Needlecrafters’ Own Page

Conducted by Our Readers
1913 08, page 14

 

This department has been urgently requested.  It is intended as a clearing-house of ideas – a sort of “give-and-get” club, every member of which is privileged to ask for any desired article of needlework with explicit instructions for making, and in her turn to give, as opportunity offers.  Requests for such work as the editor herself is able to supply will not be printed, but the articles asked for shall appear in due season.  Let us all be glad to give as well as get, and thus aid in making The Needlecrafters’ Own Page the most helpful and delightful part of the paper.

Double-Fan Insertion

By Mrs. Sarah A. Griffith

Cast on 38 stitches, and knit across once.

1.      Slip 1, knit 1, over, narrow, *knit 8, over 3 times, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 9, **over, narrow, knit 1.

2.     Edge (that is, like 1^st row to *); purl 8, make 6 stitches in the 3 “overs” by (purl 1, knit 1) three times, purl 14, again make 6 stitches in the three overs, purl 9; edge (that is, like 1^st row from **).

3.     Edge; (narrow, knit 18) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

4.     Edge; purl 40; edge

5.     Edge; narrow, knit 5, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 6, (over, knit 1) 6 times, over, knit 5, narrow, knit 1; edge.

6.     Edge; purl 51; edge.

7.     Edge; (narrow, knit 22) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

8.     Edge; purl 48; edge.

9.     Edge; narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 4, narrow, knit 5, over, knit 3, narrow, knit 1; edge.

10.  Edge; purl 45; edge.

11.  Edge; (narrow, knit 19) twice, narrow, knit 1; edge.

12.  Edge; purl 42; edge.

13.  Edge; knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together, over, knot 9 together, over, knit 3 together, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, knit 3 together. Knit 1; edge.

14.  Edge; purl 30; edge.

15.  Edge; knit 15, over, knit 15; edge.

16.  Edge; purl 31; edge.

Repeat from 2d row.

In crochet-cord or knitting-cotton this makes a wide and handsome stripe for a counterpane, to be finished with a border of lace having a single row of fans.

 

 

Hexagon for Bedspread, Diamond Pattern

By Mrs. A. L. Montgomery

 

Use crochet-cord, white or cream-color, as preferred; No. 25 linen thread, or finer, makes a very handsome spread.

Commence with a chain of 8 stitches, join.

1.      Chain 3 for 1^st treble, 23 trebles in ring, join to top of 3 chain.

2.     A single between 3 chain and 1^st treble, chain 3, a treble in same place, chain 2, 2 trebles in same place, *chain 2, miss 4 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between next 2; repeat from * 4 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain in 1^st shell.

3.     Slip-stitch to center of shell, chain 3, 1 treble, 2 chain and 2 trebles in same shell, *chain 2, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain as before.

4.     Commencing with 1^st shell as in preceding row (do this every row), make shell in shell, a tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

5.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row, always) chain 2, tuft-stich under 2 chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under 2 chain, chain 2, tuft-stich under next 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

6.     Shell in shell, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2, treble in chain preceding the trebles of last row, a treble in each treble, 1 in chain following, chain 2, tuft-stitch under 2 chain, chain 2; repeat around, join.

7, 8, 9, 10, 11.  Same as 6^th row, increasing the trebles between the tuft-stitches by 2 each row, or by 3 if found necessary, to keep the work perfectly flat.

The hexagon may be made as large as desired; one has simply to continue increasing as directed.  Finished with a lace border, when of required size, it makes a very handsome centerpiece.  Indeed, an entire set of mats, large and small, may be made in the same way, and numerous used will be found for the pattern.  In making a bedspread join the hexagons either with single crochet or by means of needle and thread, matching the portions exactly and making the joining as invisible as possible.  By having your crochet-work in a convenient place where it can be caught up for a few minutes’ work now and then, a sufficient number of hexagons for a handsome p of spread will be completed almost before you are aware. 

Tuft-stitch is made as follows:  Make 7 trebles under 2 chain, drop the top loop of last treble, insert hook in top of 1^st treble made, pick up the dropped loop and draw through, then chain 2, and continue.  The 7 trebles are thus closely joined to form a cluster or tuft.

Another diamond hexagon, simple and pretty, is made in much the same way.  Chain 8, join.

1.      Chain 3, a treble in ring, *chain 2, 2 trebles in ring, repeat from * 10 times, chain 2 and join to top of 3 chain.  There will be 12 groups of 2 trebles, each separated by 2 chain.

