Handkerchief Border in Mexican Work

By Mary Jeter
January, 1912, page 20

     Cut a piece of handkerchief-linen nine inches square, draw a few threads and hemstitch a narrow hem, taking five threads to each stitch.
     Measure one and one-fourth inches at each corner and clip the threads to draw for the work, following the explicit directions that have many times been given.  Be sure that all spaces to be worked are of the same width.
     Hemstitch the inner edge of space, and tie the strands of threads in groups of eight each, taking care that this knotting-thread is exactly in the center of space.  Fill in by crossing five times, skipping each alternate group of eight, and crossing this group in the center.  Tie the threads in the same way on both sides of the space, that is, above and below the center.
     To make the medallions, tie the group and threads crossing the same securely in the center.  Begin the circle close to the center; tie the group of threads in two divisions, the filling-threads four in a bunch, except three in the middle, including the center knotting-thread.
     Next tie the group of threads in three divisions, the filling-threads of four in twos, the group of three separately.  Then tie group of threads in four bunches, the filling-threads separately, tie again same as the last, and then tie each bunch separately, coming back to part on side of the beginning of circle.
     To make the fancy edge, turn and go backward from the way the circle was tied, catching the needle under last thread of circle from the outer side, letting the needle come up back of the working-thread; do the same under the fourth circle thread, alternating outer and inner thread, and making a row of cross-stitches, similar in appearance to brier-stitch.
     For the points on outer edge, let the thread fall to the left of the needle, put the needle under filling-thread up through the loop, and draw up until it is smooth.  Put the needle under the outer circle thread into a loop formed as before, and repeat again once on outer and then on inner thread.  Proceed to the next junction of filling- and circle-threads, and continue as described, taking care that the stitch on the circle is the last, so that a point will be formed.
     Make medallions to fill the corners similar to those on the sides, save that they will be circular in form.
     To make the double rows, measure one and one-fourth inches on each side of open corner piece, skip the bunches of threads when groups are made of them.  Double the dividing threads, put across the corners at line of center, to give strength.
     After working the first space, which alone makes a very lovely border, cut the threads for the second, draw, and proceed as for the first space.
     For the half medallions fasten the filling-thread as it is put in at center, and carry down the group to the same position on the group tied.  Work in the same way as directed for the whole medallion, except to turn halfway and tie back.
     Last of all, edge with fine lace and insertion or lace alone, holding rather full at the corners so that the turn will be smoothly made.  One and three-eighths yards will be found sufficient for a nine-inch square.  If preferred, one may make a wider hem, using an eleven-inch square, and omit the lace border.

The Ever-Needed Garments

January,  1912, page 19

Ladies’ Sacque-Apron

     When performing household duties, an apron that completely protects the dress is a desirable garment.  No. 2882 is a splendid idea.   It fits up high around the neck, and extends to the bottom of the dress.  The long sleeves are a special feature.
     This apron is cut on sacque lines, perfectly plain across the shoulders and front, but hangs with a little fullness from below the bust.
     The garment closes all the way down the back.  It may be worn as a wrapper or kimono, with no underdress, if desire.
     Beside being a practical apron, there is an element of good taste about it.  There are a chic rolling collar, two nice large patch-pockets, and comfortable bishop sleeves, finished with a neat band cuff.
     Gingham is the best material from which to fashion it, although calico, percale, or seersucker may be used. 
     The pattern, No. 2882, is cut in sizes for 32, 36, 40 and 44 inch bust measure.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 5 1/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





For the Stout Woman

     The clever combination, No. 2144 and No. 3972, will especially appeal to the stout or full-busted woman, as the brassiere is the most comfortable article ever devised for ladies given to embonpoint.
     The bust-supporter pictured crosses at the back, so that it may be drawn without a wrinkle down over the figure.  The center-front seam and darts may be boned to give additional comfort and support.  The garment is trimmed with lace at neck and armholes.
     The drawers are simply made, being a one-piece, closed model.  They are full enough to give the effect of a petticoat.  Wide embroidery flouncing is used to trim the bottom, the beading being ribbon-run, ending in a bow at each side.
     The brassiere, No. 2144, is cut in sizes from 32 to 48 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require ¾ of a yard of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The drawers, No. 3972, are cut in sizes from 22 to 38 inches waist measure.  To make the drawers in the medium size will require 2 ¼ yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.






One-Piece Corset-Cover

     An attractive one-piece corset-cover, No. 4091, may be made in a short time from flouncing, plain batiste, or cambric.  There is no seam at the back, the fastening being through a center box plait.
     Ribbon is run through the beading at the top and belt.  Narrow lace is used to edge the armholes.
     If flouncing is used, no trimming is needed.  If made of plain material, the top may be edged with lace.
     The pattern, No. 4091, is cut in sizes from 32 to 48 inches bust measure.  To make the corset-cover in the medium size will require 1 ¾ yards of 17-inch flouncing.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.








