November,
1912, Page 6
Pattern No. 5442 is a very practical coat for any
season of the year. It has a seam each
side of front and back, extending to the shoulder, the regulation two-piece
coat-sleeve, and a smart, long sailor-collar, seamed at the shoulder. For medium size, 3 7/8 yards of 36-inch, or 2
¾ yards of 50-inch material would be required.
Wool material should be sponged to prevent shrinking and spotting with
rain. Three-quarters of a yard of
24-inch satin will face the collar, as illustrated.
To cut, lay the back, neckband, and the back
section of the collar, with the edges having triple perforations along a lengthwise
fold of the goods, and arrange the remaining pieces with the line of three
small perforations to each exactly lengthwise of the goods. Be sure to cut all the notches. After cutting the pieces, cut extra fronts by
the front pattern for the inside of the coat.
Mark the center-front perforations on the cloth, and also the
sleeve-perforations.
The front of the coat will require an interlining,
one yard of French canvas or tailor’s canvas, 27 inches wide. Use the front and side-front pattern pieces
to cut it, making the front full length, and just like the pattern, but cutting
the side-front off at the waistline notch at front edge and then sloping it up
two inches below the armhole at underarm edge.
Figure 1 will give you a very good idea of the shaping. The canvas must be shrunk before cutting.
Arrange the canvas fronts under the cloth fronts
and baste to position. Then baste the
seams, beginning with the side-front and side-back, and then shoulder and
underarm. Three-eighths inch is allowed
for seaming. Try the coat on, lapping
right front over left so the center-front perforations will be together, and
see that the waistline notches are in place.
If the seams need to be taken in, make the alterations carefully so as
to preserve the straight lines of the coat.
The hips should be snug, without being tight, but the waist must be free
and scarcely fitted to the figure at all.
If long in the waist, take up at the shoulder, and clip the under part
of the armhole. The armhole must be
straight at the back, not rounded out between shoulders, and should be kept as
small as can be comfortably worn.
Keep the shoulder-seam well toward the back to
avoid a round-shoulder effect. Padding
may be necessary to fill a hollow at the front of the armhole or under the
arm. Cotton flannel, laid in layers, as
many as necessary, will be found useful for this purpose. Let the layers graduate in size, so two edges
will come together. However, the padding
will not be done until the seams are stitched; but it must be considered at the
time of fitting.
After fitting, remove the canvas and baste the
alterations – then try on again. If
satisfactory, stitch the seams. Do not
stitch the canvas pieces together in the ordinary way, but lap the side-front
edges one over the other, and then stitch.
Clip the seams, especially at waistline, to make them lie flat, and then
press them open on the wrong side.
Rebaste the canvas in place, and catstitch the shoulder and underarm edges
over the seams of the coat. To reinforce
the neck and armhole in back so as to stand the strain of the collar and
sleeve, cut canvas pieces two inches wide, shaped to fit these edges, and baste
them to position. Narrow tape, thoroughly
shrunk, should be sewed ¾ of an inch from the front edges of coat, to prevent
stretching. If the edge is already
stretched a little, draw the tape a trifle tight and ease the coat to it,
shrinking out the fullness with a damp cloth and hot iron.
Figure 1 shows the tape in place, and also a bust
form. This form is made of canvas, cut
about ten inches long and seven across, in oval shape. Slash from the lower edge to the center, and then
lap the slashed edges as much as required to fit the form to the coat; if
necessary, slash again at the side.
Baste the form inside the coat against the canvas interlining and attach
it with padding-stitch, a long stitch on the side toward you, and a short
back-stich taken through the canvas. The
padding-stitch is done in rows from top to bottom, over the entire surface of the
form, but on no account attaches any part of the canvas to the cloth.
The short neckband supports the collar at the
back. It should have a canvas interlining. Baste the cloth neckband over the interlining,
and then cut 3/8 of an inch off the interlining all around. Run close rows of machine-stitching the
length of the neckband to hold the two pieces together securely. The collar itself must be kept soft and
pliable, so use cambric to interline it.
Cut the cambric by the pattern, and shrinking the cambric first.
We have three fabrics for the collar, cloth for
the under side, satin for the upper, and cambric to interline. Close the shoulder-seams of all of these
separately, basting them first and trying on.
Make any alterations necessary, and stitch, clip the seams, and press
open. Baste the cambric over the cloth
and cut 3/8 of an inch off the cambric all around; then attach cambric to cloth
with the padding-stitch. Tape the collar
along the outside, and turn the cloth edge up over the tape. Now arrange the satin in place, and turn the
outer edge under so that a little of the cloth edge will show for a finish;
baste this edge in place and then slip-stitch or blind-stitch it. See Figure 2 for the collar.
Join the collar to the neckband, the single
notches matching, and line the neckband with whatever material you have
selected to line the coat. Baste collar
and neckband to the coat, the double notches in front together, try on, and
then stitch. A two-inch strip of cambric,
shaped to fit the lower edge of the coat, should be basted 3/8 of an inch above
the edge, and the cloth turned up over it and fastened. At the front edge below the collar, cut away
the canvas 3/8 of an inch, and catstitch the cloth edge over the tape and
canvas.
The facing pieces will finish the fronts. Arrange them in place inside, turn the front
edges under and baste over collar-seam and front edges of coat. Below the collar the front edges may be
stitched from the outside, and along the collar, blind-stitches. Baste the back edge of the facing to the
canvas interlining.
Baste the sleeve-portions together as notched,
terminating the outside seam at the extensions.
Turn under the extension on the upper part of the sleeve, then gather
the upper edge between the double perforations, and try the sleeve on. Alter, if necessary and stitch and press open
the seams. With the sleeve right side
out, slip a canvas two or three inches wide, inside the writs, and baste
it. Cut off the canvas at least 3/8 of
an inch short of the cloth, so the cloth edges can be turned over it without
turning the canvas. Catstitch the lower
edge, and also the extension edges to the canvas.
Baste the sleeve in the armhole, with notches
matching, and the single perforations at the shoulder-seam. Try on and move the sleeve forward or
backward if required; the front seam should follow the inside of the arm in a
straight line to the thumb. After
stitching the armhole-seams, press the upper part back toward the neck. Now take a piece of bias wool interlining,
cut ten inches long and three inches wide, fold it lengthwise through the
middle, stretch the folded edge and sew it to the top of the armhole; trim the
ends off to almost nothing. This will
hold out the sleeve-top, and give it the professional look.
To cut the lining, use side-front, side-back, back
and sleeve pieces. The front is not
needed on account of the facings, but allow an extra-wide seam on the
side-front. Before cutting the lining
back, lay an inch plait in the material.
The lining throughout should be very free both in width and length. Baste the back piece in the coat first, then the
side-back, and lastly the side-front, turning the forward seam edges over those
behind. Baste the lining all around, and
then slip-stitch it. Stitch the
sleeve-seams, and arrange the sleeve-lining in the sleeve. Tack along the seams, then finish lower edge
and extensions neatly. Turn the upper
edge of sleeve-lining under, gather between the notches, and hem the top over
the armhole-seam. The extensions may be fastened,
one over the other, with buttons and buttonholes, real or simulated; or the
closing can be stitched and tacked.
Ornamental fastenings or buttons may close the coat at the front.
Pattern No. 5442 is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches
bust measure. Price of pattern, 10
cents.
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