Big Punched-Work Outfit

As a rule, I am not posting ads, but this one was too pretty not to post. 

Excellent Models for Useful Garments

1913 08 page 12

Ladies’ Combination

Corset-cover and short petticoat are combined in this design, No. 6310.  Both open in front, and are joined together at the waistline.  The corset-cover is plain, and will make no wrinkles to show through the outer garments.  The neck is low, and there are no sleeves of any kind.  The petticoat fits snugly at all points, and has just fulness enough at the lower edge for the comfort of the wearer.

These garments are now made things of beauty by a clever selection of materials.  Crepe de Chine in the lighter qualities is the favorite fabric, and after this a very fine and sheer batiste or handkerchief-cambric, with insertions of Valenciennes lace or of Cluny.  Colored ribbons are run through beadings, and the fashionable woman chooses these to match or at least to harmonize with the tones of her outer costume.

The pattern, No. 6310, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the combination in the medium size will require 1 5/8 yards of 45-inch material, 3 7/8 yards of insertion, 3 1/2 yards of beading, 4 7/8 yards of ribbon, 2 yards of wide edging, and 5 1/4 yards of narrow edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Work-Apron and Cap

The woman who wears this costume, No. 6300, when working, will certainly look as charming as in any other style.  The apron has a plain blouse, slightly full at the waistline.  The closing is in the back.  The neck is cut out in a small round outline, and the sleeves have a suspicion of fulness at the shoulder where they are inserted.  They end just below the elbow.  The skirt-portion of the apron has a wee bit of fulness at the belt, and is attached to the blouse beneath a belt.  There are two patch-pockets on the sides of the front.

This apron may be worn over the dress, or it may replace it, as it resembles a dress as much as it does any apron.  The most appropriate materials are gingham, cambric, calico, and the like, and colored wash-braids may be used as trimming, binding all free edges, and forming the belt.

The apron-pattern, No. 6300, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 4 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Maternity-Gown

This gown, No. 6289, offers great comfort to the prospective mother, and at the same time will preserve her appearance to the last.  It is made with a body lining, which should be of something good and heavy, such, for instance as unbleached muslin, or sateen.  The fronts and the darts must be boned and then the edges can be laced, instead of being stitched together, and eased as desired from time to time.

The outer portion of the garment is very pretty, with a shaped Empire yoke, cut down low in front and finished with an ornamental collar.  The lower portion of the gown is arranged in two box plaits in front, and these have plenty of give to them, and can be readjusted as needed.  In the back there is an underturned box plait; and this, also, is large enough to give plenty of plan in the material.

These gowns can be made of all wash-materials, and cotton crepe is among the best.  Figured sateen is also good, and of course the figured and plain Japanese silks and satins, and the various soft crepe fabrics are also desirable.

The gown-pattern, No. 6289, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 6 3/8 yards of 36-nch material, 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch trimming for collar and sleeves, and 1 1/8 yards of 36-inch lining.  Width of lower edge, 3 1/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

The Newest Styles in Ladies’ Costumes

1903 08 09

 

Ladies’ Toilette

By combining two designs in this costume, No. 6308 and No. 6309, we have a result which is extremely pleasing.  The blouse is one of the soft, draped models.  The shoulder-seams come very far forward, and the fronts of the blouse are gathered along this line, or they may be plaited, if preferred.  This gives a little fulness to the waist.  In closing one side is drawn over the other iin surplice-style, and the edges are trimmed with a wide frill.  There is a large collar at the neck, and this is round in shape in the back, ending just below the shoulder-seam in front. 

The new large armhole is used, and the sleeve is adjusted to this without any fulness at the shoulder.  The three-quarter-length sleeve is generally used, but the pattern also provides a full-length sleeve, which is gathered into a deep cuff at the wrist.

The skirt of this costume has three gores.  It is closed at the left side of the front, where a bit of graceful drapery is arranged at about knee-depth, and is held in place by a strap.

The material selected for this dress should be soft.  Ratine, which is to be had in many different weights and thicknesses is appropriate, and all the cotton crepe and cotton voile weaves, as well as the handsomer crepe de Chine and brocaded silk.

The waist-pattern, No. 6308, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/2 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6309, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Width of lower edge is 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

This is one of the loveliest of the one-piece dresses, No. 6312.  It is simplicity itself, consisting of a plain blouse, cut out in a deep U, and displaying the front of a quimpe, which is separate from the dress, and which can be faced in any manner preferred.  The back and sides of the neck-opening are trimmed with one of the smaller square collars, so much affected by well dressed women, and cuffs to correspond finish the three-quarter-length sleeves.  The front closing of the blouse laps over at the left side, and is held in place by two large buttons.