Ladies’ Combination

     This combination, No. 4531, is sure to be well liked.  It consists of corset-cover and petticoat, and is a splendid idea for such a garment.
     The model is developed of embroidered flouncing, ribbon-run at neck and belt.  The armholes are filled with Val, lace.
      The pattern, No. 4531, is cut in sizes from 332 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the combination in the medium size will require 1 ¾ yards of 15-inch flouncing for corset-cover, 2 ¼ yards of 24-inch flouncing for petticoat, and 7/8 of a yard of 36-inch material for yoke.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.











Kimono-Nightgown

     Women have taken readily to the dainty kimono nightgown, because this style is generally becoming, and then, too, it is easy to make.
     The illustration, No. 4430, shows a fascinating model.  It is cut with rounded neck, and loose, bell-shaped, kimono-sleeves.
     The woman who embroiders can work a pretty design on the front of the garment, and the neck and sleeves can be similarly treated.  Indeed this design offers a good model for those who love hand-embroidered lingerie.
     A group of tiny tucks at the shoulders gives the desired fullness to the front.  The garment is slipped on over the head and gathered to fit smoothly by ribbon run through the eyelet-work.  The sleeves are also ribbon-run.
     Cambric, lawn, longcloth, or nainsook may be used
     The pattern, No. 4430, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the nightgown in the medium size will require 4 ¼ yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

 

Exceptionally Good Styles for the Home Dressmaker

January, 1912, page 18

Ladies’ Dressing-Sacque

    A neat dressing-sacque, model No. 3519, is made of flannelette, figured lawn, madras, or percale.
    A few gathers on each side of the front closing regulate the fullness.
    The pretty rolling collar is inset with a row of insertion and edged with narrow lace.  The three-quarter-length sleeves are finished with a colonial cuff also inset with insertion and lace-trimmed to match the collar.
    The pattern, No. 3519, is cut in sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust measure.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 3 ¾ yards of 27-inch, 2 5/8 yards of 36-inch, and 2 1/8 yards of 44-inch material.  For trimming, 2 ¾ yards of insertion, 3 ¼ yards of edging and 1 yard of ribbon will be needed.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Ladies’ Sewing-Apron (no back view)
    The dainty apron, given in design No. 560, may be made with or without the bib.  This is a fancy sewing-apron novelty, made with a large pocket for holding scissors, thimble, etc.  If the design is to be used for a tea-apron, the pocket may be omitted, and the trimming put on in any preferred way.
    The pattern, No. 5670, is cut in one size.  To make the apron in lawn, cambric, or swiss will require 1 5/8 yards of 27-inch, or 1 yard of 36-inch material  four yards of beading, 6 of narrow ribbon, and 4 of edging will be needed, also 2 yards of ribbon for ties.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.



Girls’ Semiprincesse Dress

    For a best dress this semiprincesse model, illustration No. 4655, offers a good suggestion.  It is suitable for development in cashmere, challis, serge, or silk.
    The princesse panel extends from the shoulders to the hem in front.  The back has Gibson plaits running to the waistline.
    The bishop sleeves are finished with a band cuff, which is of contrasting material.
    The pattern, No. 4655. Is cut in sizes for from 6 to 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 2 7/8 yards of 36-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.











Shirtwaist Costume

    The shirtwaist costume presented in illustration No. 4071 and No. 4950, consists of a plain negligee shirtwaist and a plaited skirt.  For home or business, a garment of this class has a style of its own, and presents a chic, tasty appearance.

    The waist-pattern, No. 4071, is cut in sizes from 32 to 48 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 3 yards of 27-inch, 2 ¼ yards of 36-inch, or 1 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
    The skirt-pattern, No 4950. Is cut in sizes from 22 to 32 inches waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 7 ¾ yards of 27-inch, 5 ¼ yards of 36-inch, or 4 yards of 44-inch goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Girls’ Sailor Dress

    The popular sailor dress continues a favorite for the little girl.  A pretty model for a garment of this style is offered in design No, 4605.
    The regulation sailor blouse has yoke and collar trimmed with three rows of braid.  The cuffs which match yoke are similarly trimmed.
    Serge is a good suggestion for a sailor dress, but any of the numerous wash-materials may be employed.
    The pattern, No, 4605, is cut in sizes for girls of 6, 8, 10 and 12 years of age.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 6 yards of 24-inch, 4 yards of 36-inch, or 3 ¼ yards of 44 inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Ladies’ Overblouse

    The uses and advantages of the overblouse are many and varied.  It provides a dressy addition to the otherwise plain toilettes, and, worn over an ordinary waist, it gives the effect of another costume.
    The model pictured, No. 5680, closes at the left side, and is trimmed on the left shoulder with three large buttons.  The blouse has a belt and the new peplum now so fashionable.
    The pattern, No. 5680, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the overblouse in the medium size will require 1 ½ yards of 24-, 1 ¼ yards of 36-, or 7/8  of a yard of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.










