dress for play or school,, The simplicity of this style makes various developments possible; as, if desired, embroidery trimming might be applied to front, belt, yoke-outline, and sleeve-edge.
     The design is excellent for serge, Henrietta, linen, or galatea.  For plainer style, gingham, madras, or percale may be used.
     The pattern, No. 4971, is cut in sizes for from 2 to 10 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 1 7/8 yards of 36- or 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.




 

Dainty School-Dress
     A pretty school-frock for the little girl is presented in design No. 5668.  It can be made with long or short sleeves, and is suitable for development in either woolen or cotton materials.
     It is a simple, practical little garment, yet is as tasty as could be desired for general wear.
     The dress is an excellent adaptation of the ever popular Gibson-style.  The plaits extend over the shoulders, running to the waistline, both front and back.
     The plain skirt is shirred on to the waist, and is finished with a hem.  There is an applied yoke, with braid trimming.  A sailor-tie gives a dainty finishing touch.  The three-quarter-length sleeves are completed with a narrow band-cuff.
     The pattern, No. 5668, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ½ yards of 27-inch, 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch, and 2 ¼ yards of 44-inch material, ½ yard of contrasting goods for yoke and collar, and 2 5/8 yards of braid.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.




 Children’s Yoke Dress
     For the baby-girl, the plainer the little dress, the sweeter the tiny miss.  A cunning little frock is shown in illustration No. 5300, suited for a child from 6 months to 5 years old.
     A dainty little yoke has the body of the garment gathered, or with fullness at both back and front.  The yoke is bordered with a band of insertion.  Insertion is also run around the bottom of the dress, above the hem.
     The bishop sleeves are full-length, and are completed with a band or cuff of insertion of which the little collar is also made.
     Cambric, lawn, or batiste are suitable for the development of this frock.
     The pattern, No. 5300, is cut in sizes for ½, 1, 3 and 5 years.  For a little girl of three years it will require 2 7/8 yards of 27-inch material, or 2 yards of 36-inch goods.  Two and one-quarter yards of insertion is needed.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.







Girls’ Two-piece Dress
     One of the daintiest of the new models for the girl from 3 to 10 years is displayed in No. 4177.
     This little frock is simplicity personified, as it is cut in tow pieces, and is made to slip on over the head.  It closes at sides in envelope fashion.
     The dress is full plaited back and front.  The square Dutch neck is outlined with embroidery, and the same is used on belt.  The short sleeves are full, and are finished with a tiny ruffle of lace.
     The model is an excellent one for linen, lawn, Swiss batiste, chambray, and other similar fabrics.
     The pattern, No. 4177, is cut in sizes for girls 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 years old.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, 2 ½ yards of 36-, and 2 yards of 44-inch goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
 