The skirt of this costume has three gores.  It may have either high or regulation waist-line, and is attached to the blouse.  It opens at one side of the front, and a small section is cut away at the lower edge of the overlapping gore.

Brocaded eponge is one of the best liked fabrics for these one-piece dresses, and simple ratine, figured cotton voile, sheer and transparent, and also cotton crepe, as well as brocaded messaline, plain satin and figured crepe de Chine.

The dress-pattern, No. 6312, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 3 3/4 yards of 44-inch material for the dress, and 3/4 yards of 36-inch lining lawn, and 1/2 and of 22-inch net for the guimpe.  Width of lower edge, 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Ladies’ Costume

One of the late-summer favorites, the cutaway coat, forms the bodice of this attractive costume, No. 6299.  The coat-blouse has a small vest in the front, and a handsome collar at the low neck.  The sleeves are set into large armholes, and the peplum-sections are cut separately from the upper portion of the coat.

The two-piece skirt which is worn with this blouse fits snugly to the figure, and is attached to the blouse at the waistline, or made separately, as preferred.

No style is more popular at the present than the coat-blouse in this form, and it is usually made of a color with a white skirt, or of a plain material, with a figured skirt.  Of course it may well be made all of one material, and will be very handsome.

The combinations of ratine, eponge, linen, cotton crepe, cotton voile, bengaline and corduroy of the washable kind, will all be suitable and handsome.

The pattern, No. 6299. Is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the costume in the medium size will require 1 3/4 yards of plain material and 3 1/4 yards of figured material, both 36-inches wide.  Width of lower edge 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

A Shirtwaist Suit

The shirtwaist still holds its own, and this season has brought us many models prettier than ever before.  For comfort there are few styles better than the shirtwaist, and it is also very economical.

In this combination, No. 6396, and No. 6297, we have a plain blouse waist, with a low shoulder and an inset sleeve, this extending to the writs, where it is gathered into a cuff.  The neck of this waist is cut out quite far and the edges trimmed with a pretty notched collar.  The waist closes in duchesse style in the center of the front.

With this waist is worn a three-gore skirt.  This may have either the high or the regulation waistline.  It has a flat panel in the back, and in front there is a graceful drapery from the knee down on one side, over a small gore placed underneath to fill the opening.

In a shirtwaist costume the economical woman will use woolen goods for the skirt, and some of the lightweight tailor mixtures in the new shades of brown or Paquin green will be very effective, while the blouse may be of white linen or batiste, or of colored ratine, voile and the like.

The shirtwaist-pattern, No. 6396, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/4 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6397, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 2 7/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Width of lower edge, 1 3/4 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

 

Three Summer Dresses and a Useful Wrap

1913 08 page 8

 

Ladies’ Cape

The cape of to-day is a utility garment, and must be made with an end to real protection.  The model herewith illustrated, No. 6313, is of soft camel’s hair, with a hood-collar of the skirt-material.  The length of the cape may be arranged to suit the wearer, but for a really useful garment the long cape is of course best.  The collar extends in the back I hood form, and this will be found handy in wet weather to slip over the head when driving, or walking short distances.  This cape can also be used for evening wear, and in that case some such material as charmeuse, crepe de Chine, bengaline, moire and the like will be most appropriate.   It is now customary to line these heavier materials with plain and figures chiffon for evening use.

The cape-pattern, No. 6313, is cut in sizes small, medium and large, or 34, 38 and 42 inches bust measure.  To make the cape in the medium size will require fur full length, with hood, 5 3/8 yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

In this design, No. 6319, we have a fresh variation of the popular coat-blouse style.  The garment is made practically plain at the upper part, with drop-shoulder, long sleeve and a peplum in cut-away shape.  The neck is provided with several styles of finish.  It may be high, with a standing collar, round as shown or without the chemisette at all, leaving a great deal more of the neck exposed to view.  The peplum also may be short, as in the illustration, or much longer, coming almost to the knees.  The pattern provides all these different changes.

A two-piece skirt completes this costume, and the model is made with a few gathers in the back, in the newer mode and with the closing in the center of the front.

No better style than this could be found for colored linen, which can be scalloped by hand in white.  It is also an ideal design for ratine, and either one or two colors may be used.  For silk and crepe fabrics the style is excellent and it will also be satisfactory for the more simple ginghams that are within reach of every purse.

The dress-pattern, No. 6319, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 5 7/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Width of lower edge is 1 ¾ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Ladies’ Dress

Something distinctly out of the common is shown in this flounce dress, No. 6302 and No. 6303.  The blouse is a shirtwaist of the simplest character.  It has the long sleeve and the body in one, and it may also be made with the drop-shoulder and a three-quarter sleeve as the pattern provides for these changes.  The neck is finished with a pretty flat collar of moderate size.