Child’s One-Piece Apron

    To protect the child’s dress while playing or dining, an all-enveloping apron is necessary.  A nice design for a one-piece apron is shown in No. 4615.
    This little garment is so simply made that the most inexperienced needleworker can fashion it.  It covers the entire front of the dress, and is joined together at the back by a narrow strap fastened with a single button. The apron is trimmed around the yoke, armholes and bottom with a band of contrasting material.
    The pattern, No. 4615, is cut in sizes from 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 years of age.  To make the apron in the medium size will require 1 ½ yards of 27-inch material, or 1 yard of 36-inch goods.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Ladies’ Waist  (no back view)
    A very simple, yet effective design, No. 5669, is here shown.  The body and upper part of sleeves are cut in one.  An underarm gore is used, which makes the garment much easier to fit; the sleeves are gathered in a cuff, and terminate at the elbow.
    Satin, with collar and cuffs of velvet, and chemisette of allover lace, are the materials illustrated, but any desired materials may be used.
    The pattern, No. 5669, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the 36-inch size, will require 4 ¼ yards of 27-inch material; with 7/8 of a yard of 24-inch velvet, 5/8 of a yard of 18-inch allover, and 4 ½ yards of braid.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.

A Talk on Juvenile Styles

January, 1912
page 17

    While styles in children’s clothing do not vary so often, or in so great a degree as do fashions for grown-ups, still, even in the making of theses diminutive garments, one notes a slight difference season by season.
     There is, of course, no season in children’s clothing, that is in the accepted meaning of the word “season.”
     With misses and women we have spring raiment that differs in marked diversity from the clothing of the wither, and summer costumes that change greatly from those of the fall, but the small child wears her summer frocks all wither, and her spring dresses in the autumn.  Now that we have taken to making most of our children’s every-day clothing of wash-material, this passing over of the season is observed.
     The use of wash-fabrics in the making of garments for the little ones has become a popular institution.  Not only are wash-garments more practical, as they admit of frequent tubbing, but they are far more simple of construction.  In simplicity lies the chief charm of children’s clothing.   Simply fashioned, neat appearing little frocks of tub-material stand an infinite amount of wear and tear, and now that the styles of making these garments present such a splendid variety, and all of them, from the very plainest, have some individual charm.  Mothers of small children need not spend much time or money in fashioning the little ones’ clothing.
     For the small tot, good taste and suitability play an important part.  A very young child must never be overdressed.  A neat little frock that may serve as a model for an infant of six months and a girl of five years equally as well, with each in-between year provided for, is made in the French fashion that is universally becoming.  On the very little girl the garment hangs from the shoulders, while on the older child the dress may be gathered in Empire style.  The fronts and backs of garment are gathered to yokes which may be made in high- or low-neck style.  The sleeves may be long or short.  Such a dress is simple enough for general wear, yet tasty enough for special occasions.  For the latter it is nice to use flouncing, which is always in good style for the making of frocks that make some pretense at being dressy without losing one iota of their characteristic simplicity.  For the development of a plain garment, swiss, batiste, lawn, chambray, madras, and gingham may be considered.
     On the very small child nothing can take the place of all-white garments.  Indeed, when we consider how inexpensively dainty effects in white garments may be achieved, we would not hesitate to discard colored dresses altogether for a while.  Lawn, dimity, batiste, and similar materials cost very little, and are sweet and dainty with touches of Valenciennes lace or embroidery.  For the woman who wishes a little color, pretty pink and blue baby ribbon could be threaded through the neck and sleeves of a special-occasion frock or a slip of lawn or thin silk in similar colors could be made to be worn under the white dress.  Hand-embroidery is used to a great extent for the trimming of baby dresses.  The woman skillful with the needle can do wonders on these tiny garments.  However, very little trimming is required on baby clothing, and the dainty white slip with a frill of Valenciennes lace or embroidery at the neck and wrists is far nicer than a fussy garment with tucks and ruffles, and ribbon rosettes.
     For the small child, the rompers are the most comfortable and practical garment ever devised.  A new version of this popular garment is cut with body and sleeves in one, which greatly simplifies the making.   The neck is cut round and buttons closely.  The sleeves are long, and fasten close around the wrist with a neat band-cuff which insures warmth for the little wearer in cold weather.  The leg portions are gathered in at the knee in the usual style.  Flannelette is the best material for winter rompers, as this fabric has softness and warmth, and is so easily laundered,  Seersucker is another good suggestion, and a point in its favor is that it does not require pressing.
     A little dress that will find favor among discriminating mothers has the fronts and backs tucked to simulate box plaits, the stitching terminating at about the waist-line.  This dainty garment has a pretty sailor-collar, and long sleeves and for wear, for play, or school purposes fulfills all requirements of a practical frock.
     The French dress continues a premier among costumes for the small girl.  One sees them in every wanted material.  For home and school wear they are fashioned of gingham, chambray, and similar wash-goods.  Serge and cheviot, and soft woolen materials are utilized to a great extent in the fashioning of “best” dresses for the girl over six years.  The vogue for stiff silks, Henriettas and satins, for making children’s frocks, is past.  Nothing that savors of age, or suggests mature ideas is used.  When woolen goods or silk are used, they must be of the very softest, most pliant quality.
