Taking a detour

Today I will take a little detour from posting pages from my Home Arts Needlecraft magazines and post, instead, a picture and instructions for a tablecloth as made by my grandmother.  She made nine of these - one for each of her 8 children and one for me!  My sister, Carolyn, wrote out the directions from reconstructing some repair work for our Aunt Catherine's tablecloth.  Thanks, sis!

Ch 6, join with slip stitch.

Rd 1:  Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, (ch 6, 3 dc) three times, ch 6.  Join with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 2:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next two dc, *ch 2, 7 dc in next sp, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from* around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 3:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next two dc, *ch 3, (dc in next dc, ch 1) six times, dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 4:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next two dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, (sc in next sp, ch 3) six times, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 5:  Ch 3, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next dc, *ch 5, 1 dc in same dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, (sc in next sp, ch 3) five times, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 6:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next two dc, *ch 3, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, (sc in next sp, ch 3) four times, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in third ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 7:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, *ch 4, 1 dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) four times, ch 4, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, (sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3) three times, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in top ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 8:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, *ch 5, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, tr in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, tr in next dc, ch 2, tr in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next three dc, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, one dc in each of the next three dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in top ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 9:  Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, *ch 7, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next tr, ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) in next tr, ch 1, dc in next tr, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 7, 1 dc I each of the next three dc, ch 3, sc in top loop of pineapple, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in top ch of beginning ch-3.

Rd 10:   Ch 4, tr cluster in next two dc, *ch 11, tr cluster in next three dc of prior round (don’t close), sl st in loop before cluster, ch 4 (or ch 1, sl st in picot of corresponding picot of motif you are connecting to, ch 1), sc in middle of cluster, ch 7, dc in first tr of tr cluster from prior round, ch 2, dc in middle tr, ch 4, join with sl st to corner picot of last motif (or make a picot here), ch 4, dc in same tr, ch 2, dc in 3rd tr of prior round, ch 7, tr cluster in next three dc of prior round (don’t close), sl st in loop before cluster, ch 4 (or ch 1, sl st in picot of corresponding  picot of motif you are connecting to, ch 1), sl st in middle of cluster, ch 11, tr cluster in next three dc of prior round twice, (don’t close), sl st in top loop of beginning cluster, ch 4 (or ch 1, sl st in picot of corresponding picot of motif you are connecting to, ch 1), sc in middle of 2nd cluster, repeat from * around, finishing with tr cluster in next three dc (close), join to first tr cluster with sl st, then complete picot as for other corresponding double clusters.   Fasten off.  

Miscellaneous

November, 1912

 Page 11

Making Feathers of Fringe

The woman whose purse is slim and whose desires are great, will welcome the fact that feathers made of fringe are fashionable

A fringe feather sounds funny, does it not?  But it is not a bit queer-looking; unusual, perhaps, and very graceful.

A few years ago women were satisfied to bedeck themselves in curly ostrich-feathers that measured twelve or fourteen inches, sometimes less, and were quite happy with them; but now long willow plumes measure from eighteen to thirty-six inches, and cost many times the amount of the small natural feather.

These long, costly plumes being out of reach of many, a beautiful substitute has come from Paris, and these are quite easy to make at home, if you can wield the needle.

For an eighteen-inch plume you will require one yard and a half of wide fringe, six or eight inches deep, a piece of round silk-covered milliner’s wire eighteen inches long, heavy and strong, and half a yard of inch-wide satin ribbon the color of the fringe.

First of all, cover the wire with the ribbon, sewing it very securely and keeping the seam straight; now to the ribbon-covered wire three rows of fringe are sewed, covering the seam in the ribbon and leaving a narrow strip of ribbon to show, that will correspond to the rib on the natural feather.

Great care must be taken in sewing on the fringe, as the whole appearance of the feather depends upon it; it must be done neatly, concealing the stitches as much as possible.

Having the fringe attached to the wire, one end – the top of the feather – must be bent over in a curve to resemble the natural curve in the real feathers; then, with a heated curling iron, the ends of the fringe are curled inward, just a little way, and then shaken out until they are fluffy and as near like the real feather as it is possible to make them appear.

The feather of fringe is ready to be sewed on to your  hat, where it will droop over the brim in a most fascinating manner.

The charm of this homemade feather lies in the fact that the cost is very small, and that you can indulge in any color you wish, matching the hat itself or the gown with which it is to be worn.

Page 11

When placing a patch-pocket on a coat of woolen or silk material, slip a narrow piece of featherbone through the top hem and catch it fast to each side when you stitch the pocket in place.  This will prevent the pocket from sagging at the top, no matter how much weight there is placed in it.

Page 14

Very pretty little coatees, more particularly on the bolero or Eton lines, are fashioned from the ramie linen, incrusted with heavy lace and the heavy padded hand-embroidery.  You can quickly surmise that a coat of this type would very effectively change the appearance of the gown over which it is worn.  Others in the delicate lingerie fabrics are likewise elaborately embroidered and enhanced with lace.

Page 16

White gloves especially have an annoying habit of tearing “at the last moment,” when you haven’t time to darn them.  To temporarily mend the rip, place a piece of courtplaster upon the underside.  This will neatly close the ripped seam and will wear for a long time.