Monday, November 19, 2012

Appropriate Styles for Outdoor Wear
January, 1912, page 10
 
Girls’ Double-Breasted Coat
     A stylish long coat for girls is pictured in No. 5657.  The model is simple to fashion, yet possess all the elements of good style. 
     The garment is made in double-breasted style, and is cut on sacque lines at both front and back.  Close-fitting revers ornament the front, while at the back either a square sailor- or round collar may be employed.
     The well fitted sleeves are finished with a deep turnback cuff.
     The design for this coat is particularly stylish and effective, and for wintry weather will prove a warm, service-giving garment.
     No style could be better for development in the fashionable woolen mixtures, while serge, cheviot, and broadcloth are also available.
     This model will be clever made up in blue serge or pencil-striped cheviot, with collar and cuffs of white satin.  For a plainer coat, collar and cuffs of the same material would be suitable.
     The pattern, No. 5657, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 1/8 yards of 36-inch, or 2 5/8 yards of 44-inch material.  If satin collar and cuffs are used, it will require ¾ of a yard of 20-inch satin.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Suit
     In model No. 5675 and No. 5665 we show a jacket-suit that embodies all the latest-style features of the season.  It is a dressy costume that combines good taste with practicability.
     The jacket is 28 inches in length, and is a double-breasted model with box back.  There is a chic sailor-collar, fastening close to the neck.  The coat closes invisibly down left side, and is ornamented below the collar with two braid frogs.  The sleeves are plain, and fit man-style, without fullness, in the armholes.  The collar and turnback cuffs have inserts of velvet.
     The skirt is one of the prettiest ever designed.  It is in four gores, and has the popular panel at back, stitched partly down the length, but hangs loose a few inches above the hem.
     A stylish feature is the front-effect.  A triangular piece of contrasting goods is set in at the bottom, above which are three braid ornaments to correspond with those on the coat.  The skirt has the snug fit over hips now in vogue, and hangs in straight, narrow lines, with sufficient fullness to insure grace.
     This is a good design for white serge or mohair, and a pretty wash-suit can also be developed from the model, using linen or Danish cloth.
     The coat-pattern, No. 5675, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The skirt-pattern, No. 5665. Is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 7/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Girls’ Three-Piece Skirt
     For the very little girl, the dressing of whom is a problem to the mother, illustration No. 4618 offers something out of the ordinary.  Here is a three-piece suit, consisting of coat, waist and skirt.  For a school-outfit this clever little suit will be just right, the skirt and coat being of the same material, or different, as preferred.
     The coat is a plain box model, loose at front and back.  Small lapels are rolled back from the turndown collar.  The sleeves have a little fullness at shoulders.  The jacket buttons down the front in a single-breasted style.  There is a pocket in each side front.
     The skirt is a plain, gathered model, attached to belt.
     The waist is a cunning little shirt-blouse, much on the style for older girls.  A cluster of tiny tucks at front and back regulates the fullness.  The waist closes through a center box plait.  A smart rolling collar finishes the neck, and the regulation shirt-blouse sleeves are completed with a band cuff.
     The pattern, No. 4618, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the coat and skirt in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, 3 yards of 44-inch, and 2 5/8 yards of 50-inch goods.
     For the coat alone are needed 3 ¼ yards of 36-inch material, 1 ¾ yards of 44-inch, and 1 5/8 yards of 50-inch goods.
     For the waist are required 2 ¼ yards of 27-inch, and 1 ½ yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ House-Dress
     For wearing about the house while performing the duties of the home, a simple dress is always in good taste.  Fancy effects in house-gowns are as much in bad taste as are frills and furbelows in a business office.  The woman of refinement will welcome the new idea displayed in the dress illustrated, No. 5435.
     Here is a garment that entirely replaces the old-time wrapper.  It is neater and nicer than a kimono, because when attired in a dainty house-dress a woman is always ready to answer the bell, or appear before strangers, if necessary.
     This model is something new in house-dress designing.  It is a one-piece dress, closing down the left of front, from neck to hem.  A Gibson plait over each shoulder in front runs to about yoke-depth, where it is released to provide becoming fullness to blouse.  At the back the plaits run to the belt-line.
     The pattern provides for either long or short sleeves, high or Dutch neck.
     Chambray, gingham, madras, or percale is used for house-dresses of this type.  Plain blue or pink, with white collar and cuffs would be nice, or plaid gingham, with plain collar and cuffs matching the predominating color of the material.
     The pattern, No. 5435, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 8 ¾ yards of 27-inch material, with 5/8 of a yard of contrasting goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
 
Stylish Costume
     For a dressy costume, something classy is desired, and in illustration No. 5671 and No. 5682 is presented a splendid model for a suit that is just right for wear on any occasion.  It is not too plain for dress-, nor too fussy for ordinary wear, and having these good points, it is a suit that cannot fail to attract the attention of the woman to whom good taste in gowning is an attribute.
     The coat is a plain box model, yet is lifted out of the plain class by the ornamentation afforded by the handsome revers, which are braid-trimmed in inverted-shield shape, or of plain white satin.  The same trimming is likewise used on the cuffs.
     The skirt is cut in regulation or Empire waistlines.  There is a panel the full length of both front and back.  An additional tasty touch is given by the plaited side flounce, which hangs in graceful fullness.  The garment closes at the left side of the back.
     Serge, broadcloth, or panama, is what is needed for a costume of this type.
     The coat-pattern, No. 5671, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require2 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The skirt-pattern, No 5682, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 7/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Friday, November 16, 2012