2.     Slip-stitch to 2 chain, chain 3, a treble under chain, chain 2, 2 trebles under next chain, chain 2, shell under next; repeat from * around, joining last 2 chain to top of 3 chain.

3.     Shell in shell (commencing as in 3d row of first hexagon), chain 2, 2 trebles in each treble of last row, chain 2; repeat.

4.     Shell in shell, chain 2, 2 trebles in 1^st treble following, treble in each treble following with 2 in last, chain 2; repeat.

5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.  Same as 4^th row, making shell in shell with 2 chain each side, and increasing the trebles between shells by putting 2 in 1^st and last, with treble in treble between.  Continue until the hexagon is of the size desired.

Remember that the beauty of a spread formed of these hexagons depends largely on the neatness and exactness with which the joining is done.  The centers of shells must meet, and also each stitch between, the needle passing through a treble of each hexagon at the same time.  Do not draw the thread too tightly, whether you use a sewing-needle or crochet-hook; but bring the stitches firmly together so that the diamonds will have the appearance of having been made whole, treble meeting treble as if one had been worked in another.

Either hexagon, but the way, increased in size as required and fashioned of suitable material, will make a handsome, serviceable cover for organ- or piano-stool.

Elephant in Filet-Crochet

By Lady English

As arranged, this design makes a very pleasing inset for children’s towels, scarf for a child’s room, or other similar article.  One mother, who delights in interesting her little people and making their room pleasant and attractive, has a different inset or insertion – representing animals or birds – for each towel.  The same designs may be cross-stitched if desired, reversing the method of copying a cross-stitch pattern in filet- or block-crochet; that is, the space filled with trebles is cross-stitched, open spaces left plain.

Use linen thread No. 50 – finer if desired – and make a chain of 81 stitches.

1.      Miss 7, 1 treble in next stitch, (chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble in next, forming a space) 24 times, turn.

2.     Chain 5, a treble in next treble, (2 in space and 1 in treble) 23 times, making 70 trebles in all, chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, forming the last space, turn.

3.     Chain 5, 4 trebles in 4 trebles (as the beginning of every row is the same to this point we will simply call this “edge”, hereafter), 21 spaces, then the edge of 4 trebles (counting all), chain 2, a treble in 3d stitch of turning chain, turn.

4.     Edge; 21 spaces; edge.

5.     Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

6.     Edge; 6 spaces, 7 trebles, 13 spaces, edge.

7.     Edge, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

8.     Edge; 5 spaces, 43 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

9.     Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 2 spaces, 37 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

10.  Edge; 4 spaces, 46 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

11.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 34 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

12.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

13.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

14.  Edge; 2 spaces, 10 trebles, 2 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

15.  Edge; 2 spaces, 34 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

16.  Edge; 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces, 28 trebles, 1 space, 4 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

17.  Edge; 6 spaces, 22 trebles, 2 spaces, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

18.  Edge; 8 spaces, 19 trebles, 7 spaces; edge.

19.  Edge; 7 spaces, 37 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

20.  Edge; 3 spaces, 34 trebles, 6 spaces; edge.

21.   Edge; 2 spaces, 19 trebles, 1 space, 28 trebles, 3 spaces; edge.

22.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces, 16 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

23.  Edge; 2 spaces, 4 trebles 19 spaces, 19 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

24.  Edge; 2 spaces, 22 trebles, 7 spaces, 4 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

25.  Edge; 3 spaces 4 trebles, 3 spaces, (10 trebles, 1 space) twice, 13 trebles, 2 spaces; edge.

26.  Edge; 3 spaces, 25 trebles, 1 space, 16 trebles, 4 spaces; edge.

27.  Edge; 8 spaces, 22 trebles, 5 spaces; edge.

28, 29, 30.  Edge; 21 spaces; edge.  If desired additional rows of spaces may be made between the motifs.

31.  Same as 27^th row.

32.  Same as 26^th row.

Continue in this way to repeat the first motif, reversing the order of rows or working backward.  The 56^th row will be the same as the 2d row, after which a row of spaces entirely across the pattern finished the inset.

To strengthen the edge it is a good plan to work around it in the “buttonhole-crochet” or double stitch, putting 2 doubles into each space with double in treble; at corners make 7 doubles in the space to turn.

Having hemstitched your towel or scarf, apply the inset evenly, about one inch (or as desired) above the hem, and at equal distance from each side, cutting the linen from beneath and felling back securely.