Page 17

Charming bandeaux for evening wear are of black velvet run through buckles of brilliants and tied in a flat bow at the side front.

Page 19

Practical housekeepers who believe in saving themselves unnecessary work are using the ‘cottage” type of bedspread in lieu of those of heavier and more expensive materials like Marseilles and Irish linen.  Really artistic are the bedspreads of English printed cotton showing a white ground and a pattern in quaint shades of various standard colors.  And truly American are the blue-and-white spreads in Kentucky designs  which are said to be non-fadable; and equally enduring are the natural linen covers which have plain centers and colored borders.  Rather more unique and just the thing for a summer sleeping-room are the covers in German linen in Bledermeister design, showing an allover connecting pattern in gold, white and black, green, white and black, or blue, black and white.  Any of these covers may be finished at top and bottom with fringe, or a valance of one of the plain colors may be attached to their sides.

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A very convenient apron to don when in the sewing-room is made of white lawn and white dotted swiss.  This is cut eighteen inches long and twenty-seven inches wide.  The swiss is placed over the lawn and both cut rounding on the lower edge.  About nine inches from this edge the swiss is cut away in a sweeping curve toward the waistline and the edges are bound with narrow bias bands of lawn or narrow satin ribbon in some pretty light shade.  This forms two openings like pockets, for the upper part of the swiss is caught into the waistband with the lawn; this band, by the way, may be of ribbon matching that which binds the apron.  In this deep pocket can be slipped the spools of thread, scissors and pieces of material on which you are working.  It solves the problem of sewing on the porch, for in it are held all the necessary materials, and it can be taken off and folded with the work inside if you wish to discontinue your sewing for a while. 

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Lace collarettes and muslins can be stiffened without starch; instead, put a lump or two of sugar in the rinse-water.

Page 20

The seeker after novelty will undoubtedly come upon the new “filet-embroidery” to be used for bureau-scarfs, table-centers and pillow-tops.  The filet-net, with some attractive design which is to serve as a basis for the “embroidery,” is purchased and stretched on a weaving-frame.  The embroidery is accomplished with narrow ribbon of a desired color threaded on a blunt needle and woven over the design in the net.

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In making the solid dots or coin-spots in embroidery, after you have the dot filled except the last two strands of thread, try putting in the last thread (leaving a tiny space for that next to the last), then put the thread in the space left and see how much more perfect or rounded in appearance the do will be; fasten the thread as usual, or carry to the next dot.  –Mrs. I. C. A.

Page 21

The unique silver buttons with which a certain bright-witted girl wished to trim the skirt of a delicate pale-blue lingerie gown were pronounced by her dressmaker too small to show properly their handwrought beauty.  Duplication in a size larger was a thing impossible, so a little hint from Paris was seized on to make the emergency a real opportunity.  A very narrow braid of silky linen was found in a shade exactly to match the material of the costume, and of this, quaint “true love knots” were deftly fashioned, one for each button, and in the center of each knot its button was securely fastened.  These were used to define the fold at the center line of the skirt-front from the high waistline to the border.  Others were used to secure the fichu draperies of the graceful bodice, and to fasten a fold at the outside of each sleeve.  The effect was well worth all the trouble, and the “rosettes” set off the bits of silver.

**********

Little jewel-bags made of dainty tinted and trimmed silks may be hung around the neck when taking a long trip.  The bag is lined with thin chamois and there are small pockets for the larger pieces or the most valuable ones, which might become injured by knocking against other jewels.  These bags come in all sizes from two inches long and two inches wide to the large ones three inches wide by six inches long.  Many of the larger ones may be hung from a strong gold or silver chain which passes about the neck, and if a low-necked dress is worn the case need not be taken off.

Page 22

I should like to suggest to all women desirous of earning money at home that it is an excellent plan to keep copies of different periodicals – like Needlecraft and its sister-papers – where callers will pick them up to look over, and take subscriptions for the same.  A generous cans commission is allowed, and the premiums are certainly fine.  If one gives lessons in needlework, or there is something which brings customers to her home – perhaps for fresh vegetables or milk – she will have a fine opportunity; and if she looks well after the renewals, subscription-getting will develop into a real business.  Many people would rather give a subscription to a responsible person that ot send it on themselves.  –A Subscriber.

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After having buttonholes plain scallops – any scallops, indeed – do not cut away the goods close to the stitches, but leave a narrow margin which may be felled smoothly down on the wrong side.  This effectually prevents fraying, no matter how frequently the article is laundered.  –Mrs. George Clark

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Often, when a piece of drawnwork is laundered, the edges will ruffle and have anything but a pleasing appearance.  This can be avoided by first placing a cloth over your table-pad and stretching the piece tightly, pinning it to the pad to hold it securely in place; then press as usual, with a moderately warm iron.  –Mrs.  G. M. H.

Page 25

In making eyelets when it is not desirable to carry the thread from one to another, adopt this plan:  Finish the eyelet, then pass the needle along under the stitches on the wrong side about one third.  It holds firmly and does not show the fastening.

**********

Something a little out of the ordinary in draperies for a girls’ room are the new cotton crepes.  These make pretty hangings for a bedroom, and are now being used for this purpose.  As these goods can be laundered frequently and need not be ironed, the draperies can always be kept fresh and clean.  The crepe is manufactured in lovely  designs andn in almost any color, and any particular color-scheme could be carried out.