     Sharing favor with the French dress is the Gibson model, the popularity of which never diminishes.  Another ever stylish and becoming garment is the sailor dress.  The middy blouse that slips on over the head has as many admirers as the other style that closes in front, both being equally attractive.  Plaited skirts are good form for a sailor dress, but the gathered style is just as girlish and appropriate.
     The middy-blouse dress is being made of any number of wash-materials, linen, rep, and poplin leading in favor.  For winter, serge is a favorite material, blue with white trimming, or black with read trimming, being especially desirable.
     The Empire style so much in vogue at present finds a following even in little girls’ dresses, and many models displaying clever adaptations of this fashionable style are noted in juvenile garments.  One-piece dresses sometimes have sashes arranged high in Empire-effect, which give a particularly picturesque air to the little miss.
     Frocks that are worn with guimpe are an excellent type for the growing girl.  A smart design shows a tucked overblouse constructed along surplice lines, and important feature being the cutting of the overblouse and sleeve-caps in one.  The guimpe is made with a standing collar, but the French neck can be used, if that style is preferred.  The attached skirt, which is plaited at the top, is straight, and is therefore excellent for plain or bordered material.
     A plain dress for general wear is made of blue diagonal serge, flecked with white.  The garment is in one piece, with the front of the waist in panel style, and the attached straight skirt, box plaited.  A round, flat collar finishes the neck, and the long sleeves have band-cuffs.  This design is also suitable for all of the commonly used wash-materials, and cashmere or challis can be utilized equally as well.  Braid trimming can be applied to make an effective embellishment.
     A winter dress that has distinguishing characteristics is developed of Scotch plaid worsted, and is such a garment as can be worn for dressy and every-day occasions with the same style and good taste exemplified.   The type is becoming to girls from six to fourteen years, the dress having a full blouse waist and a graceful kilted skirt.  The belt and cuffs are made of broadcloth in a contrasting color, which gives a most effective tough, and are trimmed with rows of black silk braid.  Fancy brass buttons impart a clever finishing touch.  The dress buttons invisibly down the back.  This tasty little garment, which is pretty in plaid showing blue-and-red or brown-and-red predominating stripes, can be made at home very inexpensively.
     For the young miss to whom a party-dress is an event, some consideration of these especially designed garments will not be inappropriate.  As in the fashioning of clothing for children, so in the making of dresses for the young girl, care must be taken to preserve simplicity.  The dresses must be designed to emphasize the youth and charm of the wearer, and not in any manner to detract from that idea.
     There are so many beautiful fabrics suitable f or evening dresses that the making of the young girls’ party-frock is a special pleasure to the home dressmaker.
     A simple little frock that can be developed very reasonably is made of soft silk mull in baby-blue.  The model is cut with a square Gretchen neck front and back, the latest style for dancing- and party-gowns, and elbow-length kimono-sleeves.  Fine tucks ornament the full blouse-waist and sleeves, and an attractive effect is given by a chic little vestee of white allover lace.  The cuffs are also formed of the lace.  The skirt is a plaited style, with a single broad tuck taken up above a deep lace insert.  A fancy crushed messaline girdle finished with a rosette and long ends is a handsome embellishment.
     Another dress suitable for evening or afternoon wear is fashioned of messaline satin.  This costume shows the new citoyenne blouse with a deep plaited frill and fancy girdle at the slightly raised Empire waistline.
     The waist is cut in the popular kimono style, with a “Peter Pan” collar and turnback, scalloped cuffs edged with fancy braid.  Pretty trimming is afforded by a fancy chiffon bow tie and chiffon undercuffs in a strikingly contrasting shade.  The six-gored skirt has a fancy cut panel down back and front.  This gown is elegant in old-rose, electric-blue or salmon-pink.
     Net is used very much at present for girls’ as well as ladies’ evening robes.  A splendid model noted at a reception recently was of embroidered Brussels net over a pink China-silk foundation.  The peasant-style waist of embroidered net was cut in bolero effect.  The round, low-cut neck and elbow sleeves were trimmed with Val.-lace insertion and edging.  The undersleeves were finished with tucked cuffs, Val.-lace, embellished and further enhanced with a band of narrow coral-pink velvet ribbon.  A sash of coral-pink velvet encircled the waist and ended at the back in a flat tailored bow and streamers.  A row of German Val,-lace insertion joined the lower part of the waist to the silk foundation.
     The upper part of the skirt was fashioned of net tucking, and the deep flounce-effect was of the richly embroidered Brussels net.  The silk underskirt was finished with a gathered ruffle edged with lace.
     Worn over this gown was a “Mandarin” coat of coral broadcloth, and the effect was strikingly picturesque and charming.  The coat was cut on appropriately loose, graceful lines, so that it could not crush the dainty frock.
     Novel features of this coat were the new deep “hood” collar and smart flaring front revers.  The loose, three-quarter length “Mandarin” sleeves had deep, cleverly rolled cuffs.
     The collar, cuffs and revers were made of a rich black messaline satin which afforded quite a fetching contrast, and enhance the beauty of the garment.  The hood-effect in back was finished with a heavy fancy silk tassel, and the closing was made with two large satin-covered buttons.  The coat was lined with white satin.
     A garment of this nature is not difficult to make and no more admirable style for an evening coat for a young girl could be conceived.