The skirt of this costume touches an entirely novel note.  The seeming flounces are in reality tucks, and the skirt is a one-piece design.  It has either plaits or gathers at the top, and may be made with either the high or the regulation waistline.

Such a costume as this made of figured cotton voile would be at once dainty and cool and stylish.  If heavier fabrics are used the tucks can be hemstitched by machine.  It is quite a fad at present to use thin materials for these skirts and then to run ribbon through the tucks.

The waist-pattern, No. 6302, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 1 5/8 yards of 44- or 54-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 6303, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 3/8 yards of 36- or 44-inch material.  Width of lower edge, 1 ¾ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

A Shirtwaist-Suit

This natty costume, No. 6291 and No. 6292, is just the thing for morning wear, whether for shopping or for informal calls.  The waist shows a model with a long shoulder-yoke and the drop-shoulder, carried unusually far down on the arm.  The sleeve is plain and is finished at the wrists in the approved shirt fashion.  At the neck the waist is quite open and is trimmed with a handsome collar, ending just in front of the shoulder-yoke, where a tie comes from under the edges and passes through a strap in the front.  The closing is in the center of the front of the waist. 

With this simple waist is worn a skirt which has a suggestion of drapery in the new manner.  The model may be made with either two or three gores, according as a seam is placed in the center of the back or not.  This arrangement allows the use of either wide or narrow materials.  At about knee-depth the front gores are extended in square tabs and a bit of the cloth of the back gore is caught in to give the draped suggestion.

Waist and skirt may be made of one material, or two may be selected.  This is entirely a matter of preference, and if wash-fabrics are used for the waist, plain Japanese silk should not be overlooked, as it is very fashionable and very comfortable

The waist-pattern, No. 6291, is cut in sizes from 34 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 2 1/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 

The skirt-pattern, No. 6292, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 1/2 yards of 27-inch material for the two-piece skirt, or 4 yards the same width for the three-piece arrangement.  Width of lower edge, 1 5/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Two Pretty Yokes in Knitting

1912, November, page 22

Square Yoke for Corset-Cover or Chemise

By Clara M. Folsom

Cast on 50 stitches; knit across plain.

1.  Slip 1, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 8, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, *over, narrow, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

2.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

3.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, *knit 1, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

4.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 5, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, *(knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.  By binding off the 3 stitches in one row and replacing them by putting thread over 3 times in the next, the beading in which to run ribbon is formed.

5.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, *knit 2, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

6.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13, over, narrow, *knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 8.

7.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

8.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, (knit 3, purl 1) twice, knit 14, over, narrow, knit 8.

9.  Like 3d row to *; knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

10.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 5, purl 1, knit 16, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

11.  Like 5^th  to *; knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 11, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

12.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 9, *over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 8.

13.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 10, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

14.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th row from *.

15.  like 3d to *; knit 7, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

16.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 7, *over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

17.  Like 4^th to *; knit 8, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

18.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th row from *.

19.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 9, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 19.

20.  Bind off 4, knit 15; like 12^th from *.

21.  Like 3d to *; knit 10, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over twice, narrow, knit 5.

22.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 3; like 16^th row from *.

23.  Like 5^th to *; knit 11, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

24.  Knit 6, purl 1, knit 11; like 12^th from *.

25.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 4, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 12, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

26.  Like 6^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

27.  Like 3d to *; knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 3, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 8, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

28.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 10, over 3 times, knit 3, over narrow, knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

29.  Like 5^th to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 6, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 14.

30.  Bind off 4, knit 15, over, narrow, knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 8.

31. Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 2, (narrow, over twice, narrow) twice, knit 5, (over, narrow) 3 times, knit 1; like 1^st row from *.

32.  Like 2d to *; knit 13, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 8.

33.  Like 3d to *; knit 4, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 8, (over, narrow) 4 times, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 4, over twice, narrow, knit 4.

34.  Like 4^th to *; knit 15, purl 1, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

35.  Slip 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 3, purl 1, knit 8, over twice, narrow, knit 3.

36.  Knit 5, purl 1, knit 13; like 12^th row from *.

37.  Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 14, over 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 1.

38.  Knit 3, purl 1, knit 16; like 12^th from *.

39.  Slip 1, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, bind off 3, knit 13.

40.  Bind off 4, knit 9, over 3 times, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 22, over, narrow, knit 2, over 3 times, knit 3.

Make the pattern three times for one front, bind off 35 stitches, continue the scallop with the holes for beading on the remaining stitches until you have fourteen scallops for one shoulder, then cast on 35 stitches and knit the pattern six times for the back.  Make the other shoulder and front in the same way.  Make seventeen inches the same as shoulder for inside of arm.  Run three-eighths-inch ribbon in the holes and tie on shoulders and in front.