 

Page 27

Underwear Made of Handkerchiefs

Very frequently, at a “sale,” one is able to purchase fine handkerchiefs at a low price, and they may be put to other uses than the one for which originally intended.  Most of you have seen and admired, perhaps possessed, the pretty dresser-covers which require three or four squares of hemstitched linen or lawn placed in a row, separated by lace insertion and trimmed with edging to match; then there are handkerchief-cases, fancy-work bags, and a variety of dainty articles for which handkerchiefs form the foundation, and they are also adapted to the fashioning of underwear.

**********

Two handkerchiefs of fine lawn or linen will suffice for a dainty and unique corset-cover that the particular girl will find pleasure in making for herself.

**********

They must be chose to match, with a narrow hemstitched border and, if possible, lines of fine lace inset all around.  Handkerchiefs with embroidered corners, or with a dainty design of fine embroidery inside the hem, are quite as nice for this work, and have the advantage of wearing longer than those with lace inset.

**********

Fold the handkerchiefs over crosswise and pin firmly; then cut through the fold, which will give you four triangular pieces of material.  These four corner pieces are then sewed by hand with the over-and-over stitch to inch-wide embroidered insertion or beading, so that they will fit together, forming a point up both in front and back and points down under the arms.

**********

A semicircular piece is cut out of the underarm pieces to form the armhole, and these are joined at the top with strips of embroidered beading that is whipped on all around the armhole, and also continued around the top of the garment.  On the outer edge of this a narrow lace edging is sewed, whipped on with very fine stitches.  The bottom of the garment is finished with a two-inch-wide beading, through which ribbon is run, as it is through the beading on the other parts of the garment.

**********

When sewing the beading between the hemstitched edges of the  handkerchiefs, do not cut it off at the raw edge, but turn it over neatly, and continue with the same strip for the joining of the next section of handkerchief.

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To make a chemise it will be necessary to add only a nainsook skirt to the top already made.  One and a half yards of nainsook will be required; but this is wider than is necessary, so from each length you cut a five-inch strip.  Sew the two widths up as you would for a plain petticoat, and join it to the corset-cover by gathering the top and whipping it to the wide beading.

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Either finish the skirt with a three-inch hem or add a three- inch ruffle to it and edge the ruffle with narrow lace matching that used on the corset-cover.

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This same pattern may be adopted for an Empire evening petticoat and be the correct thing to wear under a lingerie gown made with a high waist.  The skirt is cut longer on this, however, and should be finished with a deeper flounce, the length depending on the size of the wearer.  The flounce at the bottom of the skirt may be put on with wide beading at its head , and through this ribbon is run and tied with a full bow on the side.

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Very lovely are the combinations made with silk handkerchiefs and petticoats of China silk.  Such garments are acceptable additions to the trousseau and make ideal gifts for the prospective bride.

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Requests

Will some one kindly send directions, with sample, for making cuffs to match the round collar which appeared in July, 1911, Needlecraft?  The collar is a pineapple pattern, and the loveliest I ever saw.  The lady for whom I made it wants cuffs to match, but although I have tried in every way I have gotten nothing that is satisfactory; so I turn to “our paper.”  --Mrs. F. W. S.

“Palmetto lace” is beautiful, but a little wider than I want.  Will not some one send a pattern as nearly like it as possible, but with fewer stitches – say about fifty?  I shall be greatly obliged.  ---Mrs. H. A. H.

I should like a new design for crochet bedspread, to be made of carpet-warp in the “popcorn-“ or roll-stitch.  --- Mrs. H. Brooks.

Will not some one send directions, with samples to illustrate, for coat-collar and cuffs in crochet?  I shall be very grateful.  --- Mrs. A. P.

I am very anxious to learn how to make a pretty purse and bag of muskmelon-seeds.  ---Ethel Vititoe.

I wish to obtain directions for a counterpane-square in filet-crochet, with a flying bird, a running deer or animal of some kind in center.  I don not care for any border around the edge, but desire full directions for the pattern.  --- Mrs. C. P.

Will some one send directions for crocheting a lady’s sweater coat?  --- Miss E. M. S.

I particularly wish some new designs in crochet for tea-cosies.  I should like one in filet-crochet, with a teapot or tea0cup and saucer on one side, and the words “The Cup That Cheers.”  ---Canadienne.

Will some one kindly send directions for a cap – not bonnet or hood – for a child of one and one-half or two years?  Should prefer it crocheted, in puff-stitch, or other fancy stitch.  --- Mrs.  L. C Bates..

Page 28

When stitching seams on the machine in a silk garment, use either fine cotton or one thread cotton and the other of silk.  By so doing you will obviate any puckering of the seams, and if you should have to rip them you will have far less trouble.