Directions are given for working the motif crosswise; if, however, it is desire to make the inset exactly as shown, it may be worked lengthwise.  To do this, commence with a chain of 176 stitches.

1.      All spaces, 57 in all, commencing as in 1^st row of the crosswise work

2.     Same as 2d row above, making 166 trebles, with a space at each end of row.

3, 4.  Edge; 53 spaces; edge.

5.      Edge; 4 spaces, 10 trebles, *11 spaces; work back from * to beginning of row.

The pattern can be so easily continued in length that it does not seem necessary to give directions in detail.

 

 

Man’s Knitted Silk Sock

By Mrs. A. K. Mansfield

 

 

Use knitting-silk of any desired color; if you knit tightly, use No. 16 steel needles, if loosely, No. 17 or No. 18.

Cast 108 stitches on one needle, as it is easiest to do this, then knit 38 stitches off on the 1^st needle, 36 on the 2d, and 34 on the 3d, and to join the stocking knit 2 stitches from 1^st needle on to the last, which will give you 36 stitches on each needle.

Knit once around plain, then knit 2 and purl 2 for 50 rounds, forming the ribbed or garter top.

The plain knitting is now commenced with the back needle, the one where the end of silk shows at the joining of the top of sock.

1.      Knit 18, make a stitch by knitting in the back of this center stitch, thus making 2 stitches of 1, knit 18, and knit the rest of the round plain.  On the back needle you now have 37 stitches, with 36 on each of the other two.  This extra stitch is the center stitch of the sock, and must be purled in every round.

2 to 39.  Knit plain, always purling the 19^th stitch on back needle.

40.  Knit 15, narrow, knit 1, purl the center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 15; knit remaining two needles plain.

41 to 47.  Knit plain, always purling the center stitch.

48.  Knit 14, narrow, knit 1, purl center stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 14; knit other two needles plain.

Repeat from 41^st row, decreasing on the back needle every 8^th round as directed, until you have completed the 88^th round, in which you have 23 stitches remaining on the back needle, or 95 stitches in all.  Knit 42 rounds plain, without decreasing, but purling always the center stitch on the back needle.

For the heel:  Knit to end of back needle, and from the first side needle (the next needle) knit 13 stitches off on to the back needle.  Knit the remaining 23 stitches from 1^st side needle on to another needle, and knit the second side needle to within 13 stitches of the end.  These 13 stitches you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting.  You now should have 49 stitches on the heel, and 23 on each side needle.  These two front needles are not use again until the heel is completed.

1.     Slip 1^st stitch, purl 23, knit center stitch, purl 24.

2.     Slip 1^st stitch, knit 23, purl center stitch, knit 24.

Repeat these two rows until the heel is long enough, or for 38 rows.  In the 38^th row, when you get to the center, purl 2 together; this ends the center stitch and leaves 48 stitches on your needle.

To round off the heel: Knit 31, narrow, turn work, purl 15 purl 2 together, turn knit 15, narrow, and repeat from * until you have 16 stitches remaining on your needle.  Now with the needle on which you have the 16 stitches pick up and knit 24 stitches along the side of the heel, knit 5 stitches from the front needle on the same; knit all the stitches from the two front needles on to another needle except the last five; knit these 5 stitches on to a third needle, take up and knit 24 stitches down side of heel, and knit off 8 stitches from the first needle on to the third.  You will now have 37 stitches on each side needle and 36 on the front.

Knit once around plain; when you come to the first side needle again, knit that plain to within 7 stitches of the end (that is, knit 30 stitches plain), narrow, knit 5; knit plain across front needle; on third needle (or second side needle) knit 5, slip and bind, knit rest plain.  *Knit two rounds without decreasing, again knit first side needle to within 7 stitches of end, narrow, knit 5, knit across front needle, knit 5 on next needle, slip and bind, knit rest plain, and repeat from * until you have reduced to 29 stitches on each side needle.

Knit plain until the foot is as long as desired’ probably 90 rounds will be sufficient, which will give a length of nine and one-half inches, including the heel.

To narrow the toe: Put as many stitches on the front needle as you have on both the others together; that is, take 6 stitches from one side needle and 5 from the other, and place them on the front needle, making 47 stitches on that, and leaving 23 stitches on one and 24 on the other side needle.  Commence the toe on the front needle thus: *Knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on first back needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit rest plain; on 2d back needle knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; knit 2 rounds plain; repeat from * until you have 44 stitches – more or less according to size of stocking – left on all the needles; then knit front and back stitches together and bind off, fastening securely.  Any other method of narrowing that is preferred may be chosen, but this makes a neat toe.