No. 38 lace thread was sued for this yoke, which is large enough for thirty-two or thirty-four-inch bust measure; it may be easily increased in size, however, by knitting an extra pattern, and adding to the length of shoulder.

In crochet cord or knitting-cotton the insertion without the scallops, also omitting the purling, if preferred, makes a very pretty stripe for a bedspread.  With the edge of scallops, omitting the purling – which any knitter can readily do after having knitted the pattern as described – one has a very attractive lace while the scallop itself makes a neat, pretty edging for under-garments and any small article.

Yoke for Knitted Undervest

By Mrs. Lura Fletcher

Using No. 17 or No. 18 needles (finer, if preferred) and No. 60 crochet-cotton, cast on 44 stitches and knit across once plain.

1.  Knit 5 (the 1^st stitch of each row at this edge may be slipped), over 3 times, slip 2d, 3e and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st stitch, knit that stitch and 2 more, *over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, *knit 3, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st,knit 5, over, knit 1, (over, knit 3 together) twice.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in loop, knit 3, *purl 3, knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 7, knit 1, purl 3, *knit 3; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, over, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, narrow, purl 1, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 9, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 18, purl 3, knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1) twice, purl 3, knit 11.

5.  Knit 11, over, knit 1; over, narrow, (purl 1, narrow) 3 times, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 19, purl 4, (knit 1, purl 1) twice, knit 1, purl 4, knit 11.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 3, over, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 7, narrow, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 12, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, knit 11.

9.  Knit 11, over, knit 5, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 19, purl 15, knit 11.

11.  Repeat from * to * in 1^st row, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 11, repeat * to * in 2d row, knit 11.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are fifteen scallops for the back.  Break off the thread, leaving at least eight inches, and lay aside with the stitches still on the needle.

For the underarm piece take another needle, cast on 2- stitches and knit across plain.

1.  Knit 5, over 3 times, slip 2d, 3d and 4^th stitches on left-hand needle over the 1^st, knit 5, over, knit 1, over, knit 3 together.

2.  Knit 11; knit 1, purl 1 and knit 1 in loop, knit 5.

3.  Knit 11, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

4.  Knit 20.

5.  Knit 10, narrow, over, knit 5, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

6.  Knit 21.

7.  Knit 11, over, knit 2, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, knit 1.

8.  Knit 7, purl 1, knit 15.

9.  Knit 12, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

10.  Knit 22.

11.  Knit 13, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, (over, narrow) twice.

12.  Knit 5, narrow, knit 14.

Repeat from 1^st row until there are nine scallops for the underarm; then, as you knit to the top or selvage edge, take the strip you have completed for the back and knit the last stitch on your needle with the 1^st stitch of the other (the two selvages together); turn, knit 1^st row of scallop, turn, knit back to the top as usual, knitting last stitch with next stitch of the back.  Continue in this way until 24 stitches (the insertion) are joined, leaving the 20 stitches of the scallop still on the needle.

Now proceed with the overarm strip, which has the scallop on each edge.  Knit across the edge which you have just joined to the roseleaf insertion, then continue with the scallop exactly as you knitted it when making the back of the yoke.  Knit until you have seven scallops (on each edge) for the shoulder, then divide, having 20 stitches on each needle.  Leave the upper edge, and knit four scallops on the underarm, joining to the beginning of the underarm strip by knitting together.

Now take the upper or shoulder needle, with the remaining 20 stitches, and pick up 24 stitches along the selvage of the four scallops last knitted, 1 stitch from every other row, and making the original 44 stitches.  Continue with the front, making it the same as the back, and proceed with the other arm exactly as directed for the first, joining the ends by knitting together loosely enough not to draw the work.

Finish by running ribbon through the beading spaces, front and back, and around the arms.  Strengthen the plain space between the beading over the shoulder, by neatly applying narrow tape on the under side.

The lace in itself is very pretty; and the edging with the beading may be applies without the insertion to the neck and sleeves of a corset-cover or combination garment.

 

Practical Garments

1912, November, page 21

Ladies’ House-Dress

Design No. 4650 shows a clever model for a house-dress, and one that any woman with knowledge of needlework can carry out in a short time, and at small expense.

The dress closes at the left side of the front, and can be made with bishop or let-o’-mutton sleeves.  The joined-on skirt is cut in seven gores.

Shoulder-plaits front and back produce becoming lines, and the neck is finished with a pretty rolling collar.  The long sleeves have band cuffs.  The collar is trimmed with bands of contrasting material, which also adorns the belt and forms the cuffs.  The collar is trimmed with bands of contrasting material, which also adorns the belt and forms the cuffs.