Page 29

A clever way of introducing color into the dainty guest-towel has been evolved by a woman who is always originating fascinating ideas.  Wanting more distinctive coloring than that given by means of a cross-stitch design, she makes the hems of the huck-towel of a plain linen, harmonizing in shade with the cross-stitching.  The towel has several threads drawn across either end about a quarter of an inch from the cut edge; this is hemstitched.  Two pieces of linen a trifle more than two inches in width and just a little longer than the width of the towel are cut.  These are to make false hems.  To make these, turn the ends in and hem very carefully, so the pieces will be the exact length that the towel is wide.  Next, turn the linen in along either of the long edges just the width of a hem.  Now slip the rough cut ends of the towel between the folded hems, baste carefully and then hem into position, following closely the line of hemstitching.  When finished, the ends will be so deftly placed that is will require close inspection to see just how the colored hems have been accomplished.

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One sees many variations upon the Robespierre, Directoire, Dauphin and other collars that have been popular during the summer, and a very tiny collar of sharply contrasting color or colors is often the only neck-finish of the modish coat.

Page 30

A touch of black is almost inevitable in the newest collars.  We find it in practically all the new collars.  A collar of finely plaited white net rounded at the ends and finished with a narrow plaiting of lace will have a band of black velvet at the base.  The sailor-collar of white batiste with tab-like ends in front, edged on either side with a plaiting of white lace, will boast of the touch of black in the tiny black satin buttons.  Another collarette of batiste and lace has a jabot of the lace and tie of black satin terminating in a flat bow in the front.  A fold of the satin is introduced on the collarette.  There are also the bands of black velvet finished with a bow in the back.  Sometimes a handsome antique buckle or a genuine old pin will adorn the band in the front, but the effect is more youthful without it.

 

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Centerpiece in Baby Irish Crochet

1912, November, Page 30

By Mrs. E. W. Walker

Make a chain of 8 stitches, join.

1.  (Chain 6, fasten with 1 double in ring) 5 times.

2.  A single under 5 chain, chain 3 for a treble, 5 trebles under same chain, (chain 3, 6 trebles in next loop) 4 times, chain 3 and join to top of 3 chain.

3.  Chain 3, a treble in each treble and 3 under 3 chain, all around, join.

4.  Chain 4, miss 3 trebles and fasten between next 2; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st started.

5.  Slip-stitch to center of 4 chain, * chain 6, fasten under next 4 chain; repeat.

6.  Slip-stitch to center of 6 chain, * chain 6, fasten under next 6 chain; repeat.

7.  Under each loop of 6 chain make 1 double, 7 trebles and 1 double.  This row completes a wheel which serves as a very pretty medallion for shirtwaists, combined with embroidery, or it may be used in a variety of ways for which such a wheel is suitable.

8.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st scallop, * (chain 9, faster back in 6^th stitch from needle to for a picot) twice, chain 3, fasten in center of next scallop; repeat from * around.

9.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st picoted chain, * (chain 9, picot) twice, chain 3, fasten in top of loop between next 2 picots; repeat around, joining last chain where 1^st started.

10.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st loop, * (chain 9, picot) 3 times, chain 3, fasten in center of next loop; repeat around, joining where 1^st chain started.

11.  Slip-stitch to 2d picot (or, if preferred, the thread may be fastened off and joined in at the place designated), chain 4, a double treble in same picot, keeping top loops of each on hook and working off together, chain 3, 2 double trebles, worked off together, in same picot, *chain 12, 2 double trebles in picot at top of next loop, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same picot, always working the groups of double trebles off together, repeat from * around, chain 12, join to top of 1^st group.

(Note: original skipped #12.)

13.  Chain 5, * miss 1, a treble in next stitch, chain 2’ repeat from * around and join to 3d of 5 chain.

14. Chain 7, miss 1 space, fasten in next; repeat.

15, 16.  Slip-stitch to center of chain, * chain 7, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

17.  Under each loop of 7 chain make 1 double, 9 trebles and 1 double.  This row completes a very pretty doily.

18.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st scallop, * chain 4, a double treble in same place, working off together, a double treble in same place, working off together, a double treble in top of next scallop, chain 4, fasten in same place; repeat from * around, ending with a double treble in stitch where the row started, chain 4, fasten in same.

19.  Slip-stitch to top of cluster, *chain 5, a triple treble in same place, a triple treble in center of next cluster, chain 5, fasten in same place; repeat, ending with a triple treble and 5 chain to complete the row.

20.  Same as 19^th row.

21.  Slip-stitch to top of 1^st cluster, chain 4, a double treble in same place, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same place, working off together, * chain 4, 2 double trebles, as described, in top of next cluster, chain 3, 2 double trebles in same place; repeat from *, joining last 4 chain to top of 1^st cluster.

22.  Chain 5, * a treble under 3 chain, chain 2, a treble in 1^st of 4 chain, chain 2, a treble in last of 4 chain, chain 2, repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain to 3d of 5 chain.

23.  A single under 2 chain, chain 7, a treble under same chain, *miss 1 space, 1 treble in next, chain 4, a treble in same space; repeat from * around, join to 3d of 7 chain.

24.  A single under 4 chain, chain 8, a treble under same chain, 1 treble, chain 6 and 1 treble under next chain, repeat around, joining to 3d of 8 chain.

25.  Slip-stitch center of 5 chain, * chain 7, fasten under next 5 chain; repeat around.

26.  Slip-stitch under 7 chain, chain 5 for a triple treble, a triple treble under same chain, (chain 4, 2 triple trebles under same chain, working off together) twice, * 3 groups of triple trebles under next 7 chain, with 4 chain between each 2 groups, repeat from * around and join to top of 1^st group or cluster.