These direction may be used for cotton or worsted socks, using fewer stitches and needles of size proportioned to the coarser material.  Having knitted one pair of the socks no one will find any difficulty in varying the size as required.

No more acceptable gift to a brother or father could be devised than a pair of these handknit, durable half-hose; and the work of making them is not at all tedious.  Two and one-half ounces of knitting-silk should be sufficient.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Pretty Yokes in Knitting

1912, November, page 22

Square Yoke for Corset-Cover or Chemise

By Clara M. Folsom

Cast on 50 stitches; knit across plain.

1.  Slip 1, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 8, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, *over, narrow, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

2.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

3.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, *knit 1, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

4.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 5, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, *(knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.  By binding off the 3 stitches in one row and replacing them by putting thread over 3 times in the next, the beading in which to run ribbon is formed.

5.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, *knit 2, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

6.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

7.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

8.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, (knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 8.

9.  Like 3d row to *; knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

10.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

11.  Like 5^th  to *; knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 11, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

12.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, *over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 8.

13.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 10, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

14.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th row from *.

15.  like 3d to *; knit 7, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

16.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 7, *over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

17.  Like 4^th to *; knit 8, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

18.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th row from *.

19.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 9, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 19.

20.  Bind off 4, knit 15; like 12^th from *.

21.  Like 3d to *; knit 10, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

22.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 3; like 16^th row from *.

23.  Like 5^th to *; knit 11, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

24.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th from *.

25.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 12, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

26.  Like 6^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

27.  Like 3d to *; knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 8, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

28.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3, over narrow, knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

29.  Like 5^th to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 14.

30.  Bind off 4, knit 15, over, narrow, knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

31. Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 1; like 1^st row from *.

32.  Like 2d to *; knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 8.

33.  Like 3d to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

34.  Like 4^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

35.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

36.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13; like 12^th row from *.

37.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

38.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th from *.

39.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

40.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

Make the pattern three times for one front, bind off 35 stitches, continue the scallop with the holes for beading on the remaining stitches until you have fourteen scallops for one shoulder, then cast on 35 stitches and knit the pattern six times for the back.  Make the other shoulder and front in the same way.  Make seventeen inches the same as shoulder for inside of arm.  Run three-eighths-inch ribbon in the holes and tie on shoulders and in front.

No. 38 lace thread was sued for this yoke, which is large enough for thirty-two or thirty-four-inch bust measure; it may be easily increased in size, however, by knitting an extra pattern, and adding to the length of shoulder.

In crochet cord or knitting-cotton the insertion without the scallops, also omitting the purling, if preferred, makes a very pretty stripe for a bedspread.  With the edge of scallops, omitting the purling – which any knitter can readily do after having knitted the pattern as described – one has a very attractive lace while the scallop itself makes a neat, pretty edging for under-garments and any small article.

Yoke for Knitted Undervest

By Mrs. Lura Fletcher

Using No. 17 or No. 18 needles (finer, if preferred) and No. 60 crochet-cotton, cast on 44 stitches and knit across once plain.

1.  Knit 5 (the 1^st stitch of each row at this edge may be slipped), over 3 times, slip 2d, 3e and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st stitch, knit that stitch and 2 more, *over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, *knit 3, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st,knit 5, over, knit 1, (over, knit 3 together) twice.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in loop, knit 3, *purl 3, knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 9, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 18, purl 3, knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1) twice, purl 3, knit 11.

5.  Knit 11, over, knit 1; over, narrow, (purl 1, narrow) 3 times, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 19, purl 4, (knit 1, purl 1) twice, knit 1, purl 4, knit 11.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 3, over, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 7, narrow, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 12, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, knit 11.

9.  Knit 11, over, knit 5, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 19, purl 15, knit 11.

11.  Repeat from * to * in 1^st row, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 11, repeat * to * in 2d row, knit 11.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are fifteen scallops for the back.  Break off the thread, leaving at least eight inches, and lay aside with the stitches still on the needle.

For the underarm piece take another needle, cast on 2- stitches and knit across plain.

1.  Knit 5, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st, knit 5, over, knit 1, over, knit 3 together.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 20.

5.  Knit 10, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 21.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 15.