 

 

Pretty and Practical Things of Wool

By Mrs. H. E. Warner
January, 1912, pages 16-17

Automobile-Cap in Star-Stitch

     Materials used in the model are one skein German knitting-yarn, cream-white, one and one-half yards of two-inch ribbon, and a bone hook of medium size.  Work loosely.  Chain 4, join.
1.     Twelve doubles in ring, join.
2.       Make 8 star-stitches in the round.
3.       Make 16 star-stitches, widening in every stitch of preceding round.
4, 5.  Same as 3d row, widening in every stitch.  This completes the flat crown of the cap
Make 7 rounds of star-stitch without widening, or until the cap is of the desired size.
13.   Turn (to form the turnover or roll, which must show the right side of work when turned up around the crown) and work star-stitch, without increasing, all around.
14.   Make a treble in eye of 1^st star, chain 2, a treble in eye of next star, then a star-stitch, drawing a loop through top of treble, 2 loops through the center, 1 in bottom of treble, 1 under horizontal loop of next star in last row, and 1 through eye of same star.  Work off as usual, and repeat. When putting in the ribbon, run it over the single treble and under the treble and star-stitch combined.
15, 16.   Star-stitch, without widening there should be the same number of stars as in 13^th round, 3 over each treble and combined treble and star-stitch.
     Line the cap by cutting a strip of fine cotton or silk long enough to extend smoothly around the lower edge of the cap (at 12^th round), and widen enough to reach the top of cap.  Join the ends in a neat seam, sew to the lower edge of cap, a little inside the 12^th round, or the round just before the turnover commences, fold in the upper edge, gather and draw up tightly, and turn inside of cap.
     Any color of wool may be used – brown, dark green, navy-blue, chinchilla, maroon, crimson, gray, or other that may be preferred, the ribbon matching or harmonizing with it.  Germantown zephyr may take the place of the knitting-yarn, and is very soft and pretty.
     The six-loop star-stitch is used in making this cap: chain 3, miss 1^st stitch of chain, draw a loop through each of next 2 stitches and 3 stitches of foundation, making 1^st 2 loops a trifle shorter than the others; take up the wool and draw through all 6 stitches at once, then take up and draw through the stitch on hook tightly, to close the star.  For the 2d and following stars, draw a loop through eye of star last made (the tiny hole formed by the 2 chain or closing stitch), next through back part of last loop of previous star (these being the shorter loops), next in same stitch with last loop of 1^st star, and 1 loop in each of 2 following stitches; work off as before and repeat.
     For 2d and following rows, chain 3, draw up 2 loops as before, next loop in back of 1^st or top loop in star below, next through eye of same star and next under loop of next star, beyond the eye; work off as before.  Next star, take up 2d and 3d loops as directed for stars in last row, the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th loops as directed for star last made; work off.
     To widen, making 2 stars over 1 of previous row, one can omit the last 2 or advance loops, having the star to consist of 4 loops only, or may draw the remaining 2 loops up at the back of the work, if it is desired to have the 6 loops in each star.  For a less rapid widening, advance only 1 stitch, making the star of 5 loops.
     Take care to do the work loosely, pulling the loops out well, for on this depend in great measure the softness and fluffiness of the finished work – constituting the charm of worsted articles.

Aviation- or Automobile-Cap

     Materials required are Shetland floss, of any desired color, and bone hook of suitable size, with steel knitting-needles No. 12 or No. 14 for knitting the band of ruche-stitch.
Chain 4, join.
1.   Chain 3, 12 trebles in ring, join.
2.  Make 2 doubles in each stitch of previous round.  
     Continue to work in double crochet, taking up both veins of the stitch to avoid a rib, and working very loosely, widening also by putting 2 stitches in the same place as required to keep the work perfectly flat, until the top of the cap is of required size, say 11 or 12 inches across; 14 rows, worked loosely as they should be, will be about right.  Then work plain, or without widening, until the desired depth is attained – 12 or 14 more rows, and fasten off.
     The border or roll is of ruche-stitch, knitted as follows:
1.     Insert the needle in 1^st stitch as though to knit it, wind the wool around needle and finger 4 times, and pull all 4 loops through the stitch; repeat across the row, and repeat the 2 rows until you have a strip long enough to extend easily around the cap, join the ends, sew in place and line the cap neatly, sewing the lining at the lower edge of the ruche and gathering closely at the top.
     The border may be of a different color than the cap, if preferred, choosing any two colors that are becoming to the wearer and contrast or match prettily.  For example, two shades of one color may be sued, as light and dark blue or brown; or the cap may be of gray with a  crimson or maroon border, or the latter may be of blue, all depending upon the taste or complexion of the one who is to wear this stylish and useful bit of head-gear.  
     A heavier wool may be chosen; and larger needles used for knitting, with loops wound around two fingers if desired deeper.  There are many ways of varying such articles, and the experienced worker is rarely at a loss to know what will give the prettiest effect.  As has been suggested, however, the work must be done loosely.  If the wool is wound it should be done very easily, not stretching it in the least.  It is a good plan to first wind from little finger to thumb of left hand, crossing the pals as the wool is carried around thumb, then finger; after as many winds as can be held comfortably, slip off and wind the wool loosely around the soft “wad” thus formed.  By exercising care the work may be done without winding, the wool being drawn from the skein.