27.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, *chain 5, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

28, 29.  Same as 27^th row.

30.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, chain 5 for triple treble, a triple treble in same place, * chain 4, 2 triple trebles under next chain, working off together, repeat from * around, chain 4 and join to top of 1^st cluster.

31.  Same as 30^th row.

32.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, * chain 5, fasten under next chain; repeat around.

33.  Slip-stitch to center of 1^st chain, * chain 6, fasten in next chain; repeat around.

34.  Under each loop of chain make 1 double, 8 trebles and 1 double.

35.  Slip-stitch to center of scallop, * chain 5, fasten in center of next scallop; repeat.

36.  Chain 5, * a treble in 3d of 5 chain, chain 2, a treble in double, over top of scallop, chain 2, repeat from * around, join to 3d of 5 chain.

37.  A single in space, * chain 12, miss 2 spaces, fasten in next chain 3, fasten in next space, turn; (chain 5, a double treble under 12 chain) 5 times, chain 5, a treble under same chain, chain 2, fasten in space back of where the 12 chain started, chain 3, fasten back in next, turn; a treble under 2 chain, 6 trebles under each 5 chain, fasten in next but 1 space forward, turn; chain 6, miss 3 trebles, fasten between next 2; repeat around scallop, turn; chain 7, fasten under 6 chain, repeat around scallop, catching in 2d space forward after fastening the last chain, turn; chain 7, fasten under 7 chain, repeat around scallop, fastening in 2d space back, turn; chain 3, fasten in next space, * 2 double trebles under 7 chain, 2 picots (that is, chain 5, fasten in 1^st stitch of 5 chain) twice, 2 double trebles under same chain, picot, repeat from * around scallop, miss 2 spaces after making last 2 doubles trebles, fasten in next, then slip-stitch along over 8 spaces, again chain 12, and repeat the scallop.

Made of No. 90 linen thread, this gives a centerpiece about fifteen inches in diameter, if worked rather closely.  Coarser thread would, of course, result in a much larger piece, and there is such a difference in methods of working that it is quite impossible to state the exact size of an article, even though the same number of thread is used by two workers.  It must be understood, too, that if one does her work tightly more chain-stitches are required than if loosely done.  These variations every experienced crocheter understands and makes allowance for.

 

 

 

 

Easily Made Frocks

1912, November, Page 28

 

Girls’ Dress

Brown is one of the newest colors for little girls’ dresses this season, and for this reason was chosen in the construction of the smart little garment given in model No. 5308.

Cashmere in the warm, golden shade of the color, is the material used, with satin of a little deeper shade to trim the frock.

The dress is made with separate guimpe.  Body and sleeves of the garment are cut in one, the yoke-bands at front and back being especially attractive.

The skirt is becomingly plaited, and is joined to the waist by a narrow belt.  The guimpe may be of allover, as shown in the drawing, or of silk, mull or other contrasting fabric.

The pattern, No. 5308, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.    Eight-year-old size will require 2 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, and 3/8 of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods for dress, and 1 1/8 yards of 36-inch material for guimpe.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Girls’ Dress

Quite a becoming frock for a growing girl is shown in design No. 5972.

The frock is made in simulated sailor-fashion.  It closes at the front, and has the pretty sailor-collar, which is a feature of dresses of this nature.

The short sleeves have narrow band cuffs, and the skirt is nicely plaited, with a box plait at center-front and center-back.

The garment may be carried out daintily in white serge, with black braid trimming, and with black-satin tie and patent-leather belt for completion.  White pearl buttons may be used on the waist, effecting the left-side front fastening.

The pattern, No. 5972, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ½ yards of 36-inch material, ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Children’s Yoke Dress

The clever little garment offered in model No. 5968 is simplicity itself in construction.  It has a pretty round yoke, and can be finished with high or low neck, and with long or short sleeves.

Pale-blue linen or pique is a nice development-suggestion, with the yoke, belt and cuffs of embroidery insertion.

The pattern, No. 5968, is cut in sizes for 2, 4, 6 and 8 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, 2 ½ yards of 36-inch fabric, or 2 1/8 yards of goods 44 inches wide, with 3/8 of a yard of 22-inch allover.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

 

 

Children’s Dress

Model No. 5970 gives an attractive little wash-dress, made of pink linen, with hand-embroidered yoke. 

The garment is quite easy to make, and is very dressy.  The style is one that is generally becoming.  There is a box plait beneath the center of the yoke front and back.  The closing is at the back.

White linen may be used, with allover-embroidery yoke, and any of the other wanted wash-fabrics may be utilized.

The pattern, No. 5970, is cut in sizes for 1, 3, 5 and 7 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 27-inch material, with 3/8 of a yard of 270inch contrasting goods.  .  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

 

Clever Outer Garments

1912, November, Page 26

Girls’ and Children’s Circular Cape

Here is a splendid idea for a school-wrap for a small girl.  The cape is very simple to make, and can be finished in either of two lengths, and has a hood.  Serge, broadcloth, and similar materials may be used to develop the model.