Three Handsome Centerpieces


By Harriet Clement Wheeler
January, 1912
page 9

      Entirely distinct as to the character of design and work, it is yet very difficult to decide which of the centerpieces shown is the most attractive.  Every housekeeper will be likely to want them all; and they come just in the nick of time for the holiday dinner-table – on which we always want to use something that is entirely new, and as beautiful as we can manage to have it.  Simple, yet striking and most effective is the pine-cone motif.  While this design is particularly suited to living-room or library use, it may well be given a place wherever a centerpiece is needed.  The model is on gray linen, and the embroidery is done entirely in reddish-brown floss, the sections of the cones in satin-stitch, the needles and other outline work in stem-stitch.  The edge is buttonholed with the same floss, and one at all accustomed to the use of the needle in a decorative way should be able to complete this pleasing twenty-four-inch centerpiece in a day of comparatively steady work.
      An extra finish which would add much to the attractiveness of this piece would be a border of heavy Cluny lace matching the linen in color, and with portions of the work threaded in with the floss used for the embroidery.  The lace may be handmade, crocheted or knitted, if one prefers, using a thread of gray or natural-color linen as coarse as No. 25 or No. 30.  Many very charming designs of lace for this purpose have been presented in Needlecraft.
      The lace border may be worked directly on the linen; but, since it will probably outwear the embroidery, it is wiser to work on a chain, baste smoothly to the edge of the centerpiece, and buttonhole around.  However, the decision regarding this may well be left to the discretion of the worker herself.  If desired, a regular scalloped edge may be applied, traced from some other centerpiece, the buttonholing being deep and well padded.
      While the original is in color, as stated, this design may be very effectively carried out in white work, using rather heavy material, as befits the motif.  As a rule, however, the brown floss on gray or cream-color linen will be particularly admired.  Instead of one color, several shades of brown may be used with charming effect.  The piece is sure to give satisfaction, in any case, since it requires very little expenditure of time and labor, and is most pleasing.
      Another simple design, yet artistic and graceful in the extreme, is that of the thistle; and never was it more attractively applied than in the present instance.  Of solid work, save for the tiny cut=out spaces separating the sections of scallop, the piece gives the effect of Mountmellick embroidery, rich and heavy; yet the stitches are of the simplest order and with little variation.  The slender, sharply serrate leaves are in long-and-short-stitch, with the central veining in outline-stitch.  The cup of the thistle consists of tiny points in satin-stitch, while the flower is in outline – the close lines radiating from the top of the cup.  No other stitches are used save those indicated, and the buttonholing of the edges and spaces.  The latter are filled with twisted bars, crossing from end to end and side to side, with a tiny wheel woven around the knot which holds them at the center.
      The buttonholing of the border is padded, and the stitches deeply set, this adding to the heavy appearance of the work as a whole.  The piece is one that may be undertaken by the merest novice in stitchery with every assurance of success.  It may also be done in colors or color on gray linen, choosing green for leaves and thistle-cups, and pink for the blooms, with green, differing in shade, for the border.  Every housekeeper likes to have several centerpieces in color for use as required, especially in the living-room; and the manufacturers have brought out, and are still adding to, the assortment of silk-finished cottons, in colors as soft and lovely that it is a delight to use them.  While silk floss, because of its rich lustre and the fineness and variety of its shading, will always hold its own established place in the realm of needlecraft, it is no longer the only material for colored embroidery.  Cotton and linen threads – the latter possessing a permanent lustre, scarcely surpassed by silk – are eminently suited to the majority of bold, conventional designs, and the rather coarse, heavy fabrics which are favored at the present time, and bid fair to not only retain their popularity but extend it for months to come.
      Madeira embroidery needs no word of commendation.  To say that “solid-and eyelet” work is “holding its own” in the heart of the fancy-work devotee is to put the case very conservatively indeed; rather, it is steadily strengthening its claim on feminine favor.  New stitcheries come and go, while this simple, durable, beautiful work is with us always.  Fresh designs are constantly being brought out, and the centerpiece illustrated is a charming example of the crafts-woman’s art.  True, it embodies the ubiquitous daisy, always a favorite motif in this class of needlework with the  graceful sprays in satin-stitch; but the arrangement is very attractive, while the irregular scallops, with the row of eyelets just within, do away with any suggestion of monotony.
      Many needleworkers seem to think it a waste of time to first outline a design with running-stitch, but this inference is a mistaken one, particularly as regards the eyelets.  Not only does this help to keep the line true and even, but serves as a padding or cord over which to work the eyelet- or over-and-over-stitch.  And while the round eyelets may be padded sufficiently by the single row of running-stitches, the long or pear-shaped ones require a heavier cord.  For this, after having run the outline as directed, whip this with a second row of cotton, passing the needle under each running-stitch, and catching it also into a thread or two of the cloth that lies beneath.  In these long eyelets, cut a crosswise incision, from end to end and side to side, not quite to the outline.  Turn under the little tabs or segments of linen thus formed, making other similar slashes if necessary to enable you to fold them back smoothly, and then work over and over the cording or outline, neither leaving a space between the stitches nor allowing them to overlap. A little practice will be necessary in order to make a perfectly symmetrical eyelet, but one should be satisfied with no other.  The circular eyelets may be punched with a stiletto, unless extremely large, when they should be treated in the manner indicated.  When finished, clip away any bits of linen that extend beyond the cording on the wrong side.
      Outline the stems in the way directed for the pear-shaped eyelets, and work over and over with a slightly slanting stitch, taking into a minute portion of the cloth beneath, so as to form a smooth cord.  This is the true stem-stitch.
      To pad the scalloped edge, use either outline- or back-stitch, or chain-stitch, keeping in line with the edge so that the buttonhole-stitches will cross the padding at right angles.  Do not trim nor cut out a buttonholed edge until the work is entirely completed and has been laundered; having followed this advice once, you will readily perceive the wisdom of it.
 