Challis, serge, mohair, percale, chambray, or gingham offers suitable suggestions for development.  The dress shown in the drawing was carried out in blue dotted challis, with plain blue band trimming, and fastened with large pearl buttons.

Pattern No. 4650 is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 8 yards of 27-inch material, or 5 5/8 yards of good 36 inches wide.  Width of lower edge is 3 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 

Ladies’ and Misses’ Yoke Nightgown

Model No. 5585 presents a practical and easily made nightgown that every woman who knows the value of homemade underwear will appreciate.

The gown is made roomy and comfortable, yet is very dainty-looking, and quite unlike the cumbersome affairs of several years ago.

It has the body of the garment gathered on to a yoke back and front.  The neck is finished with a turndown collar, trimmed with edging, and the full sleeves have band cuffs likewise edging-trimmed.

Cambric, longcloth, nainsook, muslin or lawn will develop the model nicely.

Pattern No. 5585 is cut in sizes from 30 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the gown in the medium size will require 6 ¾ yards of 27-inch material, or 5 yards of goods 36 inches wide, with 3 ¾ yards of edging.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The Season’s Cleverest Modes

1912, November, page 17

Clever Fall Costume

Features of the new fall costumes prominently shown in the clever costume given in design No. 5965 include the vest and charming front plaits on the skirt.

These are details that at once mark the garment as distinctly new, and smart, and up to the minute in style.  The dress shows the fashionable front closing, and may be made with regular or Empire waistline.

The Empire effect continues very popular, as it is a style becoming to most women.  However, there are some to whom this type does not appeal, and such may use the regular waistline, without in any way impairing the good lines and beauty of the frock

This dress may be worn at the present time without a coat, and later in the winter will give good service under the long cloth or fur wrap.  It may be fashioned of serge, whipcord, cheviot, diagonals, checks and plaids.  The contrasting goods is of satin or moire, and sometimes soft silk velvet is used with delightful result.

The chemisette, which is removable, is made of allover.  The stylish skirt is a six-gored model.  The dress, while of fine appearance, and full of fashion-features, is not in the least difficult to construct.  Instead, its construction is well within the range of the home dressmaker’s skill

The pattern, No. 5965, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 8 ½ yards of 27-inch material, 6 yards of 36-inch goods, or 5 yards of 44-inch fabric, with ½ yard of 24-inch satin or other contrasting goods, and 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Handsome Coat

The coats for the coming winter promise to be more elaborate than ever before.  Much lace and other rich trimming is to be used, and there is a great vogue of fur. The handsome coat shown in model No 5961 is fashioned of navy-blue velvet, with the large fancy collar of heavy lace over navy-blue satin, and the edging of white fur.

The wide cuffs correspond, and the sole ornamentation aside from the above-mentioned embellishment, is a jet-and-braid ornament with which the garment is fastened.

This coat is very simple to make.  The lines are excellent, and the gracefulness and charming character of it cannot fail to appeal to the woman of discernment and good taste in costuming.

If a velvet coat may be thought too elaborate, the model may be delightfully carried out in satin, silk, or any of the new and attractive cloths which are to be had for this purpose.  The collar and cuffs may be of any desired contrasting material, and if fur is not desired, rich silk or beaded braiding is a splendid substitution.

The pattern, No. 5961, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 8 ¾ yards of 27-inch material, or 7 ½ yards of 36-inch material, with 1 1/8 yards of 22-inch allover, and 3 ½ yards of fur.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Stylish Types of New Gowns

1912, November, Page 16

Ladies’ Dress

The delightful frock shown in model No. 5975 is one of the newest styles of the fall and winter season.

This garment may be developed for dressy wear, or for general service, depending upon the manner of its treatment.  It is made in Empire style, but the regulation waistline may be used if preferred.

The pattern provides for plain or full sleeves, and the four-gored skirt may be finished in short sweep, or round length.The round neck is collarless, and the insert of contrasting material at the front of the garment from neck to skirt-hem in a novel and quite pretty idea.

The frock presented was charmingly developed in fawn-colored cashmere, with white front-piece.  The belt is of coffee-brown satin, and narrow velvet ribbon of the same shade trims the garment.  Brown bone buttons are used to fasten the frock at the front.  The sleeves have band cuffs trimmed with velvet ribbon, and finished with a frill of ecru edging.

This garment may be carried out in blue serge, plaid or checked material, or changeable taffeta.  Indeed, the model offers a wide choice in the selection of a suitable material for development.