Baby’s Hood with Ruche

     Use Saxony yarn, with bone hook of suitable size.  It should carry the thread easily without catching in it.  The model is of blue and white, and one skein of each will be sufficient, with two and one-half yards of ribbon for ties and bows.
Chain 4, join.
1.        Fill the ring with 12 doubles.
2.       Make 7 star-stitches around the circle.
3, 4.  Make 14 star-stitches, widening in every stitch of last round.
5, 6, 7, 8.  Work around plain, or without widening, in star-stitch.  Should this not make the hood sufficiently long in the back, add another row.
9.  Work around to within 5 or 6 stars of beginning of round, leaving these for back of neck; break and fasten the wool, and join in again at beginning of row.
10.  Chain 3, take up 1^st 2 loops from the chain as previously directed, then continue with star-stitch across front.  Care must be taken to have the same number of stars in each row, and to keep the edge straight.  In order to do this, draw the last loop of last star of the row through last stitch of end star in preceding row.
     Continue to work across front as directed until a sufficient width is attained, say for 6 rows.  As will be noted, the hood may be readily enlarged to fit the head of any child; it is only necessary to add extra rows of stars to the crown, and make the front piece proportionally wider.
     For the border, cast on 9 stitches, using steel needles or proper size for the yarn, knit across plain; turn, insert needle as if to knit a stitch, wind yarn 4 times around needle and one finger, draw the loops through, and repeat.  Continue across in the same way, knit back plain and repeat to the desired length, making a strip long enough to extend across front of hood.  Make another strip for the back, to meet the front piece at each side, and join neatly, catching to the hood all around.
     Make a lining of silk, flannel or cotton, finishing and sewing in place so that it can be easily removed when it becomes soiled, make a pretty bow of the ribbon for back and top of hood and put on the ties.
     The directions given, using Germantown or other heavier yarn, will result in a much larger hood.  Work loosely – this cannot be too often emphasized, since there should be no suspicion of hardness about an article fashioned of wool; it must be light and soft and fluffy, or lose its greatest charm.

Worsted Boots in Rib-Stitch

     Materials required are two skeins of white Germantown and one skein of blue (or any preferred colors, gray and pink being especially pretty), a crochet-hook of suitable size and a pair of lamb’s-wool soles.
     Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 13 stitches, turn.
1.        A double in each of 6 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each of 6, turn.
2.       Chain 1, a double in each stitch (taking back vein to form a rib), widening in the center by making 2 stitches in the same place.
     Continue like 2d row until you have made 10 ribs or ridges, or according to the size of shoe wanted; the directions given may be used to fit any size of sole.
     Turning at end of last row, chain 1, work to center of instep, then chain 13, turn, miss 1^st stitch and work down the chain and across the side of instep; turn, chain 1, work to top of ankle and back to edge of instep.  Continue in this way until you have made 13 or 14 ribs, then crochet together.
     Around top of ankle make a treble in every stitch, commencing with 3 chain and joining the row.  Draw these stitches up well, to admit the ribbon, which is passed over 2 trebles and under 2 then tied in a pretty bow in front.
2.  A double in next stitch, miss 2, shell of 5 trebles in next, miss 2; repeat round, making 6 shells of white.
3. Fasten in the blue (or darker color), chain 3, fasten in top of 1^st shell, *shell between shells, fasten in next shell; repeat from * around, making 6 trebles in each shell.
4. Like 3d row, using white wool.
     Sew to the sole of the slipper on the wrong side, turn right side, and finish with a bow of ribbon on instep.
     Where the widening consists of 2 stitches, put the widening doubles in the 2d stitch, each row.  Another method of making the vamp, which gives the box-toe effect, is to start with a chain of 11 stitches (or according to size of slipper), turn, miss 1^st stitch, 9 doubles in9 stitches, 1 in each, 3 in next, or last stitch, 9 doubles on other side of chain, in same stitches with those previously made, turn; chain 1, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, 2 in next, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, always picking up back par to stitch to form the rib, and continue for 5 rows; then work back every other row plain, or without widening, to prevent too rapid increase.  When the vamp is completed, chain for the ankle and continue as directed.