No. 25 D.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on gray linen, 50 cents.
No. 26 D.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on either gray or white linen, 50 cents.
No. 27 D. Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on linen, 30 cents.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Needlecraft's Gift Box, January, 1912

Needlecraft’s Gift-Box
(January, 1912, page 8)
 
Some Eleventh-Hour Gifts
By Florence J. Moore
 
      After all, it is not the intrinsic value of a gift that counts, but the fact that the giver thinks of us; and the smallest remembrance which indicates kindly thought is of more value to the recipient who also shares the Christmas spirit than an expensive present which carries with it only the suggestion of dollars and times.  Is not this true?
      Then, many times, at the last moment – literally the eleventh hour -- we find ourselves lacking a gift for some friend whom we wish to remember.  We might go out and buy something, but that we do not wish to do; we want the remembrance to bear a personal message of love and good-will – to be something of our own handiwork.  And right here enters in a class of “fancy-work materials” too often overlooked in these days of the dominant needle.
      A few hours spent with water-color paper, blotting-paper, a box of water-color paints or artist’s crayons, a little gold in or gilding and some narrow ribbons – all costing “next to nothing”—will result in a half dozen or more wonderfully attractive gifts.  One does not need to be an artist in order to evolve them; if one is painstaking, the very first attempts at coloring with these simple pigments will be most satisfactory.  Sketch the design until you have it to please you – in many cases a portion of some embroidery-pattern may be utilized; then trace it lightly on the part which is to be decorated, and paint it in.
      There are articles innumerable which may be easily made, and one bit of work is sure to afford a working suggestion for another.  Calendars, shaving-pads, blotters, cases for postcards, letter, stamps and court-plaster, candle-shades, sachets, and so on and on, may all have a foundation of water-color paper.  None of these things are new in themselves, but it rests with the worker to make them as novel and pretty as possible by varying the decoration and introducing all sorts of quaint and dainty conceits.
      If one has had no experience whatever it may be well to practise on some little article – or on something which may be utilized in the making of a small gift should the work turn out satisfactorily.  Having once tried her hand, the worker will have gained confidence in her own ability – which is the main thing – and thereafter will have no difficulty.  It may be said, right here, that water-color paper which has been “stretched” is easier to work on that that which has not been thus treated, and that work done on it has a more finished or smoother look.  To stretch the paper, place the sheet on a board and turn up the edges a very little, say one fourth inch, so that the water will be prevented from running off.  Pour on water until the surface is covered, allow to remain a few moments, then drain it off – taking care that the under side of the sheet is not dampened.  Give the edges that were turned up a coating of glue (on the under side) and fasten the paper to the board, stretching it until perfectly smooth, and let remain until quite dry.  Take care to not touch the paper while it is wet.  To remove it, cut around the glued edge with a sharp knife.  The outlines of articles to be made may be traced on the sheet and painted in before taking up the sheet if one prefers to do this; later they may be cut out and used.
      Stenciling lends itself admirably to the decoration of articles of this character, and I have found the new artists’ crayons very much easier to work with, particularly on paper that is at all porous, than paints which are mixed with oil or water.  They come in a variety of shades and are used as you would use the paints, but without mixing, the crayon being substituted for the brush.
      The articles presented are intended to offer suggestions, rather than to be copied exactly as to decoration.  First, is the little holder for lingerie ribbons.  Cut two circles of water-color paper, decorating one piece with a cluster of violets, forget-me-nots, holly, or whatever you please, and arranging so that the stems cross in the center where they will be tied by the tiny bow of ribbon.  On the other piece paint a tiny border, with the inscription “Yards and yards of love,” in gold or violet ink lettered on it.  Place between the two circles a roll of lingerie-ribbon, and pass a narrow ribbon, matching the predominating tint of the decoration through the center, tying the ends in a pretty bow.
      The same circle, with different decoration, or the same (since each gift will go on a mission all its own, and the design, once perfected, may be readily transferred to the various articles by means of impression-paper, tracing lightly) may be used for a penwiper, sachet, blotter or – cut larger – shaving-pad.  For the penwiper place it over several circular pieces of chamois, cut a trifle larger, tying all together by means of a ribbon, either in the center or at one side.  Take for the sachet a circle of silk, seven inches or more in diameter, place within it a smaller pad of cotton, thickly sprinkled with sachet-powder, gather the edge, and draw up until the circle of water-color paper will just cover it, and paste the latter in place.  To the shaving-pad is attached the shaving-paper, also my means of a ribbon passed through the whole at one side, leaving a loop to hang by and tying in a bow at top of the cover. 