The pattern, No. 3915, is cut in sizes for from 2 to 12 years.  To make the cape in the medium size will require 3 yards of 36-inch material for the long cape, or 2 ½ yards of the same width for the short cape.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Girls’ Double-Breasted Coat

A delightful design for a coat is offered in model No. 5986, which can be made in a short time, and of any of the new woolen fabrics so popular for this purpose.  The model is double-breasted, and has a sailor-collar, single revers and cuffs of contrasting goods.

The pattern, No. 5986, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 3 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 ½ yards of 44-inch, with ¾ of a yard of 27-inch mohair.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Boy’s Suit

Quite the thing for school-wear is the attractive sailor-suit for a young lad, given in design No. 5976.

The blouse is made with large sailor-collar, trimmed with braid.  The shield is removable, and there is a handkerchief-pocket at the front for completion.  The sleeves are nicely plaited at the bottom

The bloomers are made in the regulation fashion, and are finished with legbands or elastic.

Blue serge, with red braid and a red-silk tie will develop the model becomingly.  Blue, trimmed with black or white, is also nice.

The pattern, No. 5976, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the suit in the medium size will require 2 5/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

A Pretty Water-Set

1912, November, Page 25

By Mrs. M. H. Kent

Wind the thread over a small lead-pencil eight or ten times, slip off and fill the ring with 24 doubles, joining last to 1^st with slip-stitch.

1.  Chain 7, *miss 2 doubles, a treble in next, chain 3: repeat from *, joining last 3 chain to 3d of 7 chain, forming 8 spaces in all.

2.  Make 8 doubles under each 4 chain, joining last to 1^st with a slip-stitch.

3.  A double in each of 4 doubles, which will bring you over the center of the loop, *chain 2, a double in each of 8 doubles; repeat from *, ending with 4 doubles; join.

4.  Slip-stitch to 2 chain, chain 5, for a triple treble, 3 triple trebles in same loop, *chain 5, 4 triple trebles in enxt loop, repeat from * around, joining last 5 chain to top of 1^st 5 chain; to make the triple treble, put thread over 3 times, and proceed the same as with treble.

5.  A double in each stitch of last row.

6.  Chain 3 for a treble, a treble in each double, taking both loops of the stitch, and widening every 4^th or 5^th stitch to keep the work flat.

7.  A double in each stitch, widening every 4^th or 5^th.  There should be 112 stitches in this row.

8.  Chain 3, 11 trebles in 11 stitches, *chain 4, miss 2, 12 trebles in 12 stitches, repeat from * around, joining last 4 chain to top of 3 chain which represents 1^st treble.

9.  Slip-stitch over 2 trebles, *8 doubles in next 8 trebles, chain 4, a double under 4 chain, chain 2, a double under same chain, chain 4; miss 2 of 12 trebles, repeat from * around, joining last 4 chain to 1^st double.

10.  Slip-stitch in next double, chain 3, 5 trebles in 5 doubles, *chain 4, a treble under 2 chain, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 4, 6 trebles over 8 doubles, missing 1^st and last, repeat around, joining last 4 chain to top of 3 chain.

11.  Make 4 doubles over 6 trebles, missing 1^st and last, chain 4, 7 triple trebles, with 1 chain between, under 3 chain, chain 4; repeat around, joining last 4 chain as usual.

12.  Slip-stitch in next double, chain 3, a treble in next double, keeping top loop of each on hook and working off together, * chain 4, (3 trebles under 1 chain between 2 triple trebles, keeping top loops of all on hook and working off together, closing the cluster very tightly with a chain-stitch, chain 1) 6 times, chain 4, 2 trebles in 2 doubles, missing 1^st and last, and working off the trebles together, repeat from * around, joining last 4 chain to top of 1^st group.

13.  Chain 6, (a treble under 1 chain, chain 7, fasten back in 5^th stitch from needle for a picot, chain 20 4 times, a treble under next 1 chain, chain 6, a double in top of cluster of 2 trebles; repeat the row around, joining last 6 chain where 1^st started.

This completes the tumbler-doily which, made of No. 70 linen thread, is a little more than four inches in diameter.

For the carafe-doily, or centerpiece, proceed as described to the 6^th row of the tumbler-doily; this row should have 96 trebles.

7.  A double in each of 6 trebles; chain 2; repeat around, joining last 2 chain to 1^st double.

8.  Slip-stitch to 2 chain (if preferred, the previous row may begin with 1 double in treble, chain 2, 6 doubles, and so on, ending with 5 doubles; if this is done, you have but to slip-stitch over 1 double to the 2 chain), chain 5, 4 triple trebles under same 2 chain, *chain 5, 5 triple trebles under next 2 chain; repeat around, joining last 3 chain to top of 5 chain.

9.  A double in each stitch all around, with 2 doubles in 2d of 3 chain.

10.  A treble in double, chain 1, miss 1; repeat around, only making a treble in each of the 2 doubles over center of 3 chain, and 2 trebles (with 1 chain between) over the 3d of the 5 double trebles.

11.  A double in each stitch, all around.  There should be 210 doubles in this row.

12.  Make 13 doubles in 13 doubles, chain 4, miss 2; repeat around, joining last 4 chain to 1^st double.

13.  Make 9 doubles over 13 doubles (slip-stitching over 1^st 2 of the row), missing 1^st and last 2, chain 5, fasten under 4 chain, chain 5, repeat around and join.