9.  Knit 12, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 22.

11.  Knit 13, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 14.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are nine scallops for the underarm; then, as you knit to the top or selvage edge, take the strip you have completed for the back and knit the last stitch on your needle with the 1^st stitch of the other (the two selvages together); turn, knit 1^st row of scallop, turn, knit back to the top as usual, knitting last stitch with next stitch of the back.  Continue in this way until 24 stitches (the insertion) are joined, leaving the 20 stitches of the scallop still on the needle.

Now proceed with the overarm strip, which has the scallop on each edge.  Knit across the edge which you have just joined to the roseleaf insertion, then continue with the scallop exactly as you knitted it when making the back of the yoke.  Knit until you have seven scallops (on each edge) for the shoulder, then divide, having 20 stitches on each needle.  Leave the upper edge, and knit four scallops on the underarm, joining to the beginning of the underarm strip by knitting together.

Now take the upper or shoulder needle, with the remaining 20 stitches, and pick up 24 stitches along the selvage of the four scallops last knitted, 1 stitch from every other row, and making the original 44 stitches.  Continue with the front, making it the same as the back, and proceed with the other arm exactly as directed for the first, joining the ends by knitting together loosely enough not to draw the work.

Finish by running ribbon through the beading spaces, front and back, and around the arms.  Strengthen the plain space between the beading over the shoulder, by neatly applying narrow tape on the under side.

The lace in itself is very pretty; and the edging with the beading may be applies without the insertion to the neck and sleeves of a corset-cover or combination garment.

 

For the Little Folks

1912, November, page 18

Child’s Knitted Sock, Rose-Leaf Design

By Mrs. Lee Hibler

Use knitting-silk and steel needles No. 19.  Cast 36 stitches on each of two needles, and 38 stitches on the other.

1.  Knit plain

2. Knit 6, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2; repeat.

3.  Knit 4, narrow, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2; repeat.

4.  Knit 3, narrow, purl 2, (knit 1, over) twice, knit 1, purl 2; repeat.

5.  Knit 2, narrow, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2; repeat.

6.  Knit 1, narrow, purl 2, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2.

7.  Over, narrow, over, purl 2, knit 5, narrow, purl 2; repeat.

8.  Knit 3, purl 2, knit 4, narrow, purl 2; repeat.

9.  Knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, purl 2, knit 3, narrow, purl 2; repeat.

10.  Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, narrow, purl 2; repeat.

11.  Knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, narrow, purl 2, repeat.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, purl 2, over, narrow, over, purl 2; repeat.

Repeat from 3d row.

The little sock is knitted in exactly the same manner as a plain one, shaping the leg by narrowing at the back and preserving the regular pattern aside from that.  Carry the roseleaf-pattern down the instep, knitting the heel and foot plain, and narrowing off the toe as usual.  Directions have been given for this portion of the work so many times that it does not seem necessary to repeat them.

The roseleaf-design is very pretty for wristlets, and may be used to advantage in many ways.  If desired the socks may be knitted of Saxony; in silk, however, they are very dainty and warm.

Child’s Jacket in Crochet

By Mrs. A. Reeder

This is one of the prettiest little garments imaginable, and very easily made.  It requires two skeins of white and two skeins of colored – blue or pink – Shetland floss, a crochet-hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying it, and small enough to make smooth, even work, with two yards of inch-wide ribbon, matching the floss in color.

Commence with colored wool, making a chain of 85 stitches.

1.  Miss 3, a treble in each stitch of chain, turn.

2.  Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles taking up the back part of stitch to form a rib, widen in next stitch my making 2 trebles in same place, 49 trebles in 49 trebles, widen in next stitch as before, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, turn.

3.  Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between the widening trebles of last row, work across back with treble in treble, shell between 2 widening trebles, treble in treble across front, turn.

4.  Same as 3d row to shoulder, 2 trebles between 1^st 2 trebles of shell, shell under 2 chain, 2 trebles between next 2 trebles of shell, work across back, make shoulder like the first, work across front, turn.

5.  Same as 3d row to shoulder, 4 trebles between 1^st 2 trebles, shell between 1^st and 2d trebles of shell, shell between 3d and 4^th trebles of same shell, 4 trebles between 2 trebles, work across back, make opposite shoulder as directed, work across front turn.

6.  Same as 3d; at shoulder make shell between 1^st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4^th, (shell in shell) twice, shell between 1^st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4^th, work across back, across shoulder as described, and across front, turn.

7.  Same as 3d row across front, (chain 1, shell in shell) 6 times, chain 1, continue with treble in treble across back, work across shoulder as directed, and make treble in treble across front; turn.

8, 9.  Same as 7^th row.