The pattern, No. 5975, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  Size 36 will require 8 yards of 27-inch material, 5 7/8 yards of 36-inch fabric, or 5 ¼ yards of goods 44 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Pretty Striped Frock

Dresses of striped material are quite the fad this season, and many clever garments are noted developed in striped serge, mohair, voile and silk.

Most of these striped dresses are made very simply, as any attempt at trimming such a garment at once detracts from its elegance.  Often the only embellishment is the collar and cuffs of contrasting material, and sometimes an adornment of fancy buttons.

This idea is delightfully illustrated in design No, 5967.

Here we have a pretty frock developed in brown-and-white silk, with the attractive new-style collar, and the chic turned-back cuffs of white silk, though brown may be used for this purpose if desired.

The dress is made in the pretty Empire fashion, and has the closing at the left side of the front.  Brown buttons are used to trim the frock, the fastening being accomplished with hooks and eyes underneath.

The new-style skirt is seen, and the entire appearance of the garment is fashionable, and in the very best taste.

Blue-and-white silk, black-and-white serge or voile, and any of the new striped serges and other woolen materials may be used.

The pattern, No, 5967, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the frock in the medium size will require 6 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, with ½ yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  Width of lower edge is 2 ½ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

For Grown-up Girls and Little Ones

November, 1912,page 9

By Mrs. S. J. Baldwine

Every little maid’s outfit should include at least two of the washable hats of white pique, with button-on crown which can be quickly and easily removed when laundering is needed.  If nicely made, even with simplest embroidery, these hats are quite pretty enough to be worn on special occasions, and are certainly just the thing for every day, because the small wearer does not need the caution, so often repeated” “Be careful of your hat, dear!”  She knows and mamma knows that however mussed or soiled it may become, a tubbing will make everything right again, and every bit as good as new.

The hat may be entirely of white, with white lining, or it may have a lining of light pink, blue, or any delicate color – which must be, of course of washable material – with embroidery of the same tint.  The lining is put in after the embroidery is done, and may be omitted, if preferred, since its real use is to conceal the under side of the brim.  By taking a little care the embroidery may be made to look almost as well on the wrong side as on the right, and while there is a decided difference in the two sides of the fabric, the smooth or plain side is not objectionable.

Solid embroidery is preferred to eyelet, especially if the hat is not to be lined; the designs illustrated are adapted to either style of work, however.  If carried out in satin-stitch, as is the model, the padding should be heavy; and if eyelet-embroidery is used care should be taken to keep the lines perfectly true and even, and the eyelets, which are intended to be of the same size, quite uniform.  Any deviation from this rule will be unpleasantly apparent.

Work the buttonholes as indicated, after completing the embroidery and buttonholing of edges on both brim and crown, and sew twelve pearl buttons of suitable size at corresponding intervals on the brim.  The hat may be readily adapted to a larger or smaller head-size when cutting the opening of the brim, which should be neatly hemmed or bound with bias tape.

These dainty bits of headgear are always fashionable, the style changing little or not at all from season to season; and the wise mother of small children who contemplates spending a few weeks or months of the winter in Florida, or other “summer-the-year-around” resort, is sure to have a supply of “button-on” hats ready for the little folks to wear.

While exquisite neatness of work is always a prime essential in needlecraft, it seems particularly so in the fashioning of garments for little folks.  Because the embroidery is simple, it should be all the more nicely executed, the lace edgings should be fine and dainty, and the material light and sheer.  French nainsook is frequently chosen, as is lawn of fine quality, while mercerized batiste finds especial favor for “baby’s best dress,” or even for the little gowns intended for more common wear, being very soft and lustrous.

A pretty panel in eyelet-embroidery forms the decoration of the wee dress pictured; if desired, the work may be continued to the hem, but is very dainty and sufficiently elaborate as it is.  The little sleeves are edged at the wrist with Valenciennes, as is the neck, and every bit of the sewing is done by hand, with fine thread and finest of stitches.  Take care always that there are no seams which will chafe a baby’s tender skin; very often the sleeves are buttonholed in place, thus avoiding any seam whatever around the little arms, save the very narrow and soft one produced by the buttonholing.

The kimono or “slip-on” nightdress, cut in one piece and with side seams only, is still the popular style.  If a higher neck is wanted it may be filled in with fine insertion and lace, and drawn up with narrow ribbons, the sleeves being edged to correspond.