      Another sachet – illustrated – is a trifle more pretentious.  Cut two pieces of the water-color paper, each six and one-half by eight inches, or of size desired.  Scallop the edge irregularly and gild, edging with a narrow line of black ink.  Paint a cluster of violets at the right side of one piece – that which has the gilded border – and at the left side the inscription, quaintly lettered:
“I looked for something sweet to send to you;
The purple violets asked if they would do.”
Do the lettering with green ink, touching up with gold.  Two strips of half-inch violet-colored ribbon cross the back diagonally, and a pretty bow is tied where they meet in the center.  Under the ribbon may be tucked a card of greeting.  Place a layer of cotton wadding sprinkled with sachet-powder – violet in the present instance – and paste the two pieces lightly together.
      A postage-stamp case that is quite out of the ordinary, and the decoration of which seems especially suited to a gift since pansies are proverbially “for thoughts,” is formed of a piece of water-color paper five inches long and four and one-half inches wide.  Fold three times, in equal parts, and glue together at one edge.  Now take a piece of the same paper a little less than three inches wide, or just wide enough so that, when folded once, it will slip easily into the case formed by folding the larger piece, and five and one-half inches long.  Having folded it through the center, cut two sheets of waxed paper and sew in at the fold.  Paint a large purple pansy at the top of the case or first piece, scalloping the edge in the shape of two petals.  At the top of the second piece paint two more petals, scalloping the edge and shading down so that when the holder is in the case these petals will come just above the others, finishing the pansy of five petals.  Add a stem and leaves, and with gold ink or paint letter the word “Stamps” across the lower part.  Edge the holder and case with the gilding, also.  A similar case may be made for court-plaster, changing the lettering to suit the contents.
      One who has the habit of forgetting dates will find a memorandum-pad and calendar, combined, very useful, and it may be made most attractive.  Take a block of paper three by five inches; cut a piece of tinted water-color paper a trifle larger and paint on it a pretty little winter scene, or decorate it as pleases  your won fancy.  Procure a little calendar-pad and make a cover of the same water-color paper by cutting a piece three by four and a half inches, folding through the center, cutting two slits in the back, near the fold, and inserting the ends of the strips of ribbon which attach the calendar to the block, and to a long end of ribbon a small pencil.  The calendar-cover may have the year printed upon it with gold ink, or another decoration may be substituted; and a pretty postcard may take the place of the hand-painted block-cover.
      Blotting-paper is admirably adapted to decoration by means of artist’s crayons, and a desk-blotter, large enough to take in a full sheet of note-paper cannot fail to be acceptable to a friend who has a desk and does much writing. To make such a blotter take two pieces of blotting-paper, each twelve inches wide and nineteen inches long.  For one of the models shown light gray was sued.  Fold across the middle to form a book; paint on the front cover a spray of autumn-leaves, pass a half-inch ribbon, red, through the fold, bringing it to the outside, and tie in a bow over the end of the spray.  A calendar may occupy the lower right-hand corner, and the decoration may be stenciled, or done in any way that is preferred.
      For the second blotter one piece of blue blotting-paper and another of pink was used, the latter being folded inside.  Notch the edges with a pinking-iron, or leave them plain, as you wish.  Sketch in the bare branches of a tree, and on one limb paint three little birds “piping for spring.”  Bind together with a strip of inch-wide satin ribbon, matching the inner sheet of blotting-paper in color, carrying it down the fold, inside, out and up to the top outside, fasten securely, and bring the end forward, forming a pretty bow on the cover.
      Using the same general model, these blotters may be varied indefinitely.  There are postcards which may be chosen from any high-class assortment, and which have perfect sepia and pastel tinting’ such cards will be found of great value when one comes to the making of gifts similar to those described.
      On the pieces of water-color paper remaining after you have cut the various articles described, and others, paint sprays of holly, “Santa-Claus” heads, or any device serving as a reminder of the season.  Tuck these in with your more pretentious gifts, and be sure the addition will be a pleasing one.
      A little folder for holding a photograph or small picture adds greatly to the attractiveness of the gift, and the expense, either of time or material is not worth considering.  Using the tinted water-color paper, cut a piece so that one half, when folded through the middle, will measure four by five inches; the other half, which holds the picture must measure four and three-fourths inches from the fold, and six and one-half inches the other way, allowing three-fourths inch on sides and end to fold over and hold the picture in place.  Cut out the corners, and fold so that the case, open, measures five by eight inches.  Cut a piece of white water-color paper, four by five inches, and on this paste a tiny water-color scene; if it can be one which the friend to whom you are sending the folder knows, so that it will recall pleasant hours, so much the better.  
       A camera will play a very pleasing part in the preparation of these little gifts, as one can photograph familiar scenes and arrange them in a variety of decorative ways.
 