14.  Make 5 doubles over 9 doubles, missing 1^st and last 2, (chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5; repeat around, join.

15.  Make 2 trebles over center of 5 doubles (chain 2 for 1^st treble of the row), (chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) 3 times, chain 5; repeat around, join.

16.  Make 5 doubles over the 2 trebles and in the chain each side, (chain 5, fasten under 5 chain) twice, chain 5; repeat around, join.

17.  Make 9 doubles over 5 doubles and under the chain each side, chain 5, fasten under 5 chain, chain 5; repeat around, join.

18.  Make 13 doubles over 9 doubles and under chain each side, chain 4; repeat around, join.

19.  A double in each stitch, all around.

20.  Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next stich, chain 1; repeat around, joining to 3d of 4 chain.

21.  A double in each stitch; there should be 280 stitches in all.

22.  Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 stitches, * chain 5, miss 3, 17 trebles in 17 doubles; repeat from * around, joining last 5 chain to top of 3 chain at beginning of row.

23.  Make 11 doubles over 17 trebles, missing 1^st and last 3 (slip-stitch over 1^st 3 of the row), chain 5, a double in center of 5 chain, chain 2, a double in same place, chain 5; repeat around, joining as usual.

24.  Make 7 trebles over 11 doubles, missing 1^st and last 2 (to commence the row, slip-stitch over 2 doubles and chain 3), chain 5, a treble under 2 chain, chain 4, a treble in same place, chain 5; repeat around, join.

25.  Make 5 doubles over 7 trebles, missing 1^st and last, chain 4, 9 triple trebles under 4 chain, chain 4; repeat around, join.

26.  Make 3 trebles over 5 doubles, (chain 3 for 1^st) missing 1^st and last, chain 3, (3 trebles under 1 chain between triple trebles, working all off together and closing with a tight chain, chain 1) 7 times, 3 trebles under last 1 chain, closing as described, chain 3; repeat around, join.

27.  Slip-stitch in 2d treble, chain 3, *(a treble under 1 chain between 2 clusters of trebles in last row, chain 3, a treble in same place) 7 times, a treble in 2d of 3 trebles; repeat from * around, joining last treble to top of 3 chain at beginning of row.

28.  Slip-stitch over treble and under 3 chain following, * chain 7, fasten back in 5^th stitch for a picot, chain 2, a double under next 3 chain; repeat from * around, join, and fasten off neatly.

For School Wear

1912, November, Page 24

Girls’ Dress

Another frock in very becoming style is presented in design No. 4784.  This garment closes at the front, which makes it convenient for the child to put on and off.

The waist has shoulder-plaits front and back, which extend to the waistline.  The closing-line of the waist is cut diagonally, and is outlined with braid, which extends down the skirt to the bottom.  The collar and cuffs are trimmed with braid.

The skirt is plaited and joined to the waist by a belt.  Serge, cashmere, cheviot, plaid woolen, checks and stripes are good development-ideas.

The pattern, No. 4784, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 ¼ yards of 36-inch material, or 2 ¾ yards of goods 44 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





 

Children’s Dress

The delightful little model given in design No. 5962 is made of white Jap silk, with insertion trimming.

It has the waist tucked in the form of a yoke front and back, broken in the center at the front by a double row of insertion, with a plain space in the center.

The collarless neck is cut round, and is finished with edging.  The short sleeves have a band of insertion, finished with edging.  The skirt may be plaited, or gathered, having straight lower edge.

The pattern, No. 5962, is cut in sizes for 4, 6 and 8 years.  Age 8 requires 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, 2 3/8 yards of 44-inch fabric, or 2 yards of goods 50 inches wide, with 1 ½ yards of edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





 

Girls’ Dress

The pretty dress shown in design No. 5964 is made of red-and-white plaid woolen, with plain white collar, shield and cuffs.

The blouse closes at the left side of the front, and the three-gored skirt is joined to an underwaist.

This is a very attractive garment, and one quite simple to make.  A red patent-leather belt holds the blouse in position.  The tie is of red silk.

The pattern, No. 5964, is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 2 ¾ yards of 44-inch material, with ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  The underwaist requires ½ yard of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Girls’ Underwaist Set

Design No. 5977 shows a splendid underwaist set for a little girl, and one very simple to make.

It consists of an underwaist, drawers, and a circular or gathered petticoat.  The neck and armholes are trimmed with edging, and the petticoat has two rows of insertion, and is finished with wide embroidery edging.

The pattern, No. 5977, is cut in sizes for from 4 to 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 7/8 of a yard of 36-inch material, and 1 ½ yards of edging for the waist, 1 yard of 36-inch material, 2 yards of insertion, and 1 ½ yards of edging for the drawers, and 1 yard of 36-inch material, with 3 ½ yards of insertion for the circular petticoat.  If the gathered petticoat is used 1 ½ yards of 36-inch material, 3 3/8 yards of insertion and 2 ¼ yards of edging are required.  If made of one material, the set requires 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Two Pretty Yokes in Knitting

1912, November, page 22

Square Yoke for Corset-Cover or Chemise

By Clara M. Folsom

Cast on 50 stitches; knit across plain.