A very attractive though simple design for embroidering such a garment is shown.  The lines are worked in stem-stitch; first padded by running with short stitches, which are then whipped with padding-cotton; then with the embroidery-cotton work over and over the padded line, taking up very little of the material beneath so that when the work is completed the effect is that of a small, smooth cord laid upon the goods and following the outline.  The remainder of the work is also in padded satin-stitch, save two of the little, four-petaled figures in each cluster; these are outlined with the stem-stitch described and filled in with seed-stitch, so much used in the real French embroidery.  This stitch is taken after the manner of the common back-stitch – a short stitch backward on the surface and a longer stitch forward underneath; if a heavier “seed” is desired, take two stitches side by side, the needle emerging and entering almost at the same place in both stitches.  All the four-petal forms may be worked in this way, if liked, the result being much more delicate in appearance.

The same design may be sued for a blouse – omitting the initial – or a corset-cover; hence the transfer- or perforated pattern will be found of advantage.

The girl or woman who feels the need of “just one more” new and attractive waist to tide over the days of late summer and early fall, its addition freshening an outfit which has begun to show a little wear and tear, will appreciated the simple but very pleasing design in solid, eyelet- and punched embroidery.  Explicit instructions for doing the latter have appeared; it consists merely in separating or drawing apart the threads of the material, using a very large needle, and binding them securely; in other words, a tiny square of the material, say four or six threads, is surrounded by stitches, two in a place, forming an opening on each side.  The work is easily done, even though not stamped expressly for the purpose; if, however, the dots are stamped, it is a great help.

The embroidered band at the top of each sleeve matches that of the waist, and may be applied to a collar, if desired.  On the model a Cluny insertion, matching the lace which edges the sleeves, is used for collarband, with pretty effect.

From present indications the present style of blouses, so becoming and comfortable, will see no radical change, and on this fact womankind is to be congratulated.  There are ultra styles which do not appeal to the woman of good sense, and she does not adopt them; but when a garment has proven itself to be just what she wants and needs, she is in no haste to let it go by.

No. 159 C.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on pique, 25 cents.

No. 160 D.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on nainsook, 60 cents.

No. 161 D.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on English longcloth, $1.00.

No. 162 D.  Perforated stamping-pattern, 25 cents.  Transfer-pattern, 10 cents.  Stamped on punch-linen, $1.00.

 

 

 

Trio of Fascinating Costumes

November, 1912, Page 3

Handsome Charmeuse Frock

From authoritative fashion sources we have the information that nothing for dressy wear during the coming winter will take the place of the charmeuse frock.  This material is so soft and clinging and shimmering that it fulfils every requirement as a fashionable fabric when the new-style garments are considered.  Nothing drapes so readily; no material lends itself so admirably to so many purposes. 

Another good point in its favor is the fact that it is serviceable, and the charmeuse gown may be used for every occasion from the most elaborate function to the informal street or house wear.
Model No. 5959, and No. 5963, represents a handsome costume carried out effectively in pearl-gray charmeuse with white lace trimming.  Gray is one of the fashionable colors this season – in face, is one of the most fashionable, and the pretty frock shown will serve admirably for an afternoon or evening gown, or for the going-away dress of a bride.

There is a certain clever style about the costume which marks it as new and out of the ordinary.  The waist has the lace draped in becoming fashion, while the collar and yoke of insertion and net is quite chic.

The new double frill is noted on the sleeves.  In this costume the normal waist-line is defined with a belt of steel-gray velvet.  This may be finished with a buckle of oxidized silver studded with emeralds, the light green contrasting beautifully with the demureness of the gray.

Perhaps the most characteristic touch is the draped skirt, in new panier fashion which represents the latest word in smart costuming.  The waist-pattern, No. 5959, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 5/8 of a yard of 36-inch chiffon, 2 yards of 36-inch material, 5/8 of a yard of 22-inch allover, and 2 ¾ yards of banding.  If made of one material, 2 ¾ yards of 36-inch material is needed, with ¾ of a yard of 36-inch goods for the guimpe.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 5963, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 3/8 yards of 53-inch material.  To make the skirt without the drapery, 2 5/8 yards of 54-inch material is needed.  Width of lower edge is 2 3/8 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 
 

Elegant for Street Wear

Design No. 5987, and No. 5981, shows a splendid model for an up-to-date street frock.
This costume may be carried out effectively in dark-green cloth, or in any of the new shades of brown.  It is a simple frock though a decidedly stylish one, and its construction offers no difficulty to the home-dressmaker.

The waist has the body and upper port of the sleeves cut in one, thus giving the drooping shoulder approved by fashion.  The yoke is rather deep, and is of clever cut.  It is outlined with a banding of velvet of a little deeper shade than the gown.  The yoke and collar are of allover.  The long sleeves have the latest-style cuffs, showing the double frill.  The cuff itself is of allover, matching the yoke, and the frill is of wide edging.  The waist closes at the back.

