Child’s Knitted Sock, Rose-Leaf Design
By Mrs. Lee Hibler
Use knitting-silk and steel needles No. 19. Cast 36 stitches on each of two needles, and 38 stitches on the other.
1. Knit plain
2. Knit 6, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2; repeat.
3. Knit 4, narrow, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2; repeat.
4. Knit 3, narrow, purl 2, (knit 1, over) twice, knit 1, purl 2; repeat.
5. Knit 2, narrow, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2; repeat.
6. Knit 1, narrow, purl 2, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2.
7. Over, narrow, over, purl 2, knit 5, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
8. Knit 3, purl 2, knit 4, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
9. Knit 1, (over, knit 1) twice, purl 2, knit 3, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
10. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, narrow, purl 2; repeat.
11. Knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, narrow, purl 2, repeat.
12. Knit 5, narrow, purl 2, over, narrow, over, purl 2; repeat.Repeat from 3d row.
The little sock is knitted in exactly the same manner as a plain one, shaping the leg by narrowing at the back and preserving the regular pattern aside from that. Carry the roseleaf-pattern down the instep, knitting the heel and foot plain, and narrowing off the toe as usual. Directions have been given for this portion of the work so many times that it does not seem necessary to repeat them.
The roseleaf-design is very pretty for wristlets, and may be used to advantage in many ways. If desired the socks may be knitted of Saxony; in silk, however, they are very dainty and warm.
Child’s Jacket in Crochet
By Mrs. A. Reeder
This is one of the prettiest little garments imaginable, and very easily made. It requires two skeins of white and two skeins of colored – blue or pink – Shetland floss, a crochet-hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying it, and small enough to make smooth, even work, with two yards of inch-wide ribbon, matching the floss in color.
Commence with colored wool, making a chain of 85 stitches.
1. Miss 3, a treble in each stitch of chain, turn.
2. Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles taking up the back part of stitch to form a rib, widen in next stitch my making 2 trebles in same place, 49 trebles in 49 trebles, widen in next stitch as before, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, turn.
3. Chain 3, 16 trebles in 16 trebles, shell of 2 trebles, 2 chain and 2 trebles between the widening trebles of last row, work across back with treble in treble, shell between 2 widening trebles, treble in treble across front, turn.
4. Same as 3d row to shoulder, 2 trebles between 1st 2 trebles of shell, shell under 2 chain, 2 trebles between next 2 trebles of shell, work across back, make shoulder like the first, work across front, turn.
5. Same as 3d row to shoulder, 4 trebles between 1st 2 trebles, shell between 1st and 2d trebles of shell, shell between 3d and 4th trebles of same shell, 4 trebles between 2 trebles, work across back, make opposite shoulder as directed, work across front turn.
6. Same as 3d; at shoulder make shell between 1st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4th, (shell in shell) twice, shell between 1st and 2d of 4 trebles, shell between 3d and 4th, work across back, across shoulder as described, and across front, turn.
7. Same as 3d row across front, (chain 1, shell in shell) 6 times, chain 1, continue with treble in treble across back, work across shoulder as directed, and make treble in treble across front; turn.
8, 9. Same as 7th row.
This completes the yoke. The shells from a very pretty little puff or epaulette on top of sleeve.
10. Fasten in the white wool, chain 3, make 16 trebles across front, chain 20, 49 trebles across back, chain 20, 16 trebles across front, turn. (Note: original directions have “49 doubles across back, chain 20, 16 doubles across front”)
11. Chain 3, shell between 2d and 3d trebles, same between 4th and 5th, 6th and 7th, and so on until you have made 7 shells, putting the last between 14th and 15th trebles, (miss 2 stitches of chain, shell in next) 6 times, miss 2, shell between 2d and 3d trebles of back, between 4th and 5th, and so on making 24 shells across back, 6 across chain and 7 across front, turn.
12. Chain 3, make shell in each shell of last row, turn.
13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Same as 12th row. If the jacket is wanted longer, add extra rows of shells.
20. Fasten color at end of foundation chain at neck, chain 2 for 1st treble, a treble in same place, chain 2, a treble in same place (all at end of 1st row of neck), miss 1 row, shell at end of next, continue working down front, making 5 shells across yoke, shell under each 3 chain to corner, make 2 shells in corner, shell to turn, shell in shell across bottom of jacket, 2 at corner, work up front as directed, ending with a shell at end of 1st row, turn.
21. Chain 3, shell in shell down front, at corners make also a shell between shells, and continue around.
22. Same as 21st row. Work across the neck with a shell between each of the 3 shells of border, then a shell between each 3d and 4th treble following, with 3 across border at end of row.
For the sleeve: Fasten in the white wool, make shell in shell across shoulder and 6 shells along the chain under arm, 12 in all. Make shell in shell until the sleeve is 9 rows in length; then join in color and make 3 rows of shells, which will give 12 rows altogether.
Run ribbon in and out the 1st row of colored shells at the writs, and tie in a pretty bow. Thread the ties for the neck in the 1st row of trebles, over 2 and under 2, and draw up.
Although the stitch in which this warm and comfortable little garment is made is not new, the arrangement is both novel and simple. No one can fail to be pleased with it.
Child’s Crocheted Shoes
By Mathilde Larkin
Materials required are one and one-half skeins of Germantown, a medium-sized bone hook, a few yards of crochet-silk, matching the yarn in color, a yard of inch-wide ribbon, same shade, eight half-inch brass rings, and a pair of slipper-soles, size 8 Shoes made by directions given should fit a child of three or four years, but may be readily enlarged; they are just the thing for a little invalid, or for a child who is convalescing from illness.
Make a chain of 10 stitches, turn.
1. Miss 1 and make a double in each of 4 stitches, 3 in next, 1 in each of 4, turn.
2. Chain 1, miss 1st stitch, and make a double in each double, taking up the back loop, which forms a rib.
Continue in this way, widening every other row by making 3 doubles in the middle stitch of previous row, until you have completed eight ribs or sixteen rows. This piece is for the instep, or vamp.
For the strip that extends around the heel chain 1, miss 1st stitch, make 8 doubles in 8 doubles, turn, and continue working back and forth until you have made fifteen ribs, then crochet to the opposite side of vamp from which you started.
Turn wrong side out and set neatly to the sole. Join the wool, if you have broken it off, where the instep meets the side, chain 4, * a treble in next rib, chain 1, repeat from * around and join to 3d of 4 chain, working across the top of instep by putting a treble in every other stitch. This row forms spaces in which to run a cord, finished with balls or tassels.
After joining, chain 1, 1 double in each stitch around to the opposite side, not across the front; turn, chain 1, miss 1st stitch, make a double in each double, working in back loop of stitch. Continue in this way until you have five ribs, or have made the leg as deep as wanted.
For the upper edge, chain 3, miss 2, fasten in next stitch; repeat around the tope, turn, and under each loop of chain make 1 double, 3 trebles and 1 double. Fasten off the wool neatly.
Cover the rings with the crochet-silk in double stitch, and sew two to each side of the opening in front; take one half the ribbon, put the ends through the two lower rings, cross and bring the ends out through the upper rings and tie in a pretty bow.
The cord may be either twisted, or crocheted, as preferred. Make the balls by winding the wool thirty times around a piece of cardboard an inch in width, or around two fingers; tie tightly in the middle, clip the ends, and trim them evenly, rolling the ball between your palms to make it round and fluffy. Fasten to the end of cord with needle and thread, or – and this method makes it more secure – tie the end of cord in with the ball at the center.