1.  Slip 1, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 8, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, *over, narrow, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

2.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

3.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, *knit 1, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

4.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 5, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, *(knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.  By binding off the 3 stitches in one row and replacing them by putting thread over 3 times in the next, the beading in which to run ribbon is formed.

5.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, *knit 2, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

6.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

7.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

8.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, (knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 8.

9.  Like 3d row to *; knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

10.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

11.  Like 5^th  to *; knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 11, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

12.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, *over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 8.

13.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 10, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

14.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th row from *.

15.  like 3d to *; knit 7, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

16.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 7, *over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

17.  Like 4^th to *; knit 8, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

18.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th row from *.

19.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 9, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 19.

20.  Bind off 4, knit 15; like 12^th from *.

21.  Like 3d to *; knit 10, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

22.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 3; like 16^th row from *.

23.  Like 5^th to *; knit 11, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

24.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th from *.

25.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 12, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

26.  Like 6^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

27.  Like 3d to *; knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 8, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

28.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3, over narrow, knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

29.  Like 5^th to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 14.

30.  Bind off 4, knit 15, over, narrow, knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

31. Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 1; like 1^st row from *.

32.  Like 2d to *; knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 8.

33.  Like 3d to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

34.  Like 4^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

35.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

36.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13; like 12^th row from *.

37.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

38.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th from *.

39.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

40.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

Make the pattern three times for one front, bind off 35 stitches, continue the scallop with the holes for beading on the remaining stitches until you have fourteen scallops for one shoulder, then cast on 35 stitches and knit the pattern six times for the back.  Make the other shoulder and front in the same way.  Make seventeen inches the same as shoulder for inside of arm.  Run three-eighths-inch ribbon in the holes and tie on shoulders and in front.

No. 38 lace thread was sued for this yoke, which is large enough for thirty-two or thirty-four-inch bust measure; it may be easily increased in size, however, by knitting an extra pattern, and adding to the length of shoulder.

In crochet cord or knitting-cotton the insertion without the scallops, also omitting the purling, if preferred, makes a very pretty stripe for a bedspread.  With the edge of scallops, omitting the purling – which any knitter can readily do after having knitted the pattern as described – one has a very attractive lace while the scallop itself makes a neat, pretty edging for under-garments and any small article.

Yoke for Knitted Undervest

By Mrs. Lura Fletcher

Using No. 17 or No. 18 needles (finer, if preferred) and No. 60 crochet-cotton, cast on 44 stitches and knit across once plain.

1.  Knit 5 (the 1^st stitch of each row at this edge may be slipped), over 3 times, slip 2d, 3e and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st stitch, knit that stitch and 2 more, *over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, *knit 3, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st,knit 5, over, knit 1, (over, knit 3 together) twice.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in loop, knit 3, *purl 3, knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 9, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 18, purl 3, knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1) twice, purl 3, knit 11.

5.  Knit 11, over, knit 1; over, narrow, (purl 1, narrow) 3 times, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 19, purl 4, (knit 1, purl 1) twice, knit 1, purl 4, knit 11.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 3, over, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 7, narrow, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 12, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, knit 11.

9.  Knit 11, over, knit 5, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 19, purl 15, knit 11.

11.  Repeat from * to * in 1^st row, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 11, repeat * to * in 2d row, knit 11.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are fifteen scallops for the back.  Break off the thread, leaving at least eight inches, and lay aside with the stitches still on the needle.

For the underarm piece take another needle, cast on 2- stitches and knit across plain.

1.  Knit 5, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st, knit 5, over, knit 1, over, knit 3 together.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 20.

5.  Knit 10, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 21.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 15.

9.  Knit 12, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 22.

11.  Knit 13, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 14.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are nine scallops for the underarm; then, as you knit to the top or selvage edge, take the strip you have completed for the back and knit the last stitch on your needle with the 1^st stitch of the other (the two selvages together); turn, knit 1^st row of scallop, turn, knit back to the top as usual, knitting last stitch with next stitch of the back.  Continue in this way until 24 stitches (the insertion) are joined, leaving the 20 stitches of the scallop still on the needle.

Now proceed with the overarm strip, which has the scallop on each edge.  Knit across the edge which you have just joined to the roseleaf insertion, then continue with the scallop exactly as you knitted it when making the back of the yoke.  Knit until you have seven scallops (on each edge) for the shoulder, then divide, having 20 stitches on each needle.  Leave the upper edge, and knit four scallops on the underarm, joining to the beginning of the underarm strip by knitting together.

Now take the upper or shoulder needle, with the remaining 20 stitches, and pick up 24 stitches along the selvage of the four scallops last knitted, 1 stitch from every other row, and making the original 44 stitches.  Continue with the front, making it the same as the back, and proceed with the other arm exactly as directed for the first, joining the ends by knitting together loosely enough not to draw the work.

Finish by running ribbon through the beading spaces, front and back, and around the arms.  Strengthen the plain space between the beading over the shoulder, by neatly applying narrow tape on the under side.

The lace in itself is very pretty; and the edging with the beading may be applies without the insertion to the neck and sleeves of a corset-cover or combination garment.