The skirt is a three-gored model, with double flounce, and it may be made with high or regulation waistline.  The drawing shows the regular waistline which is defined with a belt of velvet corresponding with that outlining the yoke.  The waist-pattern, No. 5987, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 1 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, or 1 5/8 yards of goods 44 inches wide, with ½ yard of 22-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

The skirt-pattern, No. 5981, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 3/8 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 7/8 yards of goods 44 inches wide.  Width of lower edge is 2 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 

Stylish Garment

Many clever style features are given in the attractive garment shown in design No. 5969, and No. 5985.  Here we have a serviceable street frock, quite easy to fashion, yet representing the very best style.

The waist has the attractive Robespierre collar, and is further enhanced with a small vest which many of the smartest models for the present-season’s wear are showing.  The long sleeves have plain deep cuffs.

The skirt is made with Empire waistline, and has the new-style, cleverly cut closing-line.  It is perfect-fitting over the hips, hangs gracefully, and has the necessary fullness and convenient width which the new skirt models call for.  It is effectively trimmed with a group of large buttons.

This costume may be delightfully developed in white serge or whipcord, both very fashionable for the coming winter.  The bit of trimming on the waist is of black satin, and the buttons on the skirt are either satin-covered or black bone.  Quite a striking costume results.

Other appropriated materials include striped serge, checked material, plain cloth, cashmere and Scotch mixture.
    
The waist-pattern, No. 5969, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 27-inch material, with 5/8 of a yard of 27-inch contrasting goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
    
The skirt-pattern, No. 5985, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 yards of 44-inch material.  Width of lower edge is 2 yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

Showing the Latest Style Touches

1912, November, page 2
 
Ladies’ Shirtwaist Costume

     Model No. 5979 and No. 5971 shows a splendid costume in the nature of a shirtwaist dress, which is just the thing for general wear.
     The waist may be made with tucks or gathers at front, and choice of two styles of collar is given.  The long sleeves have a chic cuff.  The waist fastens invisibly under the center box plait.
     The skirt is a one-piece plaited model, with straight lower edge.  It may be fashioned with Empire or regulation waistline, and with or without yokes.
     The clever style of this costume will appeal to the woman of good taste, and the ease with which it may be constructed will be another point in the garment’s favor.
      Serge is a practical material for development, though mohair and taffeta will serve very nicely in carrying out the model.
      The waist-pattern, No. 5979, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 3 ½ yards of 27-inch material, 2 ½ yards of goods 36 inches wide, or 1 7/8 yards of 44-inch fabric.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The skirt-pattern, No. 5971, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require, with yokes, 4 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, 3 7/8 yards of 44-inch fabric, or 3 ½ yards of goods 54 inches wide, and without yokes, 5 ¼ yards of 36-inch material, 4 ½ yards of 44-inch fabric, or 4 yards of 54-inch goods.  Width of lower edge is 3 ½ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents. 

Stylish Coat-Suit

     The coats of the present season are distinctly different from those of last year.  Many details mark the new coats as original and smart, and the woman who wishes to keep dressed up to the standard of the very best fashion, will study these details before deciding upon her coat-suit for the fall and winter.
     Model No. 5611, and No. 5601, gives a design that fulfils all style requirements.
     The coat is made in the newest fashion.  It is 28 inches long; and its chief feature is the sectional collar, which is formed of two materials, adding much to the garment’s clever appearance.
     The skirt is cut in eight gores, and has the closing at the left side of the back.
     Blue-and-white rough-surfaced woolen was selected for the development of this chic model.  The collar is of white rough-surfaced cloth and blue panne velvet.  The cuffs are similarly treated.  The coat fastens with four dark-blue bone buttons.
     The coat-pattern, No. 5611, is cut in sizes from 32 t0 42 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 3 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, 2 3/4 yards of 44-inch fabric, or 2 ¼ yards of goods 54 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The skirt-pattern, No, 5601, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 5 yards of 36-inch material or 3 5/6 yards of goods 50 inches wide.  Width of lower edge is 3 ¼ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
 
A Clever Suit-Model

     The coat of the clever suit model offered in design No. 5509, and No. 5517 is 25 inches long, and is gored to the shoulders at front and back.  It has a fancy collar which is pointed at the back.
     The closing line is quite chic, and is one of the fashionable details of the garment.  The sleeves are finished with deep turned-back cuffs.
     The skirt is a five-gored model, made with flounce, and with the closing at the front.
     Any of the new and popular suiting-materials may be employed in carrying out the mode, with the collar and cuffs of satin, moire, or velvet.
    The coat-pattern, No. 5509, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the coat in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 ¾ yards of goods 50 inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

    The skirt-pattern, No. 5517, is cut in sizes from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 3 5/8 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 3/8 yards of 50-inch goods.  Width of lower edge is 2 ½ yards.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.