Gifts Pretty and Inexpensive
By Hannah Waltenmaier
 
      The blotter and the calendar are truly “everywhere present” when preparation for Christmas-giving is at its height, and this is scarcely to be wondered at.  Everybody uses a calendar and everybody uses a blotter, hence these gifts are of universal utility, and the two may be very readily combined.
      The wise woman will make constant provision for her Christmas-box by adding to her store of materials as opportunity offers.  Frequently a dealer in artists’ supply will have water-color papers, odds and ends of mat-board, and so on, possibly a trifle mussed from handling, or which for some reason he desired to dispose of and will sell at a very low price.  Then is just the time to buy; for such things can always be made use of, even to the smallest pieces.
      A pretty blotter for the writing-table consists of three or four pieces of old rose blotting-paper cut of desired size- in the model four and one-fourth by nine inches; a piece of eggshell-finish water-color paper, white, is cut about one fourth inch smaller all around and with rounded corners.  On this is painted a cluster of wild roses or sprays of other flowers, which a bow of old rose ribbon, put through blotting-paper and cover, seems to tie.  Between cover and blotting-paper slip a little card with the suggestion, “To blot out all but fond memories.”  If desired, a calendar-pad may be fastened at the lower end of the cover, thus making the gift one of double usefulness, as suggested.
      An address-book will be appreciated by nearly every one.  For the cover, fold a piece of water-color paper so it will measure five by seven inches.  Decorate the front with sprays of forget-me-nots – a flower peculiarly suggestive and appropriate for the purpose.  Cut leaves to fold between the covers, or procure note-paper of the requisite size, write a letter of the alphabet at the top of each page, from A to Z, punch two holes at the back, and tie with blue ribbon.  The inscription “Addresses” may be lettered across the front, or omitted, as desired.
      A similar booklet of choice selections from poets and authors, or one of receipts, will be welcomed by the woman to whom either especially appeals.  The inscription should, of course, be made to indicate the contents of the booklet.
      For a hanging calendar cut a piece of heavy mat-board, say ten by four and a half inches.  On a piece of water-color paper paint any appropriate design, fasten it to the board, attach a calendar-pad below, at the top cut two quarter circles facing each other, draw the notched ends of ribbon through to the front and leave a loop at the back to hang by.  The person whose time and means are limited, and who can neither paint nor embroider, will yet find the making of such a calendar an easy matter.  Instead of the water-color painting let a postcard be chosen, having colors to blend and harmonize with the mat-board, and with a suitable inscription.  The result will be really artistic, with the least possible expenditure of money or time.
      Then there is the postcard calendar.  A few yards of narrow ribbon, a sheet or two of blotting-paper and a dozen postcards will provide as many gifts to send to friends at a distance, or present to friends near at hand – gifts sure to be appreciated if a judicious selection of postcards is made.  Each should mean something; should show that thought has entered into the preparation of the gift.  For instance, a beautiful marine view, in sepia or refined coloring, should go to one who has never seen the ocean, perhaps, and who longs to see it; a view of some famous church is sure to appeal to one, a historical scene to another, and upon just the right choice of subject depends much of the charm of the gift.  Then there are the illuminated text- or motto-cards; among them is sure to be exactly what somebody needs.  If one is inclined to be gloomy and look on the dark side, think how great an influence for the better may be exercised by a blotter, sent by one the recipient knows to be a true friend, which constantly suggests:
          “Just being happy helps other folks along:
           Their burdens may be heavy, and they not strong;
           And your own sky will lighten
           If other skies you brighten
           By just being happy, with a heart full of song.”
Cut the pieces of blotting-paper a very little smaller than the card – or cut them a half inch larger all around, the extra size serving as a mat or frame for the card which, in that case, must be pasted to the center of the upper piece.  If cut of the same size, tie all together at end or side, according to the card, with narrow ribbon; in the other case tie the blotting-paper sheets together in the same manner.
     A book-marker requires a strip of water-color paper, five inches long and two and one-half inches wide, the ends folded to the edge, forming a half square, and tied with narrow ribbon at the back.  The decoration is a spray of forget-me-nots, and the marker slips over the corner of the page to keep the place.
     Another similar strip, ornamented with a pretty flower-spray and with ends joined by ribbon matching the coloring of the blossoms, serves for a napkin-ring.  Other small pieces will work in for making stamp-boxes or pockets, court-plaster cases, candy-boxes, and innumerable other little things.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Fashion Review, January, 1912

(January, 1912, page 6)
(The Art of Dressing By Dora Douglas)