Bootees in Seashell-Stitch

     Use two colors of Saxony, blue and white, or pink and white’ the model is of the latter.  Two skeins will make several pairs.  With a hook of suitable to size, chain 24, join.
1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch of chain; 3 chain stands for 1^st treble; join top of 3 chain.
2. A double in next stitch, miss 1, 4 trebles in next, miss 1; repeat around making 6 shells of 4 trebles each, fastened with 1 double between shells; join last shell in 1^st double of the round.
3. Chain 3 and fasten in top of 1^st shell (or slip-stitch to top of shell, as preferred), *make a shell of 5 trebles in the double between shells, fasten in top of following shell; repeat from * around, joining last shell where round started.
4. Same as 3d row.
5. Same as 3d row, using color.
6, 7. Same as 4^th and 5^th rows, save that the 7^th row (of color) has 6 trebles in each shell instead of 5.
     This completes the leg.  Now, commencing on the other side of foundation-chain from where the 1^st row of trebles is worked, make a double 9white) in each stitch.  For the instep, join in color and work 8 doubles, 1 in each stitch; turn, and make 3 more rows of color, or 2 ridges; make 2 rows of white, 2 of color, and one of white, narrowing at end of this row by putting hook through 2 stitches instead of one.  Make 2 more rows in same way, narrowing at beginning and end of last row, which completes the instep.  Break the wool and draw through fastening securely.  Fasten in at the heel, or point on the leg exactly opposite the center of instep, and using white yarn, make double in double (taking both veins of the stitch) to beginning of instep; work down the side, across toe, along the opposite side and back to the heel; join.  Work 3 more rows in the same way, then in next and 3 following rows, narrow once on each side of the foot.  Crochet the bottom of sole together, run ribbon in and out the row of trebles at the ankle, and you have completed a pretty and comfortable little foot-covering for the wee one of your – or another’s – household.

Aero- or Auto-Toque

By Mrs. B. F. Sargent
     These comfortable, serviceable caps or toques are everywhere seen this season, no less – even more – than last.  It is the simplest thing in the world to make one of them, a half day at most sufficing for the work.  One of the plainest. And all the more attractive because of its simplicity, is made as follows:
     Using eiderdown wool and a large bone hook, make a chain of 4 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, 15 trebles in ring, join.
2. Chain 3, 2 trebles in each treble of last row, join.
3. Chain 3, a treble in same place, *treble in next stitch, 2 in next; repeat from * around, join.
4. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch of last row.
     Make 3 more rows without widening for the depth of cap – which, by the way, may be made of any desired size, either as to circumference (by widening to a circle of 55 to 60 stitches, in which case one should commence with a proportionally larger number of trebles in the center ring), or by adding an extra row or more to the depth.  As made, the trebles are about one and one-fourth inches long, and the work, while elastic, is very close and warm.
     Having completed the body of the cap, turn it and work a row of trebles, taking into the back loop of stitch of previous row;  chain 3 at beginning and join to top  of 3 chain.
     Again a row of trebles on the last, but taking as before into both loops of the stitch.
     Around the edge of cap work a row of singles, and fasten off.  Finish with a quill, a pompon of ribbon or velvet, or in any way preferred, or wear the cap plain.
     Twisted puff-stitch is another simple and very attractive stitch for such a cap.  Using the same wool and hook, chain 4, join.
1. Chain 1, put hook at back of wool and under it toward you, so that the wool passes from you over the needle, hook through ring ,draw up a loop, making 3 on needle, take up wool and draw through all at once, chain 1, and repeat until you have 12 puffs in the ring; join last to 1^st.
2. Chain 1, *hook toward you under the wool, as before, draw up a loop through the next space, repeat from *once, making 5 loops on the needle, hook under wool from you, in usual way, draw through all loops at once, chain 1, and repeat, making a puff in 2d and 3d spaces, 2 in 4^th to widen, 1 in 5^th, 6^th and 7^th, 2 in 8^th, 1 in 9^th, 10^th and 11^th, and 2 in 12^th, making 14 puffs in all.
3. Same as 2d row, but making 18 puffs by increasing in 5^th, 10^th and 15^th spaces.
4. Working in same way, increase in 4^th, 8^th, 12^th and 16^th spaces.
5. Always making the puffs as directed, increase in the 10^th and 20^th spaces.
6, 8, 10. Increase in 8^th, 16^th, and 24^th spaces.
7, 9. Increase in 14^th and 28^th spaces
11, 12, 13. Plain – that is, a puff in each space, without increasing.
     This completes the body of the cap.  For the roll or turnover – which may be of another color, if preferred – work 5 rows plain, turning so that the puffs are made on the right side.
     Although usually called aviation- or automobile-toques, these caps are by no means confined to owners or passengers of flying-machines and horseless-carriages, but are worn on the golf-links, skating, coasting, sleighing, and on every occasion when comfort is considered.  Not least of their merits, too, is the fact that they are universally becoming.