This completes the yoke.  The shells from a very pretty little puff or epaulette on top of sleeve.

10.  Fasten in the white wool, chain 3, make 16 trebles across front, chain 20, 49 trebles across back, chain 20, 16 trebles across front, turn.  (Note: original directions have “49 doubles across back, chain 20, 16 doubles across front”)

11.  Chain 3, shell between 2d and 3d trebles, same between 4^th and 5^th, 6^th and 7^th, and so on until you have made 7 shells, putting the last between 14^th and 15^th trebles, (miss 2 stitches of chain, shell in next) 6 times, miss 2, shell between 2d and 3d trebles of back, between 4^th and 5^th, and so on making 24 shells across back, 6 across chain and 7 across front, turn.

12.  Chain 3, make shell in each shell of last row, turn.

13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Same as 12^th row.  If the jacket is wanted longer, add extra rows of shells.

20.  Fasten color at end of foundation chain at neck, chain 2 for 1^st treble, a treble in same place, chain 2, a treble in same place (all at end of 1^st row of neck), miss 1 row, shell at end of next, continue working down front, making 5 shells across yoke, shell under each 3 chain to corner, make 2 shells in corner, shell to turn, shell in shell across bottom of jacket, 2 at corner, work up front as directed, ending with a shell at end of 1^st row, turn.

21.  Chain 3, shell in shell down front, at corners make also a shell between shells, and continue around.

22.  Same as 21^st row.  Work across the neck with a shell between each of the 3 shells of border, then a shell between each 3d and 4^th treble following, with 3 across border at end of row.

For the sleeve:  Fasten in the white wool, make shell in shell across shoulder and 6 shells along the chain under arm, 12 in all.  Make shell in shell until the sleeve is 9 rows in length; then join in color and make 3 rows of shells, which will give 12 rows altogether.

Run ribbon in and out the 1^st row of colored shells at the writs, and tie in a pretty bow.  Thread the ties for the neck in the 1^st row of trebles, over 2 and under 2, and draw up.

Although the stitch in which this warm and comfortable little garment is made is not new, the arrangement is both novel and simple.  No one can fail to be pleased with it.

Child’s Crocheted Shoes

By Mathilde Larkin

Materials required are one and one-half skeins of Germantown, a medium-sized bone hook, a few yards of crochet-silk, matching the yarn in color, a yard of inch-wide ribbon, same shade, eight half-inch brass rings, and a pair of slipper-soles, size 8  Shoes made by directions given should fit a child of three or four years, but may be readily enlarged; they are just the thing for a little invalid, or for a child who is convalescing from illness.

Make a chain of 10 stitches, turn.

1.  Miss 1 and make a double in each of 4 stitches, 3 in next, 1 in each of 4, turn.

2.  Chain 1, miss 1^st stitch, and make a double in each double, taking up the back loop, which forms a rib.

Continue in this way, widening every other row by making 3 doubles in the middle stitch of previous row, until you have completed eight ribs or sixteen rows.  This piece is for the instep, or vamp.

For the strip that extends around the heel chain 1, miss 1^st stitch, make 8 doubles in 8 doubles, turn, and continue working back and forth until you have made fifteen ribs, then crochet to the opposite side of vamp from which you started.

Turn wrong side out and set neatly to the sole.  Join the wool, if you have broken it off, where the instep meets the side, chain 4, * a treble in next rib, chain 1, repeat from * around and join to 3d of 4 chain, working across the top of instep by putting a treble in every other stitch.  This row forms spaces in which to run a cord, finished with balls or tassels.

After joining, chain 1, 1 double in each stitch around to the opposite side, not across the front; turn, chain 1, miss 1^st stitch, make a double in each double, working in back loop of stitch.  Continue in this way until you have five ribs, or have made the leg as deep as wanted.

For the upper edge, chain 3, miss 2, fasten in next stitch; repeat around the tope, turn, and under each loop of chain make 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double.  Fasten off the wool neatly.

Cover the rings with the crochet-silk in double stitch, and sew two to each side of the opening in front; take one half the ribbon, put the ends through the two lower rings, cross and bring the ends out through the upper rings and tie in a pretty bow.

The cord may be either twisted, or crocheted, as preferred.  Make the balls by winding the wool thirty times around a piece of cardboard an inch in width, or around two fingers; tie tightly in the middle, clip the ends, and trim them evenly, rolling the ball between your palms to make it round and fluffy.  Fasten to the end of cord with needle and thread, or – and this method makes it more secure – tie the end of cord in with the ball at the center.