 Fashion Review (January, 1912)
     With the beginning of the midwinter season, fashions assume a more concrete form than they had at the beginning of the fall season.  There are not any radical changes in styles, but nearly every day some new combination of materials and colors is evolved.
     Particularly is this fact emphasized in evening gowns, which now, at the very height of the social season, are claiming keen attention.  Such a beautiful array of soft, bewitching colors one sees, such a combination of silks and satins and laces and embroidery and beads.  One marvels at the ingenuity that designed them into execution.
     The pastel shades are most in vogue and, of course, are wonderful in ballroom and reception toilettes.  Beautiful shimmering meteor gowns, rich charmeuse robes of chiffon, net and lace satin dresses are pronounced favorites.
     The trimmings are of Persian and oriental embroidery, beautiful, deep macramé lace, striking metallic laces, find shadow laces, silk and chenille fringes, Bulgarian worsted, button, and bugles, and beads.
     The new colors, the new materials, and the slight variations on the prevailing styles are depended on to bring out different effects in the latest costumes.  In great favor are filmy overdresses and, with the renaissance of old-world fashions, these are quite consistent.  Many of them are developed in chiffon, net, or very fine crepe de Chine of a delicate color, to be worn over a foundation-dress of a contrasting color.
     One notices how loosely these over-dresses are fitted.  As they are not seamed save under the arms, they are absolutely loose around the waist.  Underneath them a plain princesse dress is worn, and the outline of the figure shows through the chiffon, lace or net of which the overdress is made.  A little gathering placed in either side front at the waistline sometimes draws the overdress closer to the figure.  Beaded net is fine for a dress of this nature, spangled chiffon being another desirable requisite.  Sometimes two overdresses are worn, both of different colors, over a princesse gown of another hue.  These shadow dresses, as they have been named, are the latest word In smart effects in evening gowns.
     While on the subject of evening gowns, one might pause to consider a proper wrap to be worn with these elaborate creations.  The toga or liberty-cape wrap, is a simple model which is attractive and graceful.  The garment is cut in one piece, out of the straight length of a very wide material, broadcloth meeting the requirement nicely.  After being cut, the cape is simply tacked together, and falls in graceful fashion down the center back.  An artistic touch is given by finishing with a silk tassel, either of corresponding or contrasting shade.  Sometimes the toga is developed in satin or soft silk; often a finely woven serge is used.  All the pastel shades of lavender, and pink, and blue are worn, though the most practical colors are gray and biscuit-color and black.
     With the party- or ball-dress, a particularly fetching accessory is the pretty little theatre-cap.  Various materials are used for this headwear.  Spangled net, over a plain satin surface, lace over silk, embroidery over silk, chiffon and satin trimmed with tiny rosebuds, are some examples noted at a recent reception.  Many of these caps match the toilette; again, we see them of contrasting color.  With a shadow dress of green and pink was worn a cap of white lace over black velvet.  With a pink satin gown, a cap of spangled net over pink was seen.  These caps are easy to make so that the younger contingent have adopted them enthusiastically; and no wonder, as no more bewitching and effective framing for a pretty face could be imagined.
     The new bordered goods are achieving quite a vogue, though the Pompadour and Persian patterns are being superseded by the use of deep selvages of plain colors.  Many of the stunning new chiffons and marquisettes have a plain body, with a deep border of black.  An instance of the effectiveness of the border dress was seen in an evening-gown with the popular apron-tabliers.  There was an underskirt of black satin, and a tunic of white chiffon, with a deep hem of the black satin.  The separate panel at the back was also of black satin.  The waist was a novelty.  It had a side body and shor peasant sleeves of black satin.  The chemisette was of white chiffon, embroidered in black.
     Velvet still leads in the makeup of afternoon gowns.  This fabric de luxe has the seal of fashion’s approval for the winter of 1912.  It comes in all shades, from the staple to the most delicate.
     Velveteen continues a close second, and corduroy is in high favor with those women who follow the smarter modes.  For theatre, visiting, or street gowns, it is used extensively.  Dresses of this material are not lavishly trimmed.  Soutache braid is about all that is required.  Of course, the yoke, collar, and undersleeves are mostly of lace, which furnishes all the trimming necessary.
     An attractive costume of Havana-brown velvet and voile ninon was made with a draped kimono waist and Empire skirt.  The voile was draped over a foundation-waist, which had lace undersleeves and yoke.  Deep points of the velvet were brought up high on the brown voile waist, and black and cream bands of galloon gave an effective finish.
     Corduroy gowns in plum, dark-crimson, and bottle-green, are much seen.  One-piece dresses of soft woolen material are desirable additions to the well gowned woman’s wardrobe.  For a typical up-to-date street dress, nothing is nicer than black-and-white striped serge.  For smart suits, cloth or woolen-back satin is worn to some extent.  Beautiful results are obtained from this material, because of its soft, pliant folds in draping.
     A modish dress recently observed was of old-rose wool sating cloth, combined with soutache net the shade of which was a trifle darker.  Many delightful combinations are suggested by the type.  One might use amber over light blue, gray over rose, black over green, or any of the combination colors that might be especially appealing.  
     In the designing of the afternoon frocks, great latitude is permissible.  Three-quarter sleeves made chiefly of lace continue the vogue in dressy gowns.  In the less pretentious costumes the long sleeve is correct.  Usually the yoke is of lace or net, in white or cream as this is more becoming to some faces than colored fabric.