 

Up-to-date Styles for Young and Old

(January, 1912, page 15)

 For Church or Calling

The gown for church or afternoon wear is distinct from the general-utility dress, and the evening toilette.  It must not be as plain as the former, or as elaborate as the latter.  A design that presents a pleasing medium is offered in No. 5134.Here is a dress that has class and style combined with simplicity and good taste.

    The waist is a dainty surplice blouse, made collarless, and with short kimono sleeves.  A new feature is the box plait running down the center of the back.  The front opening is cut V-shaped, and is trimmed with silk, which extends the full length of the waist, and on down the skirt about six inches.   A broad band of the silk trims the bottom of the costume.  The chemisette is of lace.
     The skirt is a six-gored model, with a center box plait at back.  The closing is at the left side front.
     The pattern, No. 5134, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 4 7/8 yards of 36-inch, or 4 1/8 yards of 44-inch material.  The guimpe will take 1 ¾ yards of 36-inch material.  For trimming, 1 ¾ yards of silk is needed, with 1 yard of 18-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.





Girls’ Dress

     A pretty school-dress that embodies several novel features, is given in our illustration, No. 4808, which is an excellent suggestion for mothers having little girls to clothe.  The long-waisted model is always a favorite, and this one combines other fanciful touches which make it out of the ordinary.
     The skirt is a clever, kilted model, having center box plait in panel-effect, and inverted box plait at back.
     The long sleeves are in two pieces, having a tuck on the top.  The deep cuffs are a pretty addition.
     For making this garment, woolen mixture, or cheviot is available.  Plain cashmere would be pretty.  A ribbon sash extends from the side of front around the back of the dress, and ends in a large bow.  The pattern, No. 4808, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the dress in the medium size will require 2 ¾ yards of 36-inch material, 2 ½ yards of 44-inch, and 2 yards of goods 50 inches wide.  Two yards of ribbon will be needed for the sash.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.




Ladies’ Costume

     A dressy costume, illustration No. 5669 and No. 4554, has a modified sailor-waist, and a four-gored circular skirt with an under box plait at each seam.
    The waist is plain, the fullness being provided by the gathers at the waistline.  The three-quarter-length sleeves have pointed turnback cuffs.
    The skirt hangs in graceful lines, and closes at the center of the back.  It is a stylish model, the under box plait giving it class and distinction.
     The waist-pattern, No. 5669, is cut in sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  To make the waist in the medium size will require 3 yards of 36-inch goods, or 2 ½ yards of 44-inch material, with 7/8 of a yard of 24-inch satin, and 5/8 of a yard of allover lace.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.
     The skirt-pattern, No. 4554, is cut in sizes from 22 to 32 waist measure.  To make the skirt in the medium size will require 7 yards of 36-inch material, or 6 ¼ yards of goods 44-inches wide.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.






Children’s Dress

     Here is a simple little frock, design No. 4614, that is suitable for the child from one to five years.  This little dress may be made with high or low neck, and long or short sleeves.
     The garment hangs plain from the shoulders, with not too much fullness.  The closing is under a center plait at the back.  The full bishop sleeves are gathered at the wrist where they are completed with a band cuff.
     Cashmere, or silk, galatea, lawn, or linen may be sued.
     The pattern, No, 4614, is cut in sizes for 1, 3 and 5 years of age.  To make the dress in the three-year size will require 3 yards of 24-inch, 2 yards of 36-inch, and 1 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Child’s Yoke Dress

     For the very small child a dainty little dress is given in illustration No. 5390.The body of the frock is gathered on to a pretty yoke, cut in fancy design, and trimmed with two rows of insertion.
     Lawn, cambric, swiss and organdy are suitable materials for the development of this model.
     The pattern, No. 5390, is cut in sizes for 1, 3 and 5 years.  To make the dress in the three-year size will require 2 ¾ yards of 27-inch, 2 yards of 36-inch, and 1 ¾ yards of 44-inch material.  One and seven-eighths yards of insertion, and 1 3/8 yards of edging are needed to trim as pictured.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.









Clever Little Frock

     The clever little frock given in model No 5379, can be used as a school-dress, or best dress, according to the way it is developed.
     The waist has a front-closing effect formed by an outline of silk edging, and trimmed with three small buttons.
     The plain gathered skirt is joined to the waist by a narrow belt.  It hangs in plaited effect.
     This dress is serviceable and stylish developed in plaid material, with lace yoke and collar, and silk trimming to match predominating color of the plaid.  Woolen or cotton fabric can be utilized to equal advantage.
     The pattern, No. 5379, is cut in sizes for 6, 8, 10 and 12 years.  To make the garment in the medium size will require 2 7/8 yards of 36-inch material, or 2 3/8 yards of 44-inch material, with ½ yard of 20-inch silk, and ¼ yard of 18-inch allover.  Price of pattern, 10 cents.