     Rich, dark colors re still popular, but these are relieved in most instances by bead-trimming, metallic lace in dull gold or silver, or buttons in an endless variety of colors and shapes.
     A frock, both practical and dressy for afternoon or informal evening wear is made of dark wine-colored broadcloth, trimmed with coral velvet.  It has lace underbody and sleeves, which are cut in one and made with under sections.  The outer waist is cut in fancy outline, and the touches of coral are quite effective.  In place of the velvet, beaded banding might be used just as artistically.
     One notices an absence of all white frocks this winter.  A few seasons ago the unrelieved white garment was high in favor, but now fashion has declared that there must be a dash of color to take away the deadened appearance.  Lavender, coral-pink, and dull-blue are seen in embroidery and beading and banding, giving a rich tone of life and light to the otherwise colorless garments.
     In the fashionable street suits, the simple lines are observed, giving the effect declared correct by the mandates of the fashion-designers.  No trimming now breaks the straight lines of the best tailored skirts, though the judicious use of buttons is permissible.  A special feature of the smart suits is the gored skirts which are made without plaits, having lapped and stitched seams.  In many fabrics, mixed effects are fashionable, and some fetching suits of checked worsted, tweed, diagonal cloth, and mannish weaves are seen.  Two or three colors are sometimes blended in the weaving so subtly that they are indistinguishable, yet a soft, indefinite tone is present that harmonizes well with almost any blouse.
     A trim suit of navy-blue serge is always good taste.  A splendid model has a short jacket, with cutaway front, and deep closing outline.  There is a black satin collar, and the coat edges are finished with a narrow fold of the satin.  A pretty fastening is of black satin frogs, but a group of buttons might be used if preferred.  To the woman of discernment, the skirt of this suit will make an instant appeal.  It is an eight-gored model, made with lapped seams.  Such a suit has an air of distinction that marks a woman of refined taste.  Instead of the serge, blue cheviot could be substituted, with the same effect.
     In separate coats the fur-trimmed garments are to be a premier vogue.  This is the latest word from Paris.  The fabrics employed in the making of these classy coats include English and Scotch mixture coatings of that soft, rough finish now high in fashion’s favor.  Oxford, gray, navy and brown are  the colors.  The garments are made in full-length model, with semi-fitting back.  They are designed with a deep, round shawl-collar and long revers, which together with the wide cuffs, are made of French lynx, skunk, opossum, caracul or sable-dyed opossum.  The fur collar lends an additional richness and protection.  Fur cloth in caracul, Persian lamb and astrakhan makes serviceable coats.  Practical garments re made of heavyweight roseberry cloth, and for stormy weather nothing could be more suitable.
     Many women do not consider their wardrobe complete unless they possess at least one fine black coat.  The variety of models for a coat of this style is very extensive.  All are made full-length, 54 and 56 inches, are semifitted mostly, and have notch, round square, pointed  or novelty collar.  Some are tastefully trimmed with velvet, satin, silk braid, ornaments, and frogs.  Many of the new models have long, graceful revers that fasten way to the side.  Fancy braided effects are noted.  Plain sleeves are modish, and sleeves with turnback cuffs are in equally good form.
     Fashionable coats for young women are mostly of double-faced fabrics, although not all are reversible.  Smart color-combinations include Oxford and purple, medium gray and green, light brown and olive.  Many clever variations are seen in the styles of collars and cuffs.  Some are trimmed with buttons, large and small.  The cheviot coats are modishly trimmed with braid and fringe, and are made chiefly in demitailored style.
     Evening styles at present claiming attention show charming models of satin-finished black kersey, embellished with handsome silk braids and velvet.  For those who prefer new shaggy greatcoats, there are clever reversible models that will be sure to please.  The lighter side of these garments is for dressy wear.  The darker one for street use.  Stunning plaid black mixtures are also good, the plaid side being used to trim.  Fascinating representatives of the favored tow-tone effects are seen in gray herringbone vicuna cloth, faced in contrasting color.
     You will be interested in learning about the new ideas in waists for the saying “there is nothing new under the sun” is thrust back upon itself when fashion is the keyword.
     The “hoop frill” waist is a novelty.  The frill idea has attained such success, that there promises to be no dimunition of its popularity.  While the side frill is not suitable for all styles, the “hoop” is universally becoming.  It forms a sort of bib around the neck, and gives a dress finish.  The “hoop” is exemplified in a particularly new waist, with black, purple, blue, and all cream trimmings, including a similar colored messaline bow at the side of the collar. 
     A score of new styles, inspired by the latest French models, are seen.  There is the delightfully unique peplum blouse.  Then there are blouses with all kinds of frills, including a new idea created by martial et Armand, with revers, frill and cascade of shadow lace.  Some of the new blouses have lace collars, effective imitations of macramé and other laces.  Others of fine Brussels net, and the new heavy Tuscan net are in that soft string-color.  The chiffon blouses are delightfully harmonious of color.  There are combinations of black velvet-ribbon and lace insertions over flesh or ivory silk. 
     Advance spring models in lingerie waists show clever ideas in voile, with trimmings of linen laces, Irish and filet, in elaborate designs of embroidery.  Some have the effective side jabot, and most of the sleeves are elaborately trimmed.